Rockfax Description
Start as for Verandah Buttress to the shelf then continue direct via a short crack and a final l-o-o-o-o-o-ng stretch. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1954

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

LBrown 28/Sep/17 Solo
danJBA 18/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/17 2nd
max_chan 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Good fun. Well protected

with Paul - PCC
chancer 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ed Wigmore, Marc Duhig
marcduhig 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Edward W, Alex Pond
Hidden 16/Aug/17 Lead
cragsman9000 10/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden 29/Jul/17 2nd
peterhubbard 29/Jul/17 Lead
with Conrad
Jim Walton 07/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Jim Walton 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Great route, very well protected with a long reach from an undercut or a pebble pull. I went for the long reach.

Hidden 03/Jun/17 -
ashtond6 21/May/17 2nd
Hidden 11/May/17 2nd O/S
fharnish13 11/May/17 Lead O/S
with Almaas
Alan James - UKC and UKH 02/Apr/17 Lead
with Mike
scottycrimpsalot89 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S

My first assent at HVS. Challenging first move and doesn't soften up much after that.

There's Always A Bigger Cam 01/Apr/17 2nd

Horrendous first move. Can't believe it's a HVD move. Rest of the climb was hard but nice. Would have been delicate and reachy on lead though.

harry.morrish 30/Mar/17 Lead O/S

very reachy last move, very pleased when I got over the top!

with pete
thrutch 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Sven
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Oo 09/Oct/16 2nd
with Tim_C7
Ben Turner 18/Sep/16 2nd RP
xbraddersx ?/Sep/16 2nd dnf

Couldn't do start move, had a bit of help at the start ;)

with Martin Meadows
nick ferro 13/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Oli Birkill
Cheeks 24/Jul/16 Lead
with Mark Murphy
rajeshwarbisht 19/Jun/16 Lead dnf
with Flavio
Flavio 19/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/16 -
Andy Moles 22/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Simon
BarnDawg 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

it only took me 30 tries to get the first move

with Chris
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
scarmichael 03/Apr/16 2nd
with MSD
Hidden 25/Mar/16 2nd
shaunhumphreys 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
pete1993 25/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Shaun
Lukem6 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
Ian Saxton 10/Oct/15 2nd
with martin
martinbettridge06 10/Oct/15 Lead
Paul ablitt 04/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead
ben.phillips 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Pati, Rob Kempster
Robaduck 29/Aug/15 Lead
Dominic Green 23/Aug/15 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 23/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd
garywong 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Exhausting! Spent ages working out the start and the rest didn't feel easy either, though it does have good gear.

RobScarisbrick 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Dave Rumney 09/Aug/15 Lead
with Tanya Milner
mapperley samurai 02/Aug/15 2nd
with Matt Jaggers
Hidden 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Andypeak 23/May/15 2nd
Dan Vaj 04/May/15 Lead O/S

The start is the crux!

with Jonathon Clark
Hidden 14/Apr/15 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd β
robgixer ??/2015 -
gazfellows 02/Nov/14 Lead
with Graham
Hidden 05/Oct/14 2nd dnf
Hidden 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
RichardMc 04/Sep/14 2nd
with Andy Sutton
OffshoreAndy 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with ukc richard
tsjx 03/Aug/14 2nd
with John Mc
Angus Taylor 17/Jul/14 2nd RP

first move seemed impossible till we found a little fingertip undercling which simplified it a bit. rest of the climb was nice, if a bit reachy, and slippery in the sunshine.

Mark Duncan 17/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead
Hardcore Pat 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
helin 06/Jun/14 2nd
with chris
Gudge 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Helen B
Matt Poole 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Thomas Heaton
fabricio 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with lee
Bullybones 21/May/14 2nd
with Neil
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd
kp64zl ?/May/14 2nd
with Julian M
admackie 28/Mar/14 Lead
dannyboy83 19/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Ridiculous first move!

Alex Hallam 19/Feb/14 2nd RP

Concur with Dan, I advise some kind of testicle protector and copious stretching beforehand.

