Rockfax Description
A bit of an expedition, best saved for quiet days. Climb the chimney to a cave and gain the ledge on the right. Follow this to its end then make tricky moves to access the slab further right again. Cross this to its right-hand edge then finish easily. © Rockfax

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Hidden 17/Oct Lead rpt
Mikethe boar 26/Aug Lead O/S
with Elliot
Mikethe boar 26/Aug Lead
with Elliot
Elliot101 26/Aug 2nd
with Miketheboar
charvey 24/Aug Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Aug Lead
keitht 16/Jul Solo
Marl 16/Jul Solo O/S
Keith11 15/Jul 2nd β
with Sam Hardcastle
tonto169 01/Jul -
Theeni 25/Jun Solo O/S
mop449 18/Jun Solo O/S

Sunrise solo. One interesting move.

fechtn 12/Jun 2nd
with Karen (PCC)
RyanR 11/Jun 2nd O/S
JoeLucas ?/Jun Lead O/S
9fingerjon 28/May 2nd O/S
with Jack, Tim
Hidden 07/May Lead rpt
Lydaisy 07/May 2nd
slab_happy 08/Apr 2nd
with Hazel
hazeysunshine 08/Apr Lead O/S
with Clare S
Hidden 02/Apr Solo
georgenvk 19/Nov/16 2nd O/S
with Hrb
Fiona Hughes 22/Oct/16 Lead
with SP
Hidden 22/Oct/16 2nd
BusyLizzie 01/Oct/16 2nd dog

Fell off when doing what the guidebook calls "tricky moves to access the slab" - I very nearly managed a very neat move but not quite...

buxtoncoffeelover 01/Oct/16 Lead

Diversion via porthole (on the Direct) to the ledge. Entertaining/thought-provoking move off the ledge to access slab best taken .........(?)

PeteH 30/Sep/16 Solo O/S
fuzzysheep01 25/Sep/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead
James Oakes 10/Aug/16 Solo O/S
Prof. Outdoors 04/Jun/16 2nd
with Simon, Lorna
tracyclimber 20/May/16 Lead

bit of rope drag at the end of the traverse

with Graham Sullivan
ht543 19/May/16 2nd
with Krish
rohai545 19/May/16 Lead
with Helen
Hidden 16/May/16 Lead
papasmurf 03/May/16 Lead

Good fun

with Simon Stokes
David Henchliffe 13/Apr/16 Lead
MikeDowsett 13/Apr/16 2nd
with David Henchcliffe
Hidden ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 28/Nov/15 Lead
PEccleston 08/Nov/15 Lead

Did a slight variation on the finish by not traversing all the way to the right. Always feels good to climb horizontally though.

Capricorn One 23/Sep/15 2nd
with Mark Benton
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead G/U
Tony7553 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
tedburt 30/May/15 Solo O/S
Fellmonkey 26/May/15 Lead
with Steve C
heywoodj 19/May/15 Solo O/S

did the direct start to the ledge then continued along traverse

s.rogers 23/Apr/15 2nd
P Rogers 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Sue
Robin Nichols 12/Mar/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/15 Lead
JohnBotham 10/Mar/15 2nd
the power 06/Mar/15 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
migs493 09/Nov/14 Solo O/S
benlatham07 01/Nov/14 Solo O/S
tomaca12 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
alexcollins123 05/Oct/14 Lead
RichardLeggett 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

long climb for a warm up!

