Rockfax Description
The lower section of the smooth wall is climbed via a problem start at f6A+ using a cruel finger-jam (desperate for short climbers). Swing left then gain a standing position in the break with difficulty. The upper section then follows the thin crack and gradually eases. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Brayshaw 1959

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Tick List for 2015/2016, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, Stanage Wishlist, Extreme 2018.

luke glaister 07/Jan Lead dog

Gutted. Messed up and took the whip. So much easer when u know how. Wanted the onsight bad on this too.

Hidden 08/Nov/17 2nd rpt
Harry Ellis 06/Nov/17 2nd dog

couldnt do move to first break, pulled on rope, only just got up the rest

kelliroberts3 27/Oct/17 Lead G/U

Jim placed gear in break. I lead through on Jims gear.

with Jim Tan, Peter Rigby
mattlyons 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Josh Willson
jrccrosby 30/Sep/17 Lead dnf
with tom
Hidden 30/Sep/17 Lead dnf
tom.wp6 25/Sep/17 Lead dog

Will be back. Remember to use the feet properly and the crimp out left after getting to first break. Smallest cam and small blue offset in break possible, but poor. A smaller nut in crack above ideal

Sam O'Rourke 14/Sep/17 TR β
with Dan Cade, Flick Gibbons
morganator 22/Jul/17 Lead

Multiple failed attempts. Eventually manned up

with Stan Halstead
Stroppy 16/Jul/17 Lead G/U

That first move is a little bit nasty (fell off repeatedly)

with Cathy
Andy Peak 1 12/Jul/17 2nd
amccann 04/Jul/17 Lead G/U

Had fallen off this standing in the break (somehow?) felt easy this time.

with Lucy
PaulTanton 20/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hillson 14/Jun/17 2nd dog
PeteWilson 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Quite tough, stalled out for a while on the middle section! Silly eastern grit non smears. Pretty warm and greasy!

with ECOG, Matt Wilson
andrzej kierzek 03/Jun/17 Lead dnf
with Tara
charleybaby5287 03/Jun/17 2nd

Fell off lots.

robgixer 03/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Charley
Bradbury 01/Jun/17 Lead dnf

Could not do start move

with Luke Evans
Dafydd Llywelyn 28/May/17 Lead dnf

Desperate, greasy.. I was weak

Hidden 28/May/17 Lead O/S
scarmichael 07/May/17 Lead

Stiff for the grade imo, glad to see the back of it!

with Steve Wooton, AllieM
Steve Wootton 07/May/17 Lead G/U
w-watson 29/Apr/17 Lead dnf
jameslomax 29/Apr/17 2nd dog
phil64 19/Apr/17 Lead rpt


with nick gillett
melv 18/Apr/17 Lead G/U
with Fi
Euge401 09/Apr/17 Lead G/U
with Bobby P, Anna S
Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Mowglee 06/Apr/17 2nd dog

Cold hands, painful shoes, too dark, etc etc.

with Jamie
Hidden 06/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
JulesV ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
Mike505 28/Dec/16 Lead dog

Missed the crimp on the second crux and pumped out :-(

Robin Nichols 02/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Jim, Jemma
samrad 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Swain
td72 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

already had gear in the break as my friend fell off beforehand. im tall 6' ish so found it alright.

Francois R 24/Sep/16 2nd

Too hard!

The Grist 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
al99 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with JonesE
JonesE 10/Sep/16 2nd dog

this felt hard and pumpy, steeper than it looks. The Asp felt easier. Good lead from Benny.

with Benny
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead
Quarryboy 04/Sep/16 Lead dog

Think I would have done this clean if it wasn't my warm up, got cold hands/pumped on the second crux so had to sit on the cam, after about a minute of my hands underneath my pits was able to then climb to the top.

with Alkis Tsapanidis, Alasdair Dickinson
Alkis 04/Sep/16 2nd rpt

Seconded clean after lowering off the second crux on the lead. Found the boulder problem at the bottom rather hard and at the very very end of my reach even with my foot on the starting hold but at least I got it on lead, after downclimbing rather a lot. The second crux is not easy either.

Rob Gillespie 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Climbing it on such a hot day was probably a bad idea I came so close to coming off

Mowglee 13/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Ali
samt 10/Jul/16 Lead
with Russel English
kermit_uk 10/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Still feels hard to be honest, though all over after 2 moves. Good fun in sideways rain and howling wind! Bracing!

Mowglee 08/Jul/16 Lead dog

Tried to ground up it a couple of times but ran out of steam. Tough!

with Ali
Hidden 30/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/16 TR
thealbinocrab 30/Jun/16 Lead G/U

dont bother if it's warm. Side pull feels Ming In the heat.