Palmer 02/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 01/Dec/13 Lead
Jim Slater 19/Oct/13 2nd O/S
pebbles 29/Sep/13 2nd dog

could not make the final reach to the top and pulled on the rope. even rechy in the middle, top was just a reach too far

with kevin
mark4344 28/Sep/13 2nd
with derek, Matt Payne
Coel Hellier 08/Aug/13 Lead
Gudge 08/Aug/13 2nd rpt
hotfeet 16/Jul/13 2nd dog
with Keith
claregardiner 07/Jul/13 Lead

Getting off the ground was pretty ridiculous. Found the rest of the route quite tough but well protected, probably lots easier when its not 30deg!

rich_hw 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
treg 19/Jun/13 Lead

And I thought getting established on Martello Buttress was silly. Took a few attempts to get onto the shelf (including landing bum first on a rock in the ground; didn't load any gear, can I claim an onsight?). The interest keeps coming higher up, but the difficulties are well protected and a bomber wrist jam allows for a great rest after the first crux. Glad I'm tall for the final long reach. Quality route, just a little short.

with Patrick
Hidden 16/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Lazytraveller 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 TR O/S
alice fuller ?/May/13 2nd O/S
with woj
nick ferro 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
stuart34 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S

brilliant, too short though

Hidden 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/13 2nd
chinkus303 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd rpt
bobpilgrem 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S

Good lead by Tom

with Tom
tompilgrem 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Dad
deacondeacon 15/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Kirill 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Paul Baxter 07/Oct/12 2nd
with Kirill
Ramblin dave 07/Oct/12 2nd dog

Pulled on gear on the start and pumped out and had to rest before the finish.

with Paul B, Kiril
eduardo 06/Oct/12 Lead dog

Neeed a rest to commit to the top. Annoying really..

with James Rose
Steve Perry 04/Sep/12 Lead

Very powerful, I got pumped halfway.

mol 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Jesse
Gudge ?/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Pete Staves
Wayne S 16/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/12 2nd
RichyBOYY 10/Jun/12 Lead
R0bbie 14/Apr/12 2nd
with Taba
Nigel Bond 29/Mar/12 2nd
with Bern Hardman
Milne 20/Mar/12 2nd O/S

bit reachy at the top, great climb though.

tallsop 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S


with terry
Steve Waters, Mynydd 14/Mar/12 2nd

Arms too pumped after The Link and so handed the lead to Richard. Excellent little route with long reach to the top.

with Richard Waltham
Wilbur 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Certainly packs it in, 5b start, hard 5b middle I thought, pumpy and reachy top-out. quality little HVS..

with Rick
dickie01 19/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Julian King
Pete Nugent 18/Nov/11 2nd

Dixie led. Myself & JC stuggled to get off the ground. Eventually, gave me a leg up to get established on VB - frustrating because I have soloed VB in the past. Good well protected climbing on Buitchers - must come back to lead once I have got my hip sorted!

jcurley 18/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Falko 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Al W.
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 25/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/11 2nd dog
theotherpetehill 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mes32 22/Oct/11 2nd

Hilarious start! Refused to use a boost.

ian d f 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Interesting start

Hidden 22/Oct/11 -
Mowglee 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ali
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
mark4344 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Andreas
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Aug/11 2nd
Andy Fielding 31/Jul/11 TR
kitkat78 30/Jun/11 2nd
with SteveM
SteveM 30/Jun/11 Lead
with Kat
thekendo 19/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd β
john lynch 19/May/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
busdriver 08/May/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead β
llamaglama 09/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Nick, Jam
Nick1812P 09/Apr/11 2nd β
with Jamie
Hidden 23/Jan/11 Lead
thekendo 23/Jan/11 2nd rpt
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
gnc760 20/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with Mark Duggan
Graeme Hammond 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S

nice moves, (especially the cool undercut to reach the top) after the 'start'

with Becky E
thekendo 31/Oct/10 Lead β
thekendo 30/Oct/10 Lead dnf

got to the last move then backed off

samwillo 25/Oct/10 Lead
with Jay
Jay C 25/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Sam W
b.hayley 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with alfredo
Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
James_D 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tim
Rachel Slater 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Super reachy, as i'm a short ass (5'4").

