130m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The steep icicle of The Devil's Appendix gives a fantastic strenuous pitch followed by an equally exciting top pitch of great character, passing some amazing ice formations..
1) 6, 30m. Climb the icefall to beneath the roof and hanging icicle (pegs on the left). Launch on the the hanging icicle praying that it doesn't collapse. Climb the steep wall above to the ledge and a loose-ish blocky belay stance. The icicle can sometimes be avoided on the right if it hasn't formed enough to be climbed. .
2) 5, 60m. Climb the ice, first rightwards to a ledge, then back left into a corner (possible cramped belay). Traverse right to the far-right of the icefall and finish direct. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
You can't miss it. The finest ice route in Wales, possibly in the UK?

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Calum Muskett's Top Ten Welsh Winter.

Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden 05/Apr/13 -
Hidden 05/Apr/13 2nd O/S
adie84 05/Apr/13 -
A Crook 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Superb day out with Simon Frost. Started early to avoid the impending thaw. The pillar had failed to touch down properly and instead it was a large ice umbrella. The whole route was in fact covered in them some being huge (biggest over 12ft). Quite spectacular and making the route some what harder than a straight up step VI. In fact it felt more like mixed VII (or French 6) than UK ice VI. Simon lead the crux moves with deft skill; which involved climbing up and behind (the initial umbrella)on thin ice then reaching up and round the umbrella to then delicately bridging on to it. Then ever so gently tap tap tap until on to more solid ground.(I ended up footless at this point due to using a stein pull for too many moves under it) The next 2 pitches were a Labyrinth of slabs/walls/umbrellas/groves that were sneaked up, around, under and over. Absolutely sublime climbing, continually varied requiring many mixed tricks (although on ice) to negotiate. Absolutely Brilliant and happy to repeat only next time when its a straight up and down chop up. ;)

frost 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Adam
masa-alpin 25/Jan/13 Lead O/S

At last! Ice melting fast, the route will disappear the next day. The quality of ice could have been better. In P2, I went slightly off-route to the groove in the left-hand side before traversing precariously on rotten ice back to the route (before the crux of P2). The ice being so thin in P2, there was only one reasonable gear (TriCam) in this 50 metre pitch after the initial 10 metres - very scary! Considering this is the first ice-climb of the season, my performance was satisfactory to me.

with Rob G
philhilo 23/Jan/13 AltLd

Finally. First ice of year.Took big whipper off the pillar - mebee time to get some monos, horizontal bi points not good on v steep v technical, very delicate, much peddaling! Handed over to Misha who cruised it. Led p2 + 3 together - 60m and still hard. Awesome.

with misha
Misha 23/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing, a dream come true! Description to follow.

with Phil
robgixer ?/Jan/13 2nd
centurion05 ?/Dec/11 -

Clipper cruised the pillar. First team on it that season. Think it saw about 6 parties on it after us.

with Stu Harth
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Dec/10 Lead
Glyn 26/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Amazing route, an experience I wont forget. I lead the 2nd pitch. Very steep 1st pitch

with Steve Long, Calum Muskett
morganator 26/Dec/10 AltLd
Martin Cooper 26/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
sam820 26/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with Matt Sutton
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd
stevebarratt 12/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Great climb. Pitches 2 + 3 link with 60m rope.

with Rob Bryniarski
Hidden 12/Jan/10 -
Brown 09/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with John
Adam Booth 09/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Best winter route I've ever done! Been dreaming of getting this tick for 5 years, so yesterday was a dream cone true!

Ed Booth 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Top route! Adam led the pillar. I led top two.

AB1965 07/Jan/10 AltLd

With Baggy Richards, one v steep move followed by several steep moves for the first pitch on plastic ice. Second pitch brittle, the traverse right was thin. Thanks to Baggy for the telephone call. Cheshire cat impressions at the top.

phil64 ?/Jan/10 Lead

awesome, bit thin but worth the wait!!!

with owen samuels
Daniel Wicks 12/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3

with Taylor
Hidden 12/Feb/09 AltLd
GuyM ??/2006 2nd
with si
geoff b 06/Mar/05 AltLd

A briiliant day out. We leap frogged 2 parties who weren't sure it was in condition (it was perfect), had 2 photographers (Pierino Algieri & Adrian Trendall) in attendance, perfect alpine weather & perfect ice. Made up for falling off a week earlier!

with Derek Blizzard
Derek Ryden 06/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
geoff b 26/Feb/05 Lead dnf

Fell off the crux icefall as the ice fell apart on me: it wasn't in condition & I went quite a ways held by the peg & two opposing wires under the roof. Wow! Luckily it reformed later in the week or I'd never have been forgiven. I went back a week later.

with Matt Tuck
csalvage ??/2005 2nd O/S

Top pitch only

with Brian Molyneux
Hidden 29/Feb/04 2nd dnf
Ally Smith ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S

First pitch only

Hidden 03/Jan/01 Lead O/S
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High VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 10
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set