Marcus Wright 22/May/16 Lead O/S

Hard start but super cool moves though

with Borge
islandlynx 30/Apr/16 Lead dog
TomRiddelsdell 30/Apr/16 2nd β
with amy death, Shane Williams
robblowen 10/Apr/16 2nd dnf
with Jonny, Munch
rajeshwarbisht 10/Apr/16 2nd dnf
with Flavio
munch88 10/Apr/16 2nd β
with rob
Flavio 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
ashtond6 10/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Loads of easier E3's :)

oread 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
timrooker 25/Mar/16 2nd dog

route name says it all. not convinced i can claim second on this but there is no option for 'hoisted up by pete', so it will have to do. made it to the top and retrieved all gear though which is what matters really!

pete1993 25/Mar/16 Lead G/U

desperate as the name suggests, but brilliant techy climbing

with Tim
Hidden 15/Jan/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
M_Robinson 17/Oct/15 Solo rpt

Went up to work out the hard moves above a pad, but was too scared to jump or downclimb, so carried on

albarnett93 17/Oct/15 2nd dog

F-ing Hard

matt.stevenson 17/Oct/15 Lead dog
Rharrison 10/Oct/15 Lead G/U
Nick Russell 10/Oct/15 Solo O/S

Solo above a pad. I thought it would all be over by a safe height, but the move to get standing in the break was pretty necky.

JamesWilliams 04/Oct/15 Lead dog

Hard going from the break to the sloper at half high. Pumped out then back went into spasms

Felix la shat 13/Sep/15 TR
with Louis
Hidden 19/Aug/15 TR RP
mikespooner 16/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Got the hard move off the floor but completely clueless on the move to the 2nd break. Either stupid hard, or I'm stupid. Backed off and sulked.

lukevf 16/Aug/15 2nd
manwithacam 15/Aug/15 2nd

Pretty hard and pumpy but brilliant wall climb

with Stephen
strudles 15/Aug/15 Lead dog

1 rest after getting pumped fiddling with gear too long

EBailey 07/Aug/15 Lead G/U
jsmcfarland 03/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Nails hard route, E1 6a sums it up nicely. Took me 3 tries to nail the boulder problem starting move and jumping onto the route. Got a silver and blue dragon cam in and made it to the diagonal crack then had my first proper trad fall onto them. Coming back for this next year.

with Caelan
shaunhumphreys 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S

tried before but didnt really get off the ground so still onsight, found it surprisingly ok today!

with Elliot
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead dog
TobyA 25/Jul/15 2nd dog

I thought the move above the first break was the crux - pretty desperate!

with TonyB
bethoates 18/Jul/15 TR O/S
MartinJWood 18/Jul/15 TR dnf

Beth did it but I failed to get the finger jam or lay away. Disappointing!

Hidden 03/Jul/15 2nd dog
snook 26/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Managed to invert falling off a move just after the first ledge to the crack. So glad we had a pad and my cam held! Saw someone doing the route later and i should have gone for the nice side pull and not the minging sloper i selected. haha

john lynch 09/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Dylan, Lewis Andrew
Hidden 02/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead dnf 23/May/15 Lead G/U

Felt properly hard for 5c!

Wil Treasure 16/May/15 Lead
with Everyone!
MrBIond 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 2nd dog
mrteale 15/May/15 2nd β
with MrBlond
RFWilkie 10/May/15 Lead rpt
Andy Peak 1 01/May/15 Lead rpt

If you can climb this then you probably won't strudel with a lot of e3s

with Jone nuttal
John Nuttall 01/May/15 2nd dog

Lead 1985

with Andy Peak 1
hervenuttall ?/May/15 Lead O/S
with Matt W
Wil Treasure 20/Apr/15 TR
Kevster 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
tebs 17/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Adam
Jackwd 08/Apr/15 2nd rpt

Good effort Luca!

with Luca Celano
LJC 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
James Smith 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S

hard start, easy finish. delightful!

with geoff
grp 20/Mar/15 Lead
bencole ?/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Dad
Teappleby 05/Nov/14 2nd

quite hard first moves for the short!

benkelsey 05/Nov/14 Lead rpt

took a few tries to get off the floor.

Albachoss 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
RKirke 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Banksy
TRFrost 26/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with J. Hulbert
Bron H 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
ralphio 03/Oct/14 2nd

Crux felt more like 6a to me. Took a couple of tries to get it. Route still felt very sustained after that. Would have struggled on lead.

with Ash
Ash Sayers 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Hard E1, Pad to protect first moves... I like my ankles.