kermit_uk 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Steve Woolass
chrishedgehog 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with James
Stig 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Chris
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
fatbuoybazza 01/Aug/10 Lead β
with foreman, liv_the_div
Fran S8 ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/10 2nd β
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Dogmusher 09/May/10 Lead
with chris parson
drcorbasisgod 09/May/10 2nd O/S
paul79 17/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd RP
gidmord 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Ben Harper 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/10 2nd
fatbuoybazza 20/Feb/10 Lead dog

reversed from the crux halfway up, down to ledge, then had a rest on the rope, got thru the rest fine on 2nd go, good route..

Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Aufton 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Christian Minett
Alfredo 05/Sep/09 Lead
with Ben H
b.hayley 05/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with alfredo
frost 19/Aug/09 Solo O/S

back roped with a grigri

leon 16/Aug/09 Lead

moving onto the route proper i spent far too much time wondering about my hands and not paying enough attention to possible foot holds that might become invisible as i moved up. a valuable lesson

with Steven Davidson
Hidden 18/Jul/09 TR RP
Rachel S 18/Jul/09 2nd
mel holmes 12/May/09 2nd
with Tony Reed
jameshall 01/May/09 2nd O/S
with Tom Blond
Alan James - UKC and UKH 19/Apr/09 Solo
Brown 19/Mar/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
Ram MkiV 06/Mar/09 Solo O/S
with lee, al, guy
keith leonard ??/2009 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
koopa ??/2009 -
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Si dH 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 18/Oct/08 2nd rpt
troutbeck 15/Oct/08 2nd
jwpil 11/Oct/08 2nd dog
with Neil
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
GrahamPlant 10/Sep/08 Lead
with Chris Vanderhoven
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead
garethb 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
TonyF 19/May/08 Lead O/S
with David
porridgefan 19/Apr/08 2nd β

Bottom of the route was moist...

with Heddwyn Fletcher
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Mick B 12/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with Rick Asher
TimPerkin 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Sue Hewitt
Hidden 24/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
dan gibson 24/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with martina
Nicos 29/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with solo
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Different Steve 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S

good route - that top move takes some working out...

Hidden ??/2006 -
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Tobias at Home ??/2006 -
chris sm ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 15/May/05 Lead
Ben Bransby 15/May/05 -
Hidden 23/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/04 Lead
SMc ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Anne
cem 21/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Liam Mark, Rod Strachan
Carl Smethurst 31/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Ian Pickles
beermonkey ?/Aug/03 2nd
with Mr Binks
Hidden 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
John Marsland 05/May/02 Lead
with Darrell Small, Allen Newby
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 -
Ropeboy 16/Apr/00 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Boy ??/2000 -
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
cragspud ??/1999 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 30/May/98 Lead O/S
with Martin Smith, Nicky
Podling 21/Sep/97 Lead
goi.ashmore 28/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
Strong Steve 07/Sep/96 Lead O/S
jim_randell 17/Jun/95 TR O/S
roncaves 20/Dec/92 2nd
with James Thomas
Roget 05/Oct/91 Solo O/S
steve taylor ?/Jul/91 Solo
with jon jones
Hidden ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 03/Jul/88 Lead
mike bridges 13/Jul/86 2nd O/S
with Neil Gregory
Dave Musgrove 11/Jun/86 -
Hidden 22/Aug/85 Lead
Tom V ??/1984 -
stp 07/Aug/83 Solo O/S

Awkward start. Hard and reachy finish. Good.

stp 07/Aug/83 Solo O/S

Awkward start and tricky and reachy finish. Seemed like HVS and certainly considerably harder it's neighbour, Greengrocer Wall to the L.

Hidden 19/Mar/83 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 58
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set