From the third step of Cummeenoughter climb up the broken ground to the base of the narrow section of Curved Gully. The ridge starts from here. Stick as much as possible to the crest. You should be able to see into the gully most of the way. Three or four long pitches or short pitches if you require. A tough Grade IV winter route.

1. (40m) Start at a broken block (it’s fairly obvious). If you can’t find the start then maybe stick to hillwalking. The hardest moves are at the start (Diff). The rest of the pitch is easier scrambling. Belay under an obvious overhang.

2. (40m) Tackle the overhang on the right and continue up, keeping close to the gully. Head straight up a short, steep lighter coloured wall on good holds (V. Diff/Severe). Belay above this at a cracked block.

3. (30m) Head up the central line on the obvious buttress above (Severe). Climb the next buttress with the small pillar below on its left. Belay on top of this buttress.

4. (45m) Continue up to a nice short wall with excellent gear and holds (Severe). The final crux is on a steep ledgy wall above, the best moves being last (Severe/Hard Severe). Be careful with the rock.

5. (150m) Scramble up the final sections of rock. You may want to stay roped up; it’s steep.

barrington1978 08/Jul -
goatee ??/2012 Solo
Major_Steve 09/Apr/09 Lead rpt
BOOGA ??/2008 Lead
mickd ??/2007 -
Piaras Kerry ?/Apr/05 Lead
2 users have this on their wishlist
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set