MPSBunny 27/Aug/14 2nd
with Achatzs
Nigel Bond 09/Aug/14 Solo
si_pro_83 27/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Tubs
Hidden 23/Jul/14 Lead
Gary K Duke 05/Jul/14 2nd
with Nick Low
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
andyclimber 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Chelsey Robinson 03/Jun/14 2nd
joe hallam 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with will lord, chelsey robinson
Melanie Parkin 23/May/14 2nd O/S
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 23/May/14 Lead O/S
with NLMC
Teappleby 17/May/14 Solo
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
peterhubbard 27/Apr/14 Lead
with Alastair
charley 20/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/14 TR
Hidden 17/Apr/14 TR
Hidden 14/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Don't like e3s 13/Apr/14 2nd
with Terri
bantamdave 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Terri, Neil
MazElden ?/Apr/14 Lead
with Graeme
paul79 15/Mar/14 Lead
reece.robinson 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Gavdee1 08/Mar/14 2nd
david harvey ?/Mar/14 Lead dnf
with Ian
Retro Rowan 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Tim Harper 16/Feb/14 2nd
with NTU
Hidden 12/Jan/14 TR
Don't like e3s 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Terri
MikeDowsett ??/2014 Lead
with Dave Bankart, Kris Scheinkonig
DaveB61 ??/2014 2nd
DaveB61 10/Dec/13 2nd
Kendrick 10/Oct/13 2nd
with Si
simonscubadiver 10/Oct/13 Lead O/S

With Pete Kendrick as well. Glad of twin ropes. Fun climb.

jpksalmon 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Lots of belly wiggling!

with Paul
Paul1 25/Aug/13 2nd
with Jon
PieMan 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Hilarious mini-stomach traverse...until you have to work out how to stand up again...and then work out how to get round the arete on to the slab. Good fun.

with Jim
mitch 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Dave Hollins
spenser 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really nice route, although the tree in the way does make for a slightly awkward move.

Hidden 10/Jul/13 -
Benn A 08/Jul/13 Solo O/S
matt.stevenson ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
ht543 10/Jun/13 2nd
with Ross Morton, Krish
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead
rohai545 10/Jun/13 2nd
with Ross Morton, Helen
Chalky Cat 31/May/13 2nd O/S
with Dom
ajc 27/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mel
NickyC 27/Apr/13 2nd
with Alex Newman
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd
rohai545 19/Feb/13 Lead
with Jonny Holmes, Chris Cope
Jonny M 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Eagertom ?/Dec/12 2nd

Enjoyed letting Dan take his first lead of the day, and some novel moves on the way out of the back corner, bridging with back and feet.

Hidden 30/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 23/Nov/12 Solo
harold walmsley 18/Nov/12 Solo O/S
Steven Andrews 03/Nov/12 2nd

Great climb. Really nice and varied.

deacondeacon 09/Oct/12 Solo O/S
John Brayshaw 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Erica
erica 29/Sep/12 2nd
with John
RUDIN.J.D.H 25/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Lovely climb. Took a while to man up and do the crux move after the ledge. Found it Amusing that Tom also struggled on it after trash talking me from the ground.

with Tom Atherton
Charlotte Nelson 19/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Pstryk 09/Sep/12 Lead
peterbeaumont 05/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Kat4kgb 03/Sep/12 2nd
Nick F Smith 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
rohai545 10/Aug/12 Lead
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 09/Aug/12 2nd
with Krish
arandall 08/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Jake Young 06/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
LivinITlarge 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Chris Baggy
atom 21/Jul/12 Solo O/S
St0neMonkey 21/Jul/12 Solo
with atom
Wayne S 20/Jul/12 Lead
Roget 12/Jul/12 Solo O/S
with robin
bwestwood 02/Jun/12 Solo
Hidden 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/12 -
Hidden 16/Mar/12 Solo rpt
Andy Moles 12/Mar/12 Solo O/S
with -
PeteArcher 11/Mar/12 2nd
with Cathy
cathymiller 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
augustus trout 11/Mar/12 Lead
with Mark A
fraserbarrett 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Fraser hill-casey ?/Jan/12 -
Neil D 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Did the start from the VS that goes straight up.

