8m.

Rockfax Description
The hanging groove is a struggle to enter though at least it has overhead gear. It isn't much easier above either. Often frigged! © Rockfax

FA. Neil Stokes 1971

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes

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UserDateNotes
Fiend 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A short but good fun route that should be done by anyone in the area. Good gear and solid finger/hand jams provide the pleasure.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A short but good fun route that should be done by anyone in the area. Good gear and solid finger/hand jams provide the pleasure.
drcorbasisgod 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The upper part of the crack is desperate for those of us not used to grit-jamming. Also note, this gets tech 5c in the BMC guidebook.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The upper part of the crack is desperate for those of us not used to grit-jamming. Also note, this gets tech 5c in the BMC guidebook.
Nick Smith - Climbers 9 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Fabulous route that is probably E1 5b, but feels quite a bit harder because it is so pumpy. Solid jams up the overhanging crack, if you can keep going!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fabulous route that is probably E1 5b, but feels quite a bit harder because it is so pumpy. Solid jams up the overhanging crack, if you can keep going!
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 6 Jul 2nd β
Hidden 1 Jun Lead O/S
rumblesan 26 May Lead dnf Good fun getting into the groove and then a bit of a grovel. Should have paid more attention to my feet as they went out on me and I found myself upside down in space.
Good fun getting into the groove and then a bit of a grovel. Should have paid more attention to my feet as they went out on me and I found myself upside down in space.
Rob Laird 19 Apr 2nd dog Tried on lead, couldn't get more than half way up the crack
Tried on lead, couldn't get more than half way up the crack
Katsmiff 19 Apr Lead dog Takes effort. Should have gone at it properly not half heartily. Good gear. This is doable to make clean with more effort. Good straddle sit rest on 2 of the ledges.
Takes effort. Should have gone at it properly not half heartily. Good gear. This is doable to make clean with more effort. Good straddle sit rest on 2 of the ledges.
mrphilipoldham 17 Apr Lead dnf ...and one more red cross! Managed to get to the good hand jams but felt drained in the heat (in April, I know, right?) and couldn’t work feet up. Annoying.
...and one more red cross! Managed to get to the good hand jams but felt drained in the heat (in April, I know, right?) and couldn’t work feet up. Annoying.
dynoseb 15 Apr Lead O/S Pumpy and intimidating, good jams though and soon over if you move fast and don't hesitate.
Pumpy and intimidating, good jams though and soon over if you move fast and don't hesitate.
Nick1812P 15 Apr 2nd rpt
with dynoseb
with dynoseb
Hidden 9 Apr Lead
OliverRoss 20 Mar Lead O/S
Will Collett 20 Mar 2nd
Hidden 1 Mar Lead dog
alexalex81 24 Feb Lead dnf
Tom Livingstone 15 Nov, 2018 Solo O/S
manwithacam 15 Sep, 2018 Lead lead from where Mark got to. Which was quite high up. Was pleased to fare better on this than years ago when it felt impossible. I am clearly more comfortable with jamming these days
with the grist
lead from where Mark got to. Which was quite high up. Was pleased to fare better on this than years ago when it felt impossible. I am clearly more comfortable with jamming these days
with the grist
whoisjosh 19 Aug, 2018 2nd dog
with Hugh
with Hugh
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Graham C 14 Oct, 2017 Lead dog I think I may have slumped onto the rope at one point, but I didn’t fall like some people.
with Munch
I think I may have slumped onto the rope at one point, but I didn’t fall like some people.
with Munch
Munch 14 Oct, 2017 2nd dog Tough. Getting the gear out was hard, as it had all been very heavily seated!
Tough. Getting the gear out was hard, as it had all been very heavily seated!
Neil McA 7 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
with Jake McAdie
with Jake McAdie
cragsman9000 6 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with bob_cbr
with bob_cbr
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
foobar123 3 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Complete mare. Tried as a first E1 without looking at UKC to see the consensus grade! Pretty sure the guidebook said it gets easier once you're in the crack: maybe only if you can jam! Got established fairly easily, but as soon as I had to jam it all went to pot. Rested / pulled on lots of gear and swore a lot before finally getting to the top. First E1 will have to wait!