Gudge 29/Sep/14 Lead dnf
with Steve Collings
georgenvk 28/Sep/14 Lead dnf
julesmckim 28/Sep/14 Lead RP

Harder than remembered. This has my least favourite hold anywhere! Couldn't do it statically, so had to pop for the break. Well-named! Much nicer after first moves

Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead dnf
DaveMo 27/Sep/14 2nd
with Jan
g1m147 07/Sep/14 2nd
with Mick.
Gympaul 31/Aug/14 -
Hidden 07/Jul/14 Solo
MYox 14/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Hot, midgy, and hard. Felt 6a the way I attempted it. Got initial reach with high foot, faffed placing (poor) gear and then rocked over on a pebble to left crimp. Note to self: this is not the way to do it. Proceeded to pump out on jug above. First trad fall. Excellent.

with Jim
Luxulyan 12/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Desperate! Couldn't actually do the start so came in from side.

with Tom Murrell
tim.fairhall 08/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Hui
NDD 02/Jun/14 Solo
Hidden 30/May/14 Lead dog
Rachel Slater 18/May/14 Lead RP

Didn't properly commit to the first move the first time, so second go, ground up.

Hidden 18/May/14 -
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
robgixer 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Radical-G 09/Mar/14 Lead RP
WillDoyle 04/Mar/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 01/Mar/14 2nd

this is a stupid grade, E3 6a?! quite alot harder than Cave Eliminate @ tough E2 6a

Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead dog
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
hilty ??/2014 Lead O/S
with kyle holden
Nick1812P 17/Dec/13 2nd rpt
with Matt
Matthew Ferrier 17/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Got the bottom static which was nice.

with Ben, Nick Priestley
Dave Heaton 08/Dec/13 2nd
jakenichol 08/Dec/13 Lead

Couple falls off boulder problem start

jmills94 07/Dec/13 TR dnf

tried for fun as was only thing dry in the morning. got to the break but couldnt stick the jams any higher

with ed
Dan Bates 28/Nov/13 -
Jackwd 12/Nov/13 Lead β

Finally got it after falling off a couple of years ago. Quickly re-remember the sequence and went for it.

valentinesbabe 12/Nov/13 2nd dnf

Gutted. Popped a tendon trying to get this one again :-(

Hidden 08/Oct/13 Lead O/S
DaveMo 06/Oct/13 Lead dnf

couldn't reach from first to second break. took a couple of falls trying this. needed to rock over a high right foot.

with Joe Chambers, Jan
Stone Muppet 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Traversed off right from the first break so I could return with the correct sized cam. Then did it properly.

with hauke
Andy Peak 1 01/Oct/13 Lead

A tricky littel bugger:-)

with random
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead dnf
Mr. K 14/Sep/13 2nd
James Oswald 14/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Not my best work. Poor show.

john lynch 10/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Joe Holden, ed luke
rich_hw 01/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Fran
Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd dog
David Kay 18/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Got the first part clean, got some cams then couldn't work out the next moves...I thought I'd done the hard bit, maybe I was missing something!

with Mynydd C.C.
Hidden 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
hlegge 01/Aug/13 2nd
James Oakes 01/Aug/13 Lead RP

Aptly named, fell off start a few times. Probably worth E2 6a for short.

MikeLeeds 21/Jul/13 Lead dog

Managed to do the hard first move but then missed the good hold out left for the next section and fell-off, annoying.

with John McMahon
tsjx 21/Jul/13 Lead

Couldn't quite complete the first sequence to get hands in the break (so close!), so traversed in.

with Ian
khalidq 14/Jul/13 TR dnf
freudy_love 03/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Pete Macpherson
snomonkee 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 05/Jun/13 2nd

2nd attempt after falling inches below the jug. Got lowered back down to the bottom for the second try. Felt like E2 5c 5c to me and I am 6' 1".

mtempest 05/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Pippa 26/May/13 Lead rpt
mountain_jay 26/May/13 2nd
Si dH 19/May/13 2nd rpt
with Neil Furniss
Anne Gumbley 19/May/13 TR dog
with Harry Middleton
Benjamin walton 05/May/13 TR
Voltemands 04/May/13 TR dnf

Top rope set up incorrectly so only did one move then gave up. Pointless doing such hard routes early in the day.

with Ben Walton
tebs 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Rich, Burns
Dibdawg 27/Apr/13 2nd
Dean177 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Sam Parker 17/Mar/13 TR
with Dad
Liam Ingram 03/Mar/13 2nd dog
Harry Holmes 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Joanna, liam ingram
wolf.leeb 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Dom, jo
ukb & bmc shark 17/Feb/13 Solo
Mackinclimb 09/Feb/13 2nd
Paul Tanner 09/Feb/13 Lead dog