Betha. 23/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Neil D
adam carless 01/Oct/11 Solo rpt

Finished up early on the traverse to avoid traffic

Hidden 09/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
adam carless 18/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/11 Solo
Mark Dennison 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dawn
Alex Munnery 15/Jun/11 2nd
with Jake Shreeve
ukx ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 17/May/11 Solo
papalazarou 01/May/11 Solo O/S

It helped to solo this given the large traverse. Nice diverting route.

samappears 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

hmm...major faffing, Half ropes would have worked well except the set up. I wasn't happy setting up where I topped out, so set up above the start. This meant my seconder having to traverse across the route as normal whilst moving her knot across to remain safe, then return along the traverse taking out gear, before topping out directly above the start. Long winded, and although a good route, I'd debate whether it was worth it! Possibly cheated by going slightly higher rather than stepping across a huge gap. Placed mainly cams.

with Gen Sayer
robal 09/Apr/11 -
Tamati ?/Apr/11 Solo
Steve Palmer 16/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Done in two pitches due to single rope, i lead to the ledge then G lead on.

gb83 16/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

P1 steve, P2 me. nice route

catblack 08/Feb/11 Solo

got scared as I climbed up the VS(porthole direct) before traversing, the corner crack felt pretty scary(and hard) without gear!

with Tom Lyons, Andy Barker
Amy Kilpin 12/Dec/10 2nd
CharlieC 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Tarryn
mattshort 07/Nov/10 2nd
with Chris K
Tarryn 07/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Becky C 07/Nov/10 2nd
with Gabbro, Notsi
ckms 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Short
mattwyles1 02/Oct/10 Solo
with Ellie, Joe
eel 19/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/10 2nd O/S
littlerubberninja 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
cj1970 28/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
MPSBunny 03/Jun/10 2nd
Adam Mark Harvey 23/May/10 Lead
bjlsmith 23/May/10 2nd
with Tino, Adam and ODL
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead
stefie c 05/May/10 Lead O/S
JohnFJP 05/May/10 2nd
Matt Fry 24/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/10 Lead β
Matthew Edwards 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 2nd
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Big Steve 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

somehow, I ended up on my stomach, grovelling under the roof

with Karen
igneouscarl 09/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Robert Jones
disturbed_one51 08/Oct/09 Solo
Jonathan Hall 08/Oct/09 Solo
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
marclloyd77 31/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
emlynroberts 10/Jul/09 Solo
with Toby Vye
cooper leek 08/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with water rat
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Solo O/S
whiting.jp 05/Apr/09 Lead
with jamesca
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
superturbo 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
EdShep 03/Jan/09 2nd O/S
with Pilch
Pilch 03/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden ??/2009 -
daveyji ??/2009 Lead
with Bridget O'Brien
robal ??/2009 -
DaveFidler ??/2009 Solo
RM199 ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 14/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Alfredo 29/Oct/08 Solo
Joez 28/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Skinner
John Eley ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 04/Jul/08 Lead
with Helen Odwell
climbingrev 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Had to set this up for three seconds - bit of a tricky one as such a long traverse. Pretty nice climb though. Is it possible without grovelling through the cave on your belly?

Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 04/May/08 Lead O/S
Ed Throp ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/08 2nd O/S
benman 24/Feb/08 Lead
with roger m
Powder Puff Girl 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Ben H
popebenedictus 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
edd rab 16/Feb/08 TR O/S
hollylaura ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Nov/07 Lead
john power 02/Nov/07 2nd
PondLife 02/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Horrendous rope drag. Finshed on the left hand side of the slab.

Hidden 23/Sep/07 2nd
Somerset swede basher 15/Sep/07 Solo O/S
with Sarah and Abi
kwickfit 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Brian
AJ007 03/Aug/07 Solo
Hidden 21/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 14/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Richard
mattparratt 09/Jun/07 Lead
cpoad 25/May/07 2nd O/S
with Clare F
Pythonist 17/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Twisty 15/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Multipitched on a single rope!

with Paul Dewey
Hidden 15/Mar/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/07 Solo
Graeme Hammond 14/Mar/07 Solo rpt
victim of mathematics 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Alan
tallsop 07/Feb/07 Lead
with andy
Hidden ??/2007 -
steve2006 ??/2007 Lead O/S
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden 27/Dec/06 Solo rpt
Browny 19/Sep/06 Lead O/S
anyes varenne 13/Aug/06 -
with suzanne
pog100 12/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Reaver2k 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S

First Severe! Wandered abit, don't think I got the right way in the end. Went up the bridging section on the first bit (harder I think? poor gear) Then crawled under the roof, and didnt move far enough right, still quite tricky. I claim the tick anyway.

