Rockfax Description
Climb the delicate thin crack near the right edge of the slab and the short-lived but gripping curving flake above which definitely looks detached! Finish up the short crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

topsyturvy 03/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with Pero
Pero 03/Oct/17 Lead

Started up Great Slab.

royle883 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S
The Grist 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Lee Hamilton
GregClixby 01/Jul/17 2nd β
with Jaime
Lukem6 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Taichi
Shea 22/May/17 Solo O/S

Soloed it at night while drunk. Interesting traverse to the start of the downclimb

Roget 21/May/17 Lead O/S
with jim
BlueJohn 13/May/17 Lead
with Tom
Manc88 15/Apr/17 2nd O/S
quickdrawmcraw 08/Apr/17 Lead
with mike foxall, Amy121
adi bryant ??/2017 Lead rpt
with Ged
Hidden 03/Jun/16 2nd
Stoff 30/May/16 2nd

Awesome - delicate slab moves followed by strong moves on the flake. Well led by Andrew !

with Andrew
caradoc 30/May/16 Lead O/S

Hard to read moves around the flake but still fair at VS.

with emma v.
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead
Mark Loveday 30/May/16 2nd O/S
with Chris Bridgland, andrew
Hidden 20/May/16 Lead O/S
David Kay 15/May/16 Lead O/S
Moritz L 15/May/16 2nd O/S
Rafal Malczyk 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with Istvan Bali, Michael Jenei
john max 21/Apr/16 Lead
with Andy Prichard
Txitxar ??/2016 Lead
quickdrawmcraw 01/Oct/15 Lead
with steve j
ActionSte 01/Oct/15 -
gpcomps 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Very little protection on the slab, really enjoyed the move over the flake, as good as the Great Slab I reckon

miketong 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/15 Lead
Andrew Lodge 03/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Did the top section after coming up Sex Dwarves

with Pete, Steve
DeanD 02/Aug/15 2nd RP
ian Wignall 19/Jul/15 Lead β
Marq 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
jamie ward 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Simon DNF finished up easy route to left

with Simon Gladstone
GStone 18/Jul/15 Lead dnf
with Jamie Ward
adi bryant 18/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Luke Jones 18/Jul/15 2nd
with Marq, LMC
Andypeak 11/Jul/15 2nd
Pero 11/Jul/15 Lead
kez1 ?/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with dale tomkinson, Andrew Boardman
Hidden 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
cragtyke 24/Jun/15 2nd

After Great Slab

with Chris
Alex the Alex 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Ed
Stroppy 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
AidanG 18/Jun/15 Lead

The flake is hard for VS but awesome the lower slab is unprotected but steady, yet still interesting!!!

kermit_uk 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Capricorn One 04/Jun/15 Lead

Backed off Bun Run (full of brambles) and battled up this instead.

with Pete PCC
Hidden 27/May/15 Solo O/S
dbm 25/May/15 2nd dog

Traversed from Great Slab. Needed to rest on rope to remove gear

with Ben H, Tom P
TP 25/May/15 Lead dog
with Ben H, Dave M
Bradbury 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
euge74 ??/2015 Lead O/S

Nice route - lower slab was fun and the flake is nice to!

Markheighton 23/Sep/14 2nd
Alex_Derbyshire 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S
cdpuk 31/May/14 2nd O/S

Nice moves over the flake. Don't bother with the normal Great Slab route. Do this with the Great Slab start.

andyevans 31/May/14 2nd

Do great slab first as the right side is dull. Good jams/laybacks on crux though!

with cdpuk
Bernie L 31/May/14 Lead O/S
SuperLee1985 05/May/14 Lead O/S

WOW! Hard, definitely the hardest route I've ever lead clean. But awesome stuff. It's all about the top section. I'd recommend the Great Slab start as this combines the best bits of both routes. I did the regular start (Stevie having previously lead great slab). This start is basically a 15m, thin, grubby, unprotected slab climb. I ended up following the arete rather than the true line of the crack and got a side runner in the crack to the right of the arete. The top section is what it is all about though. I did a bit of yo-yoing before i managed to work out the moves. There is a really nice left facing layback crack right next to the bottom of the flake, i went up this first, got my left foot on the good hold and rocked over, transfering to the flake but then I was a bit stuck. Decent holds for my right arm and left foot but nothing for my left arm and a sloping hold for my right foot meant i felt like i was going to barndoor if I committed to the move. i downclimbed to the ledge and had a couple more attempts. In my final and sucessfull attempt i stayed in the good layback crack till higher and then, keeping my body to the right got a jam in the bottom of the flake. This allowed me to get my left foot on the sloping hold and step my right up to the crucial right food hold. However just before i got my right on, my left foot slipped and i cut loose, somehow I managed to hold myself on the two jams i had and re-place my feet. I then thugged my way to the top of the flake and did the worlds most inelegant desperate mantleshelf/bellyflop to gain the ledge on top of the flake. The rest of the route was straightforward.

