Rockfax Description
The hanging groove is a struggle to enter though at least it has overhead gear. It isn't much easier above either. Often frigged! © Rockfax

FA. Neil Stokes 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

Graham C 14/Oct Lead dog

I think I may have slumped onto the rope at one point, but I didn’t fall like some people.

with Munch
Munch 14/Oct 2nd dog

Tough. Getting the gear out was hard, as it had all been very heavily seated!

with Graham
Neil McA 07/Jul 2nd rpt
with Jake McAdie
cragsman9000 06/Jul Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden 03/Jun Lead O/S
foobar123 03/Jun Lead dog

Complete mare. Tried as a first E1 without looking at UKC to see the consensus grade! Pretty sure the guidebook said it gets easier once you're in the crack: maybe only if you can jam! Got established fairly easily, but as soon as I had to jam it all went to pot. Rested / pulled on lots of gear and swore a lot before finally getting to the top. First E1 will have to wait!

harry.morrish 31/May 2nd rpt
James Oakes 31/May Lead O/S
with Harry Morrish
Hidden 14/May 2nd dog
JimboWizbo 14/May Lead O/S
with Beth
Andypeak 02/May Lead

Much more of a fight than I was expecting

gaz3212 02/May 2nd dog
FlavioL1989 01/May Solo O/S
harry.morrish 26/Apr 2nd O/S
with dom94
tebs 25/Mar Lead O/S

Not as bad as I'd feared.

with Adam
Ewan Russell 31/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 26/Oct/16 Sent
featuresforfeet 25/Sep/16 2nd
mikeyjbs 25/Sep/16 Lead rpt
HarryBowyer 24/May/16 Lead O/S
with Simon Brumpton
Hidden 07/May/16 Lead O/S
cem 10/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Wasn't happening today.

kermit_uk 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Dominic Green 04/Oct/15 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 04/Oct/15 Lead
Jake Young 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Roger K
1poundSOCKS 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Short and hard. The finger slots were really slippery, with quite long reaches between the best slots, and strenuous placing gear.

Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Matt250 21/Jun/15 2nd dog
shaunhumphreys 13/May/15 Lead O/S

Pretty 'ard still felt like a stiff pull off the hand jams

harry_lewis 13/May/15 Lead O/S

Laybacked the left side, apparently you're meant to get 'hand-jams' or something...

with Nina
ninastirrup 13/May/15 2nd
amccann 27/Apr/15 Lead O/S
benkelsey 27/Apr/15 2nd dog

Cold hard as just back from skiing

DubyaJamesDubya ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Tim Rodgers 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
RichyBOYY 23/Apr/14 Lead dog

Unbelievably Pumpy - had to rest on gear

Hidden 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 -
Calum Wadsworth 15/Dec/13 Lead dog

Pissed around in greasy jams at the top of the crack had the wrong hand in the good jam and couldn't change... bit of a beast.

with micki
MSchobitz 15/Dec/13 2nd dog
MarkRoe 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Peter Burnett
deacondeacon 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
stevo smith 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Hard start in the crack tho easier further up! Better holds if not tired from the crack...

with deacon
climberchristy 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt

An unremarkable route. Can't see why it gets 2 stars? Tough little fight but short-lived.

with Keith Swainson
Mr Messy 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jason
john lynch 06/Apr/13 Solo O/S
with Tom
danny33 ?/Mar/13 Lead
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Solo O/S
arandall 04/Nov/12 Lead dog

pulled on gear and everything, getting into the groove was a struggle but not impossible, but i couldn't stay in it

gingerking 04/Nov/12 2nd
Andy Peak 1 20/Oct/12 Lead
with H washbrook
Hidden 14/Sep/12 2nd dnf
geoff.comley 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Cool move moving into the groove but hard to stay in!

tsl42 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Fragmod 01/Sep/12 2nd
masa-alpin 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Excellent jamming crack climbing!

with Lee P
Jackwd 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Don't know how but I managed to layback the arete to the left of the crack! The jams just weren't solid enough!

charley 06/May/12 Lead

The guidebook lied. Found getting into the groove hard but okay. Got to the bomber hand jam, placed a cam (maybe in the wrong place) then got pumped silly trying to get any higher - had to rest once then managed to get to the top. Still a big achievement for me as the two main types of routes I normally avoid are anything steep and jamming cracks. Sooo pleased to have managed it..

with JackD
Joris.Roulleau 05/May/12 Lead dog

Dan started leading it but got where the crack widens. I went up on his gear and almost got it but took a fall from the top of the crack. A few rests later I managed it, using the right arete. Hard and pumpy.

manwithacam 05/May/12 Lead dnf

Wow, brutal, didnt stand a chance. I'm a gritstone blouse.

with Joris
Alex@home 16/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with The Doctor
Oceanic 15/Apr/12 -
Jasminaberry 15/Apr/12 TR dog
timmyhobby 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 29/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 29/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
gingerking ??/2012 2nd dog

horrendously dogged! But made for much entertainment for the onlookers

Mr. K 30/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Mr. K 30/Oct/11 2nd rpt

Took a few goes to work out how to get off the block and into the hanging groove.

