Rockfax Description
The thin crack is protectable but a surprising struggle. Fat fingers do not help at all. © Rockfax

FA. Gerry Rogan 1964

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, To Goliath's Groove and beyond.

Hidden 14/Oct Lead dnf
KAckroyd 08/Oct Lead O/S

Almost pumped myself out of contention below the crux looking for an alternative to the crack; fingers couldn't fit! A big move past the crux got me through though.

with Emma
harold walmsley 26/Sep 2nd

Seemed hard and slippery today. Me or the crag?

with Chris Calow
Elizabeth Allen 14/Aug 2nd dog

Hilariously difficult - even on second. Spent ages getting pumped trying to get the nut Luke had fallen on out then huffed and puffed up the rest without an ounce of grace. Got to the top to find a party of school kids who've probably learned some new bad words.

with Luke
Luke90 14/Aug Lead G/U
with Liz
Hidden 30/Jul 2nd dog
peterhubbard 30/Jul Lead
with Conrad
AF Webb 07/Jul 2nd dog
Will Webb 07/Jul Lead
with Alex
Tom Redwood 01/Jul Lead dnf
tonto169 01/Jul -
Hidden 28/May 2nd dog
Hidden 24/May Solo O/S
amccann 22/May Solo rpt
Hidden 05/May Solo rpt
will_lake 09/Apr Lead dnf

Slipped on the crux, and had a tantrum

with Naomi
tebs 12/Mar Lead O/S
with Tim
jcdavy 12/Mar 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Mar Lead β
9fingerjon 12/Mar 2nd O/S
with Matt
Hidden 12/Mar Lead dog
Droyd 02/Nov/16 Lead G/U

Fell going for the finger lock, got it second go. Good fun.

with Sam
sheelba 02/Nov/16 2nd
with David
RM199 21/Oct/16 Lead dog

2nd try. What a bugga! Need yet another go

loonylovegood93 21/Oct/16 2nd dog
James Oakes 09/Oct/16 Solo O/S
guy127917 01/Oct/16 Lead dnf
with Jen
Jen Jones 01/Oct/16 TR dnf
alexjf 22/Sep/16 2nd dnf

no way!

with max
max_chan 22/Sep/16 Lead dog

With a rest before the crux. Spent too long putting gear in. Shame as it eases after that. Really good little route.

HarryBowyer 11/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Had to start it 3 times before getting up in one go

with Helen Mort
Hidden 05/Aug/16 TR O/S
George Killaspy 24/Jul/16 Lead

HVS?! Get tae f**K.

with Rob Hopes
Ban1 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Really pumpy and awkward gear placement

with Mark
Hidden 21/Jun/16 Solo dnf
Alex Handley 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Great fun

with LeeRoy
Hidden 20/May/16 Lead rpt
besiix 06/May/16 2nd dog
JOHNB-W 06/May/16 -
loco wilko ?/May/16 Lead O/S
with clare wilkins
greedo 10/Apr/16 Lead dog

Climbed with attrition. Solid 5b all the way.

with Jason porter
Andy Moles 07/Apr/16 Solo
thejunglist 07/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Timmy G
Hidden 02/Apr/16 2nd dog
The old James turnbull 16/Mar/16 -
Hidden 11/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 20/Oct/15 Lead
Hidden 19/Oct/15 Lead dog
Jack93 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Good fun! Entertaining climbing using a shuffling knee bar to get through the crux

with Remy Veness
charley 20/Aug/15 Solo O/S

Brilliant climb. Tried soloing it earlier on in the year but couldn't commit to the crux, was planning on coming back with gear. Went okay today, managed the crux no problem but felt fairly tough & although the holds are good at the top it was a pretty gripping solo.

Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead
dr_botnik 23/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Harder than it looked from the ground. Ha ha.

with ken
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead
Vincej 19/Jul/15 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd dnf
Allan Watson 20/Jun/15 2nd
with Michael Kurach
PeteWilson 07/Jun/15 Lead
with mark, James
Louishmouis 05/Jun/15 Solo O/S
stratandrew 10/May/15 2nd
MatthewH 10/May/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/May/15 2nd
shaunhumphreys 20/Apr/15 Lead rpt

wasnt psyched for much else so thought id re do this and not be such a punter!

harry_lewis 20/Apr/15 Solo O/S

fairly gripping solo

SeanSmith 19/Apr/15 TR O/S

Easy top rope but would have felt sketchy to lead

shaunhumphreys 13/Apr/15 Lead dog

Thought i was getting somewhere with the grit... apparently not! got fully shat on by this! time to get on some other rock i think!

with Dawn
Dawn_K_B 13/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead dog
FlavioL1989 01/Mar/15 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 01/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Flavio, Rob
Hidden 06/Nov/14 Solo O/S
WillDoyle 04/Nov/14 Solo O/S
Teappleby 26/Oct/14 Solo

fun, was interesting climbing all the way.

Nick1812P 14/Sep/14 Solo rpt

still hard.

with Pete
Matt Groom 30/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf
rockman 04/Jul/14 2nd

Found it hard 44 years ago when it was VS and it is still desperate now.

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jun/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd dog
fatbuoybazza 05/May/14 Lead rpt
with Grimbo, Jon
Jonny M 05/May/14 TR dog
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mjeffery 10/Sep/13 Lead G/U

1 fall. got it second go.

Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead dnf
fabricio 14/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Michael-H
mapperley samurai 06/Jul/13 TR
with Rosa Villaseca, John Cook
lanc23 12/Jun/13 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Jun/13 Lead
benkelsey 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Slightly pumpy. laced like a shoe though. had to ab for (allll) the gear, since jake was broken, everywhere, and sacked it off with split tips, dodgy knee and groin.

nick ferro 16/Mar/13 2nd
g1m147 16/Dec/12 Lead
with Wayne s
Wayne S 16/Dec/12 2nd O/S
with Gary
john lynch 16/Oct/12 Solo O/S
daviesp2 13/Oct/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
RM199 09/Oct/12 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Cake 24/May/12 Solo O/S

Naughty onsight solo. Felt fine

Hidden 15/May/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/May/12 Lead
Whealiebob 15/May/12 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 30/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 30/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Oceanic 20/Apr/12 -
Alex@home 16/Apr/12 2nd rpt

no more than 5b if you do it right

with The Doctor
mattorford 23/Mar/12 Lead

3rd try lucky

Matt Cooke 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Solo
Hidden 17/Jan/12 2nd dog
deacondeacon 17/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd
adam carless 06/Nov/11 Lead RP

Took my first proper lead fall in ages, woo! That'll teach me for trying to use some stylish kneebar, layback and rockover, rather than getting properly stuck into the crack. Applied some MTFU the second time and found it fairly easy (but strenuous) on good hand jams.

Mr. K 30/Oct/11 2nd rpt

Took a couple of goes to work it out, but it seems that facing left is the best way for the tall with fat fingers!

James Oswald 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Nails. Definitely e1?! Fell off the crux then did it after a couple of attempts. Very physical but really good. Nice to fall onto my gear a bit.

Hidden 14/Oct/11 2nd dog
HarryBowyer 14/Oct/11 Lead β
mark20 18/Sep/11 Lead RP

Put gear in the crucial hand hold and ballsed it up. 2nd go GU.

Graeme Hammond 04/Sep/11 Lead rpt

after a hard session down the works this felt really hard!! Previously failed to lead clean 10/May/09 with Thomas Dixon (climb the slanting crack if you think you're hard enough... definatly not hard enough)

with Jim
Jim Slater 04/Sep/11 2nd O/S
LP 24/Aug/11 Lead dog

Hmmm, what's the definition of 'led' again...

Kirill 04/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Kirill 04/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd
fatbuoybazza 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S


busdriver 07/Apr/11 2nd dog

Got well pumped!

