Rockfax Description
A direct version of Jasper. Climb direct to join Jasper and follow it through its crux section. Then break out right across the wall. Finish direct. Bold and seldom led. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A discrepancy exists over the true line and may well have been documented incorrectly according to the FA. Climb to the break right of Jasper, pull straight onto the wall above with Jasper still just round to the left. Technically no harder than 6a, but bold - and thus the crux - getting to the break.
FA. R.Fawcett 1980.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pete O'Donovan | 30 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ron's original line starts a few feet left of the first moves of Oliver. From there it goes up and left (crux with no gear at a dangerous height) to the break. It doesn't join Jasper here, but climbs the right-hand arête of Jasper's groove, then continues in the same line to the top. No harder than 6a, but probably E6 for the high, unprotected crux. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Ron's original line starts a few feet left of the first moves of Oliver. From there it goes up and left (crux with no gear at a dangerous height) to the break. It doesn't join Jasper here, but climbs the right-hand arête of Jasper's groove, then continues in the same line to the top. No harder than 6a, but probably E6 for the high, unprotected crux. |
||||
| Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 15 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The line within the BMC Guide is way off and the RF one is a bit misleading, particularly in its upper half, so here\'s our take on it: Climb the groove to the right of Jasper directly to the break, where the two routes join. Do the crux moves of Jasper, then head out right using the crack and arete/rib, until easier ground is reached. All quite alarming and bold, although gear can be found, but would unlikely to be if you were on the onsight (it is far from obvious). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The line within the BMC Guide is way off and the RF one is a bit misleading, particularly in its upper half, so here's our take on it: Climb the groove to the right of Jasper directly to the break, where the two routes join. Do the crux moves of Jasper, then head out right using the crack and arete/rib, until easier ground is reached. All quite alarming and bold, although gear can be found, but would unlikely to be if you were on the onsight (it is far from obvious). |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
One Step Beyond
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)