Rockfax Description
Beef a way up the steep crack at the left end of the wall, it gives a smart bit of jamming which manages to be slippery and sharp at the same time. © Rockfax

FA. D.Mellor, D.Johnson 1959

mattlyons 14/Sep/17 Lead β

On joshs gear up to half height

with Josh Willson
Toby 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Nate
samkat 24/Jul/17 -

Led but with gear already in

stephenmckenzie 24/Jul/17 2nd dog

Tried to lead but couldn't manage. Very polished.

gritstone7 12/Jun/17 Lead dog

Third time I've led this but this time I slipped off midway up the crack, hung for a bit then finished it.

with HB
BoulderyDave 31/May/17 TR RP
Hidden 06/May/17 2nd
planetmarshall 06/May/17 Lead G/U

VS, surely.

with Clive Betteridge
Helen Gibson 25/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Graham Hoey
smudge 21/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Solid jams, lovely route, used to find it hard cause I was weak. Stoney VS.

with Wes Southall
mikeyjbs 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Idoia
James Thacker ??/2017 -
MikeyP 24/Nov/16 TR
Drue 16/Oct/16 Lead O/S
lanky 02/Oct/16 2nd
with Drue
Andrew Sloan 21/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Downgraded to VS in the new guidebook....what a joke....more like E1.

with John Brannock
Brannock 21/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Cake 26/Jul/16 2nd rpt
Brannock 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Classic hvs

Duncan Campbell 16/Jul/16 2nd

We made the most if a bad day - Chee tor soaking, then stoney. I was just sorting the initial gear for Pickpocket when it started properly raining. Annoying because I was just psyching up to go for it having found another bit of gear.

Alex Handley 10/Jul/16 Lead dnf

couldn't get into the jam and then it hailed down

merlin138 10/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
OliverRoss 04/Jun/16 Lead rpt
AlistairBerridge 04/Jun/16 2nd dog
with Dan Boast, Oliver Ross
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/May/16 TR
MikeyP 25/May/16 Lead
James 1 17/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Sam McCarthy 19/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Bit wet, bit of a battle

James Lowe 19/Apr/16 2nd rpt
jon_gill1 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with nick loc
Hidden 10/Apr/16 2nd
Tim Rodgers 27/Mar/16 Lead
Radical-G 22/Mar/16 2nd β
Rob Davies 14/Mar/16 AltLd

I backed off after my feet shot off large ledge at 20' - crack looked dry but was slimy inside. Phil fought his way up eventually. I gave up on idea of trying Medusa as it's no doubt worse.

with Neil Hyde, Phil Ashton
DomClose ??/2016 2nd
Hidden 11/Nov/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Scott Anderson 08/Sep/15 2nd O/S

The darkness made it quite good fun

with Gav
mrs milf 27/Aug/15 2nd

I`m going to rename this climb

with John Cook
PeteWilson 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S

found this quite awkward and tiring!

with josh
James Lowe 09/Aug/15 2nd

Expected to get quite pumped but instead found it pretty enjoyable

with Fran
franhammond92 09/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Had a go a while bag. Got it fine this time. Pretty pumpy.

eduardo 08/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Ian W
Rob Jarratt 02/Aug/15 Lead

Getting a bit polished, but it yields to a positive approach and still has the big solid jams. Used my hex 10 for the first time in years. Good solid VS, not HVS.

with Bill McKee
Hidden 21/Jul/15 2nd O/S
OliverRoss 21/Jul/15 2nd
Angus Taylor 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Calum harvey
charvey 17/Jul/15 2nd β

clean second

elfin girl 03/Jul/15 2nd dnf
with John Cook
Tom_Shill 27/Jun/15 Lead
tebs 23/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 19/Jun/15 2nd O/S
TobyA 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Tom R
pete1993 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Calum W
Calum Wadsworth 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Obviously used to be a class route, but now its stupidly polished

with Pete B
HannahGo 28/May/15 TR dog
bigdrew 21/May/15 Lead rpt
simon kimber 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Jez Portman
dom94 29/Apr/15 Lead β
with shaun
shaunhumphreys 29/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead
Canyak ??/2015 -
Tony Holdsworth 25/Oct/14 2nd rpt

