UKC

Restricted Access

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.

Other restricted St Bees areas:

  • St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
  • St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path

Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.

At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

Rockfax Description
Another tough mission that starts at the thin flake just right of the the shallow rib © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
BarwoodP 4 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: nails, easily a 6c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nails, easily a 6c
TommyK 12 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Guide shows finish at around the left corner from the last staple. Damp day but seems hard for 6a+
Show beta
βeta: Guide shows finish at around the left corner from the last staple. Damp day but seems hard for 6a+
Cake 20 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A low cam was useful to prevent decking before second bolt. 5+ in Wired Guide, which is wrong
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A low cam was useful to prevent decking before second bolt. 5+ in Wired Guide, which is wrong

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Bees Head

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Trooping the Colours

Grade: 6a+ ***
(High Fell Quarry)

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