20m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the delicate thin crack near the right edge of the slab and the short-lived but gripping curving flake above which definitely looks detached! Finish up the short crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Millstone Edge

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UserDateNotes
GrahamD 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The flake section of this route is brilliant but the described approach is disjointed, slippery and dirty. For a really quality outing, take Great Slab to beneath the flake, then take the flake and the continuation crack above - a much better and more logical line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The flake section of this route is brilliant but the described approach is disjointed, slippery and dirty. For a really quality outing, take Great Slab to beneath the flake, then take the flake and the continuation crack above - a much better and more logical line.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
buxtoncoffeelover 29 Jun Lead With Tom/Tom. Started up Great Slab. Awkward move getting established on the flake, but easier thereafter
With Tom/Tom. Started up Great Slab. Awkward move getting established on the flake, but easier thereafter
KSP 29 Jun Lead O/S
with RP
with RP
GFidz 3 Jun 2nd
Hidden 3 Jun Lead
Edshakey 3 Jun Lead O/S Quite green all the way through, shame because the flake climbing is quite good. Stiff 4c
with GFidz
Quite green all the way through, shame because the flake climbing is quite good. Stiff 4c
with GFidz
cragtyke 3 Jun 2nd great slab start
great slab start
Chrisjw 24 May Lead O/S
with Martin, Mike Mowbray
with Martin, Mike Mowbray
Cake 22 May 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 May Lead rpt
robint12 15 May 2nd
with Clive Phillips
with Clive Phillips
Joe90 14 May 2nd
ninjawil 14 May Lead O/S
with Joe90
with Joe90
Hidden 12 May 2nd O/S
badgerjockey 5 May Lead O/S Tough! I’d give it 5a. Admittedly it was cold, a bit green and my first grit climb in over a year but hey. Got some gear in behind a flake at the top of the slab off right of the route. Nice and powerful main flake. Correctly gave up trying to layaway rightwards quite soon!
with rjohnn
Tough! I’d give it 5a. Admittedly it was cold, a bit green and my first grit climb in over a year but hey. Got some gear in behind a flake at the top of the slab off right of the route. Nice and powerful main flake. Correctly gave up trying to layaway rightwards quite soon!
with rjohnn
Jim Slater 4 May Lead O/S Tough little climb at VS.
with rich_hw
Tough little climb at VS.
with rich_hw
nuts and bolts 29 Apr Lead dog
rickeden 2 Jan Lead O/S
mrphilipoldham 2 Jan 2nd rpt
Rocknast ?? Lead O/S
Ollie Wragg ?? Lead
Calum Wadsworth 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Tricky given the shape of the thing, difficult to layback when the overlap means there are no feet. Very worthwhile.
with Sam Ash
Tricky given the shape of the thing, difficult to layback when the overlap means there are no feet. Very worthwhile.
with Sam Ash
Sam Ash 7 Oct, 2018 2nd
bradleyrichards93 31 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
gritstone7 22 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
mrphilipoldham 8 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Very technical but on decent holds.
Very technical but on decent holds.
HenryMeier 8 Aug, 2018 2nd β
Alaister ?Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Hard for the grade, technique required
with GF
Hard for the grade, technique required
with GF
Mischa2912 31 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S
Struck Lucky 14 Jul, 2018 Lead Excellent lay backing on flake. 240cm sling around boulder for belay.
with James
Excellent lay backing on flake. 240cm sling around boulder for belay.
with James
Ross Philpot 1 Jul, 2018 2nd
with Jon Wilson
with Jon Wilson
Maddie 3 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jo T, Alun
with Jo T, Alun
Deezel65 12 May, 2018 2nd rpt
with jim182
with jim182
jim182 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Michael Morrell 10 May, 2018 Lead O/S Run out but good and a bit green.
Run out but good and a bit green.
topsyturvy 3 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
with Pero
with Pero
Pero 3 Oct, 2017 Lead Started up Great Slab.