Also did one of the new routes across the road.

with Stuart Bolton, Peter Harris
georgenvk 11/Oct/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Oct/14 2nd rpt
AidanMorris 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
MrBIond 10/Aug/14 Lead O/S
eduardo 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice smooth but snug jams, seemed pretty straightforward.

with Misha
OliverRoss 29/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Wil Treasure
Wil Treasure 29/Jul/14 2nd
rich_hw 24/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Will_PCC
masa-alpin 17/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Rob lead.

with Charline H, Rob G
robgixer 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Deezel65 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S

With Kyle

vanderz 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
climbercrab 18/Jun/14 -
Hidden 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 16/Jun/14 2nd rpt

ridiculous polish

Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
jamesclimbing 19/May/14 2nd dog
jamesclimbing 19/May/14 TR dog
drolex 30/Apr/14 2nd
jamesclimbing 24/Apr/14 2nd dog
Merlin 20/Apr/14 2nd dog

Horrendous! Very polished, slipped all over the shop! Escaped from the crack near the top to the left!

with Jim Jarvis, Dave Tait
Matt Cooke 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cooke
Sam Parker 05/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Dad
tim newton 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
James Oakes 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 21/Mar/14 Lead O/S


with Andy
Andy Peak 1 21/Mar/14 Lead

In the Rain very slipey

PaulFidler 13/Mar/14 2nd dog
with John Cook
pulseroom 13/Mar/14 Lead
Derek Furze 07/Mar/14 -
Hidden 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S
spenser 23/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Got up to the crux before deciding to down climb as I wasn't confident in my jamming ability, probably not the best choice for a first HVS lead.

Hidden ??/2014 -
amccann 27/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Matthew Ferrier 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Sam, Mike, Alex McCann
Palindrome 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
tatz45 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Will Harris
Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead
mapperley samurai 19/Jul/13 TR
with Ben Moss
danny_85 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S

First climb with head torch.

with Hannes
ashtond6 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

great route!!! much better than it looks

alp79 30/Jun/13 2nd
davewsargent 26/Jun/13 2nd
with andy neath
Neil McA 16/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with debbie birch
dohart 14/Jun/13 TR dog

this is becoming my new nemesis.

with zippy
jwpil 27/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jake
Jake Young 27/May/13 2nd O/S
with Jack
john lynch 26/May/13 2nd O/S
with Ed Austin
mapperley samurai 20/Apr/13 TR
with Clare Woolfrey, Ben Moss, John Cook
Tony Holdsworth 13/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth
Paul McCallum 06/Apr/13 2nd
with alex blaza
climbercrab ??/2013 2nd dog

very tiring and grunty trying to stay in the crack for the last 12 feet

mapperley samurai 24/Nov/12 TR dog

One careless slip.

with Ben Moss, John Cook
masa-alpin 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Harder than it looks. Good jamming route!

with Mitch
Hidden 13/Oct/12 -
Haydn Jones 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with pep
treg 08/Sep/12 2nd


with Lynsey
cem 02/Sep/12 2nd
petellis 01/Sep/12 Lead dnf
with Sloth
Olli-C 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Brutal but commitment definitely helps. Worth much more than 1 star, the polish is almost a good thing in this case.

Rachel Slater 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S
garethb 12/Aug/12 2nd
with cheque
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead RP
Wayne S 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/12 2nd rpt
MikeDowsett 18/Jul/12 2nd
with Andy Neath
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mwatson 18/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Jim Slater 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
deacondeacon 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Done again. Absolutely soaked, horrible.

with Duncan
Milne 29/May/12 Lead dnf

followed dave with a rest after failing miserably.