James Oswald 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Hard work, but not so bad when you now how. Tried after Kyle backed off. Took a couple of failed attempts to figure out the sequence. The top is sustained but good and you can get your hands jammed in.

btc 17/Sep/11 Lead dog
with Phil Davis
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead
Goose4 24/Jul/11 Lead β
with Paul Moore
ChrisBrooke 28/May/11 Lead dog
with Peter Staves, Duncan Bell
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/11 Lead O/S
pmurdy 04/May/11 Lead RP

Ground up. Fell off twice.

with Matt H
Hidden 18/Apr/11 Lead dog
ben_250 18/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Tom
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 08/Apr/11 2nd
thomasadixon 08/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Had rested on this in 3/10, seem to have learned to jam now!

with Alan
Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 19/Mar/11 2nd
with loundsy
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/11 Lead β
mark20 02/Mar/11 Lead RP

Ground up, 1 fall

dan_o_b ??/2011 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Martin Davies 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Pretty tricky and strenuous laybacking, quite absorbing!

with Ollie Lister
kevp 13/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead dnf
williamsd79 10/Jul/10 -
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Sandy Holford 31/May/10 2nd
Anthony Allsopp 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Darby, Sandy Holford
Ram MkiV 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ivan
Barry D 15/May/10 2nd
with Norm G, Stacey H, Trish
Alexandre Buisse 01/May/10 Lead


Hidden 26/Apr/10 2nd
DaveFidler 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Dad
TonyF 25/Apr/10 2nd
with David
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Rather good, I didn't find the gear (used small wires) didn't use or get in way of the best holds or maybe I didn't put the gear in high enough, so the pull up into the perfect jam was straight forward, soft E1

with Ian
BeccaSnowden 17/Mar/10 Lead dnf

Made it up to the top of the wider jamming crack second go but then fell and hands were too painful to go again!

with Tom
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
RossG ??/2010 -
TonyF ??/2010 2nd dnf

Rain pouring down rock.

barni 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Strong Jon
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/09 2nd
Hannah Moulton 29/Apr/09 2nd


with Gav
bigphil 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S


with Neil
Hidden 21/Mar/09 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 17/Jan/09 Solo
with Mark Shea + Hungry Steve
mikeyjbs ?/Jan/09 Lead dog
with adam spong, tony bowles, farrow, lachie, davina budd
alicia 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Was really pleased to get this onsight!

with Drew
jimbobimbo ?/Oct/08 Lead dnf

found gear which sweetened failiure

with Adrian
RagingPuffin 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
Al Franks 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
cy 27/Sep/08 2nd dog
with Al
Mr Wild 14/Sep/08 Lead dnf

ended up footless on painful handjams, not enough will to continue, will be back for round two soon

with Simon Brown
fizzy_elephant 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Nick Fletcher
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
roberto18 24/May/08 Lead

Hard work

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden 07/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd
wwykeham 01/Mar/08 2nd dnf

Got to the top but cheated my way up a lot of it, either by going off the the side or pulling up on gear. Retrieving nuts that were thoroughly jammed along with one that fred was hiding inside the cliff. Not enjoyable at all in that wind.

with Fred Lyon
tumbling wizard 01/Mar/08 Lead
SecretSquirrel 17/Feb/08 Lead

Rested on gear about half height before cracking the end sequence.

adam carless 17/Feb/08 TR O/S

third man up after Nick Smith

Hidden 17/Feb/08 2nd rpt
MikeDowsett ??/2008 2nd
with Paul Tretheway
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
nacnud 04/Nov/07 2nd
sadams 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Catherine Adams
clive-greenwood 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Horrox 05/May/07 2nd
AJ007 28/Apr/07 Lead dnf
dan gibson 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
tatz45 18/Apr/07 Lead β
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 Solo O/S
jonka ??/2007 Lead
Nicos 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Brown ?/Nov/06 2nd O/S
with Henry
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Solo
Hidden 17/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Paz 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with CC2
Boy ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dog
Rik Dawes ??/2006 Lead O/S
oldmanrivers ??/2006 Solo
Hidden 30/May/05 2nd O/S
LankyPaddy 24/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
cem 06/Sep/03 Lead rpt

Clean this time.

with Pete Atkinson
Carl Smethurst 06/Oct/02 2nd
with Dave Pemberton, Ian Pickles
cem 17/Aug/02 Lead dog

1 rest

with Mark Lim
andybirtwistle ?/Aug/02 Lead
lithos ?/Aug/02 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/02 2nd
Luke Gilbert ??/2002 -
Carl Smethurst 02/Sep/01 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Cassidy ??/2001 -
Nigel Coe 04/Nov/00 Lead

Luckily I've erased the details from my memory, but my guidebook note says I 'led' it with preplaced gear and 3 falls! :(

Hidden 22/Oct/00 2nd O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Solo
uphillnow 09/Nov/99 Lead

John Hubbard, Dick Tong and Richard Sanderson followed I think

Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Paul-Michael 28/Sep/98 Lead dnf

backed off!

with David Jupp
Hidden 15/Feb/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/97 2nd
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/96 Lead O/S
rurp ??/1996 -
goi.ashmore 05/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
Hidden 01/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
cragspud ??/1995 2nd β
roncaves 13/Mar/93 2nd
with James Thomas
Hidden 05/Sep/92 Lead
NickJH ?/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/1992 -
WB ??/1992 -
Roget 27/Dec/91 Lead O/S
with mark turnbull
Stoney Boy 05/Jul/88 Lead O/S
with Martin Heath
Dave Turnbull 01/Apr/84 Lead
with Jim Thomas
Dave Musgrove 27/Mar/82 Solo
with Kim Greenald, Andy Wild
Mark Kemball 29/Mar/81 Solo
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