Rockfax Description
18m. The lovely open wall and breaks. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX El Chorro: Top 50, El Chorro dreams - sub 6a.

EBailey 29/Dec/17 Lead O/S
TBromley 15/Dec/17 Lead O/S
PTH 12/Dec/17 Lead O/S

Super route. Technical and full of interest. But 5+/6a.

with Reuben
mes32 21/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Agree with others - more like 5c!

with Georgina
Georgina Brooke 20/Nov/17 2nd
with mes32
100bc 17/Nov/17 Lead
with Gregor
kieranbowen 11/Nov/17 Lead β
with francois, Alice, Ruth
Hidden 10/Nov/17 Lead rpt
GrahamBEC 01/Oct/17 Lead O/S
AnnevO 25/Sep/17 Lead

Very hard! First route of the holiday and was expecting a nice doable route but it was so hard! Starts left from the bush and shares anchor. Scary traverse between last bolt and loweroff. Wouldn't recommend it!

MaureenB 25/Sep/17 Lead dnf
Tree-normas 11/May/17 Lead O/S
with Lisa
col3 26/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Utter shit. Really weird climb, bold and sketchy moves for the grade, apparently far too hard to get to the lower off as my friend preferred to do the much longer 5+ to finish it, ended up as an epic as that was harder than 5+! Avoid like the plague!

with Solveig, Matt Heritage
Dave Turnbull 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S

I agree with most others. Quality route, probably 5c, needs its own lower off.

with Jane Turnbull
Hidden 02/Apr/17 TR dog
robbjackson 25/Mar/17 Lead β
with Harry
HRadecki 25/Mar/17 Lead

If this is what I think it was, at least 6a ???

HP9 23/Mar/17 Lead

sketchy ....

with Sheamus
5eamuz 23/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with John Holterman, Peter Hughes
Danny Crump 21/Mar/17 Lead
with Clients
tjekel 06/Feb/17 -
s1362083 03/Feb/17 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jan/17 Lead
SJPowderham1 19/Dec/16 Lead O/S
Marianne N 11/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with C dawg
mollymcleod 11/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Completely caught out by difficulty; scary, moves out of reach, sketchy traverse left to lower off. At least other routes seemed easier all week...

with Robin Talbot
c jepps 11/Dec/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Dec/16 Lead
derekb 05/Dec/16 Lead
with Tommo
leowoods 05/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with Gareth
Hotcake ?/Dec/16 Lead

6a? difficult traverse to top out!

Hidden 30/Nov/16 Lead
Hidden 24/Nov/16 Lead dnf
Alex Thomson 14/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Jon Thorne ?/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Beth
Wallman 01/Sep/16 Lead dnf

I agree with all sentiments below. Ridiculously under-graded. I wonder if anyone from rockfax climbed this before they put it in as a top 50 4+ with a poorly placed lower off in the wrong place on the topo. I lowered off a mallion to avoid the sketchy traverse to the chains. Nevertheless, great climb.

with Rob L
acornegg 01/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Much harder than expected. Had trouble finding the lower off - sacrificed a screwgate on the top bolt of the route to the right to get back down.

robahalliday 28/Apr/16 AltLd
with Kate Bellew
Hidden 28/Apr/16 AltLd
albt 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
babymoac 30/Mar/16 Lead
with Rachel, adam
Hidden 30/Mar/16 TR
diamond rib 30/Mar/16 2nd
with babymoac, Adam Wheeler
Hidden 28/Mar/16 2nd
Steffan Gwynn 22/Mar/16 TR
ladempsey 22/Mar/16 TR
Hidden 22/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 28/Feb/16 TR dog
buxtoncoffeelover 28/Feb/16 Lead
with Vicar
Danny Crump 31/Jan/16 Lead
with Clients
Chris Manasseh 24/Jan/16 Lead
with John Armstrong
teamvix 04/Jan/16 Lead β


with Olive Branch Family
KittyKat 29/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Nice climb although harder than a 4

with Tom Ellliott, Kerry Kite
alitchka 28/Dec/15 TR
HP9 13/Dec/15 Lead
with Mark Hayes
jennysknight 02/Dec/15 Lead
with Thomas R
gpcomps 27/Nov/15 Lead O/S

A seemingly tough route or were we just getting used to the rock

with Mike Preece, miketong
Happy Wanderer 16/Nov/15 2nd dog

Led to 4th bolt - utterly desperate route, especially for the short. Mike then led and even on 2nd had to aid the move to the 5th bolt as couldn't reach essential hold. Top bolt desperate to reach. This route is NOT 4!

