15m.

Rockfax Description
The right-trending ramp below the centre of the slab is gained awkwardly (if all else fails try a jump) and climbed via a hard dyno/slap or a harder rock-over. Move up and right to join and finish up Great Slab much more easily. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen (solo) 1976

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Ultimate E5 ticklist

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UserDateNotes
Graham Hoey 23 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Whats wrong with this keyboard? I am five foot seven not 57". There, that must work.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Whats wrong with this keyboard? I am five foot seven not 57". There, that must work.
Graham Hoey 23 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry, 5'7", I'm not 57 yet (but the previuos comment is funnier).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry, 5'7", I'm not 57 yet (but the previuos comment is funnier).
Graham Hoey 23 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: What do you mean ONLY 5'9! I'm 5'7 and I dynoed!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What do you mean ONLY 5'9! I'm 5'7 and I dynoed!
dannyboy83 3 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: No need to dyno, just a delicate smear and reach (I'm only 5'9)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No need to dyno, just a delicate smear and reach (I'm only 5'9)
Ropeboy 15 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A tricky dyno (for the short) leads to a leftward rockover and a rest. Move right and up to make a 2nd leftward rockover to reach the good holds on Great Slab, finish in a fine postion.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A tricky dyno (for the short) leads to a leftward rockover and a rest. Move right and up to make a 2nd leftward rockover to reach the good holds on Great Slab, finish in a fine postion.
Chris Craggs 10 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 5c - hmmmmmm! Must be some new holds up there! Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 5c - hmmmmmm! Must be some new holds up there! Chris
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
rtdennison 21 Aug TR dog Was cool to have a bash at this, would be cool (stupid?) to have an unroped attempt
Was cool to have a bash at this, would be cool (stupid?) to have an unroped attempt
lucybradbury 21 Aug TR dnf Well the first move was great, couldn't tell you about the rest
Well the first move was great, couldn't tell you about the rest
@samtaylorphotos 21 Aug TR dnf How the hell do you do the direct finish to this bad boy?
with lucybradbury, Rob
How the hell do you do the direct finish to this bad boy?
with lucybradbury, Rob
JoeFoster59 25 Mar TR RP Really cool boulder problem on top rope did it clean twice once finishing up Hairless Heart and once up Hairy Heart. Super technical but fairly easy with height nowhere near up for the solo but nice to know routes like this are possible for me,
Really cool boulder problem on top rope did it clean twice once finishing up Hairless Heart and once up Hairy Heart. Super technical but fairly easy with height nowhere near up for the solo but nice to know routes like this are possible for me,
themattyshep 15 Feb Solo β Mega
Mega
benkelsey 24 Nov, 2018 Sent dnf Suffering from a stiff ankle, swollen Achilles and a distinct lack of commitment
Suffering from a stiff ankle, swollen Achilles and a distinct lack of commitment
James Oswald 10 Nov, 2018 Sent dnf Scary. Keen to come back and do the hard section then jump off before the top bit..
Scary. Keen to come back and do the hard section then jump off before the top bit..
Teappleby 10 Nov, 2018 Sent rpt Remembered how nice this was, even if my legs was shaking massively from the beer and was climbing awfully.
Remembered how nice this was, even if my legs was shaking massively from the beer and was climbing awfully.
spidey 7 Oct, 2018 TR O/S
GeorgiePorgie1 7 Oct, 2018 TR
with spidey
with spidey
Mischa2912 23 Jul, 2018 Solo RP
08nbrierley 10 May, 2018 TR
with Jack, Jamie Skelton
with Jack, Jamie Skelton
08nbrierley 10 May, 2018 TR
with Jack, Jamie Skelton
with Jack, Jamie Skelton
Jamie Skelton 10 May, 2018 TR RP
Matt Harle 12 Nov, 2017 Solo dnf Above 1 pad, came unstuck a metre or two below joining great slab, missed the pad..
Above 1 pad, came unstuck a metre or two below joining great slab, missed the pad..
Hidden 17 Oct, 2017 Solo RP
mrteale 17 Oct, 2017 Solo RP A couple of go's on TR then soloed without pads. Had a brief scare when I forgot the last move before the big ledge but kept it together.
with remus
A couple of go's on TR then soloed without pads. Had a brief scare when I forgot the last move before the big ledge but kept it together.
with remus
Hidden 14 Oct, 2017 Solo O/S
Hidden 12 Oct, 2017 Solo dnf
Hidden 17 Sep, 2017 TR RP
Hidden 22 May, 2017 Solo O/S
Andy Moles 16 Mar, 2017 Sent x As a highball (with an easy solo to top out). f6c to the ledge? Description is odd, gaining the ramp is the easy part and definitely doesn't require a jump.
As a highball (with an easy solo to top out). f6c to the ledge? Description is odd, gaining the ramp is the easy part and definitely doesn't require a jump.