Took a while to figure out the bottom crux, I think it might be 6a for the short, but once its dialled it wasn't too bad, took a few falls

jcooper8 08/Feb/13 2nd
arrang 08/Feb/13 Lead O/S
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
JayAyBee ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Pat
JBO 22/Dec/12 Lead

Stupidly hard for E1 if you're not so tall! 6a at least for me, took me a few goes to get the start.

sadams 29/Oct/12 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
The Biochemist 21/Oct/12 Lead β
climbingsheep 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Ollie B 07/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with B.Brewer
Hidden 27/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Jordan B 17/Sep/12 Solo
rurp 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

hard start and fierce layback off left hand crimp

Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 02/Sep/12 Lead

Couldn't figure out move up from gear on first go and had to lower off - completely missed hold up left. I blame boozy lunch.

with W. Morgan
Nick1812P 31/Aug/12 Lead rpt

must be climbing well, it felt easy today.

with Jake
Jake Young 31/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Nick
Jake Young 28/Aug/12 Lead β
with Mark R
mark20 28/Aug/12 Solo rpt
Haydn Jones 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with deacon
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt
The Big Sender 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 10/Aug/12 Lead RP

have tried the start previously

Cake 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Tried the start and jumped off a few times. Very hard start, but I wouldn't call it top end E1 - the top half is so easy

jwpil 02/Aug/12 Lead β

Previously fluffed the start, lead this time with gear clipped in first break from partners dnf. Cruised the start static, had beta for second crux.

with Deacon
Ewano 22/Jul/12 Lead dog

Onsighted the start, got the gear in, then got pumped faffing around so down climbed and had a rest. Then fell off the start! Stupid, should have been clean. Brilliant route though, start is top end 5c, then no harder than 5a after that. 3*!

Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead
w.pettet-smith 21/Jul/12 Lead

totally missed the left hold above the brake, so felt paticulary desparate. lovely little route

with pat
Simon_Letman 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
Archbishop 15/Jul/12 2nd
with Dan Shacklock
Archbishop 15/Jul/12 2nd
with Dan Shacklock
Sam Marks 05/Jul/12 Lead

It was raining, but the wall pretty dry. Fell off a few times at the bottom, bloody 'ard!

with J. Hodgson, Rory Stead
Jodgson ?/Jul/12 2nd dog
mark20 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hannes B 18/Jun/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/12 2nd
Gareth Bowen 29/May/12 Lead dnf
with Rachel Sutton
Hidden 22/May/12 2nd
Poco Loco 20/May/12 2nd

Felt like 6a. Hard getting off the ground. Top half much easier. Would be a boulder problem with mats.

with David M
esther ?/May/12 Lead
Matt Cooke 28/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Rosh
pie_eater_pete 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
tom.e 31/Mar/12 Lead β
with Malcolm
maddy.c 31/Mar/12 -
Hidden 30/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Tithe Technique 18/Mar/12 TR dnf
valentinesbabe 18/Mar/12 TR dnf

Jack made the moves look easy, the rest of us barely got off the ground. Seemed really hard for E1 5c

Jackwd 18/Mar/12 TR RP

Tried to jump on this as my warm-up/first E1 lead. Managed to get to the last move on the second crux on my first attempt but fell! Then top-roped it clean to remove gear! Hard work!

AdamBrown 10/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
jacobjlloyd 01/Mar/12 Solo O/S

Really enjoyed this. Above a bouldering mat, because I had it with me. Im nearly 6' and used a static height-independent sequence, which I assume must be the 'short person sequence', but it was no way 6a. 5c for all, just tech. Looks like a prime grade-inflation candidate... everyone says its hard, so people believe it is? Never E2.

Apharri ?/Mar/12 2nd O/S
john lynch 29/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with adam harrison
Matt Cooke 19/Feb/12 Lead dog
with Rosh
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
bigdrew 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Si
Si dH 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Couldn't reach on the start (5ft11 but short arms) and had to pop for the break, which felt interesting without a mat.

with Andy
dmoir 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Gid
funsized 15/Oct/11 Lead RP
with Ben Harper, Tom Green
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd
Ed Westwood 15/Oct/11 2nd dog
markalmack 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

i thought this was a little tricky for E1.

with shiobhan
sophiecb 24/Sep/11 2nd

Two 'nails' cruxes. The climbing above the cruxes was enjoyable though. Top effort to Chad for his tenacity on leading this one!

with Chad
Chad123 24/Sep/11 AltLd dog

Had many attempts at start, seems very thin and dynamic move above crap, low gear, not great! Second crux is also pretty hard to arrange gear so whole route feels more like a highball V3...frustrating but glad to finally get to the top!

Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 16/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
Jonathan Hall 17/Aug/11 Lead

Pleased with this onsight. I've been putting it off cos it looked hard and surprisingly, it is! Definately felt 5c/6a ish but i am 5'6".

James_D 13/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't second it either, but great moves.

with John
JPGR 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd dog
Andy Hardy 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead
natalietanzer 10/Jul/11 Lead dog
with will, marcus, nacnud
leon 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Looked at this one a lot. Found the second crux moves a lot easier than I expected, more like 5b. The first move is hard, but more tenuous than strenuous. At 5'11 it was at the limit of my reach.

with Steven Davidson
wi11 10/Jul/11 2nd β
with Duncan, Marcus, Nat
nacnud 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Fran S8 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Nails at the grade (for shorties anyway)! Great climbing.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 29/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
Keendan 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Missed out the start, so traversed in from the right. Maybe HVS 5c this way?

pebbles 27/Jun/11 TR dog

lots of fun trying to work this following unsuccesful lead attempt by dave. very fingery and thin! we all thought more like E2

with alastair, dave shield
Hidden 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
al123 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S

fun. good moves

with alex
tobydunford 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
M_W_Court 14/Jun/11 2nd RP
JRae 13/Jun/11 Lead
Dr Toph 13/Jun/11 Solo RP

One fall from misread start.

nick ferro 11/Jun/11 2nd dog

First attempt rested twice.

nick ferro 11/Jun/11 2nd rpt

Second attempt clean!

Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Joe Grondowski 25/May/11 2nd
with Lewis Andrew, Tom Churchman
wi11 21/May/11 Solo dnf
with Frank C
Hidden 05/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 05/May/11 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Solo
Mark Warnett 30/Apr/11 Lead dog

fell off first move a few times, although not warmed up felt really hard for grade and pumpy

Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
llamaglama 25/Apr/11 2nd RP
with Nick, Jam
Nick1812P 25/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Jamie
Daniel Wicks 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Neil
Chris Redding 18/Apr/11 TR dog
Chris Redding 18/Apr/11 2nd dog
Somerset swede basher 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Chris ULMC
philboy 15/Apr/11 2nd
with Tom
davidgent 09/Apr/11 Lead dnf
with Andy Parsons
JRae 31/Mar/11 2nd
with Ollie B
Ollie B 31/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Wanting to do this route for a long while, finally managed the start. Well worth 3* though, brilliant!

with J.Rae
RFWilkie 27/Mar/11 2nd dog

Lives up to its name! Might have got it clean if hadn't forgotten nut key. Will come back and lead in the future.

with James, Kev
richardr 20/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Through the crux but couldn't make the reach to the upper break, then foot slipped trying to move up. Excellent moves, will come back!

DJayB 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Foot slip right at start

alex_arthur 19/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 08/Mar/11 -
Chi Cheng 08/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Chi Cheng 02/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Could not read the move, fell off. Jon took the lead.

Chi Cheng 02/Mar/11 2nd dog

At 5'4" definitely a 6a move for me. Fell off again on the second. But got to the top. will be back to lead clean.

joese7en ?/Feb/11 2nd RP

I will take the 6a, im short!!!!

Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
benkelsey 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Good moves up to get your hands in the break (I couldn't reach it without an intermittent (6a?) move) good small cams, then 5c moves up to huge flake and good gear and an easier finish. Very enjoyable moves although the gear could have been a bit higher!

d_meacher 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Flash29 16/Oct/10 TR
Ewan Russell 14/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Dewhurst
dashitboarder 10/Oct/10 Sent dnf
with Dad
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 09/Oct/10 Lead
with Rachel Briggs
climbing_rocks1983 09/Oct/10 2nd β

a bit long!!!! 6a for the short eh

with Kieran
Stig 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

So pleased to finally get this, felt easy with good friction. Superb moves.

with Goi
highrepute 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt
nadeem 12/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Not feeling it that day. will be back.

with DLE
Mike_Hayes 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Mr Sparkle 05/Sep/10 2nd
kermit_uk ?/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Steve Woolass
Nick1812P 30/Aug/10 Lead dnf
with Jamie
Dave Foster 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Really good route that's pushing E2... and 6a. I'm tall and still found it quite tricky, long legs mean you've got further to go on first couple of rockovers!

with Andy
HIGHTOWER 22/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Pete Staves
Mr. K 15/Aug/10 TR dog

Nia spent the afternoon struggling up this on the lead and took some pretty impressive falls from about the break. Top-roped to get the gear back.

