Rockfax Description
IV, 900m, 8 - 10 hours. Reliably in condition and relatively easy to retreat from, this route is a good choice for those moving into the territory of long, cold TD routes. The climbing is never difficult but the route is long and atmospheric. Climb the Couturier Couloir to above the steep section, the route description begins from here.
Approach - From the top of the Grands Montets lift, descend gently southwards, passing under the routes of the Grands Montets Ridge until underneath the Aiguille Verte serac. Whatever you do, don't stop here for a drink (!) just keep moving and begin walking directly up to the routes. It is also possible, and popular, to ski into these routes and then return to your skis before skiing down to Argentière via the Glacier des Rognons and the Grands Montets pistes.
1) Follow sustained 55 - 60 degree ice, drifting left and heading directly for the crux gully.
2) Climb the gully in three pitches, passing sections up to 85 degrees. There are no bolts but you can build rock belays on the buttress to the left.
3) Once above the gully, follow the snow gully diagonally up and rightwards for 100m until you reach the foot of a final icy ramp. From the top of the three pitches in the gully, it is possible to carry on up directly instead of following the gully out rightwards. This direct finish involves slightly trickier climbing than the pitches below it, and possibly some mixed sections in thin conditions.
4) Climb this for 100m (the last 60m kick up to 65 degrees) to reach a col just below the Grande Rocheuse.
Descent - Abseil on Abalakov threads or continue to the summit of the Aiguille Verte, where it is possible to abseil/downclimb the Couturier Couloir or to descend the Whymper Couloir down onto the Tal√®fre Glacier. Doing this involves passing over the Grande Rocheuse via some straightforward mixed ground and then making a short abseil to reach the Verte's summit ridge. This is an enjoyable (if exposed) walk in good conditions but can be a double-corniced nightmare so get a conditions report before heading out! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the Couturier, then climb the first rectilinear gully to the left of the Bourges-Mizrahi, 4 pitches of 70/80 degree ice (sometimes thin). From the top of the gullies, go up the snow slope on the right to exit at the saddle on the E ridge of the Grande Rocheuse. - Taken from "Snow, Ice and Mixed".

Route is not as sustained as this description may indicate. Short sections at 80 degrees, but for the most part is about scottish III. Protection was not readily available on my ascent in the lower gullies. Early start essential so as to have reached the difficulties by sunrise. A recommended route!

Autheman, Dellavolpe, Vimal 05/Feb/1992

Ally Baba 13/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Did the grandes Rochuese, then onto the Verte which was brilliant.

with Damo
stuart34 10/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, soloed up to the stat of the gullies. Rappeled the Buttembourg and the Coutrier

with Amos Swanson
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