Hidden 26 Apr, 2016 Solo RP
Ram MkiV 15 Feb, 2016 Solo rpt
Louishmouis 10 Feb, 2016 Solo
with Felix
with Felix
jacob shieldhouse hadley 3 Oct, 2015 Solo dnf did dyno got onto the ramp but was slippy as a fish. and took a big ground fall
did dyno got onto the ramp but was slippy as a fish. and took a big ground fall
MischaHY 1 Oct, 2015 Solo O/S One tiny pad did not help in the slightest on the terrifying upper moves. So psyched!
One tiny pad did not help in the slightest on the terrifying upper moves. So psyched!
harry_lewis 22 Sep, 2015 Sent x
Teappleby 22 Sep, 2015 Solo G/U 3rd go today. First after I got the right beta for the upper section.
3rd go today. First after I got the right beta for the upper section.
Jake Young 25 May, 2015 Solo G/U Above two pads, best move is the one where you stand on a smear with no handholds then grab your foot and stick it on the high foothold while pigeons circle.
Above two pads, best move is the one where you stand on a smear with no handholds then grab your foot and stick it on the high foothold while pigeons circle.
Nick1812P 25 May, 2015 Solo G/U Above pads.
Above pads.
amccann 25 May, 2015 Solo G/U Above 2 pads. Still felt like a solo.
Above 2 pads. Still felt like a solo.
Hidden 5 Oct, 2014 TR RP
Matthew Ferrier 21 Sep, 2014 Sent x Many pads, still got shakey. Not too hard with decent beta.
Many pads, still got shakey. Not too hard with decent beta.
Teappleby 21 Sep, 2014 Solo dnf couldn't get past the first hard rock over with the conditions like they were, might come though with less sun.
couldn't get past the first hard rock over with the conditions like they were, might come though with less sun.
mike mo ??, 2014 2nd
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Ram MkiV 28 Dec, 2013 Sent rpt
with noaks, Guy
with noaks, Guy
admackie 19 Nov, 2013 Solo O/S onsight, thought it was great slab, where's the dyno? perhaps im too tall
onsight, thought it was great slab, where's the dyno? perhaps im too tall
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Mar, 2013 Solo O/S
with Jill Whittaker, Tim Hill, Katy Whittaker
with Jill Whittaker, Tim Hill, Katy Whittaker
dannyboy83 7 Oct, 2012 Solo O/S
Colin177 6 Oct, 2012 TR
with James Morley
with James Morley
gingerwolf 2 Jan, 2012 TR RP
mwatson 17 Oct, 2011 TR
with shunt
with shunt
chrishedgehog 25 Apr, 2011 2nd dog
with S. Hunt
with S. Hunt
akhughes 14 Apr, 2011 Solo O/S
Mike Goldthorp 3 Mar, 2011 Solo O/S Nice! Tricky moves, fairly powerful for a slab. 1 pad to level out the landing, which I was grateful for. Shame Hairless Heart was wet, would have liked to do the combination
Nice! Tricky moves, fairly powerful for a slab. 1 pad to level out the landing, which I was grateful for. Shame Hairless Heart was wet, would have liked to do the combination
PeteH 2 Mar, 2011 TR RP Climbed clean from the first ledge after a few goes. Doubt I will ever solo this. Awesome moves though.
with highlux
Climbed clean from the first ledge after a few goes. Doubt I will ever solo this. Awesome moves though.
with highlux
James Oakes 12 Feb, 2011 Solo G/U 3rd go GU, 3 pads. Awesome route.
3rd go GU, 3 pads. Awesome route.
Hidden 12 Feb, 2011 Sent dnf
hamer89 3 Feb, 2011 Solo β
Ed Booth 23 Jan, 2011 Solo 3rd go. Nearly flashed it.
with Adam Long, grady
3rd go. Nearly flashed it.
with Adam Long, grady
Ram MkiV 26 Nov, 2010 Solo rpt highlight of intended active rest solo sesh. no new ticks but good to be doing some moves at height again without suffering terror.
highlight of intended active rest solo sesh. no new ticks but good to be doing some moves at height again without suffering terror.
Hidden ?Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
barni 13 Oct, 2010 Solo dnf fell off after dyno move. bent finger back on landing so ran away
fell off after dyno move. bent finger back on landing so ran away
Pete Graham 14 Apr, 2010 Solo
C coldwell-storry 10 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S above pads.
with rob lay
above pads.
with rob lay
malx ?Mar, 2010 Solo O/S
scott gibson ??, 2010 Solo O/S 2007 snow
with james abley
2007 snow
with james abley
chris m fisher 5 Sep, 2009 Solo O/S Used a matt - highball boulder problem?
Used a matt - highball boulder problem?
