Rockfax Description
Start in the unsavoury pit and gain the shallow left-facing groove which is climbed boldly to a tricky exit and runners. Continue up the final wall, trending rightwards on better holds. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Brown star climbs.

myrddinmuse 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S

'interesting' route. Took ages to figure out the rockover at the start onto the step, then dawdled at the topout for yonks before doing a stupid double horizontal pinch for an unprotected top out.. the kind of fun that's fun in hindsight.

with Adam Vaughan
AdamFreeman 30/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Francis
pawel suhy 08/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 08/Jul/16 Lead O/S
john max 08/Jul/16 Lead
jonhowson 08/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Helen Boothman 23/Jun/16 2nd
with Andy P
Alex 74 18/Jun/16 2nd
with Ian c
admackie 27/May/16 Lead

scary ish

with kev
Calum Wadsworth 26/May/16 Lead O/S

Good, Being tall helps! probably just slightly sketchy VS if you are 6"2.

with Emma
onlyfoddington 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Quite easy if you are tallish.

with Yinners
Yinners 08/May/16 2nd β


with David
tedburt 08/May/16 Lead O/S
bigdrew 22/Apr/16 Solo O/S
Andrew Barker 20/Apr/16 Solo O/S

I could just reach the good hold from the ledge. Would be tougher and scarier for anyone who can't reach it.

planetmarshall 19/Apr/16 Lead O/S
dom94 17/Apr/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/16 2nd rpt
Roberttaylor 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
allyrocke 25/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
stev1e.wilso 01/Nov/15 TR O/S
with Simon
TobyA 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with SimonW
Capricorn One 24/Sep/15 Lead

More worrying than it should have been. The wind and failing light probably didn't help.

with JasonK, Nick PCC
JasonK 24/Sep/15 2nd
remus 05/Sep/15 Sent rpt
with Jo Trendell, Dan Hostford, Alun Freem
Alex 74 10/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Ian c
nick ferro 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Pete_Frost 08/Aug/15 Solo O/S
scarmichael 30/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/15 2nd
cragsman9000 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Neil
bob_cbr 23/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Dave Garnett 09/Jul/15 2nd
AielSavage 09/Jul/15 Lead
Rich Malcolm 29/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Dave Draycott, Darren Pallett
Katsmiff 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Had to pull off a very unsafe move at the top of the flake. Stepping up on to a none existence foothold to try and grab the ledge, where if I had fallen backwards would have been a nasty drop with no gear, me being 5,4", whereas my partner being taller just grabbed the ledge without any dangerous manoeuvres having to be done.

with Simon Clark
hervenuttall ?/Jun/15 Solo O/S
luke glaister 04/May/15 2nd O/S
with dan., casey johns
casey johns 04/May/15 Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 20/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead
GermanAlex 06/Dec/14 2nd O/S

There is gear, but the route does feature at least one quite commiting move, especially for the short. The start is surely harder than 4c.

Mike505 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Jake Young 29/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Bryan M 27/Sep/14 -
robblowen 24/Sep/14 TR O/S

Top rope solo.

kyaizawa 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
ben_crofts 05/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
the power 27/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with rob
benthomas.online 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S

A wet and windy day!

with Robin Edwards
PaulTanton 24/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Hardcore Pat 15/Jul/14 Solo rpt
mike8331 09/Jul/14 Lead
Chris Craggs 07/Jul/14 2nd

One bold move at top of scoop

with Colin Binks
AndyPagett 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
the power 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Ewan Russell 22/Jun/14 Solo O/S
with Myself!
john_ni 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S
john max 03/Jun/14 2nd
simontyrrell 28/May/14 Lead
Fat Tim 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Climbed on mark and fidels gear, felt sketchy right up until Vic handed me a cam from the top.

marcduhig 04/May/14 Solo O/S
WillDoyle 02/May/14 Solo
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead O/S
Alpenglow 23/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Balancey and run-out.

with Phil D
phildawson 23/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tebs 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Made a right cock up on this, climbed past the awkward exit to the groove thinking there'd be gear in the breaks above. There wasn't. Spent a while on the slopey breaks looking for gear and considering calling for a rescue! What a tit. Found a good rp in the end. Easy moves, but a long way off the deck on slightly lichenous slopey breaks. A few spectators were concerned. My apologies!

with Adam
Hidden 13/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Jimbo C 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Nice line and the interest continues after the bold crux.

with Jon, Spiros
jonhowson 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Jimbo
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Matthew Ferrier 17/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Ben, Nick Priestley
Nick1812P 17/Dec/13 Solo O/S
with Ben Ochner, Matt
the power 08/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Andy, rob
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
edd rab 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with adrian scott
the power 12/Sep/13 Solo rpt

On shunt

KiaranR 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with CJ Carter
Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
chikadi 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S

first hvs :) some tricky moves but one I want to lead!

freudy_love 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Macpherson
jshields 19/Jun/13 Lead

First lead early 90s.

