12m.

Rockfax Description
Next is a thin flake in an undercut slab. Gain the slab by using the flake (wires) and then continue precariously up the flake also using the right arete to a harrowing final couple of moves. Harder and scarier than it looks. © Rockfax

FA. John Fleming 1977

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Laurence Everitt 28 May Show βeta
βeta: A sideways nut quite high up the crack is actually pretty good.
 
Show beta
βeta: A sideways nut quite high up the crack is actually pretty good.
Ropeboy 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not as bad as it looks, tricky pull to get etablished on the slab with good gear at your waist and then pretty steady to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not as bad as it looks, tricky pull to get etablished on the slab with good gear at your waist and then pretty steady to the top.
teddy 14 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Found the starting pull over the roof hard but maybe I put the wrong (right) foot up over the roof first?(prob best to put left foot on the unhelpful sidepull thing). Upper section not too bad but there is a high tricky last move up the arete fortunately with a cam at your waist.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found the starting pull over the roof hard but maybe I put the wrong (right) foot up over the roof first?(prob best to put left foot on the unhelpful sidepull thing). Upper section not too bad but there is a high tricky last move up the arete fortunately with a cam at your waist.
Garan 21 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: One which may be easier for the short! The flake is not the gear monster you are hoping for! The moves are fantasrtic moving right to the arete. Remember, it's a slab. Top end E2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One which may be easier for the short! The flake is not the gear monster you are hoping for! The moves are fantasrtic moving right to the arete. Remember, it's a slab. Top end E2.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 27 May Lead RP
Mike505 14 Apr, 2018 Lead G/U Figured I have a go, the definitive stated E2 5c but once on the upper slab looking down at my gear i'd have to agree with E3. One hell of a rock over then onto bold slab padding, the gear a fast fading memory before the break offers sanctuary (of sorts). Reminded me of 'Commander Energy' only I found this harder.
with eb202
Figured I have a go, the definitive stated E2 5c but once on the upper slab looking down at my gear i'd have to agree with E3. One hell of a rock over then onto bold slab padding, the gear a fast fading memory before the break offers sanctuary (of sorts). Reminded me of 'Commander Energy' only I found this harder.
with eb202
eb202 14 Apr, 2018 2nd dog Fell twice at the rock over/side pull. Slapped up the slab to gain the arete, grateful for something resembling a hold. Pretty full on!
with Mike505
Fell twice at the rock over/side pull. Slapped up the slab to gain the arete, grateful for something resembling a hold. Pretty full on!
with Mike505
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
mrteale 19 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S A gem of a climb. Quintessential gritstone moves.
with sd2k
A gem of a climb. Quintessential gritstone moves.
with sd2k
afrosam 3 Jul, 2017 2nd
with Pippa
with Pippa
Pippa 2 Jul, 2017 Lead
with afrosam
with afrosam
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt
bwestwood 9 Oct, 2016 2nd
pie_eater_pete 9 Oct, 2016 Lead G/U
RKirke 13 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Stroppy 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Nearly got spat off but managed to cling on for dear life
with RKirke
Nearly got spat off but managed to cling on for dear life
with RKirke
kyaizawa 7 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Denis Gleeson
with Denis Gleeson
Louishmouis ?Sep, 2015 -
with ben
with ben
Hidden 28 Jun, 2015 2nd
Nick1812P 15 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21 Mar, 2015 2nd
with Nic Sellars
with Nic Sellars
Tom Briggs 21 Mar, 2015 2nd
with Nic Sellers
with Nic Sellers
dan_o_b ??, 2015 2nd dog
Ewan Russell 28 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 28 Oct, 2014 2nd
Brown 12 Oct, 2014 TR
with Lilifa
with Lilifa
steveb2006 1 Sep, 2014 Lead Unseconded - got gear near top of flake but not sure I trusted it
Unseconded - got gear near top of flake but not sure I trusted it
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
dprctr 20 Apr, 2013 Lead dnf Baffled! After many attempts going back and forth I had to give up. Could not find any decent finger locks or footholds to get over the overhang with.
with Fiona McFarlane
Baffled! After many attempts going back and forth I had to give up. Could not find any decent finger locks or footholds to get over the overhang with.
with Fiona McFarlane
deacondeacon 1 Sep, 2012 Lead one fall, then clean. nails!
one fall, then clean. nails!
