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UKClimbing Team

22m.

Rockfax Description
Start on the left and climb the 'coffin' crack to a chockstone, then move right and climb the wall (a bit bold) to a possible (sensible?) stance (4c). Climb to the roof then traverse round the arete rightwards to slopers and ashort finishing crack (4b ). © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1951

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Phil Lyon 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I guess the crux is the boldness required to lean out over a very suddenly exposed wall and reach up and out. I also wondered about protection for that move but it is there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I guess the crux is the boldness required to lean out over a very suddenly exposed wall and reach up and out. I also wondered about protection for that move but it is there.
CragHead 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The protection is poor (should be HVS). Interesting top pitch !!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The protection is poor (should be HVS). Interesting top pitch !!
Jamie B 5 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is spectacular but easy for 4b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is spectacular but easy for 4b.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Robgoesmoo 14 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S Fab. Hard rock over to gain the first ledge.
with Mark Chapman, Lewis Adams
Fab. Hard rock over to gain the first ledge.
with Mark Chapman, Lewis Adams
smoreda 20 Aug, 2019 Lead A very good adventure at VS!
A very good adventure at VS!
buxtoncoffeelover 20 Aug, 2019 2nd Led by Silve in 2 sections. From the stance moved right to the arete & up to the roof & then to the finishing crack (should have paid more attention to the guidebook!)
Led by Silve in 2 sections. From the stance moved right to the arete & up to the roof & then to the finishing crack (should have paid more attention to the guidebook!)
Handsforfeet 20 Aug, 2019 2nd First pitch is quite bold
First pitch is quite bold
ssutton 18 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S Nice and interesting, extend runners, not particularly green
Nice and interesting, extend runners, not particularly green
andymorris17 18 Aug, 2019 2nd β A wandering line with interesting and distinctly different sections of climbing, not bad.
with Steve, Martin
A wandering line with interesting and distinctly different sections of climbing, not bad.
with Steve, Martin
ssutton 18 Aug, 2019 2nd Retrieving gear
Retrieving gear
V1c 11 Aug, 2019 2nd It has a character: Awful, slimy but equally bitch to everyone. The first section is hard and bold for the short, but the upper "horizontal chimney" takes the dignity of tall/average climbers who needs to crawl in the outward slanting crack. The dead sheep and the puddle with maggots dangerously close to the belay makes the finish just perfect!
It has a character: Awful, slimy but equally bitch to everyone. The first section is hard and bold for the short, but the upper "horizontal chimney" takes the dignity of tall/average climbers who needs to crawl in the outward slanting crack. The dead sheep and the puddle with maggots dangerously close to the belay makes the finish just perfect!
GermanAlex 11 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S Let's call it a connoisseurs route - and we all know what that means on Grit. The bottom would be considerably easier (i.e. less scary) if the route were in "Stanage condition", which I strongly suspect it never is unless you took a power washer.
with V1c
Let's call it a connoisseurs route - and we all know what that means on Grit. The bottom would be considerably easier (i.e. less scary) if the route were in "Stanage condition", which I strongly suspect it never is unless you took a power washer.
with V1c
w-watson 7 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
MrFantastic 25 May, 2019 Solo O/S
josefft 16 May, 2019 Lead O/S
with Seb - PCC
with Seb - PCC
Jim Slater 16 May, 2019 Lead O/S
with Dave Vincent
with Dave Vincent
Hidden 15 May, 2019 Lead
max_chan 30 Apr, 2019 Lead rpt
with NinaR
with NinaR
NinaR 30 Apr, 2019 2nd O/S
slab_happy 23 Apr, 2019 AltLd In two pitches; led the first one.
with Hilary
In two pitches; led the first one.
with Hilary
Hidden 22 Apr, 2019 AltLd rpt
stratandrew 21 Apr, 2019 2nd O/S
with Andy Vine
with Andy Vine
Rocknast ??, 2019 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle 23 Oct, 2018 Lead
Michelle_250 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
kermit_uk 7 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
with Michelle_250, Steve Woolass
with Michelle_250, Steve Woolass
Hidden 13 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Deezel65 20 May, 2018 2nd O/S Awkward around the arete
Awkward around the arete
Philip Gardiner 20 May, 2018 2nd
amccann 20 Aug, 2017 Solo rpt
theemurr 8 May, 2017 TR O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2017 AltLd
duncana 29 Apr, 2017 Lead Really enjoyed this, lots of interest, weaving a line up and across under the crag. Took a minute to figure out how to get round under the nose.
with Pippa Archer
Really enjoyed this, lots of interest, weaving a line up and across under the crag. Took a minute to figure out how to get round under the nose.
with Pippa Archer
john lynch 12 Aug, 2016 Solo
Hidden 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 5 May, 2016 Solo Highly recommended for gritstone esoterica perverts. Maybe you don't have to crawl around the arete but I did.
