Rockfax Description
A taxing traverse along the sloping finger-break, gains a shallow flake - a popular f6B to here. A committing long stretch and an ancient chipped hold (lest we forget) reaches the Valkyrie stance. There is also a direct start using another chipped hold which is f6B+, although easier than that for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Proctor (solo) 1968

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, The Peak: Past and Present, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Gritual.

JCAshman 07/Mar/17 Lead G/U

Its is indeed more satisfying than the direct

TomRiddelsdell 18/Feb/17 2nd β
Hidden 18/Feb/17 Solo β
nickb1 18/Feb/17 Solo dnf

One more move... wussed out and jumped off.

islandlynx 18/Feb/17 Lead O/S

It seems most people solo it but I managed to place some gear (probably not on everyone's rack). The moves were fairly easy. Did the direct start which is pretty easy if your above 6"1' with a pad. Overall it felt E3 5c it that style. Don't feel like it was my first E4 onsight

Hidden ??/2017 -
Felix la shat 02/Nov/16 Solo O/S
JamesTurnbull97 21/Oct/16 Lead β

Was glad to be able to reach the last move static. 1 pad which felt a long way below. Finished up Valkyrie

with Flo
Hidden 25/Jan/16 Solo G/U
Bernie L 16/Jan/16 Sent x

Above many pads. Did the top section second time after jumping off because I couldn't commit to the last move. Bottom traverse took me more goes

benkelsey 16/Jan/16 Sent O/S

Psyched for the flash. The pop move is fine at the top but cold hands gave an interesting top out. Pad party

pete1993 16/Jan/16 Solo G/U

did the direct start after failing on the traverse too many times, such good climbing, getting onto the ledge was possibly the scariest climbing I've ever done even above a sea of pads

Louishmouis 26/Oct/15 Solo O/S
with ben
Scott Quinn 04/Oct/15 Solo O/S

Loonnnngggggg move to the flatty, swung around on it to get my feet up. exciting getting into the Valkyrie stance (2 mats)

jacob shieldhouse hadley 03/Oct/15 Solo O/S

did it , then used it as the decent!!

with paddy
harry_lewis 22/Sep/15 Sent x
with Matt Ferrier, Shaun, pete1993, Teappleby, Alex McCann
Matt Groom 15/Aug/15 Lead
with Alex McCann
TonyF 18/Jun/15 TR
with David
Nick1812P 25/May/15 Solo O/S

Above pads.

amccann 25/May/15 Solo β
dom94 21/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Nice little route, though it definitely helps to be tall on this one. Had one pad.

The old James turnbull 08/Jan/15 Lead
Dave Mayes 29/Dec/14 -

Direct start, downclimbed from the break. Bon.

with Pad Party
C coldwell-storry 07/Dec/14 Sent O/S

Via Direct Start.

with B Freeman, Phil Vickers
NDD 30/Nov/14 Solo
MischaHY 30/Nov/14 Solo O/S

Nice moves, top-out was exciting!

Duncan Campbell 30/Nov/14 Sent

Had tried before last year but not managed to commit to the final move. Very pleased to do first go today having not even warmed up properly. A fine bit of wall climbing! Did original, historic way.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 30/Nov/14 Sent rpt
Hidden 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Sent dnf
Oddjob 12/Oct/14 Sent x
with Tom, Adam B
jchoochoy 29/Jul/14 Sent x
DaveFidler 16/Jul/14 Solo RP

Historical start, emotional top out when I couldn't find any holds.

Bloke on a Rope 01/Apr/14 Solo dnf

Got to the last move to hit the shelf several times but kept bottling it, will be back with a couple of pads, would still be a big fall but more survivable over pads.

with Vic, Matt
tebs 19/Jan/14 Lead rpt

Pads. Took a rope and finished up Valkyrie

with Adam
Wood for Trees 15/Dec/13 Sent

highball, though heading round the arête to top out makes you think twice about where the mates are.

Duncan Campbell 15/Dec/13 Sent dnf

Got to the last hard move to the flatty, still not quite recovered from Works Party (excuses) felt a bit too pumped and not in enough control to commit to top move. Will come back when more comfortable being above the ground ropeless and in better condition. Psyched for it though!

