UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
The steep crack in the open corner is awkward to start (easiest on the right) then gives fine sustained bridging and laybacking. Protection is good throughout. © Rockfax

FA. Herbert Hartley 1928.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 100 Stanage stars , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Adele & Dave , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , York University Students path to greatness , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 30 Stars at Stanage , 50 more great HS routes , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , The Wishlist Challenge , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Diffage Comp , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Morgan's List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stanley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Bit bold down the bottom without a big (5) cam.
Show beta
βeta: Bit bold down the bottom without a big (5) cam.
cragtyke 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Easiest start is up the crack, large cam for protection then a quick layback.
Show beta
βeta: Easiest start is up the crack, large cam for protection then a quick layback.
springfall2008 1 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The bottom is hard to protect but there is a nut just at the very bottom of the first flake.
Show beta
βeta: The bottom is hard to protect but there is a nut just at the very bottom of the first flake.
Steve John B 25 Sep, 2009 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable laybacking
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable laybacking
Dominion 24 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Beatiful moves, good route, well worth the 3 stars. Awkward start, yes, but it wouldn't be HS without it... And on a dry September day, the friction was perfect!
βeta?
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βeta: Beatiful moves, good route, well worth the 3 stars. Awkward start, yes, but it wouldn't be HS without it... And on a dry September day, the friction was perfect!
Si dH 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Agree wit hall, a very nice route. I bridged it all the way with one slight layback to stop me falling off near the top. Start is delicate, I came in from the right, starting right up the crack looked nails
Show beta
βeta: Agree wit hall, a very nice route. I bridged it all the way with one slight layback to stop me falling off near the top. Start is delicate, I came in from the right, starting right up the crack looked nails
Gripped 5 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A deserted Stanage, a sunset and April Crack; a fantastic finish to the evening.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A deserted Stanage, a sunset and April Crack; a fantastic finish to the evening.
leon 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: tricky start. nice bridging and laybacking as you move up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: tricky start. nice bridging and laybacking as you move up.
LakesWinter 22 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The top is miles easier than it looks
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top is miles easier than it looks

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High 4c
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Manchester Buttress

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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