Rockfax Description
Climb the flake and continue up the wider crack above. It is about as strenuous as you might expect from its name. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Wide Cracks, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Hidden 15/Oct TR
HenryMeier 12/Oct Lead O/S

Good fun, and definitely Herculean!

mrphilipoldham 12/Oct 2nd O/S

Very traditional. Lovely.

robblowen 26/Aug Solo rpt

92 of 100

teamvix 15/Aug Lead dog

I fell off! Twice! My first proper trad lead fall (the other one was too close to the ground to count). Glad I'd borrowed a mega big cam to fall onto!! Eventually, and with much grunting, heaved myself up to the chock by physically lifting a foot into place. The problem is, you get stuck in the chimney position! I loved every second of this route,even the fear of imminent death!

with Peak Climbers
Ben Bransby 07/Jul Solo
adi bryant 21/May Solo rpt
cathymiller 22/Apr Lead O/S

Rockfax Eastern Grit gives it as S 4a, I would say HS 4b is much more like it.

with Olly
keitht 22/Apr Solo
OllyDewhirst 22/Apr 2nd
with Cathy
Oscar Popels 09/Apr Lead O/S
with Sam
Lindsaywellsy12345 01/Apr Lead dnf

Complete carnage (listed as a severe in our guidebook otherwise wouldn't have attempted yet) - still undergraded at HS in my opinion. I led up to the ledge and had to back off. Scott came up to try to finish the lead for me - a struggle - got to the top with some cheating. Matt seconded - ended up diverting on to Shelf Life (E3 5c) to complete. Rachael patiently belayed throughout fiasco! With some cheating and diverting everybody eventually got off the climb and we got all the gear back. Horrible route!

jkcn2000 ??/2017 -
with hannah shaw, joe
slab_happy 17/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Droyd
Hidden 29/Sep/16 Lead O/S
lukevf 29/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Ben G
Rob McGurk 19/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Lovely graunchy tussle!

with Alice
AliceJS 19/Sep/16 2nd
with Rob
alexjf 14/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Got stuck in the wider crack

with Roshan
Rob Gillespie 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Joe.Elliott1 03/Aug/16 Lead

This route is hilarious, only wish is that it was 2/3 times longer.

with Tom E
Tom66 03/Aug/16 2nd

loads of laughs, good route to end the day on as the rain came in

Markheighton 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
JGriffiths 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Scott (AMC), Dan E
danieleaston 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Scott, Jake
Hidden 21/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/16 2nd
AlexxelA 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
matt.stevenson 18/Jun/16 AltLd

Amy led to the ledge then I finished from there. A struggle.

Amy Sears 18/Jun/16 AltLd

Really fun but really tough!

Oliver-Lambourn08 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with CJC
Hidden 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/16 2nd dog
Marq 22/May/16 Lead O/S
mitch 14/May/16 -
with Vicky Hoolohan
Flavio 08/May/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/16 -
Hidden 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Oliver-Lambourn08 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with CJC
DHHZ 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
adam carless 03/Apr/16 2nd
with dpmuk
dpmUK 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Wondered too far left at one point

royle883 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
neillmackay 25/Mar/16 2nd
atom 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Becks87 13/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Robin Nichols 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Roger
Roget 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with robin
Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Griff1990 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Ian Hylands 20/Sep/15 2nd β


sas 03/Sep/15 Solo O/S
gladys 16/Aug/15 Lead

W Paul Horsman

paulh.0776 16/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd dog
harry.morrish 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with jez.morrish, Ben Morrish
Kevin Cass 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with S Westwood
Hidden 18/Jun/15 Lead dnf
josefft 30/May/15 2nd O/S

First ever outdoor climb!

JimJam the FistJam 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Joseff, Rebekka Brandt, Jack Buckle
caradoc 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with emma v.
mark44 23/May/15 Lead O/S

v arwkward

Lawray 16/May/15 2nd
with Tucker
knighty 16/May/15 Lead O/S

It is indeed strenuous!!!

with SamT1
SamT1 16/May/15 2nd β
Hidden 13/May/15 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 20/Mar/15 Solo O/S
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
matt1024 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 01/Nov/14 2nd

I attempted to lead but ran out of strength.

with Helen Odwell
Slarti B 18/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Jeremy
hthom 18/Oct/14 Lead G/U
with Mark Warrnet
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S

HS 4b in the BMC guide, which is closer than S 4a, but I wouldn't argue with VS 4c. Would be bold without a massive cam (luckily we had a no 4 camalot)

with Carmen
Alessandro Tentori 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsten Donovan
Montecore 24/Aug/14 2nd β

