Rockfax Description
III, 400m, 4 -5 hours. A good line which is slightly let down by the fact that the technicalities are only brief. In good conditions the whole route will be névé, or even ice, but when conditions are snowy, the upper snow slopes will be tough to protect. Climb 80m of snow to belay beneath the gully.
Approach - When the Glacier du Tour is well filled in, it should be possible to cross it more or less directly to reach the foot of the route. When heavily crevassed, either follow the Forbes Arête approach to the rocks at Pte. 3238m and then head straight for the route from here (move quickly under the seracs). Alternatively, cross the glacier lower down in the direction of the Col du Passon and then climb to the routes past the Aiguille du Passon.
1) Climb two 80-85 degree mixed pitches through the lower rock band. There are rock belays but the climbing will be quite technical in anything other than fat conditions.
2) 100m of 60 degree snow/ice leads to easier-angled snow slopes above.
3) Follow the snow slope to join the top of the Migot Spur and continue up this to the summit.
Descent - From the summit, descend the southwest ridge for 20m to reach the top of a wide 40-45 degree snow couloir dropping down on the right. Descend this, ideally on foot but abseiling from spikes if conditions are bad, sticking to the right (when looking down) as far as possible until you reach a saddle. The couloir is perched above a cliff band so take care and keep concentrating all the way down. From the saddle, continue down the vague ridge crest to reach the top of an abseil line down through a cliff band. There are numerous anchors dotted around but the ones marked on the © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
New alpine grade: III AI4+. Obvious line going straight up the north face of the Chardonnet.

Jean Aureille & Y Feutren Jul/1942

Ticklists: Chamonix Winter Ideas.

alexm198 05/Nov/15 AltLd dnf

Shut down on the lower pitches by rotten, poorly bonded placage.

Hidden 05/Nov/15 AltLd dnf
Hidden 28/Sep/15 AltLd dnf
David Horwood 10/Sep/10 -
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
laurent 19/Oct/08 AltLd

Start of the gully was thin. Good ice after that.

with Ben
Gudge ?/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
1202alarm ??/2002 -
innes ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S

a good route. Enduro ice @ Scottish IV , if that makes sense?

with Rich Cross
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