Highly recommended for gritstone esoterica perverts. Maybe you don't have to crawl around the arete but I did.
JasonK 5 May, 2016 2nd
with Glen
with Glen
Flavio 22 Apr, 2016 Solo O/S
Bradbury 26 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Mum
with Mum
shaunhumphreys 10 Mar, 2015 Lead dnf did some weird combination of this and hearse arete by accident got totaly boxed as it was a warm up and had to rest/lower to the ledge then re did it still finishing through the roof
did some weird combination of this and hearse arete by accident got totaly boxed as it was a warm up and had to rest/lower to the ledge then re did it still finishing through the roof
Matt Harmon 10 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S fairly awkward getting round the arete!
with Steph Hunter
fairly awkward getting round the arete!
with Steph Hunter
amccann 10 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
Sam McCarthy 10 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S ended up going up the E1 finish of hearse arrete
ended up going up the E1 finish of hearse arrete
pimpy 7 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 7 Mar, 2015 2nd dog Tight rope at the start.
Tight rope at the start.
Matt Groom ??, 2015 -
Hidden 21 Sep, 2014 Solo O/S
Nick1812P 9 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
hotfeet 5 May, 2014 Lead
with StuartP
with StuartP
jason smeeth 5 May, 2014 2nd
eduardo 3 May, 2014 AltLd rpt
Hidden 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Jenny Monkey 13 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with Lukem6
with Lukem6
deacondeacon 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Nice, varied climbing. Shuffling round the arête was pretty awkward though!
Nice, varied climbing. Shuffling round the arête was pretty awkward though!
jamie ward 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Split into 2 pitches - Led 1st pitch
with Steve Smith
Split into 2 pitches - Led 1st pitch
with Steve Smith
mapperley samurai 27 Jul, 2013 2nd
davidalcock 27 Jul, 2013 Lead One pitch. After excavating a cam placement at foot level on the first ledge, found myself calling Joe Brown a rude name when I reached the midway ledges. More like Vs 4b with a 4c move. Quite commiting. Enjoyed the squat shuffle rightwards, but found the pull out a bit spooky. Definitely a varied and interesting route.
One pitch. After excavating a cam placement at foot level on the first ledge, found myself calling Joe Brown a rude name when I reached the midway ledges. More like Vs 4b with a 4c move. Quite commiting. Enjoyed the squat shuffle rightwards, but found the pull out a bit spooky. Definitely a varied and interesting route.
max_chan 11 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Very nice. Some tricky moves but lots of rests too.
with Andy Prichard
Very nice. Some tricky moves but lots of rests too.
with Andy Prichard
Hidden 7 Jul, 2013 Lead
Hidden 7 Jul, 2013 2nd
john lynch 7 Jun, 2013 Lead
with ed luke
with ed luke
davewsargent 5 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with pete bush
with pete bush
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 2nd
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 2nd β
crossleysm ?Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Jenny Clarke ?Apr, 2013 2nd
with paul
with paul
Hidden 2 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
Alex.M-M. 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with cdfh
with cdfh
SGD 28 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Done in 2 pitches, I lead p1 - bloody hard getting past the chockstone then a bold bit (green) to the belay
with rob1
Done in 2 pitches, I lead p1 - bloody hard getting past the chockstone then a bold bit (green) to the belay
with rob1
rob1 28 Jul, 2012 2nd
with SGD
with SGD
Hidden 22 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
chumleywarner 1 Oct, 2011 TR O/S
with charley
with charley
charley 1 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S In one pitch! Really nice route - it's a mini adventure. Great rock-over and mantle, bold slab, tricky move onto the arete then an awesome finish. Did the line as it shows in BMC, going directly up the arete from the ledge and not using the centre crack as it shows in Rockfax. Not sure which is the correct line? Oh and had to share the halfway ledge with a sheep...
with Clare, chumleywarner
In one pitch! Really nice route - it's a mini adventure. Great rock-over and mantle, bold slab, tricky move onto the arete then an awesome finish. Did the line as it shows in BMC, going directly up the arete from the ledge and not using the centre crack as it shows in Rockfax. Not sure which is the correct line? Oh and had to share the halfway ledge with a sheep...
with Clare, chumleywarner
stuaart 7 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Led as one pitch.