Gudge ?Aug, 2012 2nd
with Cliff Shasby
with Cliff Shasby
Hidden 10 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf
Tony Little 5 May, 2012 Lead rpt
with Merk
with Merk
Ewano 15 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Found this really hard, I wouldn't have complained if it got E3. And definitely hard for 5c. Crackin' route though, could do with better gear at the top of the crack. Got pumped fiddling a crap wire in.
Found this really hard, I wouldn't have complained if it got E3. And definitely hard for 5c. Crackin' route though, could do with better gear at the top of the crack. Got pumped fiddling a crap wire in.
Graeme Hammond 18 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt Tough, good climbing, backed off previously. Well pleased to get up this :) Abseiled for gear as getting dark.
Tough, good climbing, backed off previously. Well pleased to get up this :) Abseiled for gear as getting dark.
thetradlad 5 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf Hard
Hard
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 20 Nov, 2011 TR O/S
stuaart 12 Nov, 2011 Lead Desperate.
with Neil Redgrave
Desperate.
with Neil Redgrave
Matt Cooke 29 Oct, 2011 Lead dog
AlexRenshaw 23 Sep, 2011 2nd
with Thomas Renshaw
with Thomas Renshaw
Douglas 19 Sep, 2011 Lead dnf
Alex Winter 19 Sep, 2011 TR Was very windy so gave it a quick blast on top-rope. Felt desperate.
with Doug
Was very windy so gave it a quick blast on top-rope. Felt desperate.
with Doug
nicolat ?Aug, 2011 2nd
with James Mitchell
with James Mitchell
geddicakes 9 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ahab
with Ahab
chris wyatt 16 Apr, 2011 TR RP Got established on the slab twice but could not see how to proceed and fell onto gear. Rigged up a top rope and did the moves. This is a great climb but definately beyond me to lead clean onsite. Could it be E3?
Got established on the slab twice but could not see how to proceed and fell onto gear. Rigged up a top rope and did the moves. This is a great climb but definately beyond me to lead clean onsite. Could it be E3?
C coldwell-storry 8 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
with Adam Gill
with Adam Gill
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
Hidden 30 Sep, 2010 2nd rpt
Andrew Barker 29 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Hard and scary, especially as I didn't have the right gear for the higher part of the crack.
Hard and scary, especially as I didn't have the right gear for the higher part of the crack.
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
helios 10 Jul, 2010 2nd
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf
mark20 4 May, 2010 2nd dog
Hidden 4 May, 2010 Lead O/S
goshawk 25 Apr, 2010 Lead
with Dean Conway
with Dean Conway
Hidden 25 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
burto 18 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with hertha
with hertha
Hidden 7 Mar, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden ?Dec, 2009 -
Alex@home ?Sep, 2009 Lead dog think it was 2009. definitely hard for 5c. and for e2. did this the same day as seconding fern groove and thought this a lot harder. very good though
think it was 2009. definitely hard for 5c. and for e2. did this the same day as seconding fern groove and thought this a lot harder. very good though
JulesV 5 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 5 Aug, 2009 2nd dog
steveb2006 15 Jul, 2009 Lead
with Paul E
with Paul E
DavidEvans 9 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dave Parton, Alistair Shore, Nige, Adam Ellwood
with Dave Parton, Alistair Shore, Nige, Adam Ellwood
Hidden 21 Apr, 2009 2nd
sparkass 21 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S Felt really hard for E2, had to try quite hard!
with Rob Lovatt
Felt really hard for E2, had to try quite hard!
with Rob Lovatt
Dan 85 6 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S Only gear I could find was at the bottom of the flake crack! Potentially messy
with Ollie B
Only gear I could find was at the bottom of the flake crack! Potentially messy
with Ollie B
jibberingwreck 2 Jan, 2009 Lead dnf Several lobs from the flake - then suffered hot aches. One to come back for. On a warmer day.
Several lobs from the flake - then suffered hot aches. One to come back for. On a warmer day.
Martin Haworth 30 Nov, 2008 Lead dnf fell on overhang more than once,nearly got it
fell on overhang more than once,nearly got it
Hidden 18 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
wilchivs 18 Oct, 2008 Lead dnf Yeh...bit tricky this one!
Yeh...bit tricky this one!
