Rockfax Description
Climb past the left edge of the overlap to a break, swing right and stretch past pockets to another break. A hard pull gains a flake on the left and easier ground. Probably 5c for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1980

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List.

scarmichael 15/Oct/17 Lead dnf

Just in reach....wouldn't want to be short on this one!

with Steve Wooton
Ben Bransby 03/Jul/17 Lead
Mike505 18/May/17 Lead dog

I would have liked to pull the ropes for a clean lead however time was short and I didn't want too hog the routes all evening. Lovely starting sequence into a crux that is better left for a cold day, probably only a 5c for the tall or those a large ape index.

Graeme Hammond 04/May/17 Lead RP

Should have waited for a cooler day and gone for the on-sight as flashed moves on shunt though then dropped them after due to the temperature which was boiling on the route, but blowing a gale on top! As I'm reasonably tall placing the gear (which is really good if placed right) post crux was ok (still blind) but knowing what cam and where made a big difference, is possible to pull up to check though. Fantastic moves the whole way and super safe crux after a mildly bold start, felt 6a even though i'm nearly 6ft, must be nails for short people or I had a duff sequence (left hand into the best hold from undercut and rock up to break).

with Jim
RKirke 13/Aug/16 Lead G/U
Stroppy 13/Aug/16 2nd RP

Could commit on lead but went first time on second. No commitment!

deacondeacon 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Well cool, but right 'ard. Although it was last route of the day. Right hand in pocket and left hand in mono on arête (felt 6a like that but maybe easier I it was colder. Found the last move hard with the pump, and awkward to check cams. Pleased to get this clean.

JamesWilliams 03/Oct/15 Lead dnf

Did the crux off the pocket 4th go after taking some big lobs. Couldn't see the cam in the next break so didn't want to chance it jumped off and stripped it.

robertmctague 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Hard for e3 I thought.

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 07/Mar/15 Lead β
harry_lewis 18/Feb/15 Lead dog
with Albert & Nina
Albert Exley 18/Feb/15 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead G/U
Rich Kirby 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S


with Pauline & Andy, Helen
climberchristy 01/Jun/14 Lead G/U

Tried this about 2 weeks ago and rested on gear having struggled because I couldn't see into the break above the crux. Did clean, ground-up repeat today. Definitely hard for the short. Feels a good 6a if short though E3 probably still fair as pro is good and never that run out.

with bencole
fabricio 31/May/14 2nd
with lee
pie_eater_pete 21/Mar/14 Lead
bwestwood 10/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Oct/12 2nd β
Mr Wild 09/Sep/12 Lead dnf

pumped crazy at second break traversed to the right

Matt77 26/Mar/11 2nd
with Owen
Owen W-G 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf

First E3 attempt in 2ys. Got as far as the sloper above the RH pocket a few times but basically bottled it. Essentially safe though and one to come back to.

with Matt B
Dave Warburton 02/Oct/10 Lead G/U

Fell off pulling on Pocket. Then got besotted with it and eventually managed to hang the break with a pop. Placed a cam blindly as i couldn't see into the break so i couldn't trust it so escaped right, to see it was good. Great move really good fun for me, bit like a Peak 'Atomic'.

Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
tuftynick ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dean
Si dH 21/Feb/09 2nd dog

two rests on the rope - the first and main crux each took me two goes. Quite pleased with performance really though, no long rests and it was hard. Really good lead by Neil - his first proper E3 onsight for about 3 years.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Nicos 11/Dec/08 Lead dnf
with john crook
Hidden 16/Sep/08 Lead dnf
climbergg 24/Aug/08 2nd
Tim M 24/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Got to the second break (hard), placed friends blind but didnt have the confidence to finish. Will try with left hand in pocket next time.

with Emma
Hidden 03/Aug/08 2nd dog
TomHaigh 14/May/08 2nd dog
with Doug
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead dog
with Richard B
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead rpt

Felt OK this time round.

with SteveOc
sam8oy 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Got it after trying a few months ago. Definately better to get the obvious pocket with the left hand!

with John
sam8oy 31/Mar/07 Lead dnf

Fell off twice at the slopers in the second break. Will get it next time though!!!

with John
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead
Ram MkiV 28/Jun/06 Lead dnf

made it as far as matching horrendous slopey holds just after the pockets before falling off (twice). Felt absolutely desperate though apparently better to get pocket with left hand. Maybe try again when colder.

with Alex
Mark Riley ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S


Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/03 2nd O/S
Gus 06/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with luisa giles
highlux ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 19/Jul/00 TR
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 06/Dec/98 2nd
Hidden 22/Mar/98 TR
ste_d 18/Jul/97 2nd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 18/Jul/97 Lead
Billg ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/96 TR
Hidden 06/Jul/95 TR
goi.ashmore 07/May/95 Lead O/S
with Matt Hirst
Hidden 21/Jul/94 TR
nokishatov 01/May/94 Lead O/S
Roget 06/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 28/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
Neil McA 13/Sep/87 Lead O/S
with Richard White
sadams 15/Feb/87 Lead
with Mark Bonham
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 24
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set