Matthew Ferrier 04/Dec/13 Solo O/S

Pretty pleased, especially after such a long last move. It's not really 6b though is it. . ?

James Oakes 30/Nov/13 Solo G/U

Direct start, took a few goes to get the first move. Pads.

Hidden ?/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Solo dnf
Haydn Jones 03/Apr/13 Solo RP

Not the best style. Top roped it before solo regret top ropping it top move was easy

birdie1989 29/Mar/13 Solo


masonwoods101 29/Mar/13 Sent β

Flash snowball. 6b+

danjimwill 29/Mar/13 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Mar/13 Solo O/S

Above Pads.

with Dave Brown, Katy Whittaker
Ollie B 04/Jan/13 Solo β

Direct Start (Traverse damp). Ground up. 1 pad.

with S.Bennett
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
tebs 16/Dec/12 Sent dnf

Jumped from near the top move, couldn't commit to the top move partly because I was not too confident of any of the escape options. Will be back with a couple of cams to finish up Valkyrie.

with Adam
Hidden 28/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Solo RP
mark20 30/Sep/12 Lead β


J.Wells 30/Sep/12 Lead β
Hidden 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Keendan 16/Sep/12 Sent rpt

One Pad

BRoe 21/Jul/12 Solo G/U

ground up 2nd try, should of onsighted it.

MarkRoe 21/Jul/12 Lead G/U

Ground up second attempt, fell off the traverse on my first try. I linked this with the last pitch of Valkyrie which made for an awesome lead. Pads used for Oedipus, a fall from the top crux would still have been nasty though.

Keendan 16/May/12 Solo RP

With the traverse this time. Slipped off the traverse first go, got it second. Didn't climb very well though, feet slipping all over the place. Video here

henry peter jenkins 06/May/12 Lead RP

bouldered the hard part to the ledge of valkarie at half hight and had a rope and harness thrown up to finish through the last pitch of valkarie. I did the bottom of this route as a boulder prob last time i was at the crag so it wasnt a onsight, but did do it first go.

with jamie standbridge, emilio bachini
Keendan 21/Mar/12 Lead β

Direct start, no mats. Reached the last hard move the day before but got scared and down climbed. Nice to get it done first thing the next day.

with Remus
Keendan 21/Mar/12 Lead rpt

For the video (finally got the camera to work) still buzzing off doing it 5 min previous.

with Remus
al123 04/Feb/12 Sent

nice to repeat it. cheers to the lads for the pads and spot. Direct start again

with richard
Hidden 12/Jan/12 Solo
al123 12/Jan/12 Solo

Ground up above a load of pads. great climb. macthed at the break then downclimbed and jumped off, too windy and cold to solo up or down valkyrie. Direct start too

Ally Smith 15/Oct/11 Solo rpt

And down climbed

Hidden 15/Oct/11 Sent
AlistairB 15/Oct/11 Solo

Ground up above pads, traverse start. Brilliant!

with Tom Coyne
Chris_barr 03/Sep/11 Lead

Direct Start, Ground up.

with Chris Lockyer
akhughes 14/Apr/11 Solo β

Can't claim an onsight as I had seen Katy W on the ukc vid. awesome highball though. Did 6b start which seems more hard 5c

willackers 06/Mar/11 Solo β

Direct start. Brilliant!

with Ginger Chris
Ed Booth 23/Jan/11 Solo β

Watched Adam do it first then flashed. Did orginal traverse and down soloed Valkyrie.

with Adam Long, Sean Grady
grady ?/Jan/11 Solo O/S
Ethan 11/Dec/10 Solo O/S
with Don Walker
harvie 08/Dec/10 Solo O/S
dodfoster 28/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Excellent climb! Did it the old fashioned way, never 6b though! Lovely sting in the tail!

with mark
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 28/Nov/10 Sent
Richard Hall 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Direct start. Down climbed from last move twice before going for it. Easy when you do. RP fell out when I got to the break, had a bit of a wobble not knowing you have to go to the arete.

with Anais
Somerset swede basher 29/Aug/10 Solo G/U

Had done the traverse previously about 3 years ago. Seem to remember climbing part way up the route too before getting scared and climbing back down. Went smoothly today although it was an ungraceful grovel onto the stance!

with Sarah, Bernie and Lawrence
Bill Lawrence 10/Aug/10 Solo

did the direct start, fell off the first move one first go though, then did it straight after. scary scary scary last move! especially not knowing whether the hold would be any good. first e4 and best climbing experience so far!

irish paul 24/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Mike Goldthorp 13/Mar/10 Solo O/S

Fairly steady mostly, hard stuff is lower down but still an interesting top move. No pads.

