Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand crack in the recess. OK - though avoiding the previous route completely can be problematic. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Brayshaw 1957

umbungowine 09/Oct Lead RP
SteveJCox 05/Aug Lead O/S
Andrew Holden 05/Aug 2nd
Ben Bransby 30/Jul Solo
Bryan M 26/Jul 2nd

A bit of beast, harder than Leaning Buttress Gully

with Murilo
Cheryl 18/Jul Lead dog
with zoe155
Andypeak 17/Jul 2nd
gaz3212 17/Jul Lead O/S
adam clarke 17/Jun TR O/S

TR solo

magd3026 03/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 03/Jun AltLd dnf
Hidden 26/May 2nd O/S
samkat 26/May -
with NinaR
Jim Walton 24/May Lead
cragsman9000 11/May Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden 29/Apr 2nd O/S
Pete Randall 29/Apr Lead O/S
with Albie
Hidden 31/Mar Lead O/S
quickdrawmcraw 25/Mar Lead O/S
with shoaib
GaborS 30/Oct/16 Lead

Very wet and slimy. It was a bit of a struggle, but the exit move was actually a lot more positive that it first looked.

with Anne
pete1993 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S

shame its only one short sequence really, good fun though, sinker jams and powerful moves

buxtoncoffeelover 17/Sep/16 Lead

A little strenuous jamming & pulling out & round the overhang. Grubby, but at least it was dry today

with Silve
Mark Stevenson 24/May/16 Lead O/S
with Malcolm Max Streeton
Pixie-Andy 07/May/16 2nd O/S

We took the alternative finish with the slightly committing wild swing out, onto Leaning Buttress Direct.

Angeline 07/May/16 2nd dog

Fell twice on the overhang. After sacrificing sufficient blood, finished with the step out onto the arête.

with Pixie
Nick1812P 10/Apr/16 Solo O/S

desperate and somewhat eliminate, a poor man's Unprintable. also loose blocks in the upper gully/chimney.

MrFantastic 23/Feb/16 Solo O/S
Caitlin 11/Oct/15 2nd
Andypeak 30/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
MartinW92 16/Aug/15 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Rembrandt 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
BTphonehome 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Cass
Mike W 21/Jun/15 2nd
with Dogwood
Dogwood 21/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Bailed and used the left crack. Went out right onto leaning buttress after.

keitht 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Desperately hard moves over the overhang if done purely on the right. Very well protected. So pumpy for a few moves! There is a very loose large block in the gully above which can easily be avoided.

with Dave Lomas
Hidden 10/May/15 2nd O/S
khalidq 10/May/15 Lead RP

Second attempt and I just made it. Really hard figuring this one out. Exhausting.

craig.england1 ??/2015 Lead
abtibbs 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

One move wonder

with Jake
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead
icantthinkrightnow 14/Sep/14 Lead
morganator 18/Aug/14 Solo O/S
deacondeacon 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mol 09/Aug/14 2nd
with Jesse
the power 04/Mar/14 2nd O/S


with rob
dr_botnik 04/Mar/14 Lead dog
joem 23/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt e
partz 23/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Found it nails! Pulled round the lip on third attempt and had to fight my feet slipping on some green. Really powerful, elimnated the LHS entirely. Pitched after the overhang, brought Henry, Adam and Joe up as Leah couldn't get the move. Joe lead a second pitch.

adam6509 23/Feb/14 AltLd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Tom Downes 05/Oct/13 Lead
Amy Horton 05/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/13 2nd
john max 20/Sep/13 Lead
danny269 19/Aug/13 Lead
with Keir
victim of mathematics 17/May/13 Lead O/S

Not sure how this is independent of Leaning Buttress Gully, unless you're meant to avoid bridging, in which case it's certainly harder than VS. Good fun all the same.

with Jaime
CKegan 26/Apr/13 2nd
with neil
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead dnf
gcandlin 20/Apr/13 2nd

Harder than I remember

with terry lines
pie_eater_pete 03/Mar/13 Solo O/S
with bwestwood
ianar.davis 16/Nov/12 2nd O/S
brownie mike 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
khalidq 03/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Started raining and I didn't feel strong enough to pull out and over the roof.

Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead
john max 04/Sep/12 2nd
john_ni 04/Sep/12 Lead

John backed down from overhang; made the move on second attempt

shouter 09/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/12 Lead dnf
steve-grigg 25/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Scott Anderson ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
TCarrick 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
steve-grigg 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
treg 10/Sep/11 2nd

Seconded Ben after stepping down from the lead.

francesanncavanagh 17/Aug/11 2nd

cool little overhang :)

with Dave Bryant, Matt Hale
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
philippe ?/Aug/11 Lead
1906johns 20/Jul/11 -
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Blurgy319 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

New guidebook gives 5a which seems fair, shame it's all over after the one move, still gets a star though

with Peter Williams
Gambit 21/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Barney
Hidden 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Ragnaar 15/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Martin took a fall on this, and stopped just short of the floor. Couldn't retrieve the wire so a number 4 is now in-situ! I am tall and found the move ok.

with martin hirons
AsleepOnBelay 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Better than it looks, tough moves to get out from under the block for a VS.

with Steve PCC
gb83 04/May/11 Lead dnf

fell moving through the roof. lowered and climbed leaning buttress gully.

with Rob Mitchell
mikehenesy 20/Apr/11 Lead dog

Bugger me, what a struggle and tutoring Paul in correct belaying technique at the same time! First route of the day, what a warm up.

with Paul Smith
Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd O/S
RKernan 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
James_D 12/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Not a good warm up!

with Dave
Davebryant ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Matt Hale, Fran Cavanagh
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead dnf
JDDD 30/May/10 Lead
Shad 30/May/10 2nd
with Steve, Jon
Hidden 21/May/10 2nd dog
mark4344 21/May/10 Lead
with andreas and matt, Andreas, Matt Payne, Nick Coles
Anthony Allsopp 09/May/10 Lead O/S

Really neat moves round the overhang but shame it's a one move wonder!

with Richard Wilkinson
Richard G Wilkinson 09/May/10 2nd O/S
with Anthony Allsopp
craig naylor 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 23/Mar/10 Lead rpt

Last done as a youth! Tiring...

with Guido
Hidden 23/Mar/10 -
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
RossG ??/2010 -
mattshort 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S
frume 21/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Very hard getting past the overhang, I had to down climb, rest and do it the second time. The rest of the climb was firly easy.

with Saff
howlingbaboon 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/09 2nd
gcandlin 22/Aug/09 Lead β

Hard and scary to pull over the roof.

with Fat climber
Fatclimber 22/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Could not get past the roof

Brown 10/Jul/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
miastacey ?/May/09 2nd
with Heather Clarke
tinyali 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Tim Webber
keith leonard ??/2009 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
SteveM 15/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Kat
kitkat78 15/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with SteveM
Graeme Hammond 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Barra
Fat Tim 01/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Neil D 12/Jun/08 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jun/08 2nd O/S
tanssop 04/Jun/08 2nd dog

loud swearing allowed on this route I reckon

with Mark
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Franco Cookson OLD 04/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Franco Cookson OLD 31/May/08 Solo O/S
Kit Gillibrand 31/May/08 2nd dog

Terrible climb. Not worth the effort.

with Roly Chuter
Rollo 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Kit
adam coxsell ?/May/08 2nd
mikeyg 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S
gnc760 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Simon Hazelwood
Hidden ??/2008 -
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
sdht ??/2008 -
Hidden 15/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Lizzy Andrew 15/Nov/07 2nd
rayash 23/Oct/07 2nd
with steveluco
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/07 Lead O/S
Mutl3y 26/Apr/07 2nd
with Tony
Hidden 26/Apr/07 Lead O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Nicos 29/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with solo
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Neil Adams ??/2006 -
ukb & bmc shark 29/Oct/05 Solo rpt
reg_measures ?/Oct/05 2nd O/S
with Ralph
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Stig 20/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
mikeyjbs 23/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with lachie, davina budd
Martin Bennett 25/Mar/05 -
with MT
ChrisBrooke 12/Jun/04 2nd
with John Inkpen
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
rapidrich 29/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Coni
Russell Flynn 14/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Adi Hooper ??/1999 Lead
with Sherborne Adventure Group
Hidden ??/1996 -
RossG123 ??/1996 Solo
nigehughes ?/Jul/95 AltLd
with Pete Kay
Chris Ellis 20/Aug/94 Lead

Both led

with Rachel Nicolson
babymoac 13/Jul/91 2nd
with Sid
Andy Say 19/Nov/88 Solo
Dave Musgrove 22/May/86 -
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Ian Clare ??/1985 -
Rob Davies 06/May/84 2nd
with Tony Welsh
charlesmfrench 11/Jun/83 2nd O/S
Ian Clare ??/1982 -
Andy Fielding ??/1979 2nd
Hidden ?/May/77 -
Hidden 17/Nov/74 2nd
Nigel Bond 22/Jun/73 2nd
with Andy Hodges
Canyak ??/1973 -
greenbuoy 22/Aug/71 2nd
with Terry Taylor
Hidden 28/Apr/68 2nd
mikej 03/Jul/67 Lead
with Geoff Williams
Hidden 03/Oct/65 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/65 Lead
Hidden 22/May/65 Lead
Hidden 01/May/65 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/65 Lead
Hidden 25/Apr/65 Lead
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 28
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set