Rockfax Description
The imposing chimney is climbed on (very) polished holds to reach the balcony and a stance. Often green. Escape right across the top of the chimney or, better, finish through the overhang above the ledge by a couple of weird moves on jugs; S 4b. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Piggott et al early 1920s 1922

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, 100 Stanage stars, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage Starred VDiffs, Stanage Popular Greens.

rosso 11/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Helena
Mark Richardson 22/Sep/17 Lead
Dominic Burke 22/Sep/17 2nd
JoeLucas 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
robblowen 26/Aug/17 Solo O/S

51 of 100

WillRhodes 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Climbed to rig top-rope for Cave Arete, with gear in that route, so felt a little scary.

with Kenzie Smith
Ben Bransby 19/Jul/17 Solo
Michael Morrell 22/Jun/17 Solo O/S
chris.greaves 18/Jun/17 2nd
James 'pyjamas' 07/May/17 Solo O/S
Etta 15/Apr/17 2nd

Terrible route. Polished and green... and very hard to do in the cold wind with increasingly colder and number hands. Took a lot of swearing to finish it.

simoncov 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Etta
Alex Hyde 15/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 Solo
Jonny Holmes 15/Nov/16 -
themattyshep 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S


Hidden 01/Sep/16 2nd
Markheighton 25/Aug/16 -
keitht 03/Aug/16 Solo
The Reaper 05/Jul/16 Solo O/S
rajeshwarbisht 19/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Flavio 08/May/16 Solo O/S
ryan1410 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Hugo Underwood
MrFantastic 16/Mar/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Solo O/S
sas 04/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
John Foster 10/Jun/15 2nd
with Geoff
Dazluke2000 17/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/15 Solo O/S
ian hendy ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Ceri Chapman
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Darryl.h ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
john_ni 27/Sep/14 2nd
john max 27/Sep/14 Lead
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo O/S

100 IAD No. 82

Hidden 28/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 22/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Done as part of the 100 stanage stars ticklist. 43 routes in 15 hours. Absolutely exhausting, but what an achievement! Well done Ben and thanks!

with Ben Philips
ben.phillips 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Doug91 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Matt
meltdown34 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
charvey 08/Jun/14 Solo dnf

Backed off after realising the garden taken root in the upper half of the crack.

Hidden 30/May/14 Lead O/S
climbingrev 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Not particularly elegant - typical 1st climb of the day. Made a bit of a meal of this. In retrospect, not too bad. One or two trickier moves for the grade. Probably easier if chimney end it properly!

with Gav I'Anson, Tim Angell
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
alexcollins123 ?/Oct/13 2nd
Nick_Merriman ?/Oct/13 Lead
Andy Moles 30/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with -
splat2million 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/13 Solo
alexdaniel654 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Ash_Johnson 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
kfowler141 26/Jul/13 Lead
Toby Dunn 05/Jul/13 Solo
EDB4YLI55 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead
jwhereat 05/May/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Jan/13 Solo
Hidden ??/2013 -
dsgarner 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Quite green

Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead
Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Dan Vaj 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Khalid
khalidq 29/Sep/12 2nd
deacondeacon 20/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Griff1990 23/Jul/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead
Strong Steve 25/May/12 Lead O/S
charley 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with JackD
Jackwd 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Awful. Polished and a toilet. Smelt great in there. Never again.

Hidden 10/Mar/12 Solo
Scott Dunkley ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
John-Henry 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
crimpy 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S

nice, to arrive at the cave :)

with Jhc
Adam Perrett 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S
johnl 20/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Adam Perrett
Hidden 17/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Solo O/S
rockaddict ?/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/11 2nd O/S
sam g 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead
joscott 13/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
llamaglama 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Jam
Nick1812P 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Boe Jailey 23/Mar/11 Lead
jacobroberts 06/Mar/11 2nd
with Serinde
Sardien 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

in the dark all slimy and green - not the easy VD I was expecting

with Jacob Roberts
Paul Boggis ??/2011 Solo
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Emma Painter ??/2011 2nd O/S
with Tom
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
ElvisLeg 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah Freeman
Rich K 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Wayne Cheung
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/10 Solo O/S
PHILD 30/Jul/10 Solo
with Ally Hurst
Jack Whiteley 18/May/10 2nd O/S
with Ros
Denatone 18/Apr/10 TR O/S
markytaylor 14/Apr/10 2nd O/S
ricky6386 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Freaked a bit nearer the top, greasy and polished....and only fourth lead, shaky legs!

with Gav
Hidden 14/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Andrew Sandercock 07/Mar/10 Solo O/S
CharlieMack ?/Mar/10 Solo O/S
chris552303 ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
TomWebber 15/Nov/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Nov/09 2nd
Adam Potter 20/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Alfredo 07/Aug/09 Solo
Hidden 03/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/09 Lead
mic_b 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Solo
tlr 20/Jun/09 Solo
petemeads 29/May/09 Solo
PanzerHanzler 25/May/09 Lead rpt

Used as start to Broken Arrow

stevemcg 25/May/09 Lead

very hard for the grade, little protection at the top

with Bryn
Hamster 25/May/09 2nd O/S

Andy lead the E1 5b (Broken Arrow) finish for his first E1 lead,

barrylong 24/May/09 Lead rpt

Still good, but the crux is surprisingly hard due to the scary polished nature of the footholds.

with Kathryn
bridget143 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with Lisa and John
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
lucasp 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Felt quite hard for the grade. Maybe that's down to the polish?