nia 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
ewan i ?/Aug/10 2nd dog
FlorianCastagne ?/Aug/10 Lead β
with Nathan Rosenfeld
chris sm 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt
feilx 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
DaveFidler 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S

On Swiss Lukas' gear

Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
mjeffery 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Sankey 20/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Luke
theotherpetehill 20/Jun/10 Lead β

Had messed around on the start of this before, felt easier this time

rubben 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Actually fell off on my first onsight attempt. First few moves were quite tough, but it was moving off the juggy sloper (bit greasy), but I just didn't have a high enough right foot...meant the sloper just didn't feel good. Clean on second attempt, and a lovely little climb! (first trad fall and 9th lead to date)

with Marcus O'Leary
withey 19/May/10 Lead O/S

Climbed up and down a few times to work it out, then manned up and did it!

with Nick Mattia
Hidden 18/May/10 Solo O/S
Adam Potter 15/May/10 2nd
willoates 04/May/10 Lead O/S

had to down climb the first couple of moves a couple of times to work it out

with Steve
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
lukea 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Al
disturbed_one51 20/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Nails - did the start and the next move but was too pumped to finish (a few inches before the jug where it eases. TR it to get gear - remind me not to try this after FBD

DannyK 17/Apr/10 Lead RP

Clean after falls.

with Katie
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden ?/Apr/10 2nd β
duzinga 27/Mar/10 2nd dog
with Pete Harris
Graeme Hammond 27/Mar/10 Lead G/U

jumped off the start a few times before trying a different method (going direct rather than left) to gain the break and clean from there. Which got me pumped enough for the jugs after the crux not feel as big as they should of. Cool route

with Craig
tebs 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Really pleased with this, really hard moves low down and at mid height, not sure about 5b for the tall! I thought definately 5c. jugs above. Superb.

with Dunc
Hidden 16/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Will_Maxwell 16/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb, quite pumpy!

with Alex Erskine, Rafael Pena
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Solo
Mike Goldthorp 12/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Jill Reinsch
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
with Duncan Lee/Keith Bolton
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 02/Nov/09 -
Hidden 18/Oct/09 2nd RP
Russ 08/Oct/09 2nd β


with Dave Saxby
Milne 08/Oct/09 2nd O/S

excellent, really pumpy.

Simon Davenport 04/Oct/09 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 23/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Sep/09 Lead rpt
gregoritos 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with John Hall
Alex@home ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

done many times, think the first was around this time, maybe 2008

with The Doctor
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Solo
Hidden 27/Aug/09 Solo rpt
mic_b 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd dog
pastep 08/Aug/09 TR
with ebf
ebf 08/Aug/09 TR dog

Paul tried to lead and couldn't. I could, but only with bypassing the hard start and traversing in from the right. This alternative is still E1/5c, with the direct start being 6a and maybe E2! Hard for an E1, for sure, and very height dependant; if you're 6'3+, you'll reach the break!

chris sm 25/Jul/09 2nd rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
TonyF 15/Jul/09 2nd
with Paul Threthewey
Hidden 06/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Tim M ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg ?/Jul/09 2nd
Shauna 25/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Jules
andi turner 28/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mark Sharratt
TGreen 28/May/09 2nd O/S
with Mark D
Mark D 28/May/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Green
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Ralphie_coombs 04/Apr/09 TR dog
with Malcolm Coombs
gronbech 15/Mar/09 2nd β
with Tom
Hidden 01/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead
Jethro ?/Mar/09 Solo
GPN 21/Feb/09 Lead dog
with Annette
plain kitten ??/2009 Lead
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
bexyboo ??/2009 2nd
Shaw Brown 19/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Failed to get started on this one. Watched a guy solo it later, one to go back for now I have the beta

with annette
Tez29 13/Oct/08 Lead dog
with Mousey
Andrew Barker 10/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Dave Pattinson
derico 10/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Did at end of long day thinking it would be ok - what a mistake! Got pretty pumped trying to work out best sequence for leaving the midway break. Really hard crux but good gear!

with Bandy
Dan 85 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Alexander
Brown 18/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Bridget
Tez29 13/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Sep/08 2nd
Misha 13/Sep/08 Lead dog

Must have tried the start about 10 times and finally got it, just. Couldn't reach the break with foot on the good foothold so had to do a very tenuous move - seemed very hard for 5c. Then missed the obvoius hold used to get past the break and got pumped trying out improbable moves so had to have a rest. Finally unexpectedly fell off just below gear once past the break. Need to go back and do clean!

