Rockfax Description
Climb the left-hand of a pair of parallel cracks then the wide left-trending rift to a narrow and exposed exit where helmets jam. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage Starred VDiffs, Stanage Popular Greens.

funkyvin1 04/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Three individual problems make up this route, an off width crack, a mini back and foot chimney and a cramped squeeze out onto the final arete which is made easier with good body position. Very enjoyable.

Hidden 04/Nov/17 2nd
nick ferro 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
PaulaCotton 15/Oct/17 2nd O/S

My first clean HVDiff! Hard start and very cramped near top - I left battered and bruised but with a big smile of accomplishment on my face.

Mikethe boar 16/Sep/17 2nd
with Rick Mattheson
KeenClimber 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S
JoeLucas 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
robblowen 26/Aug/17 Solo rpt

68 of 100

papasmurf 22/Aug/17 2nd
with Simon Stokes
Ben Bransby 15/Aug/17 Solo
jshields 09/Jul/17 Solo
gaz3212 18/Jun/17 Solo O/S
mountainremedy 21/May/17 Lead O/S

Great fun!

Hidden 07/May/17 2nd
AndrewCArmstrong 07/May/17 Lead O/S
JOHNB-W 05/May/17 Lead
besiix 05/May/17 Lead β
with John
Danny Crump 30/Apr/17 Solo
with Catherine Smith, Cat
john max 23/Apr/17 Lead
Becky 20/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Jonny, Emily
stonejumper 08/Apr/17 Lead
dpiddock 08/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Chris P
cpoad 08/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Dan P
Hidden 25/Mar/17 2nd
Hidden 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
stephenmckenzie 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 Solo
NatashavG 02/Oct/16 2nd
with Mvg
Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
lucybradbury ?/Oct/16 2nd
Phil West 24/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Chris Tan
matt_batchelor 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Adam
adawson 04/Sep/16 2nd
Markheighton 25/Aug/16 -
keitht 03/Aug/16 Solo
Nick205228 ?/Aug/16 -
BridgetteB 10/Jul/16 2nd
John Brayshaw 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with BB
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/16 Solo O/S
ryan1410 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Hugo Underwood
Lawrence Beesley-Peck 13/Apr/16 Solo
pete1993 13/Apr/16 Solo O/S
robblowen 05/Apr/16 Solo rpt
Nick1812P 03/Apr/16 Solo O/S
MrFantastic 16/Mar/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Griff1990 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
escape 09/Oct/15 Lead
with Debs
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd
Chris Oldfield 02/May/15 Lead O/S
with Francis Warrick
MSchobitz 18/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Flavio 05/Apr/15 Solo O/S
alaster tonge 04/Apr/15 Solo
fuzzysheep01 21/Mar/15 Solo O/S
David_Gledson 10/Mar/15 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Very traditional, closer to S than the VD given in the guide. Much better than Right Twin Chimney :)

with Carmen
MikaelW 13/Sep/14 2nd

Jo did the first route of that week-end, nice. I was quite intimidated, back to stanage and all that.

with Jo
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Solo
timcedwards 02/Sep/14 2nd
rockman 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
timcedwards 02/Sep/14 2nd
liverpooldave 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S


charvey 21/Jul/14 Solo O/S

The top section is quite a squeeze.

Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd
eurasia 21/Jun/14 TR O/S
marr.simon 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/14 2nd
SophGreen 08/Jun/14 TR O/S
Hardcore Pat 01/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 Solo O/S
Capricorn One 20/Apr/14 2nd
shumidrives 20/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
robblowen 28/Dec/13 Lead O/S
JoeWakefield 28/Dec/13 2nd
dannyboy83 07/Nov/13 Solo O/S
with Jonny P
Martin Davies 19/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Powney 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Andy, Carol
Andy Moles 30/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with -
jason smeeth 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Jenks82
Jenks82 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
ChrisBrooke 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Keeley Scholes
cpoad 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Clare F
MrFreekie 26/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Couldn't get up the chimney.

with Tom
wiswilson 10/Aug/13 2nd
with Neil Lloyd
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd
ju59 13/Jul/13 Lead
with Helen
victim of mathematics 01/Jul/13 Solo O/S
redknight137 19/May/13 Lead
jacob.holding 19/May/13 2nd O/S
with Martin Holding, Kevin Robinson
meltdown34 24/Feb/13 TR O/S

Practise of installing protection while on top rope.

AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Jay C 02/Dec/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/12 Solo O/S
Dan Geh 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Freshers
Bradbury 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Luke Evans
bigbadbob12345 22/Jul/12 2nd
stev1e.wilso 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Dylan
dsh 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Ellen Woods
paul_j_burgess 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

What a finish. Don't get to high in the roof crack or you'll get your helmet stuck. Oooh err missus ! Great jams in the horizontal break take the sting out of the finish.

JJB 10/Jun/12 2nd
disturbed_one51 10/Jun/12 Lead
Keith11 04/Jun/12 TR O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 29/May/12 Solo
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd O/S
john max 27/May/12 2nd
with Jen Maxfield
hang_about 24/May/12 2nd
deacondeacon 21/May/12 Solo O/S
Martin Cooper 13/May/12 Solo
Martin Rowe 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Martin Rowe 27/Mar/12 Solo rpt
P Carroll 27/Mar/12 2nd O/S
tallsop 06/Mar/12 -
with Dave Saxby
mikestr555 16/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mountaingoatgirl 02/Sep/11 Solo
al123 24/Aug/11 Solo
edd rab 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Lawrence Rab
LP ?/Aug/11 Lead

Moved off crux of scoop crack to finish up this. Threw helmet off in tight bit. Ends in a good position. A better way to end the day.