Started up Great Slab.
royle883 26 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
The Grist 20 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with Lee Hamilton
with Lee Hamilton
FaffmasterG 1 Jul, 2017 2nd β
Lukem6 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Taichi
with Taichi
Shea 22 May, 2017 Solo O/S Soloed it at night while drunk. Interesting traverse to the start of the downclimb
Soloed it at night while drunk. Interesting traverse to the start of the downclimb
Roget 21 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
BlueJohn 13 May, 2017 Lead
with Tom
with Tom
Manc88 15 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 Lead
adi bryant ??, 2017 Lead rpt
with Ged
with Ged
Hidden 3 Jun, 2016 2nd
Stoff 30 May, 2016 2nd Awesome - delicate slab moves followed by strong moves on the flake. Well led by Andrew !
with Andrew
Awesome - delicate slab moves followed by strong moves on the flake. Well led by Andrew !
with Andrew
caradoc 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S Hard to read moves around the flake but still fair at VS.
with emma v.
Hard to read moves around the flake but still fair at VS.
with emma v.
Hidden 30 May, 2016 Lead
Mark67 30 May, 2016 2nd O/S
with Stoff, andrew
with Stoff, andrew
Hidden 20 May, 2016 Lead O/S
David Kay 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Moritz L 15 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Rafal Malczyk 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Istvan Bali, Michael Jenei
with Istvan Bali, Michael Jenei
john max 21 Apr, 2016 Lead
with Andy Prichard
with Andy Prichard
Txitxar ??, 2016 Lead
Hidden 1 Oct, 2015 Lead
ActionSte 1 Oct, 2015 -
gpcomps 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Very little protection on the slab, really enjoyed the move over the flake, as good as the Great Slab I reckon
Very little protection on the slab, really enjoyed the move over the flake, as good as the Great Slab I reckon
miketong 8 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with gpcomps
with gpcomps
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 Lead
Andrew Lodge 3 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Did the top section after coming up Sex Dwarves
with Pete, steveshaking
Did the top section after coming up Sex Dwarves
with Pete, steveshaking
DeanD 2 Aug, 2015 2nd RP
ian Wignall 19 Jul, 2015 Lead β
Marq 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
jamie ward 18 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Simon DNF finished up easy route to left
with Simon Gladstone
Simon DNF finished up easy route to left
with Simon Gladstone
GStone 18 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf
with Jamie Ward
with Jamie Ward
adi bryant 18 Jul, 2015 2nd rpt
Luke Jones 18 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Marq, LMC
with Marq, LMC
Andypeak 11 Jul, 2015 2nd
Pero 11 Jul, 2015 Lead
kez1 ?Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
with dale tomkinson, Andrew Boardman
with dale tomkinson, Andrew Boardman
ipfreely 24 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S With the great slab start.
With the great slab start.
cragtyke 24 Jun, 2015 2nd After Great Slab
After Great Slab
Hidden 21 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Stroppy 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
AidanG 18 Jun, 2015 Lead The flake is hard for VS but awesome the lower slab is unprotected but steady, yet still interesting!!!
The flake is hard for VS but awesome the lower slab is unprotected but steady, yet still interesting!!!
kermit_uk 7 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Capricorn One 4 Jun, 2015 Lead Backed off Bun Run (full of brambles) and battled up this instead.
with Pete PCC
Backed off Bun Run (full of brambles) and battled up this instead.
with Pete PCC
Hidden 27 May, 2015 Solo O/S
dbm 25 May, 2015 2nd dog Traversed from Great Slab. Needed to rest on rope to remove gear
with Ben H, TP
Traversed from Great Slab. Needed to rest on rope to remove gear
with Ben H, TP
Hidden 25 May, 2015 Lead dog
Bradbury 26 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 26 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
euge74 ??, 2015 Lead O/S Nice route - lower slab was fun and the flake is nice to!
Nice route - lower slab was fun and the flake is nice to!
Markheighton 23 Sep, 2014 2nd
Alex_Derbyshire 23 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
cdpuk 31 May, 2014 2nd O/S Nice moves over the flake. Don't bother with the normal Great Slab route. Do this with the Great Slab start.
