8m.

Rockfax Description
A taxing traverse along the sloping finger-break, gains a shallow flake - a popular f6B to here. A committing long stretch and an ancient chipped hold (lest we forget) reaches the Valkyrie stance. There is also a direct start using another chipped hold which is f6B+, although easier than that for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Proctor (solo) 1968

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, The Peak: Past and Present, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Gritual

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox 18 Mar -
Sam O'Rourke 17 Jan Solo G/U With pads.
with Alex Norton
With pads.
with Alex Norton
dom94 17 Nov, 2018 Sent rpt Getting off scarier than the route, abseiled off the tat last time.
with pad party, Mike, Poppy Henson
Getting off scarier than the route, abseiled off the tat last time.
with pad party, Mike, Poppy Henson
Matt Harle 15 Sep, 2018 Sent x Pussied out a few times before committing.
Pussied out a few times before committing.
Mischa2912 27 Jul, 2018 Solo RP
Bristoldave 26 Mar, 2018 Lead RP 4 mats and top roped 1st!
with long
4 mats and top roped 1st!
with long
Hidden 25 Mar, 2018 Sent x
Jwatson 21 Mar, 2018 Solo G/U Onsight to the top after a couple of goes at the Boulder start. 3 pads, not a super straight forward topout
Onsight to the top after a couple of goes at the Boulder start. 3 pads, not a super straight forward topout
Jandwilson 21 Mar, 2018 Solo dnf Traversed along the bottom, all felt steady until I got to the top out and hung around for 5 minutes...jumped off in the end
with Jwatson, harry.morrish, tom.wp6
Traversed along the bottom, all felt steady until I got to the top out and hung around for 5 minutes...jumped off in the end
with Jwatson, harry.morrish, tom.wp6
JCAshman 7 Mar, 2017 Lead G/U Its is indeed more satisfying than the direct
Its is indeed more satisfying than the direct
TomRiddelsdell 18 Feb, 2017 2nd β
Hidden 18 Feb, 2017 Solo β
nickb1 18 Feb, 2017 Solo dnf One more move... wussed out and jumped off.
One more move... wussed out and jumped off.
islandlynx 18 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S It seems most people solo it but I managed to place some gear (probably not on everyone's rack). The moves were fairly easy. Did the direct start which is pretty easy if your above 6"1' with a pad. Overall it felt E3 5c it that style. Don't feel like it was my first E4 onsight
It seems most people solo it but I managed to place some gear (probably not on everyone's rack). The moves were fairly easy. Did the direct start which is pretty easy if your above 6"1' with a pad. Overall it felt E3 5c it that style. Don't feel like it was my first E4 onsight
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Felix la shat 2 Nov, 2016 Solo O/S
JamesTurnbull97 21 Oct, 2016 Lead β Was glad to be able to reach the last move static. 1 pad which felt a long way below. Finished up Valkyrie
with Flo
Was glad to be able to reach the last move static. 1 pad which felt a long way below. Finished up Valkyrie
with Flo
Hidden 25 Jan, 2016 Solo G/U
Bernie L 16 Jan, 2016 Sent x Above many pads. Did the top section second time after jumping off because I couldn't commit to the last move. Bottom traverse took me more goes
Above many pads. Did the top section second time after jumping off because I couldn't commit to the last move. Bottom traverse took me more goes
benkelsey 16 Jan, 2016 Sent O/S Psyched for the flash. The pop move is fine at the top but cold hands gave an interesting top out. Pad party
Psyched for the flash. The pop move is fine at the top but cold hands gave an interesting top out. Pad party
pete1993 16 Jan, 2016 Solo G/U did the direct start after failing on the traverse too many times, such good climbing, getting onto the ledge was possibly the scariest climbing I've ever done even above a sea of pads
did the direct start after failing on the traverse too many times, such good climbing, getting onto the ledge was possibly the scariest climbing I've ever done even above a sea of pads
Louishmouis 26 Oct, 2015 Solo O/S
with ben
with ben
Scott Quinn 4 Oct, 2015 Solo O/S Loonnnngggggg move to the flatty, swung around on it to get my feet up. exciting getting into the Valkyrie stance (2 mats)
Loonnnngggggg move to the flatty, swung around on it to get my feet up. exciting getting into the Valkyrie stance (2 mats)
jacob shieldhouse hadley 3 Oct, 2015 Solo O/S did it , then used it as the decent!!
did it , then used it as the decent!!
harry_lewis 22 Sep, 2015 Sent x
Matt Groom 15 Aug, 2015 Lead
with Alex McCann
with Alex McCann
Hidden 18 Jun, 2015 TR
Nick1812P 25 May, 2015 Solo O/S Above pads.