Hidden ?/Apr/11 Solo G/U
Lenny 23/Jan/11 TR dnf
with Paul
mwatson ??/2011 -
Nick1812P 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Brown 04/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with Solo
Andrew Barker 04/Oct/10 Solo O/S

Tricky and a bit scary.

with Tom Lyons
Bob 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with G. Macauley
JamesBritton 05/Sep/10 TR dog
with Dimi
angus ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Solo
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead dog
Jimbo C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Lassa
Hidden 25/Jul/10 -
schaff 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Jimbo
KarlH 03/Jul/10 TR

Got it first go. Wouldn't be keen on leading it though!

with Gemma
Zygoticgema 03/Jul/10 TR dnf
with KarlH
Hidden 14/Jun/10 2nd O/S
ben_250 14/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Andrew, Tom
Hidden 14/Jun/10 Lead dog
Pown 12/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/May/10 TR dog
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Solo
duncan 04/Apr/10 2nd
with Johnny Dawes
psychicbread 28/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Max
dashitboarder 28/Mar/10 Lead dnf

Wow doesn't look so tough form the ground!

shaun walby 21/Mar/10 Lead dnf
with Phil West
ShaunD 19/Mar/10 Lead O/S

cold hard bitch. but i did her in the first date.

gazfellows 19/Mar/10 2nd
Woodiee 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S

nothing like an easy warm up on a very cold day - it is suprisingly overhanging... and quite tough! tones of gear thou, but hanging around to place it is costly! packs quite a punch for HVS - if the gear wasnt so plentiful and bomber, would be a tough E1

Ollie B 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with J.Shewring
Oliver Houston 10/Mar/10 Lead dog

tough and squirmy, good lead tho

RossG ??/2010 -
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Solo O/S
disturbed_one51 15/Sep/09 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 15/Sep/09 Lead
James_D 13/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Fell off with the immortal words "its not a jug, sh1t aaaaaa"

with Esther
LardClimber 30/Aug/09 Lead dog
Lisaaa 21/Aug/09 2nd
with Mike Watson
Reaver2k 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely ******* nails for HVS! Laybacked up the first bit, put a decent cam and nut in under the crack bulge (crux) couldn't figure out the move first time, climbed back to the floor, tried laybacking but couldnt get a decent right hand as it was pretty much a fingerlock. Back to the floor, back up, tried again, no luck, back down, back up, then figured out to swap my hands at the bottom, so I had my right hand right down below the bulge, then reached all the way through the bulge to the good hold at the top with my left hand. Swapped round hands, and put hand on the block... CLUNK, it moves... Shat myself, tried putting in gear here there and everywhere, getting pretty pumped. Moved up into the niche and got a poor rest in it by jamming my body using my head and feet and standing up. then tried moving on through pumped out of my mind. Traversed out left, continued trying to put in the wrong gear in the wrong placements over and over getting more and more pumped, got a poor cam in and hauled myself over the top. Most pumped I've ever been, and would not have liked to have fallen! Lucky escape, surely atleast E1?!

matthewjames 21/Aug/09 2nd β
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/09 2nd dog
Hidden 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
markytaylor 26/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead dog
Timo Austino 18/Jun/09 -
JPGR ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Yvette
thomasadixon 10/May/09 2nd rpt

Much harder to second than solo!

with Graeme
Hannah Moulton 22/Apr/09 2nd
with Gav
thomasadixon 21/Apr/09 Solo O/S
evilbree 03/Apr/09 TR dnf
with N
virtualinsanity 03/Apr/09 TR dnf
with C
Strong Steve 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/09 -
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Sgt. Vest 28/Dec/08 Solo O/S
Mr. K 12/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Crack was full of green slime. Had worn my forearms out by the time I'd cleaned it out with chalky fingers. Should definitely go next time.

with Ben Day
ben__day 12/Oct/08 2nd
with Mr. K
jimbobimbo ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Adrian
briar4012 25/Jul/08 TR

I think this the correct route.