Complete mare. Tried as a first E1 without looking at UKC to see the consensus grade! Pretty sure the guidebook said it gets easier once you're in the crack: maybe only if you can jam! Got established fairly easily, but as soon as I had to jam it all went to pot. Rested / pulled on lots of gear and swore a lot before finally getting to the top. First E1 will have to wait!
harry.morrish 31 May, 2017 2nd rpt
James Oakes 31 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 May, 2017 2nd dog
JimboWizbo 14 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with BCT
with BCT
Andypeak 2 May, 2017 Lead Much more of a fight than I was expecting
Much more of a fight than I was expecting
gaz3212 2 May, 2017 2nd dog
Flavio 1 May, 2017 Solo O/S
harry.morrish 26 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with dom94
with dom94
dom94 26 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S This is a burly brute
This is a burly brute
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 31 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 26 Oct, 2016 Sent
featuresforfeet 25 Sep, 2016 2nd
mikeyjbs 25 Sep, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 24 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 May, 2016 Lead O/S
cem 10 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf Wasn't happening today.
with Kirill
Wasn't happening today.
with Kirill
kermit_uk 3 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Dominic Green 4 Oct, 2015 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 4 Oct, 2015 Lead
Jake Young 27 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with RKirke
with RKirke
1poundSOCKS 9 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Short and hard. The finger slots were really slippery, with quite long reaches between the best slots, and strenuous placing gear.
Short and hard. The finger slots were really slippery, with quite long reaches between the best slots, and strenuous placing gear.
Hidden 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Matt250 21 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
shaunhumphreys 13 May, 2015 Lead O/S Pretty 'ard still felt like a stiff pull off the hand jams
Pretty 'ard still felt like a stiff pull off the hand jams
harry_lewis 13 May, 2015 Lead O/S Laybacked the left side, apparently you're meant to get 'hand-jams' or something...
Laybacked the left side, apparently you're meant to get 'hand-jams' or something...
ninastirrup 13 May, 2015 2nd
amccann 27 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
benkelsey 27 Apr, 2015 2nd dog Cold hard as just back from skiing
with amccann
Cold hard as just back from skiing
with amccann
DubyaJamesDubya ?Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
with Andrew Bevan
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 2nd dog
RichyBOYY 23 Apr, 2014 Lead dog Unbelievably Pumpy - had to rest on gear
Unbelievably Pumpy - had to rest on gear
Hidden 20 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2014 -
Calum Wadsworth 15 Dec, 2013 Lead dog Pissed around in greasy jams at the top of the crack had the wrong hand in the good jam and couldn't change... bit of a beast.
Pissed around in greasy jams at the top of the crack had the wrong hand in the good jam and couldn't change... bit of a beast.
MSchobitz 15 Dec, 2013 2nd dog
MarkRoe 14 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Peter Burnett
with Peter Burnett
deacondeacon 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
stevo smith 11 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S Hard start in the crack tho easier further up! Better holds if not tired from the crack...
with deacon
Hard start in the crack tho easier further up! Better holds if not tired from the crack...
with deacon
climberchristy 7 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt An unremarkable route. Can't see why it gets 2 stars? Tough little fight but short-lived.
with Keith Swainson
An unremarkable route. Can't see why it gets 2 stars? Tough little fight but short-lived.
with Keith Swainson
Mr Messy 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Jason
with Jason
john lynch 6 Apr, 2013 Solo O/S
with Tom
with Tom
danny33 ?Mar, 2013 Lead
Nick Sillem ??, 2013 Solo O/S
arandall 4 Nov, 2012 Lead dog pulled on gear and everything, getting into the groove was a struggle but not impossible, but i couldn't stay in it
pulled on gear and everything, getting into the groove was a struggle but not impossible, but i couldn't stay in it
gingerking 4 Nov, 2012 2nd
Andy Peak 1 20 Oct, 2012 Lead
with H washbrook
with H washbrook
Hidden 14 Sep, 2012 2nd dnf
geoff.comley 13 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Cool move moving into the groove but hard to stay in!
