Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
N.B. now almost completely rebolted, and very nearly a 7a sport route: some trad gear needed for the section which crosses Bodger Bob. There is now a twin bolt belay station adjacent to the original, and also a new bolt replacing the worn peg at the crux. The suggested start is at the foot of a small arete, before following the original directions. Thanks to Mike Hope et al for the work.
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