Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.
Rockfax Description
Use the first clip of Learn the Lingo, but keep right and climb the rib passing the small overlap with sustained interest. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 2002.
Ticklists
Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak sport for mortals
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Christheclimber | 14 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent, well worth 6b+, technical and fairly sustained climbing. One of the best at this grade in the Peak! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent, well worth 6b+, technical and fairly sustained climbing. One of the best at this grade in the Peak! |
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| Fiend | 24 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Doesn't look much different to the usual quarried cobblers, but a really nice route. Sustained in interest but not pumpy, and always good holds where you need them, once you hunt around. Felt about the same as Shanacie, mild F6b+ | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Doesn't look much different to the usual quarried cobblers, but a really nice route. Sustained in interest but not pumpy, and always good holds where you need them, once you hunt around. Felt about the same as Shanacie, mild F6b+ |
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| Paul Evans | 16 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Didn't feel any harder than Shanacie. Very pleasant route tho'. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Didn't feel any harder than Shanacie. Very pleasant route tho'. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry
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Megalithic Man
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Horseshoe Quarry)