Nice moves over the flake. Don't bother with the normal Great Slab route. Do this with the Great Slab start.
andyevans 31 May, 2014 2nd Do great slab first as the right side is dull. Good jams/laybacks on crux though!
with cdpuk
Do great slab first as the right side is dull. Good jams/laybacks on crux though!
with cdpuk
Bernie L 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
SuperLee1985 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S WOW! Hard, definitely the hardest route I've ever lead clean. But awesome stuff. It's all about the top section. I'd recommend the Great Slab start as this combines the best bits of both routes. I did the regular start (Stevie having previously lead great slab). This start is basically a 15m, thin, grubby, unprotected slab climb. I ended up following the arete rather than the true line of the crack and got a side runner in the crack to the right of the arete. The top section is what it is all about though. I did a bit of yo-yoing before i managed to work out the moves. There is a really nice left facing layback crack right next to the bottom of the flake, i went up this first, got my left foot on the good hold and rocked over, transfering to the flake but then I was a bit stuck. Decent holds for my right arm and left foot but nothing for my left arm and a sloping hold for my right foot meant i felt like i was going to barndoor if I committed to the move. i downclimbed to the ledge and had a couple more attempts. In my final and sucessfull attempt i stayed in the good layback crack till higher and then, keeping my body to the right got a jam in the bottom of the flake. This allowed me to get my left foot on the sloping hold and step my right up to the crucial right food hold. However just before i got my right on, my left foot slipped and i cut loose, somehow I managed to hold myself on the two jams i had and re-place my feet. I then thugged my way to the top of the flake and did the worlds most inelegant desperate mantleshelf/bellyflop to gain the ledge on top of the flake. The rest of the route was straightforward.
WOW! Hard, definitely the hardest route I've ever lead clean. But awesome stuff. It's all about the top section. I'd recommend the Great Slab start as this combines the best bits of both routes. I did the regular start (Stevie having previously lead great slab). This start is basically a 15m, thin, grubby, unprotected slab climb. I ended up following the arete rather than the true line of the crack and got a side runner in the crack to the right of the arete. The top section is what it is all about though. I did a bit of yo-yoing before i managed to work out the moves. There is a really nice left facing layback crack right next to the bottom of the flake, i went up this first, got my left foot on the good hold and rocked over, transfering to the flake but then I was a bit stuck. Decent holds for my right arm and left foot but nothing for my left arm and a sloping hold for my right foot meant i felt like i was going to barndoor if I committed to the move. i downclimbed to the ledge and had a couple more attempts. In my final and sucessfull attempt i stayed in the good layback crack till higher and then, keeping my body to the right got a jam in the bottom of the flake. This allowed me to get my left foot on the sloping hold and step my right up to the crucial right food hold. However just before i got my right on, my left foot slipped and i cut loose, somehow I managed to hold myself on the two jams i had and re-place my feet. I then thugged my way to the top of the flake and did the worlds most inelegant desperate mantleshelf/bellyflop to gain the ledge on top of the flake. The rest of the route was straightforward.
StevieLee ?May, 2014 2nd dog
treg 6 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Combined with the Great Slab start, makes a well worthwhile climb. The layback is fine once you get into it, it was just getting the right foot up that caused problems.
with Bird
Combined with the Great Slab start, makes a well worthwhile climb. The layback is fine once you get into it, it was just getting the right foot up that caused problems.
with Bird
monkeyme2 18 Sep, 2013 2nd
GermanAlex 18 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Laybacking up the flake felt very off balance, maybe not the ideal warmup route. Very nice otherwise!
Laybacking up the flake felt very off balance, maybe not the ideal warmup route. Very nice otherwise!
chrisbussell 3 Sep, 2013 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
with Tim O'Neill
therat 1 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
gavster 14 Jul, 2013 2nd
with kev
with kev
nickosteo ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
cpoad 26 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Clare F, John S
with Clare F, John S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 Lead
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
ajc 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Morri
with Morri
djones66 26 May, 2013 2nd O/S This is well worthwhile route, just for the flake bit. Better than many routes that get stars in the guide books. Finish is a bit grotty but you can't have it all.
with Stve mc D
This is well worthwhile route, just for the flake bit. Better than many routes that get stars in the guide books. Finish is a bit grotty but you can't have it all.
with Stve mc D
RossT 17 May, 2013 Lead
with Tim Bee
with Tim Bee
Martin Brierley 17 May, 2013 2nd
beth.westonhoward 28 Apr, 2013 2nd
with Verity
with Verity
hlegge 28 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S fantastic delicate but bold move when changing layback diretion and tiptoeing up the small footholds
with Beth Howard
fantastic delicate but bold move when changing layback diretion and tiptoeing up the small footholds
with Beth Howard
Hidden 28 Apr, 2013 Lead dog
tsl42 21 Apr, 2013 2nd dog Had to go on rope to get cam out. Think would of got otherwise.