Cool move moving into the groove but hard to stay in!
tsl42 1 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
with Fragmod
with Fragmod
Fragmod 1 Sep, 2012 2nd
masa-alpin 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S Excellent jamming crack climbing!
with Lee P
Excellent jamming crack climbing!
with Lee P
Jackwd 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S Don't know how but I managed to layback the arete to the left of the crack! The jams just weren't solid enough!
Don't know how but I managed to layback the arete to the left of the crack! The jams just weren't solid enough!
charley 6 May, 2012 Lead The guidebook lied. Found getting into the groove hard but okay. Got to the bomber hand jam, placed a cam (maybe in the wrong place) then got pumped silly trying to get any higher - had to rest once then managed to get to the top. Still a big achievement for me as the two main types of routes I normally avoid are anything steep and jamming cracks. Sooo pleased to have managed it..
with Jackwd
The guidebook lied. Found getting into the groove hard but okay. Got to the bomber hand jam, placed a cam (maybe in the wrong place) then got pumped silly trying to get any higher - had to rest once then managed to get to the top. Still a big achievement for me as the two main types of routes I normally avoid are anything steep and jamming cracks. Sooo pleased to have managed it..
with Jackwd
Joris.Roulleau 5 May, 2012 Lead dog Dan started leading it but got where the crack widens. I went up on his gear and almost got it but took a fall from the top of the crack. A few rests later I managed it, using the right arete. Hard and pumpy.
Dan started leading it but got where the crack widens. I went up on his gear and almost got it but took a fall from the top of the crack. A few rests later I managed it, using the right arete. Hard and pumpy.
manwithacam 5 May, 2012 Lead dnf Wow, brutal, didnt stand a chance. I'm a gritstone blouse.
with Joris
Wow, brutal, didnt stand a chance. I'm a gritstone blouse.
with Joris
Alex@home 16 Apr, 2012 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
with The Doctor
Oceanic 15 Apr, 2012 -
Jasminaberry 15 Apr, 2012 TR dog
timmyhobby 31 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 29 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Feb, 2012 2nd O/S
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
gingerking ??, 2012 2nd dog horrendously dogged! But made for much entertainment for the onlookers
horrendously dogged! But made for much entertainment for the onlookers
Mr. K 30 Oct, 2011 Lead dnf
Mr. K 30 Oct, 2011 2nd rpt Took a few goes to work out how to get off the block and into the hanging groove.
Took a few goes to work out how to get off the block and into the hanging groove.
James Oswald 30 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Hard work, but not so bad when you now how. Tried after Kyle backed off. Took a couple of failed attempts to figure out the sequence. The top is sustained but good and you can get your hands jammed in.
with Mr. K
Hard work, but not so bad when you now how. Tried after Kyle backed off. Took a couple of failed attempts to figure out the sequence. The top is sustained but good and you can get your hands jammed in.
with Mr. K
btc 17 Sep, 2011 Lead dog
with Phil Davis
with Phil Davis
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 Lead
Goose4 24 Jul, 2011 Lead β
with Paul Moore
with Paul Moore
ChrisBrooke 28 May, 2011 Lead dog
with Peter Staves, Duncan Bell
with Peter Staves, Duncan Bell
Hidden 21 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 May, 2011 Lead O/S
pmurdy 4 May, 2011 Lead RP Ground up. Fell off twice.
with Matt H
Ground up. Fell off twice.
with Matt H
Hidden 18 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
ben_250 18 Apr, 2011 2nd dog
mike mo 16 Apr, 2011 2nd
mike mo 16 Apr, 2011 2nd
mike mo 16 Apr, 2011 2nd
Hidden 16 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 8 Apr, 2011 2nd
thomasadixon 8 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt Had rested on this in 3/10, seem to have learned to jam now!
Had rested on this in 3/10, seem to have learned to jam now!