Hidden 9 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Apharri ?Jun, 2008 2nd
with Andre Hedger
with Andre Hedger
Hidden ??, 2008 -
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
feilx 21 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with john
with john
Alex Mason 17 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S possibly hardest E2 ever done, stiff pull followed by increasingly scary tenuous climbing, brilliant!
with mick radford
possibly hardest E2 ever done, stiff pull followed by increasingly scary tenuous climbing, brilliant!
with mick radford
Fraser13 15 May, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2007 TR
JonBray 4 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 6 Aug, 2006 2nd rpt
Hidden 15 Jul, 2006 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 28 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S Finally got up something clean after struggling with multiple failures. Brilliant little route, bit thuggy through overlap then technical and a little bold.
with Alex
Finally got up something clean after struggling with multiple failures. Brilliant little route, bit thuggy through overlap then technical and a little bold.
with Alex
Ropeboy 22 Apr, 2006 Lead
dan gibson 31 Mar, 2006 Lead O/S
with martina
with martina
oldmanrivers ??, 2006 Lead
Boy ??, 2006 -
UKB Shark 5 Oct, 2005 Lead O/S
with Karl Walton
with Karl Walton
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 5 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
Daniel Armitage 14 Apr, 2004 Lead RP
Hidden 22 Nov, 2003 Lead O/S
Duncan I ?Apr, 2003 Lead
with Al Taylor
with Al Taylor
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??, 2003 -
Hidden 4 Jun, 2002 2nd O/S
Ben Bransby 12 Jan, 2002 Lead
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16 Feb, 2001 -
with Muir Morton
with Muir Morton
Obi-Wan is lost... 20 Feb, 2000 2nd
with Adam
with Adam
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead
r0b 16 Oct, 1999 Lead dnf
Jon Read ?Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
chris sm 18 Jul, 1999 Lead O/S
sadams 10 Jun, 1999 Lead
with Hugh Cottom
with Hugh Cottom
Hidden 16 May, 1999 Lead
Simon Pearce ??, 1999 -
Billg 27 Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
with Duncan Poole
with Duncan Poole
DavidEvans ?May, 1998 2nd
with SCUM, William Wilson
with SCUM, William Wilson
Rob Davies ?May, 1998 Lead dnf
bigphil 27 Apr, 1998 2nd dog
with Calum
with Calum
Chad123 ?Apr, 1998 Lead
with Will
with Will
steveb2006 15 Feb, 1998 Lead
with Paul Goodman
with Paul Goodman
Hidden ??, 1998 2nd
Mark Riley ??, 1997 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
with Richard Ibberson
steveb2006 21 Oct, 1995 Lead No one seconds
with Beryl Strike
No one seconds
with Beryl Strike
John Southworth ?Jul, 1995 Solo O/S
SR1970 ?Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 2 May, 1994 Lead O/S
with Anne Arran, Tim Gould
with Anne Arran, Tim Gould
Mike_d78 1 May, 1994 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 3 May, 1993 2nd O/S
Roget 6 Mar, 1993 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
crossleysm ??, 1993 Lead O/S c.93
c.93
samt 17 Jun, 1992 Lead
Tony Little 17 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
with Gavin, Martin, Sam and Simon
with Gavin, Martin, Sam and Simon
Fakey Rocks ??, 1992 2nd
NeilGriffiths ??, 1992 -
WB ??, 1992 Lead O/S
Neil McA 13 Oct, 1991 2nd rpt
with Dave Hesleden
with Dave Hesleden
Hidden 12 Oct, 1991 2nd
jfletcher 8 Sep, 1991 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 1991 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 1990 TR
Hidden 17 Jun, 1990 2nd
andybirtwistle 31 May, 1990 -
Marti999 ??, 1990 Lead
phardman 15 Apr, 1989 Lead O/S
with John Lloyd
with John Lloyd
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jan, 1989 2nd
Rich Kirby ??, 1989 Lead
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1987 Lead O/S
Rob Seymour 27 Jul, 1986 Lead O/S
with Stu Mackay, Jim Seymour
with Stu Mackay, Jim Seymour
John Marsland 15 Jun, 1985 Lead
Dave Musgrove 24 Feb, 1985 Lead Pretty sure this was with Frank but could have been Kim?
with Frank Wilkinson
Pretty sure this was with Frank but could have been Kim?
with Frank Wilkinson
Neil McA 24 Apr, 1984 Lead O/S
with Steve Hartland
with Steve Hartland
Mark Kemball 4 May, 1983 Lead
with Paul Clark
with Paul Clark
nbotting ??, 1982 -
andy gittins ??, 1982 -
Mark Kemball ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 36
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set