Had to go on rope to get cam out. Think would of got otherwise.
pbuggy91 21 Apr, 2013 Lead dog
SteveM 20 Apr, 2013 Lead
kitkat78 20 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
with SteveM
with SteveM
Jake Young 17 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with lbarras
with lbarras
lbarras 17 Apr, 2013 2nd dog
Hidden 31 Mar, 2013 Lead rpt
Mongoose 23 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Sep, 2012 Lead
taff raymond 9 Sep, 2012 Lead
khalidq 18 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Started on Great Slab - excellent then moved over to Lorica. Had to down climb once to do the flake but got there in the end!
with Binder
Started on Great Slab - excellent then moved over to Lorica. Had to down climb once to do the flake but got there in the end!
with Binder
Binder 18 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S First part of Great Slab, then across for the good bit of Lorica.
with khalidq
First part of Great Slab, then across for the good bit of Lorica.
with khalidq
Nigel Bond 9 Aug, 2012 2nd
with Bern Hardman
with Bern Hardman
adi bryant 11 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S There was me faffing around, failing to make the hard bit's gear easy to deal with and then Mol just stormed it, landing on the ledge with a grin.
There was me faffing around, failing to make the hard bit's gear easy to deal with and then Mol just stormed it, landing on the ledge with a grin.
Deezel65 28 May, 2012 Lead O/S Cool and intimidating bit of lay backing but on bomber gear
Cool and intimidating bit of lay backing but on bomber gear
Hidden 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2012 2nd
Fragmod 13 May, 2012 Lead
AlexKervyn 13 May, 2012 2nd RP The flake is all bark and no bite- once you can reach to the top or the back, basically a pullup. Wiped out on the slab as my first move. Smooth. Knees still hate me for wearing shorts.
The flake is all bark and no bite- once you can reach to the top or the back, basically a pullup. Wiped out on the slab as my first move. Smooth. Knees still hate me for wearing shorts.
Hidden 17 Mar, 2012 2nd
the power 17 Mar, 2012 2nd 3rd
3rd
Ardo 17 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
CSmithy ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Sep, 2011 2nd
Oceanic 28 Aug, 2011 -
lozowen 1 Jul, 2011 Lead
with Chris Howard
with Chris Howard
monkeyme2 4 Jun, 2011 2nd dnf
with seb
with seb
Danny Boy Dunbar 18 Sep, 2010 2nd
with Dave Gleave, Danny Bucknole
with Dave Gleave, Danny Bucknole
Hidden 25 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
hellboundblr 3 Jul, 2010 2nd Great Slab with Lorica finish.
with john_ni
Great Slab with Lorica finish.
with john_ni
john_ni 3 Jul, 2010 Lead dog via Great Slab then traversed onto flake. Flake needs the right approach & balance, backed down a few steps for rest after placing gear then led. A stiff VS.
via Great Slab then traversed onto flake. Flake needs the right approach & balance, backed down a few steps for rest after placing gear then led. A stiff VS.
RockaJo 5 Jun, 2010 2nd dog Hard start. Only 2 places for marginal protection high up at the start and almost non-existant "holds" on he slab start. Satisfying to complete but would have been very scary leading it!
with Mikael
Hard start. Only 2 places for marginal protection high up at the start and almost non-existant "holds" on he slab start. Satisfying to complete but would have been very scary leading it!
with Mikael
MikaelW 5 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S hard for the grade - great route!
with Jo
hard for the grade - great route!
with Jo
Jonathan Hall 4 Jun, 2010 Solo
Anthony mccourt 23 May, 2010 2nd β
Anthony mccourt 23 May, 2010 2nd β
philgeorge999 15 May, 2010 2nd dog The flake was tough to work out but the moves were nice once I had
The flake was tough to work out but the moves were nice once I had
smolders 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Phil G
with Phil G
Hidden 6 May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 6 May, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 25 Apr, 2010 2nd
matt.jj 24 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S The start of this is fairly straight forward, the flake section however is something else. Well protected but very committing, and a lot of fun. quite a pumpy series of moves to climb the flake and get on top. Once you have the climbing is thankfully straightforward again. compared to other VS climbs, including at Millstone this is high in the grade. A good intro to HVS routes.