Hidden 25/Jul/08 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead
craig matheson ?/Apr/08 Solo
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
NickST ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
nai 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Rob & Rik
Hidden 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S
kyt341k 29/Jul/07 Lead dog

A number of rests taken

with Nick Ingram
Nicos 06/Jun/07 Solo O/S
with solo
BruceW 06/May/07 2nd dog

Still hard!

with Dave
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 22/Apr/07 Solo rpt
Andy Chubb 21/Apr/07 Lead
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 Solo O/S
joese7en ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 05/Nov/06 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Nov/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/06 2nd dnf
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 16/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Phil Jennings 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Woodseats Venture Unit#
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead dnf
Rampikino 11/May/06 Lead
with Cat
dan gibson 11/Apr/06 Solo rpt
with AJ
Hidden 15/Jan/06 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
ginger 04/Dec/05 -
baldcoder 07/Sep/05 Lead dnf


Hidden 20/Jun/05 Lead O/S
SteveM 23/Apr/05 2nd
with Keith
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 22/Jun/04 2nd dog
Gambit 08/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden ??/2004 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2004 2nd dog
with reeeve
cem 06/Sep/03 Lead dog
with Pete Atkinson
Phil West 22/Feb/03 Lead dnf
with Chris Tan
Monk ??/2003 Lead O/S
duncan 18/Oct/02 Solo rpt
with Toby Foord-Kelcey, Hugo Glover
Carl Smethurst 06/Oct/02 2nd
with Ian Pickles, Dave Pemberton
julian allen 13/Jul/02 TR
Mark Stevenson 28/May/02 Solo O/S
JEP ??/2000 -
Boy ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
uphillnow 03/Nov/99 Lead

done before but no dates

Hidden 18/Aug/99 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/99 Lead
Hidden 04/Jul/98 Lead dog
nigehughes ?/Jul/98 Lead
with Ian Beddoes
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 -
BruceW ??/1997 Lead dog

Tough - 1 rest.

with Al D.
Laramadness 26/Oct/96 Lead O/S
Laramadness 26/Oct/96 Lead dog
ste_d 12/Mar/96 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
Daniel Wrightson 24/Sep/95 Lead O/S
with Olivia Horner
cragspud ??/1995 Lead
Chris Ellis 07/Sep/94 2nd
with Gamba, Rachel Nicolson
Hidden 08/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 -
Hidden 15/Aug/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
Roget 12/Oct/92 Solo O/S
Marti999 05/Sep/92 Lead
with kev
NickJH ?/Sep/92 Solo
Hidden 21/May/92 Lead dnf
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/90 -
samt 23/May/90 Lead

Horrific time after an initial lob onto gear (or not since dad let go of rope to spot me). Proceed to storm off up it, get hideously too pumped to place more gear and very nearly came off the top having elected to push on rather than place gear. Memorable

with Dad
NeilGriffiths ??/1989 -
Rob Davies ?/Apr/88 2nd

I'm sure I had failed on this little nasty in the past

Hidden 25/Oct/87 Solo
goi.ashmore 28/Sep/87 Solo O/S
Andy Say 04/Sep/87 Solo
ukb & bmc shark ?/Nov/86 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/85 Solo
Hidden 09/Jul/85 Solo
stp 02/May/85 Solo O/S

Use kneebar on the crux makes it more like VS 5a.

Mark Kemball 12/Jun/83 Solo
Martin Bennett 23/Apr/83 -
with Harry Lambert
mark-abz 19/Sep/82 2nd
with Andy W
Hidden 13/Mar/82 Solo
Nic Robinson 13/Mar/82 Solo O/S
duncan ?/Mar/80 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove 26/Jun/79 Solo
Mark Kemball 22/Jul/78 Solo
mikej 28/Oct/73 Solo
with John Bickerdike, Geoff Williams
rogerskews ??/1971 Lead
with CMC Members
mikej 13/Oct/68 Solo dnf
with Ian Clayton, Wil Hurford
mikej 13/Oct/68 TR

Last move only.

with Wil Hurford, Ian Clayton
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 79
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 69
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set