Above pads.
amccann 25 May, 2015 Solo β
dom94 21 Apr, 2015 Lead G/U Nice little route, though it definitely helps to be tall on this one. Had one pad.
with amccann
Nice little route, though it definitely helps to be tall on this one. Had one pad.
with amccann
The old James turnbull 8 Jan, 2015 Lead
Dave Mayes 29 Dec, 2014 - Direct start, downclimbed from the break. Bon.
with Pad Party
Direct start, downclimbed from the break. Bon.
with Pad Party
C coldwell-storry 7 Dec, 2014 Sent O/S Via Direct Start.
with B Freeman, Phil Vickers
Via Direct Start.
with B Freeman, Phil Vickers
NDD 30 Nov, 2014 Solo
MischaHY 30 Nov, 2014 Solo O/S Nice moves, top-out was exciting!
Nice moves, top-out was exciting!
Duncan Campbell 30 Nov, 2014 Sent Had tried before last year but not managed to commit to the final move. Very pleased to do first go today having not even warmed up properly. A fine bit of wall climbing! Did original, historic way.
Had tried before last year but not managed to commit to the final move. Very pleased to do first go today having not even warmed up properly. A fine bit of wall climbing! Did original, historic way.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 30 Nov, 2014 Sent rpt
Hidden 2 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Oct, 2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 12 Oct, 2014 Sent dnf
Oddjob 12 Oct, 2014 Sent x
with Tom, Adam B
with Tom, Adam B
jchoochoy 29 Jul, 2014 Sent x
DaveFidler 16 Jul, 2014 Solo RP Historical start, emotional top out when I couldn't find any holds.
Historical start, emotional top out when I couldn't find any holds.
Bloke on a Rope 1 Apr, 2014 Solo dnf Got to the last move to hit the shelf several times but kept bottling it, will be back with a couple of pads, would still be a big fall but more survivable over pads.
Got to the last move to hit the shelf several times but kept bottling it, will be back with a couple of pads, would still be a big fall but more survivable over pads.
Hidden 19 Jan, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden 15 Dec, 2013 Sent
Duncan Campbell 15 Dec, 2013 Sent dnf Got to the last hard move to the flatty, still not quite recovered from Works Party (excuses) felt a bit too pumped and not in enough control to commit to top move. Will come back when more comfortable being above the ground ropeless and in better condition. Psyched for it though!
Got to the last hard move to the flatty, still not quite recovered from Works Party (excuses) felt a bit too pumped and not in enough control to commit to top move. Will come back when more comfortable being above the ground ropeless and in better condition. Psyched for it though!
Matthew Ferrier 4 Dec, 2013 Solo O/S Pretty pleased, especially after such a long last move. It's not really 6b though is it. . ?
Pretty pleased, especially after such a long last move. It's not really 6b though is it. . ?
James Oakes 30 Nov, 2013 Solo G/U Direct start, took a few goes to get the first move. Pads.
with Fragmod
Direct start, took a few goes to get the first move. Pads.
with Fragmod
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 Solo O/S
Hidden 28 Apr, 2013 Solo dnf
Haydn Jones 3 Apr, 2013 Solo RP Not the best style. Top roped it before solo regret top ropping it top move was easy
Not the best style. Top roped it before solo regret top ropping it top move was easy
birdie1989 29 Mar, 2013 Solo snowballed
snowballed
masonwoods101 29 Mar, 2013 Sent β Flash snowball. 6b+
Flash snowball. 6b+
danjimwill 29 Mar, 2013 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Mar, 2013 Solo O/S Above Pads.
with Dave Brown, Katy Whittaker
Above Pads.
