18m.

Rockfax Description
The long groove is climbed to the overhang. Pull through this and climb the wall just right via shallow groove. Good value! © Rockfax

FA. Mick Fowler 1976

Ticklists: Millstone HVS's, Millstone * HVS In a day, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***.


ClimberDateStyle
Felicity Eperon 15/Oct Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 15/Oct 2nd O/S
hfotheri 14/Oct 2nd O/S
with simon
Pixie-Andy 24/Sep 2nd O/S
with Mathew
Tom Redwood 02/Sep Lead G/U

Bit awkward in several places with less good rests than expected, much easier for the thinner of finger I imagine. First lead fall as foot popped stupidly while not paying attention.

morganator 16/Aug Lead O/S
pingora 12/Aug 2nd O/S
cem 12/Aug Lead rpt

Seconded it in 2004 but hadn't led it before. HVS 5a, as per the definitive guidebook, seems right to me.

with Ian Dillon, Rory Cummings
Rory_Cummings_NI 12/Aug 2nd
with Charles, Ian
Michael Morrell 10/Aug Lead
Luke90 17/Jul Lead O/S

Great route. Strenuous to protect well early on. Top-end of HVS but not E1. As always at Millstone, be wary of the top. Last few metres are slightly loose and not entirely trivial.

with Liz
Elizabeth Allen 17/Jul 2nd O/S
with Luke
ashtond6 15/Jul TR
bencole 11/Jun Lead O/S
fuzzysheep01 21/May 2nd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 21/May Lead
Hidden 02/May Lead
Afell 11/Dec/16 Lead O/S
GregClixby 15/Oct/16 2nd β
crossleysm 08/Oct/16 2nd
with Adam
sheelba 02/Oct/16 2nd
with Ralph
ralphio 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

First third climbed on top rope as partner had lowered to the ground after trying the lead.

with Sam
Christina 24/Sep/16 2nd

I rested on the rope a few times as I immediately got pumped (it was the warm-up)

with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 02/Sep/16 Lead
Andrew Barker 01/Sep/16 2nd
with Chris M
MD 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Very sustained with hard 5b moves going through the roof. Very top end of HVS, excellent route.

with Ian W, Mark H
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
efrance24234 20/May/16 Lead O/S
Brannock 14/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/May/16 2nd dnf
Proddler 12/May/16 Lead O/S
Txitxar ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 19/Oct/15 Lead O/S
hankyc 12/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/15 2nd
adrianj 07/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead
MarcinGobczynski ??/2015 Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2015 -
georgenvk 25/Oct/14 2nd RP
shaunhumphreys 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S
benkelsey 23/Sep/14 2nd O/S

interesting move around the bulge

with Shaun Humphreys
ashtond6 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S

prob E1 with hard 5b move and very loose overhangs

tsl42 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Think I would have clean onsighted this if not having to get gear out.

with Dan G
DanielGyi 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Brannock 24/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Guy Atkinson 30/Jun/14 2nd β

Very sustained lower section. Moving to the right near the top felt more like 5c? took a while to work it out.

treg 30/Jun/14 Lead dog

Hard HVS. Sustained lower down with one more tough move in the top section.

dannyboy83 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Stuart
tim.fairhall 21/Jun/14 2nd
with Matt
Duncan Campbell 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Great lower groove.

with Steve Franklin
uphillnow ??/2014 -
jshields 06/Oct/13 2nd
bendevonport 06/Oct/13 2nd
g1m147 22/Sep/13 2nd
with Mick.
Andrew Sloan 26/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Martin Haworth 26/Aug/13 Lead dog

What was I messing about at?

Pete Wimbush 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Jim Slater
Jim Slater 16/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd dog
Mr Wild 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Awkward to stay out of Estremo at the top

Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Jake Young 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Henry
eduardo 11/Aug/12 2nd dog

Tough for HVS. Struggled to retrieve a walked-in friend low down and rested (and then needed both hands to get it out), but would have probably found this tough anyway - some sustained sequences of physical moves.

with Ken Tranter
Graeme Hammond 23/May/12 Lead O/S

seemed tough in the sweltering heat, but good climbing and a more solid finish than Estremo :)

Matt Cooke 20/May/12 2nd β
with Rosh
Tony Holdsworth 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Richard White
harold walmsley 27/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Colin Struthers
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
davesykes 28/Aug/11 Lead
with Badger
Barry D 23/Aug/11 2nd
with Steve B
nokishatov 19/Aug/11 2nd O/S
stuaart 14/Aug/11 2nd

Nails for HVS. And to think I thought the 5b bit was on the lower section!

with Dave
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
saul cashmore ??/2011 -
gd303uk 22/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Paul Taylor
mark20 06/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Had fallen on it previously. Good to get it done clean. Tough HVS!

Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Shauna 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jules
mark20 16/Jun/10 Lead dog

Fell off the sandy crux, got it second go. Nice

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
jkarran 05/Sep/09 2nd

Perplexing crux had me stumped for ages. No pushover at HVS.

with Matt, Grant
GrantB 05/Sep/09 2nd
with James
mattyork2 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with James Karran and Grante!
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
DavidR 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 11/Jul/09 2nd O/S
charlesmfrench 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
vanderz 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 -
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
btc 05/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with felix coxwell
WB 08/Sep/08 Lead O/S

good bottom section, top is a bit contrived to avoid estrata

with Guy
EdShep 04/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Pilch
Pilch 04/Jul/08 Lead O/S

sustained but good bridging rests, finished mostly on Estremo

with Ed
alaan 08/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 25/May/07 Lead O/S
with Tom
Andrew Sloan 16/Sep/06 2nd rpt
Mick r 24/Jun/06 -
Hidden 24/Jun/06 2nd
Martin Haworth ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Richard
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
cem 12/Sep/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Carl Smethurst 16/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Pickles
skygodley 19/May/01 Lead O/S
Roget 12/May/01 Lead O/S
Trobbo 07/May/01 TR
with andy hartley
Martin Bennett 17/Sep/00 -
with Phil
D Tempest ?/Jul/00 Lead
babymoac 30/May/98 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Aug/94 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/92 2nd O/S
crossleysm ??/1992 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 20/Apr/90 -
John Marsland 06/Aug/89 2nd
with Neil Bulloch
ukb & bmc shark 01/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with Dolly
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Al Evans ??/1976 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 25
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set