Rockfax Description
The right-hand crack is high in the grade. The disappointingly thin lower section gives a few very technical moves, before the respite of the wider crack above, which is solid HVS jamming.
Original, E1 5b - Gain the top section from the crack of Medusa. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The right-hand crack is disappointingly thin in its lower section. This gives a few very technical moves before the respite of the wider crack above. Original - HVS 5a. The original line started up Medusa and moved right above the hard section.

FA. M.Stokes, D.Humphries 6.3.76. FA. (Original) G.Birtles, C.Jackson 9.64. 06/Mar/1976

Lenny 24/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Pumped and burnt out, placing the gear was almost as hard as the climbing. Got up to the blind pocket and taking a small fall, which ripped one of the 'bomber' wires. Really nice and varied climbing and worth a couple of stars.

with Hidden
Hidden 27/Apr/16 2nd
deacondeacon 27/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Just scraped up this. Between sleet and snow showers, but it was nice and dry. Probably one of the worst routes at Stoney to try and warm up on lol

Hidden 14/Jun/15 TR O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/15 2nd
bigdrew 10/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Fell off last year. Felt ok today.

with Andy
Hidden 20/Apr/15 Lead G/U
Matt Cooke 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Brannock 05/Aug/14 2nd
Misha 30/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Hard! Not a warm up!!! Got a flash pump after getting gear into the thin crack, the first pocket was as far as I got and it was rubbish, the main issue though was that I couldn't get my left foot established on anything decent (lots of polished smears). Fell off three times then gave up as it was an evening session so time was precious. One to come back to.

with Ed, Phil
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead G/U
eel 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Andy J
Hannes B 30/Jul/13 Lead

1 fall

with Phil
Hidden 04/Sep/12 Lead β
JulesV 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead
JBO 16/Oct/11 Lead dog

Had two falls on the same move, on the second my cam ripped so I gave it one more go... managed to get up it clean after but I found the crack a good jamming lesson, and I think my inexperience showed quite a lot...

Hidden 18/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead dog
TonyF ??/2010 -
dan gibson 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with jon redshaw
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Pritchard
tuftynick ?/May/09 Lead dog
with miles gibson
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Brown 22/May/08 Lead dog
with Henry
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden 21/Apr/89 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/89 Lead O/S
keefe 19/Oct/86 -
Chris Wright 12/Jun/85 Lead
sadams 04/Apr/85 Lead
Nigel Bond 31/Jul/83 2nd
with Charlie Leverton
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Hidden ?/May/81 AltLd
Mark Kemball 11/Oct/80 Lead
with Bill McKee
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 9
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set