Rockfax Description
Climb the difficult right-trending crack to good pockets and a finish directly up the wall. © Rockfax

FA. David Penlington 1952

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Hidden 18/Feb Lead
Andy Moles 14/Jan Solo
alex45acp 26/Nov/16 TR
Hidden 13/Nov/16 Solo O/S
suddy 22/Oct/16 2nd
with Luke Wilding-Steele, Luke von Freeden, Amy Jewell
Stroppy 22/Oct/16 Solo O/S
with SUMC
lukevf 22/Oct/16 Lead
with suddy
thel33ter 22/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Enjoyed the moves near the top.

with Phil
Phil 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
andrew549 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Kinge 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Lydia, CUMS
fuzzysheep01 25/Sep/16 Solo O/S
philipegwyther 06/Sep/16 Solo O/S
Dale Comley 14/Aug/16 Solo O/S
James Oakes 10/Aug/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/16 Solo O/S
Paul Baxter 13/Mar/16 Lead

Fell on first attempt - dodgy looking nut high in the crack does work. Climbed clean on next go .

with Dave
Hidden 28/Feb/16 Lead G/U
Laurence Everitt 28/Feb/16 Solo O/S
Alex Botten ??/2016 -
Matt Shepherd 31/Dec/15 Solo
jimbonfire 11/Dec/15 -
with TT
cragsman9000 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Neil
bob_cbr 04/Oct/15 Lead
liebs 30/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
mr random 01/Aug/15 Lead
with Ethan Sosin, Mike Sosin
martinbettridge06 08/Jul/15 Lead
with Alan parker
Angus Taylor 26/Jun/15 Solo O/S

Strayed a bit into the gully, but moved out left to finish

Hidden 15/Jun/15 Solo O/S
TomYates 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
john_ni 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
dominic lee 06/Jun/15 Solo
chrisdjackson 17/May/15 Lead O/S
with John
mrginna 15/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Sam McCarthy 10/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
John Higgs 13/Dec/14 Solo O/S
Robin Nichols 10/Nov/14 Solo O/S
fatbuoybazza 01/Nov/14 Lead rpt
with TimG
andrew549 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/14 2nd
loco wilko ?/Oct/14 Solo
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mtempest 14/Jun/14 Lead
Steve Waters, Mynydd 14/Jun/14 2nd
alan.phobos 14/Jun/14 2nd
with Dave C
Daveyc86 14/Jun/14 Lead
with Al
Daveyc86 14/Jun/14 Lead
with Al
Hardcore Pat 08/Jun/14 Solo rpt
with Dr Julie
Hidden 26/May/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/May/14 2nd
Cake 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Matt
arthur_de_briton 21/May/14 Lead
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 Solo
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tommo1664 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
migs493 12/Apr/14 Solo rpt
akhutton88 12/Apr/14 2nd

Sustained with a bit of a reach at the start. Sketchy VS.

with Tom M
akhutton88 12/Apr/14 2nd

Sustained with a bit of a reach at the start. Sketchy VS.

with Tom M
Hidden 03/Apr/14 2nd
darrencabowabo 16/Mar/14 Lead
staceyjg 14/Mar/14 2nd O/S
doyle12 08/Mar/14 -
with Adam
cragtyke 08/Mar/14 2nd
with Ross
Deezel65 08/Mar/14 Lead
AndyRogers 14/Jan/14 TR O/S

Beautiful climb, steep lovely moves and every time you want something its there! Would be a brave lead tho not much gear!

with Nick
Jimbo C 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

The crack section is good, but then the line gets really squeezed in.

with Jon
jonhowson 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Jimbo
alexcollins123 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
fredallingham 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd
darrencabowabo 21/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
JimboWizbo 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this one

with Beth
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead
james.slater 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S

The wires dont sit very well!