with Dave Brown, Katy Whittaker
Ollie B 4 Jan, 2013 Solo β Direct Start (Traverse damp). Ground up. 1 pad.
with S.Bennett
Direct Start (Traverse damp). Ground up. 1 pad.
with S.Bennett
ejected ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Dec, 2012 Sent dnf
Hidden 28 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Oct, 2012 Solo RP
mark20 30 Sep, 2012 Lead β Pads
Pads
J.Wells 30 Sep, 2012 Lead β
with mark20
with mark20
Hidden 18 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Keendan 16 Sep, 2012 Sent rpt One Pad
One Pad
BRoe 21 Jul, 2012 Solo G/U ground up 2nd try, should of onsighted it.
ground up 2nd try, should of onsighted it.
MarkRoe 21 Jul, 2012 Lead G/U Ground up second attempt, fell off the traverse on my first try. I linked this with the last pitch of Valkyrie which made for an awesome lead. Pads used for Oedipus, a fall from the top crux would still have been nasty though.
Ground up second attempt, fell off the traverse on my first try. I linked this with the last pitch of Valkyrie which made for an awesome lead. Pads used for Oedipus, a fall from the top crux would still have been nasty though.
Keendan 16 May, 2012 Solo RP With the traverse this time. Slipped off the traverse first go, got it second. Didn't climb very well though, feet slipping all over the place. Video here https://vimeo.com/42303017
With the traverse this time. Slipped off the traverse first go, got it second. Didn't climb very well though, feet slipping all over the place. Video here https://vimeo.com/42303017
henry peter jenkins 6 May, 2012 Lead RP bouldered the hard part to the ledge of valkarie at half hight and had a rope and harness thrown up to finish through the last pitch of valkarie. I did the bottom of this route as a boulder prob last time i was at the crag so it wasnt a onsight, but did do it first go.
with jamie standbridge, Emilio Bachini
bouldered the hard part to the ledge of valkarie at half hight and had a rope and harness thrown up to finish through the last pitch of valkarie. I did the bottom of this route as a boulder prob last time i was at the crag so it wasnt a onsight, but did do it first go.
with jamie standbridge, Emilio Bachini
Keendan 21 Mar, 2012 Lead β Direct start, no mats. Reached the last hard move the day before but got scared and down climbed. Nice to get it done first thing the next day.
with remus
Direct start, no mats. Reached the last hard move the day before but got scared and down climbed. Nice to get it done first thing the next day.
with remus
Keendan 21 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt For the video (finally got the camera to work) still buzzing off doing it 5 min previous.
with remus
For the video (finally got the camera to work) still buzzing off doing it 5 min previous.
with remus
al123 4 Feb, 2012 Sent nice to repeat it. cheers to the lads for the pads and spot. Direct start again
with richard
nice to repeat it. cheers to the lads for the pads and spot. Direct start again
with richard
Hidden 12 Jan, 2012 Solo
al123 12 Jan, 2012 Solo Ground up above a load of pads. great climb. macthed at the break then downclimbed and jumped off, too windy and cold to solo up or down valkyrie. Direct start too
Ground up above a load of pads. great climb. macthed at the break then downclimbed and jumped off, too windy and cold to solo up or down valkyrie. Direct start too
Ally Smith 15 Oct, 2011 Solo rpt And down climbed
And down climbed
Hidden 15 Oct, 2011 Sent
AlistairB 15 Oct, 2011 Solo Ground up above pads, traverse start. Brilliant!
with Tom Coyne
Ground up above pads, traverse start. Brilliant!
with Tom Coyne
Chris_barr 3 Sep, 2011 Lead Direct Start, Ground up.
with Chris Lockyer
Direct Start, Ground up.
with Chris Lockyer
akhughes 14 Apr, 2011 Solo β Can't claim an onsight as I had seen Katy W on the ukc vid. awesome highball though. Did 6b start which seems more hard 5c
Can't claim an onsight as I had seen Katy W on the ukc vid. awesome highball though. Did 6b start which seems more hard 5c
Hidden 6 Mar, 2011 Solo β
Ed Booth 23 Jan, 2011 Solo β Watched Adam do it first then flashed. Did orginal traverse and down soloed Valkyrie.
