Rockfax Description
Climb to the overhang and layback through it via a finger-crack to easier ground - awkward gear. Spoilt by a grotty exit. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Reading 1975

Ticklists: Millstone HVS's, Millstone * HVS In a day, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***.

Hidden 26/Sep/17 Lead
GeorgiePorgie1 24/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Strongly agree with the awkward gear bit!!! Grossly underestimated this climb and paid the price by decking from under the overhang...!!! Didn't bring enough variety of/adequate gear and it seemed none of my nuts were the right size. Needs offset nuts as well as some minicams to make this work. Some day I may...

with Rob
nickhamb 20/Jul/17 Lead dog

Got too pumped and panicked just as I got over the overhang. Should have kept my wits and would have seen the big side pull just above me. Shame (was the last climb of the day too so might have been too tired). The rest of the climb was straight forward. Awesome route.

quickdrawmcraw 08/Jul/17 Lead
with Amy121
ashtond6 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Mr Wild 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Tricky start. Fine once crack proper is reached.

melv 23/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Fi
Mike505 14/Oct/16 2nd RP
Afell 09/Oct/16 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Sep/16 2nd
Andrew Barker 01/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Chris M
Andy Peak 1 30/May/16 Lead O/S

Utterly brilyant every hvs leader needs this in ther lives ;-)

with Dom
DHHZ 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Rose
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
morganator 13/Apr/16 Solo O/S
ian d f 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Mark S, Tor
Mark Stevenson 11/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/15 2nd β
duncan 28/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Andy Fielding 19/Apr/15 Lead dog
with Mike Walton, Paul Wright
goddamm7 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with mike walton, andy fielding
robgixer 13/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Robin Nichols 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jemma, Roger
Roget 05/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with robin
jonleighton 28/Jun/14 Lead dog
dannyboy83 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Brown ??/2014 Lead
with James T
shouter 24/Jul/13 Lead
Graeme Hammond 08/May/13 Lead rpt

previously backed off in rain after having a rest. Still seemed fairly tough and very dirty and loose at the top.

with Jim
Yeknom ?/May/13 2nd O/S
henry peter jenkins 22/Apr/13 Lead O/S

early crux. remember seeing paul deck on this route :/

with dale clover
sebbo 20/Apr/13 Lead dog

Bit of a struggle. Should've climbed earlier in the day not as the last climb when totally pooped. Found difficult to protect but mainly due to missing pieces of rack and lack of practice. Crux was still wet - not ideal!

Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd
rd20 10/Nov/12 2nd O/S
GarethHall 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 21/Oct/12 AltLd dog
Kirill 20/Oct/12 2nd RP

Failed to lead, then seconded with difficulty.

Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd
cem 20/Oct/12 Lead dog

Got up to just below the roof on my first attempt (making life difficult for myself by not spotting a couple of holds) but backed off because I didn't trust my wire. Kirill then had a go before I got it on my second attempt (although not without a couple of rests after moving up to the roof and finding some decent gear)

Charlie Zephyr Booth 29/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 29/Sep/12 2nd
disturbed_one51 01/Sep/12 Lead
mike lawrence? 14/Aug/12 Lead

The Nav placed most of the gear and then let me lead it.

with James the Navigator
martroberts 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Nice first half and grotty, loose, gritty top half which is such a shame

Pete Graham 01/Mar/12 Lead
Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
Sean Kelly ??/2012 -
DanC1985 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Martin
JasRY 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Awsome route! bar the grotty exit

with Lawrence Ramsey
tebs 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Jon, Tim
HimTiggins 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Bart, John
stuaart 14/Aug/11 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 03/Aug/11 2nd
tonanf ?/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead O/S
mark20 20/May/11 2nd O/S
eel 20/Mar/11 -
eel 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
RM199 ??/2011 Lead dog
climbing_rocks1983 10/Jul/10 Lead dnf

KP finished off, the seconded clean

Hidden 20/Apr/10 2nd
gripped01 ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Rob Patchett
Ollie B 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

awesome moves on the main part of the route despite the grubby exit

with M.Sharpe
sharpie530 13/Mar/10 2nd
with ollie b
Ewano ??/2010 TR
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
clairejane ??/2010 2nd
with gav
Hidden 15/Oct/09 2nd O/S
melonmike 15/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Big Steve, Jack Metcalfe
PeteH 05/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Great start, one good honest strenuous move, then extremely loose-looking stuff above that, which I avoided by finishing up Gimcrack (which wasn't much better, to be honest - covered in soil and sand.)

with Brad Cain
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
LoopyLou 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Better section of rock than the guidebook suggests.

with Helen Lear
miastacey 09/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Heather Clarke
Hidden 22/Mar/09 2nd O/S
summo ??/2009 -
ASchwirtz 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Lewis Andrew ?/Oct/08 2nd
with John Lynch
Andrew Sloan 17/Aug/08 2nd rpt

The best thing about this climb is the name; you can go into work on a monday morning and say 'I did the whore this weekend'!.......or, if you got spat off it like Martin did, 'the whore did me'!!!

Martin Haworth 17/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Andy
Hidden 11/Aug/08 Lead O/S
IAmAStone 06/Aug/08 2nd
with Tom Parry
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Unexpectedly hard.

with Brian Q
Hidden 25/May/08 2nd O/S
Nicos 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with ryan
tom.ireson 18/Feb/08 Lead dog

So frustrating having all those cracks and not being able to get gear in without much faffing on almost every one! Awesome climb though, will definitely repeat sometime. Not too keen on the sandy dusty finish though.... put a small wire in at the last possible opportunity before mantling if you dont want to sweat all the way up the scrabbly bit.

with Jens Verhagh
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead dog
Somerset swede basher 21/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jim & Amanda
Andrew Sloan 09/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Richard
Lukey B ?/Mar/07 TR O/S
davidgent ?/Mar/07 2nd

lead clean in may 2008

with Luke
jake-jones ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead RP
UndercoverElephant ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 07/Sep/05 Lead β
Hidden 11/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
zero six ??/2005 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
nickdonohue ?/May/04 2nd
with Jim Barradale
Nigel Coe 20/Jul/03 Lead dnf
with Dick Hanson
phardman 06/Jul/03 Lead O/S
reg_measures 04/Oct/02 2nd O/S
with hugh thomas
Hidden ??/2002 -
Carl Smethurst 22/Oct/00 2nd
with Ian Pickles
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 21/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Ian Pickles
ArnaudG ??/1999 -
CrashMat Rob 26/Oct/97 Lead O/S
with Paul Kerr
Roget 12/Oct/97 2nd O/S
with Derek Beetlestone, jon
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
andybirtwistle 02/Oct/93 Lead
with Ed Williams, Steve Brewis
Hidden 25/Jun/93 2nd
uphillnow 26/Mar/93 -
Hidden 06/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/92 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 30/Jun/91 -
with Tim
Alan James - UKC and UKH 09/Sep/89 Lead
John Marsland 05/Nov/88 2nd
with Dave Soles
Fakey Rocks 02/Aug/87 2nd
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden 16/Jun/85 2nd
TonyF 10/May/85 Lead O/S
with George Fowler, Alistair Gordon
Andy Nicholson ?/May/85 Lead O/S
with Chez
GordonHart ??/1985 Lead O/S
GuyM ??/1985 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
nbotting ??/1982 -
Mark Kemball 05/Dec/81 Lead
with Steve Finch, Bill McKee
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Apr/76 -
with Al Baker
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