The start of this is fairly straight forward, the flake section however is something else. Well protected but very committing, and a lot of fun. quite a pumpy series of moves to climb the flake and get on top. Once you have the climbing is thankfully straightforward again. compared to other VS climbs, including at Millstone this is high in the grade. A good intro to HVS routes.
Hidden 10 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
Dave Mahon ?Apr, 2010 2nd gripping crux
with matt.jj
gripping crux
with matt.jj
Oliver Houston 19 Mar, 2010 2nd
Ollie B 9 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
katyvose1 ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
smallerrich 12 Sep, 2009 Solo O/S
with Ollie Wragg
with Ollie Wragg
Hidden 6 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
ebf 5 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S Also did the Great Slab start with traverse right to Lorica flake. A worthy route in its own right and a little bit easier than the direct route, which is a (hard) VS, although not HVS!
with pastep
Also did the Great Slab start with traverse right to Lorica flake. A worthy route in its own right and a little bit easier than the direct route, which is a (hard) VS, although not HVS!
with pastep
pastep 5 Sep, 2009 Lead
with ebf
with ebf
stevepotter 28 Jun, 2009 Lead
with ken
with ken
Oceanic 26 Apr, 2009 -
psronan 26 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jun, 2008 2nd
roberto18 15 May, 2008 2nd
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Sean Kelly ??, 2008 -
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
PanzerHanzler 7 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with Martin Hore
with Martin Hore
Hidden 26 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
Eccentric 26 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S Nice route, with a great move up the flake, found hard compared to previous VS routes but plenty of gear about.
with Bunchuk
Nice route, with a great move up the flake, found hard compared to previous VS routes but plenty of gear about.
with Bunchuk
Hidden 7 Apr, 2007 2nd
steveb2006 30 Sep, 2006 Lead Lead after Val backs off - bit green
Lead after Val backs off - bit green
andybeanland 23 Sep, 2006 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 ?Sep, 2006 Solo O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2006 2nd
Hidden 27 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jul, 2006 Lead
greg101 29 Jul, 2006 Lead
with Matt O'Connor
with Matt O'Connor
liamoloughlin ?Jun, 2006 Lead
Sidekick 14 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
sdht ??, 2006 -
Adam Potter 11 May, 2005 2nd
Hidden ??, 2005 2nd
Smelly Fox 3 Aug, 2004 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 16 Sep, 2003 2nd O/S
Hidden 1 Sep, 2002 2nd O/S
cem 18 Jul, 2002 2nd
with Rod Strachan
with Rod Strachan
DerwentDiluted 8 Jul, 2002 Lead
Hidden ??, 2002 -
marcoleptic ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Banjo
with Banjo
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead
Phill Mitch ??, 1999 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ??, 1999 -
cragspud ??, 1998 Lead O/S
BruceW ??, 1997 Lead O/S Sometime in the 90's
Sometime in the 90's
thinair48 ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
craig d ??, 1992 -
Chris Ellis 12 Sep, 1991 Lead
with Paul Farmer
with Paul Farmer
Martin Bennett 30 Jun, 1991 -
with Tim
with Tim
tapley 1 Oct, 1989 Lead
Hidden ?Sep, 1986 Lead O/S
steve prior ?Aug, 1986 Lead
with Paul L
with Paul L
Ian Clare ??, 1986 -
Neil R 2 Jun, 1985 2nd
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Rob Seymour 27 Aug, 1984 Solo
Tom V ??, 1984 -
Rob Seymour 12 Aug, 1982 Lead O/S
with Duncan Jennings, Jim Seymour, Stu Mackay
with Duncan Jennings, Jim Seymour, Stu Mackay
Dave Musgrove 28 Mar, 1982 AltLd
Ian Jones ??, 1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
babymoac 13 Jun, 1981 Lead
with MTW
with MTW
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1981 Lead
mark-abz 16 Sep, 1980 Lead
with Rob S
with Rob S
Neil McA 21 Jul, 1980 Lead
with Andrew Gomersell
with Andrew Gomersell
Andy Fielding ??, 1980 2nd
Hidden 27 May, 1978 2nd
Mark Kemball 9 May, 1978 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
with Sarah Bridge
Hidden 9 Jun, 1977 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 1977 2nd
DonnyDave 10 May, 1977 Lead
with Steve Holgarth
with Steve Holgarth
Al Evans ??, 1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??, 1974 Lead
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 42
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set