Hidden 2 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 19 Mar, 2011 2nd
with loundsy
with loundsy
Hidden 19 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Mar, 2011 Lead β
mark20 2 Mar, 2011 Lead RP Ground up, 1 fall
Ground up, 1 fall
dan_o_b ??, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead
Martin Davies 17 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Pretty tricky and strenuous laybacking, quite absorbing!
with Ollie Lister
Pretty tricky and strenuous laybacking, quite absorbing!
with Ollie Lister
kevp 13 Oct, 2010 Lead
Hidden 11 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf
williamsd79 10 Jul, 2010 -
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Sandy Holford 31 May, 2010 2nd
Anthony Allsopp 31 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Mark Darby, Sandy Holford
with Mark Darby, Sandy Holford
Ram MkiV 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Ivan
with Ivan
Barry D 15 May, 2010 2nd
with Norm G, Stacey H, Trish
with Norm G, Stacey H, Trish
Alexandre Buisse 1 May, 2010 Lead Ierk!
Ierk!
Hidden 26 Apr, 2010 2nd
DaveFidler 25 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with TonyF
with TonyF
Hidden 25 Apr, 2010 2nd
will6459 18 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 15 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Rather good, I didn't find the gear (used small wires) didn't use or get in way of the best holds or maybe I didn't put the gear in high enough, so the pull up into the perfect jam was straight forward, soft E1
with Ian
Rather good, I didn't find the gear (used small wires) didn't use or get in way of the best holds or maybe I didn't put the gear in high enough, so the pull up into the perfect jam was straight forward, soft E1
with Ian
BeccaSnowden 17 Mar, 2010 Lead dnf Made it up to the top of the wider jamming crack second go but then fell and hands were too painful to go again!
Made it up to the top of the wider jamming crack second go but then fell and hands were too painful to go again!
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
RossG ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 2nd dnf
barni 6 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Strong Jon
with Strong Jon
Hidden 8 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2009 2nd
Hannah Moulton 29 Apr, 2009 2nd doom!
with Gav
doom!
with Gav
bigphil 3 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Brutal
with Neil
Brutal
with Neil
steveb2006 21 Mar, 2009 2nd
with Roland Smith
with Roland Smith
UKB Shark 17 Jan, 2009 Solo
with Mark Shea + Hungry Steve
with Mark Shea + Hungry Steve
mikeyjbs ?Jan, 2009 Lead dog
with adam spong, tony bowles, farrow, lachie, davina budd
with adam spong, tony bowles, farrow, lachie, davina budd
alicia 8 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S Was really pleased to get this onsight!
with Drew
Was really pleased to get this onsight!
with Drew
jimbobimbo ?Oct, 2008 Lead dnf found gear which sweetened failiure
with achatzs
found gear which sweetened failiure
with achatzs
RagingPuffin 27 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Claire
with Claire
Al Franks 27 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with cy
with cy
cy 27 Sep, 2008 2nd dog
Mr Wild 14 Sep, 2008 Lead dnf ended up footless on painful handjams, not enough will to continue, will be back for round two soon
with Simon Brown
ended up footless on painful handjams, not enough will to continue, will be back for round two soon
with Simon Brown
fizzy_elephant 2 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Nick Fletcher
with Nick Fletcher
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
roberto18 24 May, 2008 Lead Hard work
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hard work
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden 7 May, 2008 Lead rpt
Hidden 26 Apr, 2008 2nd
wwykeham 1 Mar, 2008 2nd dnf Got to the top but cheated my way up a lot of it, either by going off the the side or pulling up on gear. Retrieving nuts that were thoroughly jammed along with one that fred was hiding inside the cliff. Not enjoyable at all in that wind.
with Fred Lyon
Got to the top but cheated my way up a lot of it, either by going off the the side or pulling up on gear. Retrieving nuts that were thoroughly jammed along with one that fred was hiding inside the cliff. Not enjoyable at all in that wind.
with Fred Lyon
tumbling wizard 1 Mar, 2008 Lead
SecretSquirrel 17 Feb, 2008 Lead Rested on gear about half height before cracking the end sequence.