with Sandra McCabe, Neil Redgrave
Led as one pitch.
with Sandra McCabe, Neil Redgrave
treg 30 Jul, 2011 2nd Ace climb. Bit of everything. Nice rockover onto the chockstone, bold slab, committing traverse and juggy finish.
with Rachel
Ace climb. Bit of everything. Nice rockover onto the chockstone, bold slab, committing traverse and juggy finish.
with Rachel
Mike Tutt 9 Jun, 2011 Lead
Steven Andrews 15 May, 2011 Lead O/S Really tough move at the top of the initial crack but great climbing with just enough gear from then on
with Ben, Rachel Berkowitz
Really tough move at the top of the initial crack but great climbing with just enough gear from then on
with Ben, Rachel Berkowitz
geddicakes 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with James Restorick
with James Restorick
tiga271 23 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Andy
with Andy
Liam Ingram 23 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
ajc 22 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
garethb 7 Apr, 2011 Lead
with cheque
with cheque
Hidden 7 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
Dave Mason 23 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Trev Tatler
with Trev Tatler
Hidden 20 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Jonathan Hall 17 Oct, 2010 Lead
with Rob Collett
with Rob Collett
DavidEvans 10 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
with Helen Garrett
with Helen Garrett
chrisallan 25 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 2nd
nathanlee 22 Sep, 2010 Solo O/S
Hidden 16 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
jlismore 25 Aug, 2010 Lead
with David Castle
with David Castle
Hidden 4 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 2nd
Hidden ?Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
tradguy 30 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with ed_1973
with ed_1973
ed_1973 30 May, 2010 2nd
with tradguy
with tradguy
John Pickles 25 May, 2010 2nd
with Kieran Hodgson
with Kieran Hodgson
Hidden 22 May, 2010 Solo
Byronius Maximus 16 May, 2010 Lead O/S Nicer than it looks from the ground.
with Paul Dewey
Nicer than it looks from the ground.
with Paul Dewey
Hidden 2 May, 2010 2nd
adrianscott 16 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
popebenedictus 16 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
scrat 10 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf AGGGHHHHHHH! small fall to be had, on last section and did not complete the official route, the finish looks like a ladder but full of slopers
AGGGHHHHHHH! small fall to be had, on last section and did not complete the official route, the finish looks like a ladder but full of slopers
Hidden 14 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S
neilmackie 14 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??, 2010 -
Birdo 17 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ceri Lewis
with Ceri Lewis
Phil1967 5 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S
with smudge
with smudge
smudge 5 Oct, 2009 AltLd
lithos 4 Oct, 2009 Lead
with cookie
with cookie
Hidden 26 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Jim Walton 26 Sep, 2009 2nd
Guy ?May, 2009 2nd
jcurley 18 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S
with FedUp
with FedUp
Hidden 7 Mar, 2009 2nd
Hidden 7 Mar, 2009 Lead
swmackey ?Feb, 2009 Lead
with sihills
with sihills
paul birch ??, 2009 -
Hidden 22 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S
JHM 22 Nov, 2008 2nd dog couldn't take out gear at the top, had to weight ropes. Too cold and getting dark so couldn't see much!
couldn't take out gear at the top, had to weight ropes. Too cold and getting dark so couldn't see much!
Another James 10 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead second pitch
with Jamie T
Lead second pitch
with Jamie T
btc 11 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with ian lovatt
with ian lovatt
victim of mathematics 11 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Jim
with Jim
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 -
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
Stig 20 Oct, 2007 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Teale
with Jonathan Teale
OffshoreAndy 6 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with NCC Kelvin
with NCC Kelvin
Pilch 5 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S Lead in one pitch, , useful cam in pocket on wall , top half is good fun and committing move after traverse under overhang.
with Ed
Lead in one pitch, , useful cam in pocket on wall , top half is good fun and committing move after traverse under overhang.
with Ed
Sidekick 10 Jul, 2007 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?Jul, 2007 Solo O/S
Neil Adams 10 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Andre & Adrian
with Andre & Adrian
Hidden 21 Apr, 2007 Lead
Mattyk 7 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
with John Marsham
with John Marsham
KristianBirchall 17 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Claire Chadderton
with Claire Chadderton
John Lisle ??, 2006 -
John Lisle ??, 2006 -
Hidden 28 May, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2005 2nd
Cake 22 May, 2005 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?Apr, 2005 Lead
with Ropeboy
with Ropeboy
JohnHutch 11 Oct, 2004 AltLd
with L
with L
Hidden 6 Jun, 2004 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 May, 2004 AltLd O/S
mikej 18 May, 2004 AltLd
with Rick Naylor
with Rick Naylor
RussB 25 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Leigh
with Leigh
Penny Longstaff 31 May, 2003 Lead O/S
John Southworth 25 May, 2003 Solo
with Vicky Munn
with Vicky Munn
snowy owl ?May, 2003 2nd
Hidden ??, 2003 AltLd
Phil West 14 Sep, 2002 AltLd O/S I led first pitch. Scary!