Hidden 23/Jan/10 Solo
mic_b 23/Jan/10 Sent x
with James Blake
Hidden 07/Jan/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
lukehunt ??/2010 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Solo
St0neMonkey ??/2010 TR O/S
kingholmesy ??/2010 Solo

Did the direct start at the beginning of the day. Came back to do the right-hand traverse start at the end of the day and fell off the very top ledge due to fatigue, dislocating my finger and pushing the bone out through the front of my hand. Not recommended.

JulesV 20/Oct/09 Solo rpt
mgeek 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S

not 6b , sustained 6a!

with adam hughes
JM 18/Sep/09 Solo
with Andrew Stripp
dan gibson 18/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Alex Mason 06/Sep/09 Solo O/S

had to slap for the top jug, cracking climbing. Then had to call down for rope to do valkyrie, bowlined round waist. Did a hands-abb off the top. (also soloed sunset slab and reversed sunset crack, seconded strapiombo and the big crack.)

with Noaksy, Billy Laurence
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
DaveFidler ?/Jul/09 TR RP
MorganPreece 31/Jan/09 Solo dnf

Fell off the last hold! Next time its going to go!

with Jim, Monty, Nick, Kylie, Ben moon and Jerry moffat
Twisty 17/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Simply the best route I've done. Brilliant open face climbing, and to finish up the second pitch of Valkyrie (my second favorite route) was just brilliant!

Hidden ??/2009 Solo
Hidden 09/Dec/08 Solo
Hidden 20/Nov/08 Solo
Hidden 16/Oct/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/08 Solo RP
Hidden 03/Oct/08 Solo
MYSSAK 17/May/08 Solo rpt
MYSSAK 05/Apr/08 Solo β
Hidden 11/Nov/07 Solo dnf
Ram MkiV 07/Oct/07 Solo

via the original finger traverse in. Quite knarly - took a few goes.

with Alex B, Alex M, Toby
Ram MkiV 20/Sep/07 Solo O/S

direct start

Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 21/Oct/06 Solo
tumbling wizard 16/Oct/06 Solo RP
lukea 15/Oct/06 Sent β
with dan
Castleclimber 15/Oct/06 Sent x
Hidden 26/Apr/06 Solo
Hidden 05/Mar/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/06 Solo O/S
Birdo ??/2006 -
with Dave Bird
Hidden ??/2006 -
bronsonite 27/Sep/05 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Solo RP
Chris Reid ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Solo β
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15/May/04 Solo G/U
Daniel Armitage 06/Mar/04 Solo RP

I climbed the start of this route as a boulder problem some years before doing the whole route. It was soloed ground up, but as John Mason kindly pointed out this is not an onsight....

Dave Bond 16/Mar/03 Solo RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jun/02 Solo O/S
phil64 01/Apr/00 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Roget 11/Oct/97 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1995 TR
Stoney Boy 07/Feb/93 Lead O/S
with Andy MaCallum, Neil McCallum
Hidden ?/Mar/92 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
adi bryant 30/May/91 Solo O/S

Only went to the top because i was too crap at down climbing to get off it. :)

Chris Wright 19/Jan/91 Solo
Hidden User 56 ??/1990 Solo O/S

Date a rough guess

Hidden ??/1989 Solo
ukb & bmc shark ?/Oct/88 Solo β
sadams 03/Aug/87 Solo
with Guy Townsend
Pedro50 01/Jul/87 Solo

No mats in those days

Neil McA 10/May/87 Solo O/S
with Beak 1.
Seb Grieve 04/May/86 Solo O/S

On-sight with the direct start. If you are tall then you can do laps on this all day. Watch out for the flake a mid height, it will come off one day.

Jim Fowler ??/1986 -
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Lone Rider ?/May/84 Solo dnf

Kept bailing at layaway and scuttling back down with Big Ron egging me on. Never did get back to complete it.

Chris Craggs ??/1980 Solo
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 38
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set