Horrible thrutchy nightmare - went off route to the left to get up it

with Matt Ray
dbm 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
FernandoHidalgo 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
sadlerbrett 23/Aug/14 TR O/S
with Alex Roberts
Mark Stevenson 26/Jun/14 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 06/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Johnny B Diggerman 18/May/14 2nd O/S

Nice start, the off width crack is awkward but worth it.

with Paul G
quickdrawmcraw 18/May/14 Lead
with hannah
Wevcore 05/May/14 2nd O/S
with James
JB-Rock 05/May/14 Lead
with Kevin
Nick1812P 29/Mar/14 Solo O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 19/Jan/14 Lead O/S
munch88 02/Jan/14 2nd β
with rob
JoeWakefield 02/Jan/14 2nd
robblowen 02/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Brown 01/Dec/13 Solo
with Solo
Chris Murray 10/Nov/13 Lead

Awkward to enter the upper grove.

DanChad 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 07/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/13 Lead
Wiseman ?/Oct/13 2nd
grace jones 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with damon heath
stokienomad 29/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Graces first HS second .

mrdigitaljedi 29/Sep/13 2nd
with stokienomad
HVSJames 24/Sep/13 Lead
Matt Marsh 24/Sep/13 2nd
DanielGyi 08/Sep/13 Solo O/S
kozzi 31/Aug/13 2nd
John-Henry 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Naomi.P ?/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 31/May/13 Solo rpt

nails for 4a, but easier than i remembered

mapperley samurai 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Sorts out the difference preferences in Ben and me. He loved it, I just mourned the loss of skin.

with Ben Moss
garethb 19/May/13 Lead
with cheque
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd O/S
alaster tonge 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Assad Lahlou
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Marcus B 04/May/13 Lead
PeteMc 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd
Rhi Rhi 21/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Col Kingshott 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
stephen Rowley 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Marc Colbeck
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead
Will Gordon 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S

In the dark.

Kendrick 29/Aug/12 AltLd dog
with Si
simonscubadiver 28/Aug/12 2nd dog

Dave tried to lead he couldn't do the top bit - I tried and neither could I both eventually at the top after a little cheating!

Hidden 19/Aug/12 Lead
Pilch 11/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Graham
Steve J P 10/Jun/12 2nd

Got into top crack on second attempt

with BW
Bernie Wylde 10/Jun/12 Lead
with sp
Ron 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Clive
tsjx 18/Mar/12 2nd
with John Mc, Bruce
Hidden ??/2012 -
Greg Jones 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S


alexei.nicholas 05/Nov/11 2nd dog
with Jonny Webb, Greg Jones
rockman 03/Oct/11 Lead

Top crack harder than severe - suprisingly insecure.

timcedwards 03/Oct/11 2nd
feilx 18/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Richard P Coates 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Frank, ianjfsutcliffe
Hidden 02/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/11 2nd
LP 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Met Mike on ledge after a valiant effort. Awesome udgefest! 5a though surely!

SteveM 14/Aug/11 Solo
Adam1973 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
stewart murray 14/Aug/11 2nd
pc1983 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
MJP 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Good value. Certain level of struggle to get gear in at top whilst hanging on

ladymuck 24/Jul/11 2nd dog

Knee jam, ankle jam, arms only just strong enough...

Brannock 01/Jul/11 Solo O/S
CGlennie 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Will Mills
Hidden 11/May/11 Solo O/S
sylwia 08/May/11 2nd

Tough climb as name suggests. A struggle!

with Stuart, Ross
idiotproof (Buxton MC) 08/May/11 -
hazeysunshine 08/May/11 Lead O/S
with Beatrice
Rhythm24 03/May/11 Solo O/S
will randall 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with sarah
Dr Rorlasaurus 28/Apr/11 2nd

Not a VDiff!

alexanderbeetle 28/Apr/11 Lead
hairynortherner 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Lovely lower section, very hard udge fest upper. Done easier vs routes.

with Andy
jon thompson27 12/Mar/11 AltLd
with Alex Thompson
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Solo O/S
bigzy86 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
knicos 12/Feb/11 2nd
with Sam Taylor
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
mattish2000 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Andrew Smith
andy_e 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
valentinesbabe 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Tithe Technique 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S

What a horrible climb and it really does not deserve a star.... Don't bother with this one...