with Chris Tan
I led first pitch. Scary!
with Chris Tan
duncan 13 Sep, 2002 Lead O/S
DerwentDiluted 11 Jun, 2002 AltLd
with Laurie Smith
with Laurie Smith
Darragh ??, 2002 -
with Hanna
with Hanna
Iain Brown 11 May, 2001 -
with Ricardo
with Ricardo
Hidden ?Sep, 2000 Lead
marcoleptic ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Ben
with Ben
Hidden 26 Jul, 1999 2nd O/S
BlueJohn ?Apr, 1999 2nd
with Al
with Al
rlrs ??, 1999 AltLd
Roget 13 Sep, 1998 Solo rpt
Iain Thow 30 Aug, 1998 AltLd Lead pitch 1
with Jeremy (High Peak Group)
Lead pitch 1
with Jeremy (High Peak Group)
Ropeboy 5 Jul, 1998 Lead
Budge 2 Jul, 1998 AltLd O/S
with CarlMonster, Mike Oates
with CarlMonster, Mike Oates
Mark Stevenson 8 Feb, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Pete Kirkham
with Pete Kirkham
goi.ashmore 8 Feb, 1998 Lead O/S
with Jamie
with Jamie
kato'sdad 22 Oct, 1997 AltLd
RobSimmo 22 Oct, 1997 AltLd O/S Lead 1st pitch
Lead 1st pitch
brady 6 Jul, 1997 Lead
with John Cameron
with John Cameron
Mick King 10 Oct, 1996 2nd
with Karl Lunt
with Karl Lunt
colin milton 18 May, 1996 AltLd
with eric milton
with eric milton
Rog Wilko ?Nov, 1995 Lead
with Alan Nuttall
with Alan Nuttall
roncaves 8 Jul, 1995 AltLd
rurp ??, 1995 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 14 May, 1994 AltLd
with Rachel Nicolson
with Rachel Nicolson
daprince ??, 1994 Lead
Rob Davies ?May, 1993 AltLd
with Roy Lindsay, Mike Papworth
with Roy Lindsay, Mike Papworth
Hidden 16 May, 1992 Solo
nai ??, 1992 Lead
with Roger Devy
with Roger Devy
Laramadness 13 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
babymoac 26 May, 1990 Lead
with Graeme
with Graeme
Roget 18 Feb, 1990 2nd O/S
with jim
with jim
Hidden 20 May, 1989 Lead
RichardMc 9 Apr, 1989 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
with Dave Langmead
Hidden 7 Feb, 1989 Solo
Pete Pozman ?Aug, 1988 2nd O/S
with John Byrne
with John Byrne
Hidden 10 Apr, 1988 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 26 Apr, 1987 -
with JD
with JD
steve prior ?Jul, 1986 Lead
with Sam M
with Sam M
ajtay ??, 1986 -
sadams 3 Nov, 1985 Lead
with Mark Bonham
with Mark Bonham
morganator ?Sep, 1985 Lead O/S First VS lead
with Richard Morgan
First VS lead
with Richard Morgan
steveb2006 3 May, 1985 Solo
DonnyDave 10 Aug, 1983 2nd
with Richard Tuting, Simon ????
with Richard Tuting, Simon ????
Nigel Bond 25 Jun, 1983 Lead
with Rodger Edenborough
with Rodger Edenborough
tapley 7 Feb, 1982 -
with Chris Seymour
with Chris Seymour
Brian Wilderspin 6 Jun, 1981 2nd O/S
Rob Davies ?Feb, 1981 Lead
with Tony Welsh
with Tony Welsh
paul__in_sheffield ??, 1980 Lead
Mark Kemball 21 Apr, 1979 Lead
Hidden 3 May, 1977 AltLd
RichardMc 6 Jul, 1975 Lead
with Ken Salter, Betty Seifert
with Ken Salter, Betty Seifert
rogerskews ?Apr, 1972 -
with Various
with Various
Dave Musgrove 21 Jul, 1968 -
mikej 4 Mar, 1967 Lead
with Steve Radford, Nigel Sumner
with Steve Radford, Nigel Sumner
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 46
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set