UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.
20m.

Rockfax Description
The long corner/groove just right of the arete. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Martgib 26 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fun route, get on it. Solo for 6-7m to the first gear, but easy. First peg has rusted and lost mass, but can be backed up nearby. Second peg (high) seems solid. I feel the climbing is not quite 6B, and well protected where it's hard, therefore maybe E4 6B (soft), or even, dare I say it, E3/E4 6A. This isn't a sport route, as the guide suggests.
Show beta
βeta: Fun route, get on it. Solo for 6-7m to the first gear, but easy. First peg has rusted and lost mass, but can be backed up nearby. Second peg (high) seems solid. I feel the climbing is not quite 6B, and well protected where it's hard, therefore maybe E4 6B (soft), or even, dare I say it, E3/E4 6A. This isn't a sport route, as the guide suggests.
ryan_keith_thomas 30 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: New guidebook confusingly has this as a sport route, other than a rusted old peg I see no fixed gear...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New guidebook confusingly has this as a sport route, other than a rusted old peg I see no fixed gear...

Logged Ascents

3 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Churston Quarries

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 1
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Olympica

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Lundy)

Loading Notifications...