350m, 13 pitches.

Rockfax Description
350m. A classic adventure taking a cracking line up the face. The climbing is tough in places and the rock quality diminishes for the final few pitches, so don't take this one lightly.
Start at the top of the snowfield.
Approach - Leave the Index chairlift and go straight uphill, past Aiguille de la Glière - Lower Buttress to reach a vague path leading to the foot of a 30m high tower (the Gendarme Wehrlin). Go around this to the left (loose) and then go back above it and continue up until level with the top of the tower, at which point cut across the snow/scree slope to the left. Go over a rounded ridge and across another snow slope before cutting up to a col immediately right of a distinctive finger of rock (the Doigt de la Glière). Descend diagonally down and left for 50m on the far side of the col to reach a 10m long, narrow gully facing rightwards. Go down this and then descend gradually rightwards to reach the Pouce Cwm, which may well be a snowfield all summer but can be dry in late season after a hot spell. Cross this and make directly for your route. Allow 1-2 hours for the approach.
1) 3c. Scramble up to a belay beneath a wall.
2) 5a. Climb the wall and ramp above to belay on a small ledge.
3) 4b. Step right and climb easily to belay beneath steeper ground.
4) 5c. Move up through the overhang and climb the chimney above to belay below and left of a huge sweep of slabs. The route originally went out left here but this option is grassy and unpleasant so ignore anything leading left.
5) 5b. Climb the corner on the left-hand edge of the slabs before moving left at the top to belay above a small overhang.
6) 6a. Head up the right-hand corner-crack from the belay (ignoring the bolt out left in the vegetated crack, which is on the original line) and follow cracks above. Belay in a stunning spot under a large overhang.
7) 5c. Continue straight up towards the overhang and then make a fantastically exposed traverse out left to belay in a niche.
8) 5c. Step left from the belay then drift back right to a small ledge immediately left of another overhang.
9) 4b. Climb the chimney on the right and the slab above.
10) 4b. Move up directly and step right to belay.
11) 4a. Climb the slab up and rightwards from the belay and then come back left to reach a straightforward (but occasionally loose) corner system.
12) 3c. Follow this to the summit.
Descent - From the summit of the Pouce, descend the ridge eastwards in the direction of the Aiguille de la Glière. The first two large towers are passed on the left via a vague path (look out for cairns) around 50m below the towers, which takes in some unpleasant loose ground. Once past the two large towers, stay on the left until the ground steepens. At this point you cut up to the ridge crest and stay on or close to this all the way back to the approach col just next to the Doigt de la Glière. From here, descend the approach route. Allow at least 2 hours from the summit back to the chairlift. The ridge traverse back to the col is loose and exposed in places so don't rush. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A magnificent long route, which is a true classic!
Mainly crack climbing with some superb positions

Pierre Kohlmann+Philippe de saint Armand Jul/1960


ClimberDateStyle
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Jgresh 21/Aug/16 AltLd

Jamie- P3- 4b, P4- 4b, P6- 6a, P8- 5c+. Me- P1- 3b, P2- 5a, P5- 5c, P7- 5c+, P9- 4b, P10- 4b. Amazing route but a lengthy walk in and difficult route finding at the start and finish.

with Jamie Ogilvie, Michael Macdonald
Hidden 19/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul/16 AltLd dnf
hlegge 07/Aug/15 AltLd dnf

bailed after 5th pitch. much longer walk in than expected and climbing as a three, simply were not going to finish in time for last lift.

with Rebecca Murray
Hidden 02/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
davkeo ?/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Had to ab off after crux as partner was bolloxed. He tried to Prussik up to me but his grip was gone. Disappointed not to finish especially after climbing the 6a pitch which was totally overgrown and as a result felt harder than 6b. Mayb 6c. Hardest pitch iv climbed.

danfitz 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Pete Houghton
Pete Houghton 10/Jul/14 AltLd

The longer 6a pitch on the left is a bit grassy. Recommend traversing to the 5c+ on the right instead, or bringing a trowel. Superb climbing until the last 2/3 pitches - chossy and forgettable. Words and pictures from an enjoyable, though slightly-longer than anticipated, day out: https://altitudinalnoodles.com/2014/07/18/le-pouce-voie-des-francais/

Hidden 25/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
roberto18 25/Aug/11 AltLd

A great climb, 3hrs to get to the base of the route, not 1hr 30min like the guide book suggests. Fairly tough as well maybe E2.

with Conor Cussell, Tom Nickols
Lunar25 10/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Approach took far longer than the guidebook says, had an absolute epic, 32 hours on the mountain, the last 15-20 hours with no food or water. Still enjoyed ourselves thoroughly though :D Lead 6a and 5c+ pitches.

with Stacy Oliver, Ed Feldman
Hidden 09/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
noskki 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Ben Briggs ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Luca
nickdonohue 27/Jun/10 AltLd

Great climbing and superb feeling of being in a 'sea of rock'. Be careful of knocking loose stuff from the very top (easier) pitches.

with Benoit Rosset
Hidden ?/Jul/96 AltLd
bandersnatch ??/1996 Lead
with Mairi B
Hidden 22/Aug/92 AltLd
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