CJE 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Simon Clarkson
tobydunford 11/May/06 Solo O/S
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Nicos 20/Dec/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Dave Mason ?/Aug/05 Solo
Graeme Hammond 31/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with Andy (stowmarket)
Hidden 05/Jun/05 TR O/S
masa-alpin 28/May/05 Lead O/S
with Adam W
mooseloose 28/May/05 Lead O/S
with Jaimie
AngelaC 01/May/05 Lead
LankyPaddy 01/Apr/05 Solo O/S
DerwentDiluted 25/Mar/05 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
cem 21/Nov/04 Lead rpt
with Natasha Geere, Graham Dolman
Brown 09/Oct/04 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/04 Solo O/S
Tom Stoddart ?/Apr/04 AltLd
with Tom Slade
Reds 06/Mar/04 Solo
Hidden ??/2004 -
Binder 30/Oct/03 TR
with JBM
Hidden 15/Sep/03 2nd
jonathan watt 26/Aug/03 Lead O/S
cem 10/Aug/03 2nd
with Richard T, Liam Mark, Dan Muldoon
Katie Weston ?/Aug/03 2nd
runestone 01/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/03 Solo
Hidden 09/Jun/03 -
SteveM 21/Apr/03 Solo
peteetheridge ??/2003 -
with Tom Weston
Hidden 15/Sep/02 Solo
Mark Stevenson 24/May/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/02 Lead
rocktigger ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Clare
sixties 19/Nov/00 Lead
with hrd
paul birch 07/Aug/00 -
simonharpham ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Neil Bowers
Ian Archer 24/Aug/98 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/98 Solo
Hidden 15/Jul/98 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/98 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1996 -
BruceW ??/1995 Solo O/S
jmr ?/Oct/94 Lead
with Shane Adams
daprince ??/1994 -
Rampikino 15/Jun/93 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Oct/92 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 14/Apr/91 Lead O/S
babymoac 27/Jan/91 Solo
fellgazelle ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Alan Haigh
Laramadness 28/Sep/90 Solo O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 02/Sep/90 Solo O/S
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
climbhigher0 25/Jun/88 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/87 Lead
Iain Thow 20/May/87 Solo
Hidden ??/1987 -
stewart murray ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 05/May/83 Solo
mark-abz 19/Nov/81 TR
Hidden 02/Nov/80 Solo
tapley 26/Jan/80 Lead
with Alison Tapley
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


Steve Lenartowicz ??/1980 -
andy tetsill ?/Sep/79 Lead
with Martin
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Solo
Hidden 09/Jul/78 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Jul/78 Solo
MikeDowsett ??/1978 Lead
RichardMc 17/Jul/77 Solo
RichardMc 17/Jul/77 Solo
RichardMc 21/May/77 Solo
Nigel Bond 20/Apr/76 Solo
RichardMc 11/Apr/76 Solo
uphillnow ??/1976 Solo
petemeads ??/1976 Solo
Andy Say ??/1969 Lead
mikej 31/Mar/68 Solo
mikej 30/Apr/66 Solo
with Rosemary Lewis, Malcolm Eldridge, Mike Byles
mikej 10/Oct/65 Solo
with Howard Furguson
mikej 14/Feb/65 Lead
with Paul Richardson
mikej 28/Nov/64 Solo

Moderate? You must be joking.

with David Short
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 21
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set