20m.

Rockfax Description
Climb to the overhang and layback through it via a finger-crack to easier ground - awkward gear. Spoilt by a grotty exit. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Reading 1975

Ticklists

Millstone HVS's, Millstone * HVS In a day, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***

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UserDateNotes
Jon Greengrass 9 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Sustained and fingery to the overlap then big jugs arrive and a rest on a pedestal. The top out is scary, some lower off bolts at the top of the head wall would make it more sporting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sustained and fingery to the overlap then big jugs arrive and a rest on a pedestal. The top out is scary, some lower off bolts at the top of the head wall would make it more sporting.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
robgixer 19 May Lead rpt
CharleyAnn 19 May 2nd
choose colour 20 Apr TR O/S After climbing Shaftesbury avenue dicided to "modify" the route grabbing the underside of the overhang in a layback and then reaching for the far right crack line with righthand (if short opportunity for a cheeky kneebar to extend reach) Before moving left hand up to the crack above the offwidth. Once completing this section carry on as Shaftesbury Avenue.
After climbing Shaftesbury avenue dicided to "modify" the route grabbing the underside of the overhang in a layback and then reaching for the far right crack line with righthand (if short opportunity for a cheeky kneebar to extend reach) Before moving left hand up to the crack above the offwidth. Once completing this section carry on as Shaftesbury Avenue.
Simon King 9 Apr Lead rpt
Ollie Wragg ?? Lead
Teappleby 22 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
cragsman9000 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with bob_cbr
with bob_cbr
rwking 12 Jun, 2018 Lead
steve_yo 22 Apr, 2018 Lead
Ricky Rocks 22 Apr, 2018 2nd
phil64 19 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Techy
with nick gillett
Techy
with nick gillett
steveb2006 26 Sep, 2017 Lead Good climbing, but finish precarious (probably would have been best to step R into Gimcrack finish).
Good climbing, but finish precarious (probably would have been best to step R into Gimcrack finish).
GeorgiePorgie1 24 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf Strongly agree with the awkward gear bit!!! Grossly underestimated this climb and paid the price by decking from under the overhang...!!! Didn't bring enough variety of/adequate gear and it seemed none of my nuts were the right size. Needs offset nuts as well as some minicams to make this work. Some day I may...
with robsway
Strongly agree with the awkward gear bit!!! Grossly underestimated this climb and paid the price by decking from under the overhang...!!! Didn't bring enough variety of/adequate gear and it seemed none of my nuts were the right size. Needs offset nuts as well as some minicams to make this work. Some day I may...
with robsway
nickhamb 20 Jul, 2017 Lead dog Got too pumped and panicked just as I got over the overhang. Should have kept my wits and would have seen the big side pull just above me. Shame (was the last climb of the day too so might have been too tired). The rest of the climb was straight forward. Awesome route.
Got too pumped and panicked just as I got over the overhang. Should have kept my wits and would have seen the big side pull just above me. Shame (was the last climb of the day too so might have been too tired). The rest of the climb was straight forward. Awesome route.
Hidden 8 Jul, 2017 Lead
Amy121 8 Jul, 2017 2nd
ashtond6 2 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Mr Wild 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Tricky start. Fine once crack proper is reached.
with MNA123
Tricky start. Fine once crack proper is reached.
with MNA123
melv 23 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt
with Fi
with Fi
Mike505 14 Oct, 2016 2nd RP
Afell 9 Oct, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 2 Sep, 2016 2nd
Andrew Barker 1 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Chris M
with Chris M
Andy Peak 1 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S Utterly brilyant every hvs leader needs this in ther lives ;-)
Utterly brilyant every hvs leader needs this in ther lives ;-)
DHHZ 30 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
morganator 13 Apr, 2016 Solo O/S
ian d f 11 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
with Mark S, Tor
with Mark S, Tor
Mark Stevenson 11 Jul, 2015 Lead
Hidden 28 Jun, 2015 2nd β
duncan 28 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Andy Fielding 19 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
with Mike Walton, goddamm7
with Mike Walton, goddamm7
goddamm7 19 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
with mike walton, Andy Fielding
with mike walton, Andy Fielding
robgixer 13 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf
Robin Nichols 5 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
with Jemma, Roget
with Jemma, Roget
Roget 5 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
with robin
with robin
jonleighton 28 Jun, 2014 Lead dog
dannyboy83 17 Jun, 2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt
mileshill540 ??, 2014 Lead
Brown ??, 2014 Lead
shouter 24 Jul, 2013 Lead
Jim Slater 8 May, 2013 2nd dog
Graeme Hammond 8 May, 2013 Lead rpt previously backed off in rain after having a rest. Still seemed fairly tough and very dirty and loose at the top.
previously backed off in rain after having a rest. Still seemed fairly tough and very dirty and loose at the top.