with Mike D
MD 16/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with Jo
s1362083 07/Nov/15 Lead
Darren Vincent 31/Oct/15 Lead
with Lucy
potnoodle13 21/May/15 Lead O/S
with Marie
beagle-ears 21/May/15 2nd
Jamie Brown 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Dave D
pulseroom 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Alan Sanderson
Hidden 15/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Simon Caldwell 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S

The ridiculous undergrading is still there in the latest edition of the local guide. I couldn't do the crux, so detoured onto the adjacent 6a instead for a couple of bolts. At least the scary traverse back left prepared me slightly for the truly terrifying traverse at the top to reach the lower-off! Might be a good route but I was too far out of my comfort zone to tell. 6a surely?

with Carmen
bobstones 13/Apr/15 Lead

The top is ridiculous, you just cant get to the chains. Bailed from the route on the right.

samkat 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Very hard climb. Undergraded.

with Bex
clarendon 02/Apr/15 Lead
with Tris
topsyturvy 02/Apr/15 2nd
with Mike P
mariannekhoo 24/Feb/15 Lead O/S

The anchor is rather unfairly positioned. Not a route for a new climber.

rd20 24/Feb/15 Lead O/S
philhaigh 03/Jan/15 Lead O/S
bridget143 29/Dec/14 TR β
with Simen
Conor1 06/Dec/14 Lead β

5+ at least, lower off gone, retreated from mallion

Matt Smith 18/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Insanely undergraded, 5+ in local guide but must be harder. The traverse to the lower off is sketchy.

Hidden 18/Nov/14 2nd dnf
wyzfen 17/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/14 -
D Tempest 28/Sep/14 Lead
with Paul
rfdl100 17/May/14 Lead
with Nicole
Little I 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Mum, Dad
Little B 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Isaac, Jane
ASchwirtz 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead dnf
lithos 01/Apr/14 Lead

1st route of holiday and not 4+ !

Puma 01/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/14 Lead
Rich Malcolm 03/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Jason Evans ??/2014 Lead
with Rob, Mark Evans
buddha1369 27/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Dec/13 Lead dog
soundboy 16/Dec/13 TR
with willu47
Climbster 27/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Vick
jayyaj 23/Nov/13 Lead dnf

Hard crux even for a 5+. Lowered from a maillon that someone had left a couple of bolts before the top.

Hidden 17/Nov/13 Lead dnf
SGD 05/Oct/13 Lead

felt stiff for 4+ even if I had twisted my knee the day before. getting to the shared lower off with del osillo was interesting and its nowhere near where the topo show it??

Dan818 25/Jul/13 Lead dog
beakerburgess 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
JonnyW 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 28/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Excellent! Some very good delicate technical moves

with Vienna
CrispsSmiths 18/Mar/13 2nd
with cem
cem 18/Mar/13 Lead β

Not onsight as Chris did it first

The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 13/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
riff156 15/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
lecko ?/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Dave Pen ??/2013 Lead

Classic! The best 4+ in El Chorrow

mol 24/Dec/12 Lead
with Ken, Jesse
Hidden 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Dec/12 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Nov/12 Lead
Vincej 10/Nov/12 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 10/Nov/12 Lead
escostar 31/Oct/12 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Oct/12 2nd β
ChrisH.19 21/Oct/12 TR
with Allan
Tala A 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Massive sandbag!! More like 6a, route not where rockfax depicts in the guide, lower off situated lower than expected. Necessitates very difficult traverse! Be warned...

matthomas79 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Tala M
runwildjohn 13/Oct/12 Lead

This is not a 4+, more like a 5+. Went off route at the top (on a sport climb!), expecting the lower off to be at the obvious platform above the last bolt. Had to downclimb and do the delicate traverse left to the chain - a real sting in the tail!

with Naomi Fraser, Mike Silver
stonemikey 13/Oct/12 Lead

As many have stated this is more like 5+ and the latest RockFax update acknowledges this. However, even taking this into account, the ridiculous position of the lower off should prevent this from being a top 50 route - worth 2 stars maximum.