with Paul Tretheway, Ed James
pog100 16/Jun/13 2nd
with Mike Mortimer
mic_b 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Heidi
Colin3859 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 01/Jun/13 -
with Cormac
Hidden 01/Jun/13 TR
colin milton 31/May/13 Lead
with colin D
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
domskezz 01/May/13 Lead O/S
with Si
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
giuly 20/Apr/13 2nd
with Neil Shephard, Chris Saunders
dr_botnik 18/Feb/13 Lead O/S

bit of a deck potential if you cant reach cam slots from shelf

the power 18/Feb/13 2nd
with rob
Mike W 04/Oct/12 Solo O/S
ardzeiem 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Dez
roberto18 01/Aug/12 Solo
migs493 21/Jul/12 2nd β

HVS Challenge - Very long reach and big cams required.

with LO
Davey569 21/Jul/12 Lead β
dannyboy83 14/Jul/12 Solo O/S
adam carless 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S

apparently I've seconded this before, but have no memory of it. Very worrying move up to the top of the groove (crucial foothold felt very greasy/polished). Lovely apart from that though.

with Arctic Jen
mjeffery 27/Jun/12 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 17/Jun/12 Lead

Lead on preplaced gear after partners ascent

ianstevens 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
tomasj27 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 21/May/12 2nd
with Dave Dewhurst, Anne Daykin, Bern Hardman
Hidden 21/May/12 2nd
Falko 23/Mar/12 Lead rpt

This route still tries your bottle - even though I had the first wire racked and ready to go!

with Les Deakin
Les Deakin 23/Mar/12 2nd
with Falko Rech
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S

A little bold. It's nice to be tall...

with Colin Angus
Hidden 05/Mar/12 2nd
victim of mathematics 02/Mar/12 2nd O/S
fatbuoybazza 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with DaveP
Wayne S ??/2012 2nd
akhughes ??/2012 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 26/Oct/11 AltLd
with Dale, Viv
joermann 25/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 25/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
JonBrown 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Quiche
Hidden 29/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/11 2nd rpt
mark20 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Cake 14/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Matt
al123 24/Aug/11 Solo
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Solo rpt
al123 13/Aug/11 Solo rpt

not bad at all

cmsg 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Llewelyn Thomas
mick1jones 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Rob led

with Rob Gray, Alex Wellings
Ardo 21/Jul/11 TR O/S
with Tim
Hidden 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 08/May/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
outtathaway ?/May/11 Lead O/S
rich_hw 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with James
mikej 08/Apr/11 2nd
with Rick Naylor
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 07/Apr/11 2nd rpt

as good as i remembered, nice climb :)

d_evo20 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with James Brownhill
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead
galpinos 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Ben T
w.pettet-smith ?/Mar/11 Solo


CharlieMack 21/Jan/11 2nd O/S
with David
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
tri-nitro-tuolumne 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Rich Guest
Hidden 07/Oct/10 2nd O/S
disturbed_one51 04/Sep/10 Lead
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 04/Sep/10 2nd
haydng 29/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Hannah
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/10 2nd
tompilgrem 23/Aug/10 TR O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 23/Aug/10 TR O/S

Damp and greasy so we roped it- would still be a bold lead in dry conditions.

with Bob/Tom
wrapped in bacon 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Rob
al123 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Cake 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Angus
jmjw 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ben T
Hidden 26/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Cheshire Dave ?/Jun/10 Lead
with Paul
Chris the Tall 18/May/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead dnf
simeclimb68 15/May/10 Lead O/S
richyclimb 15/May/10 2nd
Chris_barr 09/May/10 Lead O/S

Bold. As. Fuck

with Mike
Falko 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S

If you avoid the surrounding boulders then the start is harder than 4c.

with Chris, Dean, Simon
remus 25/Apr/10 Solo O/S

Enjoyable climbing, especially the stretch for the good holds.

Harry Holmes 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
rustyclimber91 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Liam Ingram 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Pauline
simonp ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Matt Bennett 09/Mar/10 Solo O/S
with Sam Corbett
sam corbett ?/Mar/10 Solo
Hidden 20/Feb/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Feb/10 2nd dnf
Brannock 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Suprisingly hard, only one decent bit of gear which was well over half way up.

Danny ??/2010 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
chris552303 ??/2010 Lead
RossG ??/2010 -
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
RM199 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Ben Taggart-Ryan ??/2010 Lead O/S
drysori ??/2010 Lead
ASchwirtz 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S
aesherwin 15/Oct/09 TR O/S
Ram MkiV 17/Sep/09 Solo O/S

nice line

with Al
Ben Watts 12/Sep/09 2nd
with Kyle Rance
cksrealm 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with GMC
Kyle Rance 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
mack1 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with dan lancaster
Mr Wild 27/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/09 Solo
Dave Rumney 28/Jun/09 2nd
with Sean Roberts
masa-alpin 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Pretty scary.

with Matt H, Bonnie
Steve Waters, Mynydd 18/Apr/09 Lead
mtempest 18/Apr/09 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
howlingbaboon 17/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Bob 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Steady away but would be interesting for the short...

with M. Bullough & S. Brock
JDDD 29/Mar/09 Lead

Lovely climb. Once stood on the ledge you can reach the nice holds if you are 6' or over! Not that the last section is any easier.