Yeknom ?May, 2013 2nd O/S
henry peter jenkins 22 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S early crux. remember seeing paul deck on this route :/
with dale clover
early crux. remember seeing paul deck on this route :/
with dale clover
sebbo 20 Apr, 2013 Lead dog Bit of a struggle. Should've climbed earlier in the day not as the last climb when totally pooped. Found difficult to protect but mainly due to missing pieces of rack and lack of practice. Crux was still wet - not ideal!
Bit of a struggle. Should've climbed earlier in the day not as the last climb when totally pooped. Found difficult to protect but mainly due to missing pieces of rack and lack of practice. Crux was still wet - not ideal!
Hidden 31 Mar, 2013 2nd
rd20 10 Nov, 2012 2nd O/S
GarethHall 10 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
with rd20
with rd20
Hidden 21 Oct, 2012 AltLd dog
Kirill 20 Oct, 2012 2nd RP Failed to lead, then seconded with difficulty.
with cem
Failed to lead, then seconded with difficulty.
with cem
Hidden 20 Oct, 2012 2nd
cem 20 Oct, 2012 Lead dog Got up to just below the roof on my first attempt (making life difficult for myself by not spotting a couple of holds) but backed off because I didn't trust my wire. Kirill then had a go before I got it on my second attempt (although not without a couple of rests after moving up to the roof and finding some decent gear)
with Kirill
Got up to just below the roof on my first attempt (making life difficult for myself by not spotting a couple of holds) but backed off because I didn't trust my wire. Kirill then had a go before I got it on my second attempt (although not without a couple of rests after moving up to the roof and finding some decent gear)
with Kirill
Charlie Zephyr Booth 29 Sep, 2012 AltLd
papashango 29 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Charlie
with Charlie
Hannah Moulton 1 Sep, 2012 2nd
Hannah Moulton 1 Sep, 2012 2nd
disturbed_one51 1 Sep, 2012 Lead
mike lawrence? 14 Aug, 2012 Lead The Nav placed most of the gear and then let me lead it.
with James the Navigator
The Nav placed most of the gear and then let me lead it.
with James the Navigator
martroberts 8 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Nice first half and grotty, loose, gritty top half which is such a shame
Nice first half and grotty, loose, gritty top half which is such a shame
Pete Graham 1 Mar, 2012 Lead
with malx
with malx
Dan Mckinlay ??, 2012 -
Sean Kelly ??, 2012 -
DanC1985 30 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with Martin
with Martin
JasRY 24 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Awsome route! bar the grotty exit
with Lawrence Ramsey
Awsome route! bar the grotty exit
with Lawrence Ramsey
Hidden 2 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
HimTiggins 2 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
stuaart 14 Aug, 2011 2nd
with Dave
with Dave
Hidden 3 Aug, 2011 2nd
tonanf ?Aug, 2011 2nd
Hidden 20 May, 2011 Lead O/S
mark20 20 May, 2011 2nd O/S
eel 20 Mar, 2011 -
eel 20 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
RM199 ??, 2011 Lead dog
halo 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd G/U A great route on better rock than Gimcrack.
A great route on better rock than Gimcrack.
climbing_rocks1983 10 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf KP finished off, the seconded clean
KP finished off, the seconded clean
Hidden 20 Apr, 2010 2nd
gripped01 ?Apr, 2010 Lead
with Rob Patchett
with Rob Patchett
Ollie B 14 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S awesome moves on the main part of the route despite the grubby exit
with M.Sharpe
awesome moves on the main part of the route despite the grubby exit
with M.Sharpe
sharpie530 13 Mar, 2010 2nd
with Ollie B
with Ollie B
Ewano ??, 2010 TR
katyvose1 ??, 2010 -
clairejane ??, 2010 2nd
with gav
with gav
Hidden 15 Oct, 2009 2nd O/S
melonmike 15 Oct, 2009 2nd O/S
with Big Steve, JackMetcalfe
with Big Steve, JackMetcalfe
PeteH 5 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S Great start, one good honest strenuous move, then extremely loose-looking stuff above that, which I avoided by finishing up Gimcrack (which wasn't much better, to be honest - covered in soil and sand.)
with Brad Cain
Great start, one good honest strenuous move, then extremely loose-looking stuff above that, which I avoided by finishing up Gimcrack (which wasn't much better, to be honest - covered in soil and sand.)
with Brad Cain
Hidden 22 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
LoopyLou 25 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S Better section of rock than the guidebook suggests.
with Helen Lear
Better section of rock than the guidebook suggests.
with Helen Lear
miastacey 9 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Heather Clarke
with Heather Clarke
Hidden 22 Mar, 2009 2nd O/S
summo ??, 2009 -
ASchwirtz 12 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 12 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ian Bruce
with Ian Bruce
Lewis Andrew ?Oct, 2008 2nd
with John Lynch
with John Lynch
Andrew Sloan 17 Aug, 2008 2nd rpt The best thing about this climb is the name; you can go into work on a monday morning and say 'I did the whore this weekend'!.......or, if you got spat off it like Martin did, 'the whore did me'!!!
