Rockfax Description
Next is a thin flake in an undercut slab. Gain the slab by using the flake (wires) and then continue precariously up the flake also using the right arete to a harrowing final couple of moves. Harder and scarier than it looks. © Rockfax

FA. John Fleming 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide).

mrteale 19/Sep Lead O/S

A gem of a climb. Quintessential gritstone moves.

with sd2k
afrosam 03/Jul 2nd
with Pippa
Pippa 02/Jul Lead
with afrosam
Hidden 25/Mar Lead rpt
bwestwood 09/Oct/16 2nd
pie_eater_pete 09/Oct/16 Lead G/U
RKirke 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Stroppy 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Nearly got spat off but managed to cling on for dear life

kyaizawa 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Denis Gleeson
Louishmouis ?/Sep/15 -
with ben
Hidden 28/Jun/15 2nd
Nick1812P 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Calum
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21/Mar/15 2nd
with Nic Sellars
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 21/Mar/15 2nd
with Nic Sellers
dan_o_b ??/2015 2nd dog
Ewan Russell 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 28/Oct/14 2nd
Brown 12/Oct/14 TR
with Lilifa
Hidden 01/Sep/14 Lead
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
dprctr 20/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Baffled! After many attempts going back and forth I had to give up. Could not find any decent finger locks or footholds to get over the overhang with.

with Fiona McFarlane
deacondeacon 01/Sep/12 Lead

one fall, then clean. nails!

Gudge ?/Aug/12 2nd
with Cliff Shasby
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Tony Little 05/May/12 Lead rpt
with Merk
Ewano 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Found this really hard, I wouldn't have complained if it got E3. And definitely hard for 5c. Crackin' route though, could do with better gear at the top of the crack. Got pumped fiddling a crap wire in.

Graeme Hammond 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Tough, good climbing, backed off previously. Well pleased to get up this :) Abseiled for gear as getting dark.

with Jim
Laurence Everitt 05/Mar/12 2nd dog
thetradlad 05/Mar/12 Lead dnf


Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 20/Nov/11 TR O/S
stuaart 12/Nov/11 Lead


with Neil Redgrave
Matt Cooke 29/Oct/11 Lead dog
AlexRenshaw 23/Sep/11 2nd
with Thomas Renshaw
Douglas 19/Sep/11 Lead dnf
Alex Winter 19/Sep/11 TR

Was very windy so gave it a quick blast on top-rope. Felt desperate.

with Doug
nicolat ?/Aug/11 2nd
with James Mitchell
geddicakes 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 16/Apr/11 TR RP

Got established on the slab twice but could not see how to proceed and fell onto gear. Rigged up a top rope and did the moves. This is a great climb but definately beyond me to lead clean onsite. Could it be E3?

C coldwell-storry 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Adam Gill
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Sep/10 2nd rpt
Andrew Barker 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Hard and scary, especially as I didn't have the right gear for the higher part of the crack.

Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
helios 10/Jul/10 2nd
Wood for Trees 19/Jun/10 Lead dnf

met the floor

mark20 04/May/10 2nd dog
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
burto 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with hertha
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Alex@home ?/Sep/09 Lead dog

think it was 2009. definitely hard for 5c. and for e2. did this the same day as seconding fern groove and thought this a lot harder. very good though

JulesV 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Shauna 05/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Jules
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead
DavidEvans 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Parton, Alistair Shore, Nige, adam ellwood
Hidden 21/Apr/09 2nd
sparkass 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Felt really hard for E2, had to try quite hard!

with Rob Lovatt
Dan 85 06/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Only gear I could find was at the bottom of the flake crack! Potentially messy

with Ollie
jibberingwreck 02/Jan/09 Lead dnf

Several lobs from the flake - then suffered hot aches. One to come back for. On a warmer day.

Martin Haworth 30/Nov/08 Lead dnf

fell on overhang more than once,nearly got it

with Andy
wilchivs 18/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Yeh...bit tricky this one!

Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Andre Hedger
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
feilx 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with john
Alex Mason 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S

possibly hardest E2 ever done, stiff pull followed by increasingly scary tenuous climbing, brilliant!

with mick radford
Fraser13 15/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/07 TR
Nicos 04/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with pete graham
JonBray 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 06/Aug/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Finally got up something clean after struggling with multiple failures. Brilliant little route, bit thuggy through overlap then technical and a little bold.

with Alex
Ropeboy 22/Apr/06 Lead
dan gibson 31/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with martina
oldmanrivers ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
ukb & bmc shark 05/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Karl Walton
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Daniel Armitage 14/Apr/04 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Nov/03 Lead O/S
Duncan I ?/Apr/03 Lead
with Al Taylor
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/2003 -
Hidden 04/Jun/02 2nd O/S
Ben Bransby 12/Jan/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16/Feb/01 -
with Muir Morton
ABCD ??/2001 Lead rpt
Obi-Wan is lost... 20/Feb/00 2nd
with Adam
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
r0b 16/Oct/99 Lead dnf
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
chris sm 18/Jul/99 Lead O/S
sadams 10/Jun/99 Lead
with Hugh Cottom
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Billg 27/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Duncan Poole
DavidEvans ?/May/98 2nd
with SCUM, William Wilson
Rob Davies ?/May/98 Lead dnf
bigphil 27/Apr/98 2nd dog
with Calum
Chad123 ?/Apr/98 Lead
with Will
Hidden 15/Feb/98 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Mark Riley ??/1997 2nd
with Richard Ibberson
Hidden 21/Oct/95 Lead
John Southworth ?/Jul/95 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 02/May/94 Lead O/S
with Anne Arran, Tim Gould
nokishatov 01/May/94 Lead O/S
ste_d 03/May/93 2nd O/S
with mik
Roget 06/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead O/S


samt 17/Jun/92 Lead
Tony Little 17/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Gavin, Martin, Sam and Simon
Rock to Fakey ??/1992 2nd
NeilGriffiths ??/1992 -
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/91 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/90 2nd
andybirtwistle 31/May/90 -
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
phardman 15/Apr/89 Lead O/S
with John Lloyd
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead
Eduardo Martinez ??/1987 Lead O/S
John Marsland 15/Jun/85 Lead
Dave Musgrove 24/Feb/85 Lead

Pretty sure this was with Frank but could have been Kim?

with Frank Wilkinson
Mark Kemball 04/May/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
nbotting ??/1982 -
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Mark Kemball ??/1980 Lead
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 34
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set