170m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular free climb that is much easier than the grade might suggest. The crux pitch offers a stunning traverse under a large roof that can be aided on the fixed gear at roughly V+ A0.

Start left of the prominent southeast arete.
1) IV, 25m. Climb direct then move right on grassy rock to a ledge.
2) IV, 40m. Climb up to a yellow niche on the left then move diagonally right to a stance below a crack.
3) V, 35m. Move up to the crack and climb this direct, overcoming two small bulges, to reach an uncomfortable stance below a niche, formed by two cracks above.
4) V+, 25m. Continue up the corner-crack and move left along a flake to a stance below the roof.
5) VII or V+ A0, 15m. Step back right to the corner and climb this to the roof. Make a sustained traverse right on good but sometimes wet holds, past plenty of fixed gear. Then move up and right through a strenuous corner to a stance on the right upper edge of the roof, just left of the arete.
6) IV-, 40m. Enjoyable and easier climbing on good rock leads left to belay below a yellow crack, just left of a smaller roof.
7) IV, 35m. Don't climb the crack but continue diagonally left then climb a corner-crack near the minor left arete.
8) IV-, 30m. Move right to grassy ground on the arete.
9) IV+, 25m. Climb a steep crack just right of the arete to a stance below a short corner.
10) IV+, 35m. Climb the corner then move left back around the arete and climb a crack to reach a niche on the edge of the arete.
11) IV, 35m. Keep left of the niche and climb a short crack, then follow a ramp easily rightwards to a thread.
12) IV-, 40m. Climb a slab and a short chimney left to reach the Chamois Terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not really alpine, but not a british trad route either. Climbs a line just left of the right arete until forced out right onto the arete in a wild position by a large roof. Passing this to reach the arete proper is the crux UIAA VII, F6b. Above follow the arete more or less directly.

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Guy Arnold 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Aided the wet crux
Aided the wet crux
s.hunter ?Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S below grades accurate, crux about E2 6a if free
below grades accurate, crux about E2 6a if free
Hidden 22 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Octavian 22 Aug, 2017 AltLd
malone 25 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Appleby
with Appleby
Appleby 25 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with malone
with malone
Hidden 23 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Bronwyn Tarr ?Jul, 2017 2nd
countchalkula ?Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
RM199 7 Sep, 2016 Lead dog Aided crux. Pitch grades approx - S 4a, HS 4b, VS 5a, HVS 5a, HVS 4c A1, S 4a, S 4a, S 4a, VS 4b, HS 4b, S 4a, S 4a
Aided crux. Pitch grades approx - S 4a, HS 4b, VS 5a, HVS 5a, HVS 4c A1, S 4a, S 4a, S 4a, VS 4b, HS 4b, S 4a, S 4a
loonylovegood93 7 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S Aided crux, led the easier three pitches after the crux
Aided crux, led the easier three pitches after the crux
Hidden 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Uisdean hawthorn 15 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with susanne
with susanne
RobScarisbrick 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
cdpuk 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd
james1978 21 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead odd pitches. P3 is superb! Got the crux pitch free first time.
with pam
Lead odd pitches. P3 is superb! Got the crux pitch free first time.
with pam
QuentinSu 15 Sep, 2015 AltLd G/U
Ed Babs 10 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Good. Lead odd pitches. Only one grade VII move, and easily aided if needed. Apart from that all grade V+ or below. 5.5 hours, and just topped out before a downpour of hail and a thunderstorm began. Phew.
with IainAM
Good. Lead odd pitches. Only one grade VII move, and easily aided if needed. Apart from that all grade V+ or below. 5.5 hours, and just topped out before a downpour of hail and a thunderstorm began. Phew.
with IainAM
Hidden ?Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 18 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 26 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
ajtay ?Aug, 1991 AltLd
with Alan Thomson Matthew Smith
with Alan Thomson Matthew Smith
Hidden 5 Aug, 1988 AltLd
Rob Davies 8 Aug, 1987 Lead dog Aid on P5 overhang. Route-finding above that fairly arbitrary. Retreated from P3 2 days earlier due to over-crowding and cold weather. Big icicles were visible at the top of the Piz Ciavazes wall, even in August!
with Mike Papworth
Aid on P5 overhang. Route-finding above that fairly arbitrary. Retreated from P3 2 days earlier due to over-crowding and cold weather. Big icicles were visible at the top of the Piz Ciavazes wall, even in August!
with Mike Papworth
Hidden ??, 1979 Lead
Martin Bennett 7 Aug, 1975 -
with RA
with RA
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Voting
High VII+
Mid VII+
Low VII+
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set