The best thing about this climb is the name; you can go into work on a monday morning and say 'I did the whore this weekend'!.......or, if you got spat off it like Martin did, 'the whore did me'!!!
Martin Haworth 17 Aug, 2008 Lead dog
Hidden 11 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
IAmAStone 6 Aug, 2008 2nd
with Tom Parry
with Tom Parry
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 -
Hidden 22 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 13 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S Unexpectedly hard.
with Brian Q
Unexpectedly hard.
with Brian Q
Hidden 25 May, 2008 2nd O/S
tom.ireson 18 Feb, 2008 Lead dog So frustrating having all those cracks and not being able to get gear in without much faffing on almost every one! Awesome climb though, will definitely repeat sometime. Not too keen on the sandy dusty finish though.... put a small wire in at the last possible opportunity before mantling if you dont want to sweat all the way up the scrabbly bit.
with Jens Verhagh
So frustrating having all those cracks and not being able to get gear in without much faffing on almost every one! Awesome climb though, will definitely repeat sometime. Not too keen on the sandy dusty finish though.... put a small wire in at the last possible opportunity before mantling if you dont want to sweat all the way up the scrabbly bit.
with Jens Verhagh
Hidden 10 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??, 2008 2nd
Hidden 7 Oct, 2007 Lead dog
Somerset swede basher 21 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Jim & Amanda
with Jim & Amanda
Andrew Sloan 9 Apr, 2007 Lead rpt
with Richard
with Richard
Lukey B ?Mar, 2007 TR O/S
davidgent ?Mar, 2007 2nd lead clean in may 2008
with Luke
lead clean in may 2008
with Luke
jake-jones ??, 2007 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 -
Hidden 17 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2006 Lead O/S
dan gibson 14 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Jon Greengrass ??, 2006 Lead RP
UndercoverElephant ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 7 Sep, 2005 Lead β
Hidden 11 Aug, 2005 2nd
Hidden ??, 2005 2nd
Hidden ??, 2005 -
zero six ??, 2005 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 1 Sep, 2004 Lead
with Jon Winter
with Jon Winter
nickdonohue ?May, 2004 2nd
with Jim Barradale
with Jim Barradale
Nigel Coe 20 Jul, 2003 Lead dnf
with Dick Hanson
with Dick Hanson
phardman 6 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
reg_measures 4 Oct, 2002 2nd O/S
with hugh thomas
with hugh thomas
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Carl Smethurst 22 Oct, 2000 2nd
with Ian Pickles
with Ian Pickles
tedburt 30 Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead dnf
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
nickcanute ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 21 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
with Ian Pickles
with Ian Pickles
ArnaudG ??, 1999 -
CrashMat Rob 26 Oct, 1997 Lead O/S
with Paul Kerr
with Paul Kerr
Roget 12 Oct, 1997 2nd O/S
with Derek Beetlestone, jon
with Derek Beetlestone, jon
Hidden ??, 1997 2nd
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
andybirtwistle 2 Oct, 1993 Lead
with Ed Williams, Steve Brewis
with Ed Williams, Steve Brewis
Hidden 25 Jun, 1993 2nd
uphillnow 26 Mar, 1993 -
Hidden 6 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 May, 1992 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 30 Jun, 1991 -
with Tim
with Tim
Neil McA 30 Jun, 1991 Lead O/S
with jon Lawton
with jon Lawton
Alan James - UKC and UKH 9 Sep, 1989 Lead
John Marsland 5 Nov, 1988 2nd
with Dave Soles
with Dave Soles
Fakey Rocks 2 Aug, 1987 2nd
ajtay ??, 1987 -
with Various
with Various
Hidden 16 Jun, 1985 2nd
Hidden 10 May, 1985 Lead O/S
Andy Nicholson ?May, 1985 Lead O/S
with Chez
with Chez
GordonHart ??, 1985 Lead O/S
GuyM ??, 1985 -
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Ian Jones ??, 1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
nbotting ??, 1982 -
Mark Kemball 5 Dec, 1981 Lead
with Steve Finch, Bill McKee
with Steve Finch, Bill McKee
Robmwatt ??, 1980 -
Robmwatt ??, 1980 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?Apr, 1976 -
with Al Baker
with Al Baker
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Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
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Alt Leads
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Onsighted
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Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
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Not Set