Hidden 29/May/12 Lead
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead dog
Peakpdr 16/May/12 -
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead rpt
chrism225 09/May/12 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 09/May/12 Lead
with Chris
johncook 01/Apr/12 TR

Always a fun route.

lithos 29/Mar/12 2nd


with tony holdsworth, pete harris
Tony Holdsworth 29/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Rob Stone, Peter Harris
Hidden ??/2012 -
climbercrab ??/2012 2nd RP
PAJames ??/2012 -
shouter 14/Aug/11 Lead
Mr. K 07/Aug/11 2nd O/S
James Oswald 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Really good. Felt MUCH easier this time after falling a long way on it a year ago. Better at jamming, placing gear and going for it. Good to see the improvement.

Cake 20/Jul/11 TR O/S

Surely worth a couple of stars even if it is limestone

with Matt
garethb 10/Jul/11 Lead
with cheque
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd RP
Tony Holdsworth 24/May/11 Lead rpt

Strenuous but perfect jams

with Adam Hughes, Ian Holtby
Chris Craggs 10/May/11 2nd

Solid jamming but 'uphill'!

with Graham Parkes
William_Rennie 01/May/11 Lead dog

Very pumpy, took trend left from crack and rejoined after big flake jug 3/4 up.

with Suz
Anthony Dixon 05/Mar/11 TR
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Hidden 15/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd
James Oswald 11/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Got very pumped climbing this. Got through the crux. Felt too pumped to place any more gear. So carried on. Got more pumped. I then fell. I came within a metre of the floor. My top cam held. Was incredibly pumped and adrenaline filled for a good 40 minutes. Hex hit Mark's head. Must come back having improved my jamming! So glad the hex held!

gingerwolf 11/Sep/10 TR O/S
Matt Fry 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
bigdrew 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S


max_chan 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Steve Carty
spragglerocks 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Quentin Fisher
Ropeboy 06/Jul/10 Lead
with Bunny
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead
DavidR 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Ta Graeme, but much harder (for me) to stay in the crack! Really need to learn to trust jams...

with Graeme
Graeme Hammond 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S

tom led this 1st and lowered off. I led after and tom re-climbed on 2nd again to practice his jamming after an impressive looking lead avoid the crack in the upper section first go

mark20 30/May/10 Lead rpt
Dale ?/May/10 Lead dog

my first jamming practice for yosmite and first ever trad lead on a jamming crack. Really struggled rested on gear sevral times, but got up it then practiced it a couple more times after was getting up it okish then

with johny
Hidden 04/Apr/10 2nd
Justin T 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Felt pumpy at the grade but then I can't jam.

with Cherry
metal arms 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Bennykr 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Benji
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Si dH 27/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Chris Foster, Neil Furniss
Hidden 08/Sep/09 Lead
bridget143 22/Aug/09 Lead dnf
with Duncan Frisch
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 20/Aug/09 2nd O/S
porridgefan 12/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Lead it in the dark after Joe Shaw retreated...

with Joe Ward
porridgefan 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S

slippery jamming crack, in darkness, no headtorch, puuurfect

with Joe Ward
catblack 11/Aug/09 2nd

Got my foot stuck/jammed in the crack and had to take my foot out of my shoe to free myself!

Andrew Barker 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S

A tough lead.

Hidden 11/Aug/09 Lead
IAmAStone 10/Jul/09 2nd
with Charlie Jefferson
Adam Potter 02/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
mark20 24/May/09 2nd dog

Rest to take out gear - honest !

smudge 22/May/09 Lead rpt

Ok, so I've done it three times. It now feels more like VS, think I was just weak before. Then again I know the moves, so the grade for on-sight maybe just about HVS. Did it in the rain, stays reasonably dry if the wind is in the right direction.

with Chris Dodd
Tony Holdsworth 29/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Dave Law
leepip 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with al mason
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Paul ablitt 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 28/Jun/08 2nd O/S
smudge 12/Jun/08 Lead rpt