Alan James - UKC and UKH 01/Mar/09 Solo
Shad ?/Mar/09 2nd
kingholmesy ??/2009 Solo O/S
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Reds 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
The Bad Cough 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/08 TR O/S
Graeme Hammond 28/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with Barra
Brown 08/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Jeronimo 23/Jul/08 2nd O/S

not much protection, the pit was full of midges...

Benrj 23/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with jay mowat
Mattyk 21/Jul/08 Solo O/S

Scarer than anticipated, a tricky crux move high up. which is protectable despite what the grade told me.

Shauna 03/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Rayash
rayash 03/Jul/08 Lead

not for the short

with shauna
maybe_si 08/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Franco Cookson OLD 04/Jun/08 Solo O/S
elephant0907 22/May/08 TR O/S
Stig 15/May/08 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/08 Solo
Chris the Tall 17/Feb/08 Solo rpt
IanJackson ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
AJ007 05/Oct/07 Solo
Chris the Tall 27/Aug/07 Solo rpt
Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead
Reaver2k 20/May/07 2nd O/S

Enjoyable! Tricky first moves for feet, thugged it! Think it was ok for 4c but limited on the protection! Dangerous decking possibilties! Thin crack is quite awkward then a scary (I imagine for leader?) sloping holds, but technically very easy.

with Mike Mortimer
Jim Vach 19/May/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/May/07 2nd β
Laurence Everitt 10/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rosie Henstock 10/Apr/07 2nd
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Graeme Hammond 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
tom.ireson 21/Oct/06 TR O/S
baldcoder 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
bobette 24/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with mike
Hidden 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Si Croft 24/Jun/06 2nd
with JH
ukb shark 29/Mar/06 Solo
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Nicos 26/Sep/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 17/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Alex Mason ?/Feb/05 Lead

after mark fell off and sprained his ankle guess who steps up to do it, yup me! not bad quite dangerous.

with keith poskitt, rob lonsdale, andy g
Martin Bennett 14/Nov/04 -
with Jim The B, NickH
Martin Bennett 14/Nov/04 -
with Jim The B, NickH
Hidden 24/Jul/04 Lead O/S
darren1 04/Jun/04 -
Hidden 31/May/04 2nd
Hidden 24/May/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/May/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/04 TR O/S
M_W_Court 06/Dec/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/03 Lead
dan gibson 16/Sep/03 Solo rpt
dan gibson 15/Sep/03 Solo rpt
cem 08/Jun/03 2nd
James B 26/Apr/03 -
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
Hidden 23/Feb/03 Solo
duncan 06/Nov/02 Solo O/S
with Hugo Glover
PenJD 07/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Tony Heron
Hidden 27/May/02 Solo O/S
chris sm 12/May/02 Solo O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/02 Lead
John Kettle ??/2002 Lead
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 -
Hidden 30/Jun/01 Lead
Goody 13/May/01 2nd O/S
martroberts 07/May/01 Lead O/S

Quite worrying

Trobbo 23/Sep/00 2nd
with mike sissons
Martin Bennett 23/Sep/00 -
with MT, MD
goi.ashmore 19/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
rc ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 -
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/99 Solo rpt
adam carless ?/Jun/99 2nd O/S
with someone from CUMC
Hidden 03/May/99 2nd O/S
cragspud ??/1999 Lead O/S
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Hidden 12/Aug/98 Solo rpt
CrashMat Rob 09/Aug/98 Lead O/S

took wrong line to finish, hard.

with Nicky
Hidden 15/Sep/97 2nd O/S
Mark Riley 13/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 -
RossG123 ??/1996 Solo
John Southworth 16/Jul/95 Solo O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Harry
Hidden 19/Sep/92 Solo O/S
NorthernRock ?/Sep/92 Lead
Neil R 25/Aug/92 Lead
with Sharon
andybirtwistle 25/Jul/92 Solo
Roget 23/Jun/91 Solo O/S
kato'sdad ?/Mar/91 Lead
leathers ??/1991 -
NickJH ?/Jul/90 Solo
Stoney Boy 21/Jun/90 Solo O/S
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
surfbish ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Andy Say 19/Nov/88 Solo
steve taylor ?/Jun/88 Solo
with stumpy
NeilGriffiths ??/1988 -
Rob Davies 25/Apr/87 2nd
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
John Marsland 29/May/85 Solo
BrianT ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Gary Renton
philhc ??/1985 -
Hidden 14/Apr/84 Solo
stp 07/Aug/83 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 11/Jun/83 2nd O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Solo
Andy Fielding ??/1979 2nd
Dave Musgrove 05/Apr/69 -
Hidden 12/Jun/66 Lead
Hidden 04/Apr/65 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 58
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set