170m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular free climb that is much easier than the grade might suggest. The crux pitch offers a stunning traverse under a large roof that can be aided on the fixed gear at roughly V+ A0.

Start left of the prominent southeast arete.
1) IV, 25m. Climb direct then move right on grassy rock to a ledge.
2) IV, 40m. Climb up to a yellow niche on the left then move diagonally right to a stance below a crack.
3) V, 35m. Move up to the crack and climb this direct, overcoming two small bulges, to reach an uncomfortable stance below a niche, formed by two cracks above.
4) V+, 25m. Continue up the corner-crack and move left along a flake to a stance below the roof.
5) VII or V+ A0, 15m. Step back right to the corner and climb this to the roof. Make a sustained traverse right on good but sometimes wet holds, past plenty of fixed gear. Then move up and right through a strenuous corner to a stance on the right upper edge of the roof, just left of the arete.
6) IV-, 40m. Enjoyable and easier climbing on good rock leads left to belay below a yellow crack, just left of a smaller roof.
7) IV, 35m. Don't climb the crack but continue diagonally left then climb a corner-crack near the minor left arete.
8) IV-, 30m. Move right to grassy ground on the arete.
9) IV+, 25m. Climb a steep crack just right of the arete to a stance below a short corner.
10) IV+, 35m. Climb the corner then move left back around the arete and climb a crack to reach a niche on the edge of the arete.
11) IV, 35m. Keep left of the niche and climb a short crack, then follow a ramp easily rightwards to a thread.
12) IV-, 40m. Climb a slab and a short chimney left to reach the Chamois Terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not really alpine, but not a british trad route either. Climbs a line just left of the right arete until forced out right onto the arete in a wild position by a large roof. Passing this to reach the arete proper is the crux UIAA VII, F6b. Above follow the arete more or less directly.

Hidden 22/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
malone 25/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jul/17 AltLd
Cole Robertson ?/Jul/17 Lead O/S
RM199 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Aided crux. Pitch grades approx - S 4a, HS 4b, VS 5a, HVS 5a, HVS 4c A1, S 4a, S 4a, S 4a, VS 4b, HS 4b, S 4a, S 4a

loonylovegood93 07/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Aided crux, led the easier three pitches after the crux

Alex Riley 11/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1-6. Took a long time with party of three, one of whom was their first trad route. Bit loose at the top.

with Tyee, Anna Riley
Uisdean hawthorn 15/Jul/16 AltLd
with susanne
RobScarisbrick 06/Jul/16 AltLd
with cdpuk
cdpuk 06/Jul/16 AltLd
james1978 21/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Lead odd pitches. P3 is superb! Got the crux pitch free first time.

with pam
QuentinSu 15/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Good. Lead odd pitches. Only one grade VII move, and easily aided if needed. Apart from that all grade V+ or below. 5.5 hours, and just topped out before a downpour of hail and a thunderstorm began. Phew.

Hidden ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 26/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/91 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/88 AltLd
Rob Davies 08/Aug/87 Lead dog

Aid on P5 overhang. Route-finding above that fairly arbitrary. Retreated from P3 2 days earlier due to over-crowding and cold weather. Big icicles were visible at the top of the Piz Ciavazes wall, even in August!

with Mike Papworth
Paul Clarke ??/1979 Lead

Hut warden said this was 1st free ascent but not sure?

with NUMC
Martin Bennett 07/Aug/75 -
with RA
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High VII+
Mid VII+
Low VII+
High VII
High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set