with matt (hensman)
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
rd2904 16/Apr/09 Lead
with Darren Southcott
Hidden 16/Apr/09 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Mr. K 12/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Too polished and slimey for me today. Had a complete epic getting the gear back - abbed down to get it, then the rope jammed pulling it up which required another ab to free it. Epic fail! =o(

with Bryn Wood
Hidden ?/Apr/09 2nd
Will Gordon ?/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Merlin 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
rob wmc 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden ??/2009 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Brown 06/Dec/08 Solo O/S
SteveM 17/Oct/08 Solo
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd O/S
andyfeds 20/Jul/08 -
with Neil T, Alaric
Philsy 12/Jul/08 Lead
with Baz
sylwia ?/Jun/08 -
Hidden 14/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/08 Solo
colin milton 07/May/08 Lead
with ibbo
kenneM ?/May/08 Lead
with Steve Marner
achatzs 30/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Bradbury 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Bex_M 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Ewan Buckingham
Chris Ellis 29/Aug/07 Lead
with Helen Odwell
charlie barnes 25/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with dan
Jim Vach 19/May/07 Solo O/S
philboy 02/May/07 Lead
Hidden 02/May/07 2nd
peter myers ?/May/07 Lead
CharlieC 28/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Ali
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden 10/Mar/07 Lead
Graeme Hammond 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Phil PBC ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
dan_o_b ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Lead
Hidden 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
PanzerHanzler 28/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with David Rafe
neilfish 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S

First onsight lead. A bit slimy, but easy gear placement.

Hidden 16/Aug/06 Lead O/S
windedcolt 16/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/06 2nd O/S
munnsy 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Emma
howlingbaboon 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Neil
Monk 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with RUMC
flytzen 17/Jun/06 Lead
with Nick Mercer
a_d_tru 10/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Neil S, Philipa
viking56 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with JEH
Hidden 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/06 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/May/06 Lead β
dave_tomlin ?/May/06 Lead
with Laura Cundy
Tobias at Home ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Dec/05 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead
Nicos 20/Oct/05 Solo O/S
with solo
chiverstom 19/Oct/05 Solo O/S
with None
Hidden 22/Sep/05 Lead O/S
spacey ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with jo macey
madaxeman 06/Aug/05 2nd
with Dave Potts
samwelli 04/Aug/05 2nd O/S
with Matt Jackson
Whitt ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
craigswoods 31/Jul/05 Lead β
with Rob Nason
Marc Murphy ?/Jul/05 Lead
cem 15/May/05 Solo O/S
phsharpy ??/2005 Solo O/S
with The American Preacher
Hidden ??/2005 -
tommcdonna 10/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Jonno Cox
Mike Turner 11/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Adrian Fagg
victim of mathematics 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S
jonnie3430 29/May/04 Lead O/S
with Julia
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
cliffy ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Kerry Irwin
tobydunford 16/Sep/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/03 Lead
Hedley 27/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 15/Mar/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
simon kimber ?/Nov/02 Solo
roverhead 28/Sep/02 2nd
Hidden 02/Apr/02 2nd
Hidden 02/Apr/02 Lead
Dave Toseland ??/2002 -
Simon Caldwell ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Carmen
DundeeDave 01/Sep/01 Lead
with Keith Wilkinson, Ben Hughes
Will Gordon ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Haglington ?/Nov/00 Lead O/S
with Viv Scott
Hidden ?/Sep/00 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/00 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
kevtoo04 ??/2000 Solo
JamesP ??/2000 Lead
akhughes ??/2000 -
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
IanGilbertJones 07/Nov/99 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 05/Sep/99 Lead
with Paul Hampson
roncaves 15/Feb/98 Solo
Jim Brooke 19/Oct/97 Lead
Roget 18/Oct/97 Solo O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 28/Sep/96 Lead
Jim Brooke 29/Aug/96 2nd O/S
with James Latham
EddieA 31/May/96 Solo O/S
Trobbo 07/Apr/96 2nd
with john blower
Rampikino 03/May/95 Solo
nai ??/1995 Solo
Hidden 19/Jun/94 Solo
Phil West 29/May/94 2nd β
with Steve Wild
Hidden ??/1994 -
fellgazelle ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Tim Cook
jim_randell 03/Jun/93 2nd O/S
with MS
Hidden 20/May/91 Lead
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 29/May/90 Solo
mattnuttall 12/May/90 Solo
with Alan Holden
DerwentDiluted ??/1990 Lead
with Tim Stain
whispering nic ?/Oct/89 Solo
with Gaz Smith
Hidden ??/1989 Solo
Hidden ?/Nov/88 TR
Rog Wilko ?/May/88 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Andy Say 27/Aug/87 Solo
Iain Thow 10/May/87 Lead
with Steve Ball, Phil Moorey
Hidden ??/1987 -
Gambit ??/1987 2nd O/S
with Adam and Phil
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/84 Lead
malc 23/Jul/83 Solo
Ian Clare ??/1982 -
Hidden 01/Mar/81 Solo
duncan ?/Mar/81 Solo O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Solo
Tom V ??/1980 -
Andy Fielding ??/1979 Solo
Nigel Bond 08/Jun/78 Lead
with Martin Crosby
MikeDowsett ??/1978 Lead
Brian Wilderspin ?/Oct/77 Lead
Chris Ellis 15/Apr/77 2nd
with Martin Veale
Canyak ??/1973 -
Dave Musgrove 07/Oct/72 -
Hidden 23/Jun/72 2nd
johnwright 13/May/72 2nd
with D Helliwell
rogerskews ??/1972 -
Hidden 01/Apr/67 Lead
mikej 12/Jun/66 Lead
with Ted Markham
Hidden ??/1966 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/65 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/64 Solo
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
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