UKC

12m. A nice route with reasonably sound lower cracks spoilt in its upper half by suspect rock. The raged crack system at the right side of the main left wall, to a large rock scar and R facing corner running up the right side of the monster perched flake. Avoid the corner which contains fractured, weathered and suspect rock by finishing up the right edge of the flake on its left side (feels runout). The best and most sustained version of the route is to start between the two lower cracks and use both to gain the slot with the jammed wire while the easiest start is by bridging out into the corner 1m R. Well protected providing you are careful to avoid placements behind suspect blocks. The rock scar marks where a large part of the upper part of the route fell down 30+ years ago and the scar still contains poor rock and suspect blocks.

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Route of Interest
Wailing Wall

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Hetchell)

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