Plungeman 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Anders, Dave S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Oliver Houston 08/Aug/10 2nd
colin milton 08/Aug/10 Lead
with little vic
treg 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Seemed tough for a S4a getting into the second crack, but reading other people's commets, I apparently was approaching it the right way.

with The Clevenger
Hidden 26/Jul/10 TR
KeenClimber 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ron, Lee Healey
manwithacam 12/Jun/10 Lead

Found this harder than the E1 I did later in the day. Not the sort of climbing one practices down the wall but surely nearer hs 4c/5a?

with rachel
liamryan 30/May/10 Lead O/S

A moderate climb with some strenuous moves required to complete it. Overall a climb I emjoyed

RichT 25/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Apr/10 TR RP
alexyoung 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

No way is than S!

with Andrea
broady 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Easy to start but the final crack was a bit of a thrutch

with S Watkiss
john.gaffney 10/Apr/10 Lead
with torialou, Peter Morrisdaboss
Hidden 20/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Mar/10 Lead
mountaingoatgirl ??/2010 Lead

Strenuous was an understatment

with Nick Bean
philw ??/2010 -
pete1993 ??/2010 -
stephenhartley ??/2010 Lead O/S
jimmys 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Tom F
howlingbaboon 23/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Ady
aipattison 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Joe, Henry
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
le_grimpeur 12/Sep/09 2nd
with Dad
DGY 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with John, Barbara, Paul
ojp 05/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Si
Howard J 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Also with Rachel Smith. A bit of a struggle to get into the top crack.

with Darren Shepherd
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead
Graeme Hammond 05/Aug/09 Solo O/S
Piers Harley 02/Aug/09 Lead
with Paul Winder
Danny Crump 29/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
hailtryfan ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Danny
rens 23/May/09 Lead RP

Well worth it. Looks like a hold has broken recently on the face outside the upper off-width. Oddly reminiscent of jtree, without the teeth.

with viktor kolomeyko
Steven Andrews 03/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 2nd O/S
adam carless 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S

a few squirmy moves, but good fun.

with Jon_nz
sharpie530 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Neil Pacey 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Felt very traditional, good use of shoulder jamming.

Hidden 28/Feb/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
67hours 28/Feb/09 2nd
with douglas
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 01/Dec/08 Solo dnf
Strong Steve 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead
rayash 21/Jul/08 2nd

its no giveaway

with greg
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd
Mike Lee 25/Jun/08 Lead
with Michelle
westong 08/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Ian Broome 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tanya
Hidden 07/Jun/08 2nd
TGreen 31/May/08 AltLd O/S
with sam w
gambit247 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S

good old fashioned climbing.

chris_j_s 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Catherine Speakman, Angela Sankey
btc 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with elliot hunston
Hidden 07/Jan/08 TR
TiffTiff 21/Oct/07 Solo O/S
antpayne2003 ?/Oct/07 Lead
with Angela Morgan
chadrads 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with dusko basich
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Piers Harley 25/Apr/07 Lead
with Richard Matthews
PanzerHanzler 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Jim Vach 10/Apr/07 Solo O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden 31/Mar/07 2nd
Flax 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Toby Reichenbach
victim of mathematics 03/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Jaime
Rjukan ?/Feb/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
lemonhead1986 ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Lauren Foster
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead
Stig 30/Aug/06 Solo
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 28/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/06 Solo β
rob wmc 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Pete & Steve
naughtybadboy 03/Jun/06 2nd
gibbo38 03/Jun/06 Lead
with brian
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
simonw1 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Allan Watson
Hidden 24/Sep/05 Lead
WRMusall 24/Sep/05 2nd
with Charlie G
Nicos 21/Sep/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden ?/Jun/05 2nd
SMc 15/May/05 -
with Anne
Hidden 24/Apr/05 2nd O/S
shoulderbreaker 08/May/04 Lead O/S
with Luke Foulger
JPM71 ??/2004 AltLd O/S

short partner started up it.

Hidden ??/2004 Lead
roverhead 21/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
bigphil 21/May/01 Lead O/S
with Kate
Rampikino 24/Feb/01 Lead
Paul-Michael 11/Sep/99 2nd O/S

Diccon's lead.

with Gary Bond, Diccon Proctor
roncaves 09/Jun/99 Solo
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Nov/96 Solo
DundeeDave 06/Jul/96 2nd
with Charlie, Ben Hughes
stokienomad 10/Jun/96 Lead
rocktigger ??/1996 Lead O/S

Like the traditionalists, in my walking boots. An' it eat my sole!!!

with chopper
andrewbooth1000 30/Jul/95 2nd
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/94 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/May/94 Solo
Hidden 16/Jun/90 Lead
goi.ashmore 23/Sep/89 Lead O/S
with Marc Bellingall
Iain Thow 13/Jun/87 Solo
tapley 28/Jul/83 Solo
MikeDowsett ??/1978 Lead
Nigel Bond 14/May/77 Solo
mikej 23/Feb/74 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Jul/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
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High S
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Low S
Votes cast 64
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set