with Adam Long, grady
Watched Adam do it first then flashed. Did orginal traverse and down soloed Valkyrie.
with Adam Long, grady
grady ?Jan, 2011 Solo O/S
Ethan 11 Dec, 2010 Solo O/S
with Don Walker
with Don Walker
harvie 8 Dec, 2010 Solo O/S
dodfoster 28 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S Excellent climb! Did it the old fashioned way, never 6b though! Lovely sting in the tail!
with mark
Excellent climb! Did it the old fashioned way, never 6b though! Lovely sting in the tail!
with mark
Tom Briggs 28 Nov, 2010 Sent
Richard Hall 27 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Direct start. Down climbed from last move twice before going for it. Easy when you do. RP fell out when I got to the break, had a bit of a wobble not knowing you have to go to the arete.
with Anais
Direct start. Down climbed from last move twice before going for it. Easy when you do. RP fell out when I got to the break, had a bit of a wobble not knowing you have to go to the arete.
with Anais
Somerset swede basher 29 Aug, 2010 Solo G/U Had done the traverse previously about 3 years ago. Seem to remember climbing part way up the route too before getting scared and climbing back down. Went smoothly today although it was an ungraceful grovel onto the stance!
with Sarah, Bernie and Lawrence
Had done the traverse previously about 3 years ago. Seem to remember climbing part way up the route too before getting scared and climbing back down. Went smoothly today although it was an ungraceful grovel onto the stance!
with Sarah, Bernie and Lawrence
Bill Lawrence 10 Aug, 2010 Solo did the direct start, fell off the first move one first go though, then did it straight after. scary scary scary last move! especially not knowing whether the hold would be any good. first e4 and best climbing experience so far!
did the direct start, fell off the first move one first go though, then did it straight after. scary scary scary last move! especially not knowing whether the hold would be any good. first e4 and best climbing experience so far!
irish paul 24 Apr, 2010 Solo O/S
Mike Goldthorp 13 Mar, 2010 Solo O/S Fairly steady mostly, hard stuff is lower down but still an interesting top move. No pads.
Fairly steady mostly, hard stuff is lower down but still an interesting top move. No pads.
Hidden 23 Jan, 2010 Solo
mic_b 23 Jan, 2010 Sent x
with James Blake
with James Blake
Hidden 7 Jan, 2010 Solo O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
lukehunt ??, 2010 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 Solo
St0neMonkey ??, 2010 TR O/S
kingholmesy ??, 2010 Solo Did the direct start at the beginning of the day. Came back to do the right-hand traverse start at the end of the day and fell off the very top ledge due to fatigue, dislocating my finger and pushing the bone out through the front of my hand. Not recommended.
Did the direct start at the beginning of the day. Came back to do the right-hand traverse start at the end of the day and fell off the very top ledge due to fatigue, dislocating my finger and pushing the bone out through the front of my hand. Not recommended.
JulesV 20 Oct, 2009 Solo rpt
mgeek 23 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S not 6b , sustained 6a!
with adam hughes
not 6b , sustained 6a!
with adam hughes
JM 18 Sep, 2009 Solo
with Andrew Stripp
with Andrew Stripp
dan gibson 18 Sep, 2009 Solo O/S
Alex Mason 6 Sep, 2009 Solo O/S had to slap for the top jug, cracking climbing. Then had to call down for rope to do valkyrie, bowlined round waist. Did a hands-abb off the top. (also soloed sunset slab and reversed sunset crack, seconded strapiombo and the big crack.)
with James Oakes, Billy Laurence
had to slap for the top jug, cracking climbing. Then had to call down for rope to do valkyrie, bowlined round waist. Did a hands-abb off the top. (also soloed sunset slab and reversed sunset crack, seconded strapiombo and the big crack.)
with James Oakes, Billy Laurence
Boy ?Sep, 2009 -
DaveFidler ?Jul, 2009 TR RP
MorganPreece 31 Jan, 2009 Solo dnf Fell off the last hold! Next time its going to go!
with Jim, Monty, Nick, Kylie, Ben moon and Jerry moffat
Fell off the last hold! Next time its going to go!
with Jim, Monty, Nick, Kylie, Ben moon and Jerry moffat
Twisty 17 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S Simply the best route I've done. Brilliant open face climbing, and to finish up the second pitch of Valkyrie (my second favorite route) was just brilliant!