Sannan75 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
cactus111 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
samfayers 09/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with sars
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead
johnmctighe 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Very tricky - had to pull on a quickdraw at one stage. Horrible step up to lower off too.

with Austin
Hidden 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Rich Clague 02/Jan/12 -
pete johnson ?/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Lun
RachelEm 27/Dec/11 2nd
Kevster 27/Dec/11 Lead O/S
callans 18/Dec/11 Lead β
with El Chorro Matt
Tesni 14/Dec/11 TR O/S
mwatson ?/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 26/Nov/11 Lead
Steve Webster 26/Nov/11 Lead
lottiec 21/Nov/11 -
with Mikey P
Hidden 21/Nov/11 Lead O/S
paul horabin 27/Oct/11 Lead O/S
fi15 27/Oct/11 TR
MrRiley 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf

no way 4+, the crux is around 6a+ and it looks like some crucial holds have snapped off....

with Will Owen
john_ni 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

1st route of the hol & we pick a top 50 4+ that turns out to be undergraded & with a lower-off 2m to the left of where you finish that needs a 6a traverse & move to clip. Also dashed lines are missplaced on RockFax guide - starts left of the bush where 13 is shown. The 6a branch off is much better quality.

with Ian Wilkinson
hellboundblr 16/Oct/11 Lead
david0811 16/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Will, Dave Riley
Hidden 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Frostie 11/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Lewis, Cam
waynem1985 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
igneouscarl 27/Apr/11 Lead
with Robert Jones
pete1185 25/Apr/11 Lead
llamaglama 18/Apr/11 2nd
with Jam
Hidden 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Andy Clarke 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Crux section deserves 5+.

with Dale
Rich A-Wilkes 27/Mar/11 Lead
with Monika
mark4344 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

v.polished, great climb, but hard for grade. should be 5+. not a top 50 though

with Dale Knox
Dale ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

5+ in rockfax update bou write

with Andy
monika paprzycka 26/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Feb/11 Lead
RM199 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Different Steve 23/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 07/Dec/10 Lead O/S
sarahlizzy 28/Nov/10 Lead dnf

This is not in any way a 4+. I dogged my way to the last bolt before the lower off then backed out, not wanting an awkward fall on a slab. I have no idea why the guidebook lists this as a 4+ - it's dangerously misleading. I don't think it's even a 5+. Those giving it 6a are probably closer to the mark. Beginners avoid!

with Syv
goi.ashmore 11/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Stuart Wildman 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Seema
Seema 07/Nov/10 2nd
philgeorge999 25/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Couldn't do the final move. It was within my ability but too tired. Also the route is not as it appears in the guide!

with ihsan
RalphC 05/Oct/10 Lead
with Caroline
Hidden 30/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 19/Mar/10 Lead

A sandbag! Has a 6a move

with Guy Hustinx
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Dizz 04/Mar/10 Lead dog

Very much not a good warm up climb!

with Ed
Dave Foster ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S

In the soaking rain. Glad I had a few grades in hand!

with Alex
Nature_Boy12689 22/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Top 50 my left toe!!

auld al ??/2010 Lead
james chesmer ??/2010 Lead O/S
CathS 29/Dec/09 Lead dnf

Ridiculously graded. Was more like 6a than 4+

lucasp 29/Dec/09 Lead dog

Much harder than 4+

with Dave C (Lmc)
Hidden 17/Dec/09 Lead dnf
katiep 15/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Seemed much harder than the grade

with Jit
Ed Westwood 14/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Dec/09 2nd dnf
Hidden 14/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Dec/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Luke Gilbert ?/Nov/09 Lead
with Sara Gilbert, Tom McCulloch
timcedwards ?/Nov/09 2nd
with Andrew Edwards
Simon Rackley ?/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with stan hodson
joe king 27/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 01/May/09 2nd dnf
alexrafferty1986 29/Apr/09 2nd O/S

easily 5+. bad bolting and lower off. but good climbing

with Zoomer
Zoomer 29/Apr/09 Lead

Very, very undergraded, long moves between breaks. Really poorly thought out lower off position and incorrectly marked in the new guidebook. Avoid.

Graham Iles 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Pete Robinson, Neil Cooper
Hidden 26/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Giles1 11/Mar/09 Lead O/S
woodenwealth ?/Mar/09 2nd
with Simon
Hidden ?/Feb/09 Lead
Ken Applegate 18/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall 11/Jan/09 Lead β
with Dave Coley
wheelo 27/Dec/08 Lead

Joke grade - at least a 5+

with cas
Hidden 27/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Dec/08 Lead O/S
timjones 27/Oct/08 Lead
Hidden 08/Dec/01 Lead
5 users have this on their wishlist
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set