Rockfax Description
The buttress is climbed via a mantelshelf, a thin crack and a tricky shelving exit. The gear is not really very reassuring.
Ernie Marshall 1963 © Rockfax

FA. Ernie Marshall 1963

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Paul Hy 26/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Phil O
mrphilipoldham 26/Oct/17 2nd O/S
jshields 26/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 26/Oct/16 2nd O/S
fuzzysheep01 25/Sep/16 Solo O/S
musicl3e 13/Aug/16 TR
with Tony Etherington, Sarah Brookes, John Brookes
Hidden 13/Aug/16 TR O/S
Circus 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Janice, Phillipa
James Oakes 10/Aug/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 26/May/16 Solo O/S
ChrisVickers 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Tom R-C
gaz3212 11/Dec/15 Solo O/S
Wizzy 28/Sep/15 Solo O/S
martinbettridge06 08/Jul/15 2nd
with Alan parker
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Solo O/S
ebf 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Gear isn't very reassuring, nor are the rounded holds nor the general sandy feel of it. Probably/maybe safe. Best not to fall.

Hidden 25/May/15 2nd
Robin Nichols 09/Feb/15 Solo O/S
John Higgs 13/Dec/14 Solo O/S
loco wilko ?/Oct/14 Solo
OllyT 27/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/14 Lead
Angus Taylor 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

did use the right arete a little, not sure if that's in or not.

Mark Duncan 04/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Found this really easy. Used a palm down, nice moves

robblowen 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
JoeWakefield 12/Jun/14 2nd
fatbuoybazza 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
James rogers86 ??/2014 Lead

Easy HVS's.

Dan Vaj 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Amanda Vajzovic
cpoad 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Steve G
Dave Mason 01/May/13 Lead O/S
with Fiona MacDonald
martin one 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Nick
ClareG 20/Apr/13 TR
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
the power 10/Nov/12 2nd
Hidden 10/Nov/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Oct/12 TR dog
deacondeacon 09/Oct/12 Lead O/S
jhsp 23/Sep/12 TR
Legs 23/Sep/12 TR O/S
mrginna 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
jack01 08/Sep/12 Lead β
with lan
Wayne S 20/Jul/12 Lead
shaun walby 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S

HVS4c is about right,steep iffy gear and a tricky move above gear with a sandy sloping exit....not a VS

with Nick Whelan
jshields 02/May/12 2nd

Previous solo.

TonyF 02/May/12 Lead
MikeDowsett 02/May/12 2nd
TDSvejstrup 02/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 15/Oct/11 Solo O/S
with LUUMC Freshers
tedburt 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Aaron Burdett
Gazleah 17/Sep/11 Solo O/S
with serge
Mark Salter 08/Sep/11 Lead O/S
jack adams 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
ggflett 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Adam Harvey
schristophersmith 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
althesin 19/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 13/Jun/11 Solo
the_one_jim 29/May/11 Sent O/S
mattgrange 29/May/11 Lead

Damp, gritty, crap gear

lozowen 24/May/11 Solo
Claire Molloy 15/May/11 TR

Bugger - thought I had done first HVS cleanly as in guide book as 5a HVS now I find out all that effort was for VS!

with Noelle
Hidden 15/May/11 TR
Bradbury 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mary Winter
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
charley 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Ange, Steve, Kev
valentinesbabe 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Charley's lead after Kev backed off and I didn't like the look of it on lead either. Still not sure what the hell I pulled up on even now!!!

Tithe Technique 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
chumleywarner 19/Mar/11 TR O/S
Joe Costello 02/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with Ellie, Matt
mattwyles1 02/Oct/10 Solo
with Ellie, Joe
Marq 02/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Braine
LivinITlarge 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Joe
edd rab 24/Jun/10 Solo rpt
peteJ23 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Michelle Piper 19/Jun/10 2nd dog
aldred 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
pboniface 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Birdo 19/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd dog
jmjw 09/May/10 Lead RP
with Bob B
Pilch 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S

a weird route, gear is difficult to place and not great, then a precarious and committing move which felt more like 5b

with Graham
mic_b 27/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Jonathan Hall 22/Sep/09 Solo
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd
cooper leek 19/Sep/09 2nd RP
with donk
donkster 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Used arete on the right at the top. Bit blinkered but nice route.

with ben, DaveNW
Goose4 20/Jun/09 Solo O/S
with John Buckle
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/May/09 2nd
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
paul76 18/Apr/09 2nd
boulderholder 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
PanzerHanzler 12/Apr/09 Lead dnf
with David Rafe
Budge 08/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates, Martin Gillie
practicalcat 21/Mar/09 2nd
adam carless 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt

Not sure the grade here is right - definitely a couple of technical grades and a subjective grade harder than Nelson's Nemesis. The gear is the break is fine (takes a little fiddling).

Benrj 18/Mar/09 Solo
with jay mowat
Jeronimo 18/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
tommo1664 29/Dec/08 -
adam carless 10/May/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/08 2nd
jimbobimbo ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Mel
john lynch 09/Mar/08 Lead
with rich armour, Bo Robertson
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
atom ?/Jan/08 Lead
Jethro ?/Jan/08 Lead
naughtybadboy 04/Nov/07 Lead
gibbo38 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with gibbo21
gibbo21 04/Nov/07 2nd
with paul
edd rab 03/Nov/07 Solo O/S
popebenedictus 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Edd Rab
Pythonist 13/Aug/07 Solo O/S
Peakology 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with cat
Chalky Cat 31/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Dom
howlingbaboon 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Ruthy
Col Allott 15/Apr/07 Lead

hated it!

with Alex Sturrock
Hidden 15/Apr/07 Lead
chiverstom 01/Nov/06 Solo O/S
with Dave Turner
mje1398 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with John M + Dom
Maciek ?/Sep/06 Lead RP
with Andy C.
AJ007 10/Jul/06 Solo
Julia Chatterton 17/Jun/06 Lead

Second trad lead, first VS!

with Adam and Will
DerwentDiluted 27/Apr/06 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Hidden 25/Apr/06 Lead O/S
tatz45 ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Mina Wujastyk
John Lisle ??/2006 -
liamnkaz 01/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Richard L ?/Sep/05 2nd
with Liam
victim of mathematics 09/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with Jaime
PenJD 05/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/05 Lead β
Hidden 17/Apr/05 2nd
sam coward ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Tim
jl 15/Dec/04 Lead O/S
with Cara
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/04 Solo O/S
with SUMC
Pelleas ?/Oct/04 TR
mooseloose 04/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Geoff
OffshoreAndy 28/Aug/04 2nd
with Steve Mount
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
APAPAP 19/Aug/03 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 26/May/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/02 Lead O/S
rocktigger ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Ben
Rampikino 28/Apr/98 TR
tlr 05/May/96 Solo
with Pete D
Strong Steve 20/May/95 Solo O/S
BigHairyIan 03/May/93 2nd O/S
with Stuart Murray
Roget 01/Feb/92 Solo rpt
Roget ?/May/89 2nd O/S
with jim
tapley 01/Oct/88 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Iain Thow 11/Oct/87 Lead
with Simon Lee
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


Mark Kemball 26/Nov/78 Solo
RichardMc 09/Jun/77 Solo
mikej 17/Apr/71 Solo
with E
mikej 19/Aug/68 Solo

At the end of a soloing marathon I was joined on Kismet buttress by Ernie who pointed me up this route of his. It was to be described in the forthcoming Chatsworth Area gritstone guide.

with Ernie Marshall
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 29
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set