simonsclimbing 26/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 30/Jun/13 Sent
hotfeet 08/Jun/13 Lead
with Kent
RCrockford 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Sheila
cpoad 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Steve G
johngriffin 01/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
NickyC 27/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Alex Newman
PeteWilson 07/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
kayakmonkey 18/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/13 2nd
chrisicles ?/Mar/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 18/Nov/12 Solo O/S
deacondeacon 13/Nov/12 Solo O/S
nick ferro 11/Nov/12 -
Hidden 11/Nov/12 2nd
paul horabin 03/Nov/12 Lead
john max 11/Sep/12 Lead
with Bob Brown
Alan James - UKC and UKH 09/Sep/12 Lead
Sam James-Louwerse 09/Sep/12 2nd
Lunar25 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Phil Marsh
dannyboy83 12/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Dan Vaj 27/Jul/12 Lead
with L Vajzovic
ianjdodd 23/Jul/12 TR O/S
najki_2000 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S

glad I wasnt leading; gear looked hard to place

with Chris Rose
Wayne S 20/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 17/Jun/12 TR O/S
john_ni 17/Jun/12 TR
with Phil Griffiths
PaulHermes 10/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Tibor
GermanAlex 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

tough stuff, the initial crack does not swallow as much gear as one would assume from the bottom. quite pumpy.

with Stu
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd
bwestwood 02/Jun/12 Solo
jon_gill1 19/May/12 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 19/May/12 Solo
ripper 19/May/12 Lead
Keendan 16/May/12 Solo O/S

Finished on the arete, probably easier

Hidden 08/May/12 TR
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead rpt
moberg 15/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Tried three times, each time getting a bit higher, then downclimbing, but didn't feel safe enough to progress to the first bit of protection.

stephenhartley 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Grace Aldridge
Greg Jones 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Hideous pro. Not fun.

Hidden 14/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Tombauer 14/Mar/12 Lead
mrginna 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/12 2nd dog
Coops_13 25/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
stev1e.wilso 07/Jan/12 TR O/S
with Jess, Simon, Dylan
simon1985 07/Jan/12 TR
bigbadbob12345 07/Jan/12 TR
PAJames ??/2012 -
minT(HUN) ??/2012 Lead
with PaulHermes
kingholmesy ??/2012 Solo O/S
john lynch 28/Nov/11 Solo
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Curly Rich 05/Nov/11 2nd O/S


with GMC JohnP
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/11 2nd dnf
phja 20/Sep/11 Lead dnf
with candy
Gazleah 17/Sep/11 Solo O/S
with serge
benny_m 04/Sep/11 TR O/S
mattgrange 27/Aug/11 Lead

Gear is not as easy as it looks, especially if laybacking the lower section

LardClimber 27/Aug/11 2nd
Pete Randall 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Richard B
Danny Crump 26/Jul/11 2nd
with Richard Apthorp
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Steve954 23/Jul/11 TR dog

No partner and climbing on shunt; needed a rest but enjoyed this route made more difficult due to being on the shunt.

joemallia 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
waynem1985 04/Jun/11 2nd
antdav 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Wayne
Hidden 11/May/11 2nd
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead dog
Tithe Technique 01/May/11 TR O/S
with Clare Jennings, Geoff Burrows, Charley Fell
charley 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Clare, Ange, Geoff, Kev
valentinesbabe 01/May/11 TR O/S

Charley's lead...nice climb with a tricky move or two. Kev seconded.

with Clare Jennings, Charley Fell, Geoff Burrows, Kevin Tithe
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
John Bish 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mike_hough_uk 16/Apr/11 2nd
Luke90 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
iamstebarker 22/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/11 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/11 Lead
lozowen 11/Feb/11 Solo
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Solo O/S
Aaron Hauptmann 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S

found trouble finding the gear on this one, quite steep and pumpy for a 4a, but then again I had just lead a 5c overhang.

with Sophie
phildavies84 31/Oct/10 2nd O/S
madguernseyboy 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S
martin one 30/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with lucy and brendon
Wildstyle 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S
tobydunford 10/Oct/10 Solo O/S
philboy 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with bisanth
mattwyles1 02/Oct/10 Solo
with Ellie, Joe
android 29/Aug/10 TR rpt
catty_9 29/Aug/10 TR


with LWCC
Richard Gilbert 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Last climb of weekend. Glad I was seconding as I was tired.

with Alex Lambert
Hidden 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 16/Aug/10 Solo
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Solo O/S
PaulGreenhead 18/Jul/10 Lead
with J D Fisher, Kirsty
Kirsty 18/Jul/10 2nd
Andy Hardy 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

I used side runners to the R (Shameful or SMJ?)