Found it tough, so repeated it thinking I was just being a weed. It is still tough.

with Will G
TomHaigh 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Fraser
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Brown 21/Apr/08 Solo RP
Andrew Sloan 03/Feb/08 2nd rpt
Martin Haworth 03/Feb/08 Lead β

easy if you can jam

with Andy
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Fat Tim ??/2008 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 28/Dec/07 Lead O/S

trying to make the most of a wet day, polished limestone is soo slippery, gripping.

with andy g
pezzerrr 01/Dec/07 2nd O/S
chris j 06/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Doug
chris j 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Doug
Pilch 19/Aug/07 2nd O/S

gets harder and steeper, but excellent jamming

with Simon
Hidden 29/Jun/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
climber130887 26/May/07 Lead dog

a humbling climb. not technically difficult just very powerful.dont think i have ever been this pumped on a climb

with claire
Phil1967 11/May/07 2nd
with Dan
smudge 11/May/07 Lead
with Phil
Andrew Sloan 28/Jan/07 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/06 2nd O/S
Si dH 08/Oct/06 2nd O/S

This looked easy from below but turned out to be harder work than I'd expected - some awkward jamming and I think it is very slightly overhanging - theres no let up on your arms until the top.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Nicos 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/06 Lead
Hidden ?/May/06 2nd
JulesV ??/2006 -
Dave Bond 19/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Dave Mason 02/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/02 -
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
FrankW 15/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with James R
Roget 22/Jan/00 Solo rpt
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Dave
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
JonBray ??/1997 Lead O/S
tlr 18/Nov/96 Lead
with Andy M
Roget 18/Dec/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Chris Ellis 09/Aug/95 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
colin milton 18/Jul/95 Lead
with eric milton
RossG ??/1995 -
RossG123 ??/1995 -
roncaves 20/Mar/93 Lead
with Shaun Quegan
Carl Smethurst 06/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Ian Pickles
Hidden 13/Apr/91 Solo rpt
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S

possibly lead at somepoint

Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/88 Lead
Neil McA 14/Mar/87 Solo
Hidden ??/1987 -
Neil R 12/Apr/86 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/85 2nd
Rob Davies ?/Apr/85 2nd


with Mick Moss
Chris Wright 14/Mar/85 Lead
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1985 -
Lone Rider ??/1984 -
Nigel Bond 13/Nov/83 Lead
with Nick
andy gittins ??/1983 -
malc 12/Sep/82 2nd
charlesmfrench 21/Feb/82 Lead O/S
Hammy 20/Jun/81 Lead
with Rob Lawson
tapley 12/May/81 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 11/Apr/81 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1981 -
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
jcw ?/Jan/80 -
with Martin Harris
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Solo
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Neil McA 24/Nov/79 Lead O/S

My first route on Limestone. Hard work and slippy! Mick fell off seconding and i had to lower him off from my waist belay in a tee shirt and got deep rope burns on my arm that weeped puss and needed medical treatment the next day! Oh to be young!

Hidden 15/Jun/79 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Mar/79 Lead
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Lead
with Mike Quantrell
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
duncan ?/Nov/78 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1978 -
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/77 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/77 2nd
Nigel Bond 07/Jul/77 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
Bolt Phobia 06/Mar/76 Lead
with Martyn Hurn
Mark Kemball 18/Jan/76 Lead
with Mark Pearce
Tom V ??/1976 -
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1975 -
with Glynne Andrew
Hidden 07/Apr/73 TR
Andy Say ??/1973 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 09/Oct/71 AltLd
greenbuoy 10/Jul/71 Lead
Hidden ??/1971 Lead dnf
uphillnow ??/1970 Lead

done variously from 1967 inc 5.7.1979

mikej 01/Nov/69 Lead
with E
bob@daysmill ??/1969 Lead β
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 59
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set