UKC

Restricted Access

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.

Other restricted St Bees areas:

  • St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
  • St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path

Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.

At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

Rockfax Description
The first bolt line is a good pitch that is unfortunately prone to being very sandy and will need a clean. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Top section of this climb has become a sandy beach, lower off second top bolt if you're brave.

Feedback

User Date Notes
x12dan34 12 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bolts continue upwards after aparant lower off (one with tat) rarely travelled, green.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bolts continue upwards after aparant lower off (one with tat) rarely travelled, green.

Logged Ascents

23 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Bees Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 2 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Coup-de-Grace

Grade: 6b ***
(Bram Crag Quarry)

Loading Notifications...