Kelly D 10/Jul/10 TR O/S
with Kiri
popebenedictus 06/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Edd Rab
edd rab 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with James Newby
Chris Ellis 06/Jul/10 2nd
with Helen Odwell
popebenedictus 01/Jul/10 Solo O/S
with Soloed
Nicholas Livesey 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Lucie Sedlarova
Birdo 19/Jun/10 Solo O/S
scottski 19/May/10 Lead O/S
with A.Cooley
fyfers 10/May/10 Lead O/S
jmjw 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Tim R, Will L
jmjw 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Tim R
timrowland 02/May/10 2nd
with jmjw
AsleepOnBelay 01/May/10 Lead O/S

Great moves but struggled with gear. I'm not sure if I was happy to find the worn out sideways cam placement or sad at how eroded it was. Bloody well used it though!

with Sarah Davis
Hidden 01/May/10 2nd
MarkCunnington 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marc Blackband
M_Bell 17/Apr/10 TR O/S
paulharmer 12/Apr/10 TR
with David Hale
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Solo O/S
daviesp2 09/Apr/10 2nd
Somerset swede basher 09/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Pilch 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S

nice route, shame about the gear

with Graham
migs493 04/Apr/10 Solo O/S
mic_b 27/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
howhard 27/Mar/10 2nd dog

Tricky with not much protection around the crux!

Hidden ??/2010 2nd O/S
joese7en ??/2010 -
clairejane 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S
dsjms 25/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Did 3/4 but arms and hands too tired after messing about with gear. Had to escape to alternative route on the left.

jonski21 25/Oct/09 2nd dnf
with dsjms
fatbuoybazza 10/Aug/09 2nd
with thom
Steve J P 09/Aug/09 2nd
with BW
Bernie Wylde 09/Aug/09 Lead
with sp
Hidden 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
rubygem 07/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Solo
JWB 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Hard and run out for a VS.

with Martin Harrell
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead dog
shed_hed 24/Jun/09 2nd
with Andy Winter
shed_hed 24/Jun/09 Lead dnf
with Andy Winter
Hidden 20/Jun/09 Lead
Batt 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Not great gear but good value climb.

Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
Alfredo 27/May/09 Solo
Hidden 23/May/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/May/09 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Jeronimo 18/Mar/09 Solo O/S
liamoloughlin 01/Mar/09 Solo
SGD 07/Feb/09 Lead O/S

I liked this, good little route

with Angelika Renner
naine 07/Feb/09 2nd

nice climb, friggin cold fingers!

with SGD
B-bop ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Juan, Francy
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Creep_pea 17/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Olly, Walsh
jl 14/Sep/08 TR O/S
with A School Group
Hidden 25/Aug/08 2nd O/S
whiting.jp 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Felt very hard, gear placements were very tough, both to figure out and to stand and place. Ended up using a few (cheeky?) runners in the right hand crack. Still felt *at least* VS.

with jamesca
mshorter ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden 05/Jul/08 Solo O/S
morrisdaboss 05/Jul/08 Lead β
with Ste 'O' C
The Reaper 26/May/08 Lead O/S
Grabtheslab 10/May/08 Lead
LankyPaddy 06/May/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/08 2nd O/S
phil stubbs 30/Mar/08 Lead
with Dave Short
john lynch 09/Mar/08 Lead
with rich armour, Bo Robertson
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Dunx 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Matt Schwarz 11/Nov/07 2nd
oliverthomp 02/Nov/07 Lead
sargy 02/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Olly Thomson
Hidden 02/Nov/07 2nd O/S
jonny5 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Alix Blockley
donkster ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Dane 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Shit gear on lower half

with Gary
howlingbaboon 14/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/07 TR
jchenoweth 09/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Fat Alan
Hidden 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
bigglesbutcha 09/Jun/07 2nd
Hidden 06/May/07 2nd
Hidden 06/May/07 Lead O/S
coffeepot 06/May/07 2nd
with Nick SHuttleworth and jelaby
Hidden 29/Apr/07 TR dog
chrisrogers ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Steve R
tom.ireson 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 07/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/07 TR
Adam Moroz ??/2007 Lead
steve2006 ??/2007 Lead O/S
adam carless 11/Nov/06 2nd O/S