Hidden 13/Sep/08 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead dnf
will9911 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with erin
Gambit 21/Jul/08 Lead RP

This was a long time coming, never felt comfortable with cracks

with Paul
Hidden 27/Jun/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Jun/08 Lead rpt
alaan 09/Jun/08 Solo rpt

Harder than I remember - not one I should have soloed.

Skell 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
Andy Moles 18/May/08 Lead dog

Oh so close to an onsight, grabbed gear with my teeth to rest my arms for a few moments before making the moves to gain the crack. Bloody hard!

with Rozzy
Guy Wilson 11/May/08 2nd dnf
with Twisty
Twisty 11/May/08 Lead dog

Managed first sequence, the supposedly 6a start, clean onsight. Then because of sweat, last route of the day and burning heat, fingers couldnt stick the finger jam crack to get up to the jug. Took a couple of falls, then just grimaced and made it through! One to lead clean!

with Guy Wilson
SecretSquirrel 03/May/08 Sent dnf

bouldered the starting moves

Nicos 14/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with simon shaw
Hidden 13/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
markpollak ??/2008 Lead O/S

tricky start!

with suzanne mcfadzean
mshorter 12/Nov/07 Lead
with jen
Ram MkiV 11/Oct/07 Solo
with reeve
sparkass ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/07 2nd rpt
Pythonist 05/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Phenomenally aptly named. Has to be the hardest E1 I know (or was, before doing Ice Boat)

with DaveDJ
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier ?/Sep/07 Lead
btc 02/Aug/07 2nd
with ian lovatt
Chris the Tall 28/Jul/07 2nd

Took a few falls before remembering how to do the first moves. Eventually managed it clean from the ground, but it was a struggle.

Ian Broome 28/Jul/07 Lead

Tricky start, found way after a few tries, hard to place gear after first break and 2nd so climbed through, felt more E2 6a.

with Matt
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead rpt
btc 06/Jul/07 TR
with Dan B
Hidden 01/Jul/07 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
Hidden 21/May/07 2nd
nai 22/Apr/07 Lead
with Chris
Monk 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Matt B, Kylie, Mandy
Joe Costello 13/Apr/07 Lead β
with James
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
alaan 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/07 2nd
Hidden 04/Feb/07 2nd β
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
dan_o_b ??/2007 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2007 -
Fraser13 ??/2007 -
Ethan ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Ben Humphris, Don Walker
Hidden 28/Oct/06 2nd
SteveM 08/Oct/06 Lead dnf
with Tobs
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 24/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/May/06 2nd rpt
dan gibson 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Ben Bransby 21/Apr/06 Solo
Hidden 04/Apr/06 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
French Erick 04/Sep/05 AltLd
Dave Kerr 03/Sep/05 AltLd
with Erick Baillot
Alex Mason ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

found it quite steady good fun nice b prob start

lost.arrow 16/Jul/05 2nd

E1 5c ** in my book.

with Isabelle Membrez
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead dnf
Rich Guest ?/May/05 Lead

Couldn`t get off the ground seconding in early climbing career 2003. Fell off after standing in break two years later, stripped and led through, ground up. Tough and very technical, an excellent `know you earned it` E1 tick

Hidden ?/May/05 Lead
Gus 16/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with ben rouse
Daniel Armitage 02/Apr/05 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2005 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Rik Dawes ??/2005 Lead O/S
fellgazelle ??/2005 2nd
with Dave Fooks
Hidden 18/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/04 Lead
willackers ??/2004 Solo O/S
with John Atkinson
shoulders 13/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with paul
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead RP
Dave Bond 28/May/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Hatton
Hidden 08/May/03 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/03 Solo O/S
bigphil 12/Apr/03 Lead
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
DubyaJamesDubya 22/Feb/03 Lead O/S
with Julian (C+C)
phardman 28/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/02 TR
Hidden 17/Jun/02 2nd O/S
chris sm 12/May/02 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Feb/02 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 2nd β
with reeeve
Mark Stevenson 17/Nov/01 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Jun/01 2nd
Hidden 22/May/01 TR
TonyF 22/May/01 Lead
with Andy Neath
Hidden 09/May/01 2nd
Hidden ?/May/01 2nd O/S
kp64zl ?/May/01 Lead dog
with Warrick
Hidden 13/Jan/01 Lead
Rock Fairy ??/2001 2nd
Rock Fairy ??/2001 2nd
Rock Fairy ??/2001 2nd
Boy ?/Oct/00 -
Hidden 19/Jul/00 TR
Hidden 24/May/00 Lead
Hidden 30/Apr/00 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/00 Lead
cornishben ?/Jan/00 2nd O/S
with Ben Raymond
nige ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
jonka ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
akhughes ??/2000 -
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 26/Jun/99 Lead
with Simon Frost
NeilGriffiths 26/Jun/99 Lead
with Simon Frost
CrashMat Rob 13/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Nicky
buxtoncoffeelover 05/Jun/99 2nd
Strong Steve 04/Jun/99 Lead O/S
frost ?/Jun/99 2nd
with N Griffiths
Hidden 03/May/99 2nd
Dave Musgrove 11/Jul/98 2nd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Dad
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/98 2nd
with David
Hidden 14/Feb/98 Lead O/S
Chris Reid 05/Jul/97 Solo O/S
with Dave Plummer
Jon Read ??/1997 Lead O/S
SR1970 ?/May/96 Lead RP
Scott McRae 20/Apr/96 Lead RP
with Graham Proctor
rob.grafton 10/Feb/96 Lead
with Bruce
Hidden 22/Oct/95 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/95 -
John Southworth 16/Jul/95 Solo O/S
Rich Kirby 26/May/95 Lead
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1995 2nd

