The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.
A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.
For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
Rockfax Description
A sustained and interesting route up the left-hand side of the bay, right of the Mojo-Pin slab. Technical bridging leads to a final difficult move to gain the roof. Swing right over the roof on deep pockets to a solid upper wall. © Rockfax
FA. Rob Kennard, Steve Taylor 27/Sep/2008.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ircelapillship | 7 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Sorry to say I\'ve made this route a bit tougher... As I was making my final pull on one of the deep pockets over the lip a massive chunk came off in my right hand just before I managed to lock off with my left, resulting in a pretty big 7/8m whip. I really struggled to pull over after that as I couldn\'t find a decent enough alternative. Could have been nerves after the big fall, but I fear I may have nudged this climb up a grade. SORRY FOLKS! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Sorry to say I've made this route a bit tougher... As I was making my final pull on one of the deep pockets over the lip a massive chunk came off in my right hand just before I managed to lock off with my left, resulting in a pretty big 7/8m whip. I really struggled to pull over after that as I couldn't find a decent enough alternative. Could have been nerves after the big fall, but I fear I may have nudged this climb up a grade. SORRY FOLKS! |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)