Rockfax Description
The off-width crack at the right-hand side of the wall leads to a small overhang - big cams and big hams help. The wall above the overhang is much easier and the exit is loose. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. Jim Campbell 1967

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Millstone HVS's, WideBoyz Crack School, Millstone * HVS In a day, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***.

Hidden 05/Jul Lead
islandlynx 13/May Lead rpt

fell on this when it was my first attempt at a jamming crack a few years ago. Easier this time though there was a slip of sorts at the bottom

Horton 13/May Lead dnf

Made me angry (and bloody)

with Shane
Hidden 01/May 2nd
Metalbear ?/May 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr Lead O/S
wil_perry 22/Apr 2nd
daviesp2 15/Apr 2nd dog
with Ollie
Hidden 15/Apr 2nd O/S
PaulTanton 08/Apr Lead O/S
with Francis Butler
catrin289 08/Apr 2nd dog

Need to learn to climb off width cracks

with Jake
Jim Slater 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Paul Figg 25/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 02/Sep/16 2nd
Andrew Barker 01/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Chris M
Hidden 22/May/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/May/16 Lead
Horton 01/May/16 2nd dog
TomRiddelsdell 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with AmyDeath, Shane Williams
morganator 13/Apr/16 Solo O/S
FlavioL1989 17/Oct/15 Lead G/U
planetmarshall 11/Oct/15 2nd

Fierce, though Clive made it look easy with his massive off-width hands. I had to layback the lower portion. A bit sandy in places and could benefit from more traffic, which it deserves.

with Clive Betteridge
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead
Graeme Hammond 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S

put this off for year, but really enjoyed, great route worth 2** s

rich_hw 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mike
max_chan 16/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Vnockles 11/Jul/15 2nd

Reachy getting out of the corner on to the face

with Mark Stevenson
Hidden 28/Jun/15 Lead O/S
duncan 28/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Jun/15 Lead
djones66 07/Jun/15 2nd

Good stuff! But... l have small hands so couldnt get any jams into the lower crack. Had to lay off it to the right - decidedly precarious. Brilliant jams on the 'crux' sequence.

with Stve mc D
MYox 05/Jun/15 2nd dog

Actually quite good. And great jamming practice . Fell at the overhang but was tired.

with Trevor
Dibdawg 15/May/15 Lead dog

Unexpected slip and a blown o/s.

with Richard Snow
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 20/Mar/15 2nd

Went for lead but couldnt get the jams in lowercrack. Laybacked up it on the right on second. Precarious and sustained above.

Andy Peak 1 20/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 26/Oct/14 2nd dog

I found the start distinctly unpleasant. Hung on a cam to remove the nut Jamie fell on - required 2 hands and a proper hammering.

with Jamie R
zcsharp 26/Oct/14 Lead dog

Fell on coming through the overhang, once i had a few attempts it wasn't too bad.

mark4344 14/Sep/14 Lead dog

brutal jamming, felt tough for grade.

with Matt Payne
robgixer 13/Sep/14 2nd β
Leo Woodhead 03/Aug/14 2nd dog

Found this harder than Regent street which I did straight after. Obviously two very different routes. It really shows that I need to get some off width/fist jamming practice!

with Jim Rogers
islandlynx 02/Jul/14 Lead dog

Rest route, just fist jamming with my fat hands. Fell on crux coming out of the little roof

jonleighton 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd dog
Brannock 01/Jun/14 Lead

Harder than regent street? Classic grit sandbag HVS.

alexjz 22/Mar/14 Lead RP

I can't do fist jams very well. Nice route

eel 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd
uphillnow ??/2014 -
amccann 06/Oct/13 2nd β
tprebs 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S

classic grit hvs

with John O'Hara, Tim O Hanrahan
Lenny 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Awesome Route..

with Kev
shouter 24/Jul/13 Lead
Andy Fielding 30/Jun/13 Lead
with Mike Walton
will9911 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
MikeLeeds 19/May/13 2nd O/S

Horrible, brutal

Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
henry peter jenkins 06/May/13 2nd
with jake mcmanus, robbie jenkins
will_benfold 04/May/13 Lead dnf
spacecadetjake 01/May/13 2nd dnf

Awesome Crack, got past the roof and fell too many times. Brutal

with henry peter jenkins, Robbie jenkins
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead
ejected ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle 21/Oct/12 Lead
Kirill 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Very good.

cem 20/Oct/12 2nd rpt

As unpleasant as ever

sopaz 29/Sep/12 2nd
danfitz 10/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Georgie Smith
R0bbie 11/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 09/Jul/12 Lead
Dave Foster 18/Mar/12 2nd O/S

One of 'those' HVS'. Butch, Burly, Barbaric - but quite good.

with Robin
robin_hackney 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

What a pig! Awkward.

mike lawrence? 01/Mar/12 Lead
with luca
Pete Graham 01/Mar/12 2nd
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Paul1 02/Dec/11 2nd