with dpitt83
Hidden 21/Jul/11 Lead
FrJ 10/Jul/11 2nd
daviesp2 10/Jul/11 2nd
risby 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Chimney low down was green and slimy. Chimney at top was too narrow for my helmet so required move to exposed arete.

with Max Streeton, Thomas Vaughan
tev 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Ris, Max
Steven Andrews 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
j.hubbard 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd
joeydurkin 03/Jun/11 Lead
beings 19/May/11 Lead
with Andy
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd O/S
Palindrome ?/May/11 2nd
jamiemcdonald 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Michelle Taylor
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
colin milton 21/Apr/11 Solo
ian2707 09/Apr/11 2nd
skip222222 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Peter Broadbent, Kyle Bayliss, Ian Moore
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
lithos 24/Mar/11 2nd
with ade
mariannekhoo 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
catty_9 26/Feb/11 2nd

dry and very windy

with Becky Hampshire, Pete Swan
Becky H 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Catherine Johns
uphillnow ??/2011 -
stevorobs3 ??/2011 Lead O/S


Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
dmaldonado 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sam Jones, Tom Withers
Tom Campbell 30/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
kev82 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Howard J 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Started up Scoop Crack but thought better of it

Hidden 11/Jul/10 2nd rpt
glennofsheff 15/May/10 Lead O/S

took over from chris, who placed gear in adjacent flake, from top of first wide crack.awkard to enter final crack removed helmet felt quite bold pushing out onto face but solid holds appeared as you would expect at grade. alot of work for not muck reward . average

Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Ed Griffin 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Richard McDermott, Sara Kedge, Alaric
Andrew Sandercock 07/Mar/10 Solo O/S
bobbarnes00 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Richard Roberts
red.stiletto 18/Oct/09 Lead dnf

gave up at the horrible narrow off-width top out, tried traversing left and ended up being rescued from above - oops!

Adam Potter 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 16/Oct/09 Solo O/S
Howard J 01/Oct/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Big Steve 12/Sep/09 Lead
with Karen
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
barryjacks 09/Aug/09 2nd
with Andrew Maddison
Karlos 08/Aug/09 Solo
DaNo123 02/Aug/09 2nd
with em + jez
mic_b 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Solo
Hidden 30/May/09 Solo dnf
fatbuoybazza 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
mattparratt 25/Apr/09 Lead
SteveM 05/Apr/09 Solo
lucasp 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with ditch
Hidden 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Pixie-Andy 15/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Wil.Hooke 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
stronglikebear 07/Jan/09 2nd
Johnny B Diggerman 07/Jan/09 Lead

Started on Balcony Buttress, too much snow and ice at top to complete final ridge, traversed right and completed The Flue instead, will return another day!

with Dan L
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
mark_jc ??/2009 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Hidden 10/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd
Dax 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Stuck to the crack at the start .. nice technical little move with my feet. Then up into the cave area. Big holds once found make it easy to move up to and below the big crack to the top. Tried to stay out of the crack at the top but a certain amount of body jamming did, unfortunately, take place

Adrian Bates 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 10/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Timothy Greenhalgh 31/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Alison
red-poppy 11/Jul/08 -

First practice lead, placing gear on top rope

with Masood Baggia
DerwentDiluted 17/Jun/08 Lead
with Chris B
spum 19/Mar/08 Lead
with jim &carrie
Hidden 19/Mar/08 Lead O/S
hurl 22/Sep/07 2nd
with Paul
Hidden 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Col Kingshott 20/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 02/Jun/07 Lead
with Roger Brown
Jim Vach 19/May/07 Solo O/S
madaxeman 01/May/07 2nd
with Chris Young
Stick 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S

went slightly off route (due to small children top roping) di the enjoyable middle section (flake) of balcony buttress then hand jam traverse back onto the flue, much more interesting.

with Fat Al
cakebrake 27/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Faff Faff and more Faff, was a fun climb but scary, did a cool bridge to tread a chalk stone.

with Wee Man
markbenton 07/Apr/07 2nd
with ?
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Graeme Hammond 17/Feb/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
thomasadixon ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
a_d_tru 29/Oct/06 Lead

Traditional thrutch!

with Carol
Dave Wearing 30/Sep/06 2nd
with Gybebunny, Jason Kirk.
Gybebunny 30/Sep/06 2nd
with Dave W, Jason K
Hidden 30/Sep/06 2nd O/S
tallsop 16/Sep/06 Lead
with andy
Hidden 03/Aug/06 Lead O/S
b.hayley ?/Jun/06 Lead
Marc Murphy ?/Apr/06 AltLd
Hidden 05/Feb/06 Lead O/S
coffeepot 05/Feb/06 2nd
Tobias at Home ??/2006 -
Nicos 20/Oct/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 22/Sep/05 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
tobydunford 15/Sep/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/03 Lead
Phil West 21/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Mark Stevenson 25/May/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Goody 09/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Solo
Hidden ?/Sep/00 Solo O/S
Howard J 06/Feb/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 -
Howard J 21/Aug/99 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/98 Lead
roncaves 04/May/98 Solo
Dave Mountford 13/Apr/97 Lead
with Tony (stig)
Hidden 12/Oct/96 Lead O/S
neal 03/Aug/96 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/94 2nd
atom 24/Apr/94 2nd
with Sheila Ellison
Hidden 29/Aug/92 Solo O/S
tapley 24/May/90 -
Andy Say 27/Aug/89 Solo
goi.ashmore 14/Oct/88 Solo O/S
Iain Thow 25/Jun/88 Solo
Tom V 18/Apr/87 Solo
Nigel Bond 22/Jul/80 Solo
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Solo
mikej 25/Mar/73 Solo
Canyak ??/1973 -
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High S
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High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 37
High 4b
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High 4a
Mid 4a
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High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 33
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