Simply the best route I've done. Brilliant open face climbing, and to finish up the second pitch of Valkyrie (my second favorite route) was just brilliant!
Hidden ??, 2009 Solo
Hidden 9 Dec, 2008 Solo
Hidden 20 Nov, 2008 Solo
Hidden 16 Oct, 2008 Solo O/S
Hidden 10 Oct, 2008 Solo RP
Hidden 3 Oct, 2008 Solo
MYSSAK 17 May, 2008 Solo rpt
MYSSAK 5 Apr, 2008 Solo β
Hidden 11 Nov, 2007 Solo dnf
Ram MkiV 7 Oct, 2007 Solo via the original finger traverse in. Quite knarly - took a few goes.
with Alex B, Alex M, Toby
via the original finger traverse in. Quite knarly - took a few goes.
with Alex B, Alex M, Toby
Ram MkiV 20 Sep, 2007 Solo O/S direct start
direct start
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Hidden 21 Oct, 2006 Solo
tumbling wizard 16 Oct, 2006 Solo RP
lukea 15 Oct, 2006 Sent β
with dan
with dan
Castleclimber 15 Oct, 2006 Sent x
Hidden 26 Apr, 2006 Solo
Hidden 5 Mar, 2006 Solo O/S
Hidden 4 Feb, 2006 Solo O/S
Birdo ??, 2006 -
with Dave Bird
with Dave Bird
Hidden ??, 2006 -
bronsonite 27 Sep, 2005 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 Solo RP
Chris Reid ?May, 2005 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
with Oliver Allen
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Solo β
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15 May, 2004 Solo G/U
Daniel Armitage 6 Mar, 2004 Solo RP I climbed the start of this route as a boulder problem some years before doing the whole route. It was soloed ground up, but as John Mason kindly pointed out this is not an onsight....
I climbed the start of this route as a boulder problem some years before doing the whole route. It was soloed ground up, but as John Mason kindly pointed out this is not an onsight....
Dave Bond 16 Mar, 2003 Solo RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Jun, 2002 Solo O/S
phil64 1 Apr, 2000 -
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead
Roget 11 Oct, 1997 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 1995 TR
Stoney Boy 7 Feb, 1993 Lead O/S
with Andy MaCallum, Neil McCallum
with Andy MaCallum, Neil McCallum
Hidden ?Mar, 1992 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 1992 Lead
adi bryant 30 May, 1991 Solo O/S Only went to the top because i was too crap at down climbing to get off it. :)
Only went to the top because i was too crap at down climbing to get off it. :)
Neil McA 22 May, 1991 Solo rpt
Chris Wright 19 Jan, 1991 Solo
jfletcher 2 Dec, 1990 Solo
Andy Farnell ??, 1990 Solo O/S Date a rough guess
Date a rough guess
ajtay ??, 1989 Solo
with Various
with Various
UKB Shark ?Oct, 1988 Solo β
sadams 3 Aug, 1987 Solo
with Guy Townsend
with Guy Townsend
Pedro50 1 Jul, 1987 Solo No mats in those days
No mats in those days
Neil McA 10 May, 1987 Solo O/S
with Beak 1.
with Beak 1.
Seb Grieve 4 May, 1986 Solo O/S On-sight with the direct start. If you are tall then you can do laps on this all day. Watch out for the flake a mid height, it will come off one day.
On-sight with the direct start. If you are tall then you can do laps on this all day. Watch out for the flake a mid height, it will come off one day.
Jim Fowler ??, 1986 -
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
Lone Rider ?May, 1984 Solo dnf Kept bailing at layaway and scuttling back down with Big Ron egging me on. Never did get back to complete it.
Kept bailing at layaway and scuttling back down with Big Ron egging me on. Never did get back to complete it.
phil64 ??, 1984 Solo First time no pads, carried on up Valkyrie ....the crux!
First time no pads, carried on up Valkyrie ....the crux!
Hidden ??, 1980 Solo
37 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 38
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Bouldered
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Not Set