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 2 May, 2009 Solo β Slim was calling out some help along the first part of the route so can't really call it a pure onsight. I was pretty gripped tbh!
Slim was calling out some help along the first part of the route so can't really call it a pure onsight. I was pretty gripped tbh!
tuftynick ?Apr, 2009 Solo rpt
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Apr, 2009 Solo
Hidden 9 Dec, 2008 Solo
Dave Bond 9 Dec, 2008 Solo rpt
Andrew Sloan 15 Jun, 2008 TR dnf
MYSSAK 17 May, 2008 Solo rpt
phil64 ??, 2008 Solo O/S
Hidden 11 Dec, 2007 Solo dnf
Hidden 20 Nov, 2007 Solo RP
Hidden 6 Nov, 2007 Solo O/S
MYSSAK 4 Nov, 2007 Solo β
Somerset swede basher 18 Oct, 2007 Solo G/U Ground up, second attempt (above 3 mats). Did Downhill Racer after clean onsight, Artless was harder.
Ground up, second attempt (above 3 mats). Did Downhill Racer after clean onsight, Artless was harder.
Alex Mason 7 Oct, 2007 Solo decked out first go entering great slab, slightly stung! got back on and found it fine E4 6a.
with K, steve, alex, toby
decked out first go entering great slab, slightly stung! got back on and found it fine E4 6a.
with K, steve, alex, toby
Ram MkiV 20 Sep, 2007 Solo O/S
Jake Shaw ?Mar, 2007 Lead O/S Above a mat although not actually above the mat!
Above a mat although not actually above the mat!
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Hidden 20 Dec, 2006 Solo O/S
nathanmanc ?Apr, 2006 Solo rpt
Ally Smith ??, 2006 Solo O/S Date a guess
Date a guess
bronsonite 26 Nov, 2005 Solo O/S
Hidden 13 Nov, 2005 Solo RP
Hidden ?Nov, 2005 Solo RP
Ropeboy 15 Feb, 2005 Solo
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Solo O/S
Dave Bond 16 Mar, 2003 Solo
with sam
with sam
lx ?Mar, 2003 Solo ground up, 2nd go
ground up, 2nd go
tuftynick ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with Tidy
with Tidy
dan_o_b ??, 2002 TR RP
Hidden ?Nov, 2000 TR O/S
Hidden 27 Apr, 2000 TR dnf
simes303 ??, 2000 Solo RP Easy for E5.
Easy for E5.
Boy ??, 2000 -
tlr ??, 2000 Solo O/S
Hidden 2 Feb, 1998 Solo dnf
Jon Read ?Jan, 1998 Solo RP No mats.
with Tanya Holdsworth
No mats.
with Tanya Holdsworth
kato'sdad ?Oct, 1997 TR
RobSimmo ?Oct, 1997 TR
Dave Musgrove 9 Mar, 1997 2nd β with Hairless finish
with Hairless finish
Dave Musgrove Jnr 9 Mar, 1997 Solo O/S
SR1970 ?Mar, 1997 Solo RP
Si Witcher ??, 1997 Solo O/S E4.
E4.
Davros the Psyched ??, 1996 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
Hidden ??, 1995 TR
Hidden 21 Aug, 1994 TR
Stoney Boy 10 Aug, 1993 Solo RP With a massive hangover after leaving the 3 Stags at Lord knows what time and sleeping in the car park......
With a massive hangover after leaving the 3 Stags at Lord knows what time and sleeping in the car park......
adi bryant ?May, 1993 TR O/S
Hidden 20 Mar, 1993 TR
Sean Kelly ?Jun, 1992 TR Short but brilliant climbing. Flashed this on the first attempt, then couldn't get off the ground when I tried it a few years later. Finished up GS.
with John Hynes
Short but brilliant climbing. Flashed this on the first attempt, then couldn't get off the ground when I tried it a few years later. Finished up GS.
with John Hynes
Hidden 27 Mar, 1991 TR
craig h 19 May, 1990 -
ajtay ??, 1989 Solo O/S
with Various
with Various
craig d ??, 1988 Solo O/S
Mike Owen 10 Nov, 1985 Solo RP
with Joe Picalli
with Joe Picalli
Dave Musgrove 12 Jun, 1985 TR
with Kim Greenald
with Kim Greenald
sadams 26 Jun, 1984 TR
with Pete Herrod
with Pete Herrod
Lone Rider ?May, 1984 Solo O/S Soloed in the days of a little bit of carpet and when it was E4 6a
Soloed in the days of a little bit of carpet and when it was E4 6a
Andy Stephenson 28 Sep, 1983 TR
Hidden ??, 1980 Solo
paul mitchell ??, 1978 Solo about 4 falls .no mat (didn't exist) I thought this was a Bancroft route,not an Allen route.
about 4 falls .no mat (didn't exist) I thought this was a Bancroft route,not an Allen route.
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 30
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set