StevieLee ?/May/14 2nd dog
treg 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Combined with the Great Slab start, makes a well worthwhile climb. The layback is fine once you get into it, it was just getting the right foot up that caused problems.

with Bird
Hidden 18/Sep/13 2nd
GermanAlex 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Laybacking up the flake felt very off balance, maybe not the ideal warmup route. Very nice otherwise!

with Robby
chrisbussell 03/Sep/13 Lead
with Tim O'Neill
therat 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
gavster 14/Jul/13 2nd
with kev
nickosteo ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
cpoad 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Clare F, John S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
ajc 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Morri
djones66 26/May/13 2nd O/S

This is well worthwhile route, just for the flake bit. Better than many routes that get stars in the guide books. Finish is a bit grotty but you can't have it all.

with Stve mc D
RossT 17/May/13 Lead
with Tim Bee
Martin Brierley 17/May/13 2nd
beth.westonhoward 28/Apr/13 2nd
hlegge 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S

fantastic delicate but bold move when changing layback diretion and tiptoeing up the small footholds

with Beth Howard
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
tsl42 21/Apr/13 2nd dog

Had to go on rope to get cam out. Think would of got otherwise.

pbuggy91 21/Apr/13 Lead dog
SteveM 20/Apr/13 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with SteveM
Jake Young 17/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Laura
lbarras 17/Apr/13 2nd dog
with jake
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Mongoose 23/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
taff raymond 09/Sep/12 Lead
khalidq 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Started on Great Slab - excellent then moved over to Lorica. Had to down climb once to do the flake but got there in the end!

Binder 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S

First part of Great Slab, then across for the good bit of Lorica.

Nigel Bond 09/Aug/12 2nd
with Bern Hardman
adi bryant 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S

There was me faffing around, failing to make the hard bit's gear easy to deal with and then Mol just stormed it, landing on the ledge with a grin.

Deezel65 28/May/12 Lead O/S

Cool and intimidating bit of lay backing but on bomber gear

Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd
Fragmod 13/May/12 Lead
AlexKervyn 13/May/12 2nd RP

The flake is all bark and no bite- once you can reach to the top or the back, basically a pullup. Wiped out on the slab as my first move. Smooth. Knees still hate me for wearing shorts.

Hidden 17/Mar/12 2nd
the power 17/Mar/12 2nd


Ardo 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
CSmithy ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/11 2nd
Oceanic 28/Aug/11 -
lozowen 01/Jul/11 Lead
with Chris Howard
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd dnf
Danny Boy Dunbar 18/Sep/10 2nd
with Dave Gleave, Danny Bucknole
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
hellboundblr 03/Jul/10 2nd

Great Slab with Lorica finish.

john_ni 03/Jul/10 Lead dog

via Great Slab then traversed onto flake. Flake needs the right approach & balance, backed down a few steps for rest after placing gear then led. A stiff VS.

RockaJo 05/Jun/10 2nd dog

Hard start. Only 2 places for marginal protection high up at the start and almost non-existant "holds" on he slab start. Satisfying to complete but would have been very scary leading it!

with Mikael
MikaelW 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

hard for the grade - great route!

with Jo
Jonathan Hall 04/Jun/10 Solo
Anthony mccourt 23/May/10 2nd β
Anthony mccourt 23/May/10 2nd β
philgeorge999 15/May/10 2nd dog

The flake was tough to work out but the moves were nice once I had

smolders 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Phil G
Hidden 06/May/10 2nd
Hidden 06/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Apr/10 2nd
matt.jj 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

The start of this is fairly straight forward, the flake section however is something else. Well protected but very committing, and a lot of fun. quite a pumpy series of moves to climb the flake and get on top. Once you have the climbing is thankfully straightforward again. compared to other VS climbs, including at Millstone this is high in the grade. A good intro to HVS routes.

Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Dave Mahon ?/Apr/10 2nd

gripping crux

Oliver Houston 19/Mar/10 2nd
Ollie B 09/Mar/10 Lead O/S
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
smallerrich 12/Sep/09 Solo O/S
with Ollie Wragg
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
ebf 05/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Also did the Great Slab start with traverse right to Lorica flake. A worthy route in its own right and a little bit easier than the direct route, which is a (hard) VS, although not HVS!

pastep 05/Sep/09 Lead
with ebf
stevepotter 28/Jun/09 Lead
with ken
Oceanic 26/Apr/09 -
psronan 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/08 2nd
roberto18 15/May/08 2nd
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
PanzerHanzler 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Eccentric 26/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Nice route, with a great move up the flake, found hard compared to previous VS routes but plenty of gear about.

with Bunchuk
Hidden 07/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Lead
andybeanland 23/Sep/06 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead
greg101 29/Jul/06 Lead
with Matt O'Connor
liamoloughlin ?/Jun/06 Lead
Sidekick 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
sdht ??/2006 -
Adam Potter 11/May/05 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Smelly Fox 03/Aug/04 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 16/Sep/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/02 2nd O/S
cem 18/Jul/02 2nd
with Rod Strachan
DerwentDiluted 08/Jul/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Banjo
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Phill Mitch ??/1999 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ??/1999 -
cragspud ??/1998 Lead O/S
BruceW ??/1997 Lead O/S

Sometime in the 90's

thinair48 ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
craig d ??/1992 -
Chris Ellis 12/Sep/91 Lead
with Paul Farmer
Martin Bennett 30/Jun/91 -
with Tim
tapley 01/Oct/89 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/86 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/86 Lead
Ian Clare ??/1986 -
Neil R 02/Jun/85 2nd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Tom V ??/1984 -
Dave Musgrove 28/Mar/82 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
babymoac 13/Jun/81 Lead
with MTW
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
mark-abz 16/Sep/80 Lead
with Rob S
Neil McA 21/Jul/80 Lead
with Andrew Gomersell
Andy Fielding ??/1980 2nd
Hidden 27/May/78 2nd
Mark Kemball 09/May/78 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
Hidden 09/Jun/77 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/77 2nd
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1974 Lead
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 38
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set