Rockfax Description
A thin crack in the smooth wall leads to a deep break which is tricky to attain a standing position in. More like E1 if the aretes are avoided. From sitting it is Howships Lacunae, f6C. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Higginbotham 1985

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

LDJ 23/Sep Lead
with Amy
DannyMac86 19/Aug TR
Marl 16/Jul Solo O/S
charvey 02/Jul Solo dnf

Got to the break but went no further and downclimbed back, twice.

tonto169 01/Jul Lead
Chris Ellis 03/Jun TR
with mel holmes, Chris Tingle, Louise Pellett, Helen Odwell
abathingjames 23/Apr Solo RP
lewiswilson 09/Apr 2nd dog
Hidden 08/Apr TR dog
Hidden 08/Apr Solo dnf
James Oakes 04/Apr Solo O/S
with Dan Middleton, Georgia Townend
Hidden 24/Mar Solo
Rob Gillespie 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
fuzzysheep01 25/Sep/16 Solo O/S

Hard getting established in and leaving the break. Nice wee route in my eyes.

Dale Comley 14/Aug/16 Solo O/S
Jack00 17/Apr/16 Solo O/S
atom 11/Oct/15 Solo dnf
dominic lee 06/Jun/15 Solo
Robin Nichols 12/Mar/15 Solo O/S
loco wilko ?/Oct/14 Solo
Hidden 29/Aug/14 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/14 Solo
Retro Rowan 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with John Williams
Hidden 11/Mar/14 2nd
Andy Clarke 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Done without aretes at E1 5c. A tough fingery start, with a pop for the break, which felt more like 5c than the balancy stand-up at the top.

deacondeacon 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Found the crux to be standing up in the break. the top felt trivial. No Aretes

MarkRoe 13/Sep/13 Solo O/S
Hardcore Pat 27/Jun/13 Solo RP
John Bish ?/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Bill Spittal
Reds 17/Feb/13 Lead dnf
Jake Young 06/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Graeme Hammond 01/Jul/12 Solo O/S
31770 19/May/12 Lead
Hidden 18/May/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 TR
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
AC 16/Oct/11 2nd β
lozowen 19/Aug/11 Solo
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead dog
eel 26/Jul/11 Solo O/S
adam carless 18/Jul/11 Lead O/S

leaving the big break was definitely the crux, mind you getting there wasn't easy either. Top section was pretty easy by comparison.

victim of mathematics 18/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Felt a lot like 5c to me! And as the only gear is low down, and eliminating the arete at the top makes that move 5c, how would that still be E1?

with Adam
dpmUK 18/Jul/11 2nd dog
steve2006 15/May/11 Lead rpt

slipped the first time then found the secret undercut

elCapitano 15/May/11 Solo O/S

Finished left.

jshields 13/Nov/10 Solo
Jimbo C 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Good couple of moves, good route name. Shame about the finish (or lack of)

with Chris
Joe Costello 02/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with Ellie, Matt
dprctr 14/Sep/10 Lead dog

Fun, but messed it up, Underated

Hidden 13/Sep/10 Sent x
bwow ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
phildavies84 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Prob worth coming back to lead. Nice and technical to stand up at 1/2 height. Top half was fun fridge hugging!!

with Terry
popebenedictus 21/Jun/10 Solo rpt
with Soloed
paul__in_sheffield 17/Apr/10 Solo O/S
with Noodle
Hidden 17/Apr/10 TR dnf
climbing_wiggy 07/Nov/09 TR β
with Leon
Lenny 07/Nov/09 TR dog
with Paul
Jonathan Hall 04/Oct/09 Solo
disturbed_one51 04/Oct/09 Solo
Mark_RMC 17/Aug/09 2nd

An entertaining test piece / boulder problem at the end. Rob spent a long time trying to do this on a lead and ended up setting up a top rope. The hard move is getting onto the horizontal break and then moving up. Hard.

with Rob Smart
Rampikino 05/Jul/09 TR
with Cat
Jeronimo 19/Jun/09 Solo
minaturechris 02/May/09 Lead dog

Attempted to repeat the climb to get it clean but was too pumped from the first attempt to complete the moves.

sean72 21/Mar/09 TR dnf
with Chadrads
chadrads 21/Mar/09 TR O/S
Mattyk 20/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Pretty stiff.. tricky moves - 1st lead of the year. Was to chicken to solo it.

with Tim Kavanagh
mike278 04/Jan/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
kitkat78 19/Oct/08 2nd
with SteveM
SteveM 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Kat
AJ007 10/Sep/08 Solo
Hidden 30/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Somerset swede basher 08/Sep/07 Solo O/S
with Sarah, Abi and Dave
tradguy 29/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Mark Hazell
Mike_Hayes 18/Apr/07 Solo
popebenedictus 06/Apr/07 TR O/S
chiverstom 01/Nov/06 Solo O/S
with Dave Turner
kitkat78 ?/Nov/06 2nd
with Nick McK
PanzerHanzler 08/Oct/06 Lead dnf
with David Rafe
FrankW 14/May/06 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden ??/2006 -
Nicos 20/Dec/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 19/Oct/05 TR
Hidden 05/Jun/05 2nd
Theeni 16/Apr/05 Solo O/S
with Matt Dalby
LankyPaddy 01/Apr/05 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/04 Solo O/S
Mark Stevenson 24/May/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/May/02 Solo
Hidden ?/Sep/00 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/98 Solo O/S
ajoliver 18/Apr/98 Solo O/S
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set