Not great for gear, but the moves are ok (unless it's windy).

featuresforfeet 11/Nov/06 Lead
with Adam
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead
Hidden 14/Oct/06 2nd O/S
ebunick 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Lizzie + 3 freshers
rob wmc 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Alan
jamiev 08/Oct/06 Solo O/S
Rampikino 08/Oct/06 Lead
with MMC Various
AJ007 10/Jul/06 Solo
chris murnin 28/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden 14/Apr/06 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Feb/06 2nd
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Pythonist ??/2006 Solo O/S
Nicos 09/Nov/05 Solo O/S
with solo
DerwentDiluted 07/Sep/05 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Hopevalleypaul 02/Aug/05 2nd
with Gareth W
max_chan ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 10/Jul/05 2nd
robin heath 17/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Graham Scott, Dan Hodgson
PenJD 05/May/05 Lead O/S
AngelaC 03/May/05 Lead
Katex ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Simon Edwards
clive-greenwood 31/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with CMC
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Solo O/S
Whealiebob 25/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Hidden 17/Apr/04 Lead O/S
duncan 25/Oct/03 Solo
with Nick
Hidden 20/Sep/03 Solo RP
Stefan Kruger 06/Jul/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/03 Solo
Hidden 09/May/03 Solo O/S
crater 06/May/03 Lead O/S
with chris
Hidden 17/Aug/02 Lead
OffshoreAndy 17/Jul/02 2nd
with Steve Mount
paul birch 11/Jun/00 -
EllieWoods 08/Apr/00 2nd O/S
with Si
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Mar/00 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/99 Solo
cem 18/Jul/99 Lead rpt
with Gordon Carder
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/98 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1998 TR
RobSimmo 08/Aug/97 2nd O/S
with Steve Goodens, Jon Berry
kato'sdad 08/Aug/97 Lead
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 24/May/97 Solo
Martin Bennett 13/Apr/97 -
with MT
cem 18/Jan/97 Lead dnf

Backed off it: too wet & greasy

with Andrew Roberts
crater 24/Oct/96 Solo
craig h 15/Jul/96 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Jul/96 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Iain Thow 15/Apr/93 Solo
Hidden 15/Aug/92 Solo
Roget 09/Jul/91 Solo O/S
Laramadness 12/Sep/90 Lead O/S
tlr 05/May/90 2nd
with Fin
craig h 29/Apr/90 Solo O/S
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/89 Solo O/S
tapley 08/May/89 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Rob Davies ??/1989 Lead
with Mick Moss
goi.ashmore 24/Oct/87 Solo O/S
steve prior ?/Jun/87 Lead
with Chris S
babymoac 24/May/87 -
with MTW & Bob
Hidden 12/Jun/85 Solo
charlesmfrench 11/Jun/83 Solo O/S
mikej 18/Oct/81 Solo
with S
Hidden ?/Aug/80 Solo
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


RichardMc 25/Apr/76 Solo
RichardMc 11/Apr/76 Solo
mikej 03/Jan/76 Solo
uphillnow ??/1976 Solo
mikej 06/Jul/74 Solo
with E
mikej 25/Nov/73 Solo
with Janice Williams, E, Geoff Williams
Andy Say ??/1971 Solo
mikej 31/Aug/70 Solo
with E
mikej 17/Aug/69 Solo
with E
mikej 19/Aug/68 Solo
mikej 07/May/67 Lead
with Jim Godbold, Bob Howarth
mikej 30/Apr/66 Solo
with Rosemary Lewis, Malcolm Eldridge, Mike Byles
mikej 30/Apr/66 Solo
with Rosemary Lewis, Malcolm Eldridge, Mike Byles
mikej 26/Apr/66 Solo
with Ted Markham
mikej 27/Dec/65 Solo
with Ted Markham
mikej 10/Oct/65 Solo
with Howard Furguson
mikej 01/Sep/65 Solo
with Ted Markham
mikej 05/Jun/65 Lead
with Barry Regan, Ted Markham
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 53
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set