Rockfax Description
A popular free climb that is much easier than the grade might suggest. The crux pitch offers a stunning traverse under a large roof that can be aided on the fixed gear at roughly V+ A0.

Start left of the prominent southeast arete.
1) IV, 25m. Climb direct then move right on grassy rock to a ledge.
2) IV, 40m. Climb up to a yellow niche on the left then move diagonally right to a stance below a crack.
3) V, 35m. Move up to the crack and climb this direct, overcoming two small bulges, to reach an uncomfortable stance below a niche, formed by two cracks above.
4) V+, 25m. Continue up the corner-crack and move left along a flake to a stance below the roof.
5) VII or V+ A0, 15m. Step back right to the corner and climb this to the roof. Make a sustained traverse right on good but sometimes wet holds, past plenty of fixed gear. Then move up and right through a strenuous corner to a stance on the right upper edge of the roof, just left of the arete.
6) IV-, 40m. Enjoyable and easier climbing on good rock leads left to belay below a yellow crack, just left of a smaller roof.
7) IV, 35m. Don't climb the crack but continue diagonally left then climb a corner-crack near the minor left arete.
8) IV-, 30m. Move right to grassy ground on the arete.
9) IV+, 25m. Climb a steep crack just right of the arete to a stance below a short corner.
10) IV+, 35m. Climb the corner then move left back around the arete and climb a crack to reach a niche on the edge of the arete.
11) IV, 35m. Keep left of the niche and climb a short crack, then follow a ramp easily rightwards to a thread.
12) IV-, 40m. Climb a slab and a short chimney left to reach the Chamois Terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not really alpine, but not a british trad route either. Climbs a line just left of the right arete until forced out right onto the arete in a wild position by a large roof. Passing this to reach the arete proper is the crux UIAA VII, F6b. Above follow the arete more or less directly.

Ticklists

Dollies and Follies

Feedback Always Hide βeta