Tryed to lead thinking it looked easyer than it was. Seconded clean.

with Nick
knicos 02/Dec/11 Lead
with Paul Salmon
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
lozowen 01/Jul/11 Lead
with Chris Howard
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/May/11 2nd dnf
PAJames ??/2011 -
riddle 09/Oct/10 Lead dog
rustaldo 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S

a tough climb to crack, "bovine-jams" as the book describes is very accurate! dodgy onsight.

with Al
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
r@bag 28/Aug/10 2nd dog
The Mountain Goat 28/Aug/10 2nd dnf
Somerset swede basher 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S


with Jon Miles and Lawrence
Tightsgirl 17/Aug/10 2nd
with German Mountain Joe, Emily Anniballi
Pown 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 15/Jun/10 2nd β
with Colin Struthers
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd
Andrew Sloan 11/Apr/10 Lead dog

I'd give this E1 5c, an absolute pig.

simonp ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Nate Mcmullen
gronbech 28/Mar/10 Lead dog
with Tom
Ewano ??/2010 TR
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 15/Oct/09 2nd O/S
melonmike 15/Oct/09 2nd
with Big Steve, Jack Metcalfe
PeteH 05/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Pretty pumpy! Shame about the top-out.

with Brad Cain
jonka ?/Sep/09 Lead
with mark
mark sadler ?/Sep/09 2nd
with john
jchenoweth 15/Aug/09 Lead dog
with Tash
tigertim 13/Aug/09 2nd
with Tony Payne, Dave Reeve
Dave Reeve 13/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
metal arms 11/Apr/09 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
summo ??/2009 -
john lynch 17/Oct/08 Lead
with Lewis Andrew
clive-greenwood 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Rachael Barlow 29/Aug/08 2nd
with Phil Robins
Hidden 11/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
Mick r 10/Feb/08 Lead dog

why did I choose this as my first route of the year - horrible

Alex Mason 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S

lead on micks gear burly hvs

with mick radford
roberto18 ??/2008 -
kingholmesy ??/2008 2nd O/S
with SJD
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
marceli 11/Nov/07 Lead dog
with majkel
Rob Davies 25/Aug/07 2nd

Left this to Phil - fist jams seem to get harder. Might be 5a only if you have very big hands, otherwise a struggle

with Phil Ashton
Andrew Sloan 29/Jul/07 Lead dog
Hidden 22/May/07 Lead dnf
Whitt 10/Mar/07 TR RP
with (Shunted)
chrisbevins ??/2007 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
adam carless 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Big fists and forearms are definitely an advantage for the first crack. Top is very loose.

SecretSquirrel 29/Oct/06 2nd
John Marsland 16/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with Goi
goi.ashmore 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with John Marsland
Hidden 22/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/06 2nd
Nicos 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
reg_measures 14/May/06 Lead rpt
with Richard Sharpe
dan gibson 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
AJ007 14/Mar/06 Lead
with Dan
Hidden 11/Feb/06 Lead
Brown 20/Jan/06 2nd
with Henry
UndercoverElephant ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 29/Oct/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/05 2nd
Adam Potter 23/Apr/05 AltLd dog

Lead 1st half. 2nd the second half

Mark Stevenson 28/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Dave Walker
Hidden 18/Sep/04 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
lukea 12/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with shannon
Budge 13/May/04 Lead O/S
nickdonohue ?/May/04 2nd
with Jim Barradale
Rik Dawes ??/2004 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 07/Aug/03 Lead
with Bill Wheeler
Leofallon 28/Jun/03 2nd
nbotting ??/2003 -
reg_measures 12/Oct/02 Lead dog

one rest

with hugh thomas
Hidden ??/2002 -
martroberts ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
cem 29/Apr/01 Lead dog
with Miles Butteriss
Roget 28/Aug/00 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Dave
ArnaudG ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/94 Lead
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
AB1965 21/Jul/92 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/91 2nd O/S
lithos ?/Aug/90 2nd
with mark planner
phil64 ??/1990 Lead O/S
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
surfbish ?/Apr/88 Lead O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Rob Davies 25/May/87 Lead
Steve Crowe 16/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/87 Lead
steve taylor ??/1987 Lead
Pete Pozman 07/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with John Byrne
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Tom V ??/1984 -
charlesmfrench 29/May/83 Lead O/S
Gezzer ??/1983 -
with Andy Towne
TonyF 01/May/82 Lead O/S
with George Fowler, Alistair Gordon, Tony Cox
Andy Nicholson ?/May/82 2nd O/S
with Chez
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
babymoac 13/Jun/81 Lead
with MTW
Hidden 20/Apr/80 2nd
Hidden 02/Mar/80 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
duncan ?/Apr/79 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 26/Jun/77 AltLd
Mark Kemball 27/Nov/76 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1976 -
petemeads 16/Mar/74 Lead
Hidden ??/1967 2nd
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Votes cast 37
High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set