Rested on gear about half height before cracking the end sequence.
adam carless 17 Feb, 2008 TR O/S third man up after Nick Smith
third man up after Nick Smith
Hidden 17 Feb, 2008 2nd rpt
MikeDowsett ??, 2008 2nd
with Paul Tretheway
with Paul Tretheway
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
nacnud 4 Nov, 2007 2nd
sadams 3 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
with Catherine Adams
with Catherine Adams
clive-greenwood 5 May, 2007 Lead O/S
Anna Horrox 5 May, 2007 2nd
AJ007 28 Apr, 2007 Lead dnf
dan gibson 28 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with AJ
with AJ
tatz45 18 Apr, 2007 Lead β
with bionik
with bionik
dannyboy83 ?Apr, 2007 Solo O/S
jonka ??, 2007 Lead
Brown ?Nov, 2006 2nd O/S
with Henry
with Henry
Hidden 30 Sep, 2006 Solo
Hidden 17 Aug, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Paz 15 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
with CC2
with CC2
Boy ??, 2006 -
dan gibson ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead dog
Rik Dawes ??, 2006 Lead O/S
oldmanrivers ??, 2006 Solo
Hidden 30 May, 2005 2nd O/S
LankyPaddy 24 Oct, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2004 -
cem 6 Sep, 2003 Lead rpt Clean this time.
with Pete Atkinson
Clean this time.
with Pete Atkinson
Carl Smethurst 6 Oct, 2002 2nd
with Dave Pemberton, Ian Pickles
with Dave Pemberton, Ian Pickles
cem 17 Aug, 2002 Lead dog 1 rest
with Mark Lim
1 rest
with Mark Lim
andybirtwistle ?Aug, 2002 Lead
with lithos
with lithos
lithos ?Aug, 2002 2nd
Hidden ?Apr, 2002 2nd
Luke Gilbert ??, 2002 -
Carl Smethurst 2 Sep, 2001 2nd
with Ian Pickles
with Ian Pickles
Cassidy ??, 2001 -
Nigel Coe 4 Nov, 2000 Lead Luckily I've erased the details from my memory, but my guidebook note says I 'led' it with preplaced gear and 3 falls! :(
Luckily I've erased the details from my memory, but my guidebook note says I 'led' it with preplaced gear and 3 falls! :(
Hidden 22 Oct, 2000 2nd O/S
tuftynick ??, 2000 Solo
uphillnow 9 Nov, 1999 Lead John Hubbard, Dick Tong and Richard Sanderson followed I think
John Hubbard, Dick Tong and Richard Sanderson followed I think
Jon Read ?Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
Paul-Michael 28 Sep, 1998 Lead dnf backed off!
with David Jupp
backed off!
with David Jupp
Hidden 15 Feb, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Oct, 1997 2nd
Hidden ??, 1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 1996 Lead O/S
rurp ??, 1996 -
goi.ashmore 5 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
with Simon Coles
Hidden 1 Jun, 1995 Lead
Hidden 8 Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
cragspud ??, 1995 2nd β
Nettle 14 May, 1994 Lead O/S
with Neil Haycock
with Neil Haycock
Neil McA 10 Apr, 1994 Lead O/S
with Nick Marriot
with Nick Marriot
roncaves 13 Mar, 1993 2nd
with James Thomas
with James Thomas
steveb2006 5 Sep, 1992 Lead
NickJH ?Sep, 1992 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1992 -
WB ??, 1992 -
Roget 27 Dec, 1991 Lead O/S
with mark turnbull
with mark turnbull
Stoney Boy 5 Jul, 1988 Lead O/S
with Martin Heath
with Martin Heath
Dave Turnbull 1 Apr, 1984 Lead
with Jim Thomas
with Jim Thomas
Dave Musgrove 27 Mar, 1982 Solo
with Kim Greenald, Andy Wild
with Kim Greenald, Andy Wild
Mark Kemball 29 Mar, 1981 Solo
Rick51 22 Jun, 1980 2nd
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 48
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set