Seconded in the 1990s.

leathers ??/1995 -
crossleysm ??/1995 Lead O/S


Daniel Wrightson 10/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with Richard Bradbury
Dave Mountford 12/Aug/94 TR
with Damon Heath
Hidden 07/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 30/Apr/94 Solo O/S
D Tempest 31/Oct/93 Solo
with Rick
Neil R 01/Aug/93 Lead
with Sharon
Neil R 05/Jun/93 Lead
with Richard W
Hidden 29/May/93 Lead
nokishatov 01/May/93 2nd O/S
IanD353 ??/1993 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 27/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with KM
andybirtwistle 25/Jul/92 Solo
Hidden 21/Jun/92 Lead
ste_d 24/May/92 Lead O/S
with mik
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
whispering nic 20/Oct/91 Solo
with Ali W
Laramadness 30/Aug/91 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jul/91 Lead
Roget 23/Jun/91 Solo rpt
Hidden 12/May/91 2nd dog
goi.ashmore 11/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with Phil Bent
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 2nd
with Steve Williams
clark alston ?/Jan/91 Solo
with Nick White
steveriley ??/1991 Lead
with Adrian
Hidden 30/Jun/90 Lead
lithos ?/May/90 2nd O/S
with martin brown
Neil R 30/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Richard W
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 04/Oct/89 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/89 Lead rpt
phardman 03/Jun/89 Solo O/S
with John Lloyd
Hidden 25/Jan/89 2nd
Roget ??/1989 2nd O/S
with jim
Hidden ?/Sep/88 Lead O/S
tapley 21/Aug/88 2nd
Stoney Boy 22/May/88 Lead O/S
with Neil Binns
ukb & bmc shark 27/Sep/87 Solo
Neil McA 13/Sep/87 Solo rpt
sadams ?/Sep/87 Solo
with Guy Townsend
Hidden 01/Jul/87 Lead
Mike Owen 18/May/87 Solo rpt
Rob Davies 16/May/87 2nd
Neil McA 10/May/87 Solo rpt
Neil McA 28/Feb/87 Solo
Neil McA 15/Nov/86 Solo rpt
Neil McA 04/Aug/86 2nd rpt
with Jim Dockery
John Marsland 19/Jul/86 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
mike bridges 31/Aug/85 TR O/S
KRB 31/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Neil Gregory
Hidden 03/Jun/85 Lead
Hidden 29/May/85 Lead
DanW ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Solo
Paul Clarke ??/1985 Lead
with FMC
TonyF 01/Sep/84 Solo
with Tony Cox
Hidden 14/Apr/84 Lead
stp 03/Mar/84 Solo O/S

Tricky start and middle. A definitive grit E1 perhaps.

Steve Lewis 19/Nov/83 Lead O/S
with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
Mark Kemball 04/May/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
Dave Musgrove 23/Oct/82 -
Andy Fielding ??/1982 2nd
with Steve Hartland
Neil McA 14/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/81 Lead O/S
duncan ?/Nov/80 Solo O/S
Mike Owen 25/Aug/80 Lead O/S
with Dave Ellison, Elaine Watson
Mike Owen 25/Aug/80 Solo rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/80 Lead
mark-abz 06/Apr/80 TR
with Mick D
Mark Kemball 01/Mar/80 Solo
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Solo
andy gittins ??/1979 -
petemeads ??/1976 Lead

Used to do the start as a party-piece, could not make any sense of it in 2015, nearly 40 years later!

Canyak ??/1973 -
clanger ??/1972 -
Hidden 03/Oct/65 TR
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 150
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 149
Votes cast 118
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set