12m.

Rockfax Description
The line trends right in its upper section along a vague overlap. Finish straight up to the lower-off. Polished. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An alternate (cop-out) finish moves right along the overlap from the final glue-in bolt towards the chains on stone the loach, past an occasionally loose hanger bolt, but it does miss out the final hard moves.

FA. Gary Gibson, Mark Elwell 1987

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+

Feedback

UserDateNotes
JamieSparkes 2 Sep Show βeta
βeta: The lower off for this and beef it is well hidden in a corner below the big tree, perhaps 1.5m up and left from the stone the loach belay. From the last bolt, head straight up to the break and mantel onto the ledge to finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The lower off for this and beef it is well hidden in a corner below the big tree, perhaps 1.5m up and left from the stone the loach belay. From the last bolt, head straight up to the break and mantel onto the ledge to finish.
Sam Ring 4 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A grade harder than Mind of a Turbot... a nasty eliminate start (avoiding stepping into Hungry Eyes) and footholds polished to high sheen to help on the mulple step-thrus and foot swaps all conspire to make a really cool route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A grade harder than Mind of a Turbot... a nasty eliminate start (avoiding stepping into Hungry Eyes) and footholds polished to high sheen to help on the mulple step-thrus and foot swaps all conspire to make a really cool route.
craig d 1 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did this on Thursday night for the 1st time since 1989. It felt harder than Sturgeon which I did last week. I would suggest 7B+
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this on Thursday night for the 1st time since 1989. It felt harder than Sturgeon which I did last week. I would suggest 7B+
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
john lynch 30 Aug Lead RP 2nd rp. nice and sustained climbing.
with Will, Lewis Andrew
2nd rp. nice and sustained climbing.
with Will, Lewis Andrew
JayAyBee 26 Aug Lead O/S Great climbing, very happy with the way I read this. The lack of lower off was confusing - assuming it now goes to the Hungry Eyes anchor, but I traversed to the Stone the Loach bolts instead (7b this way). Tried going direct after which felt about 7b+, also very good.
Great climbing, very happy with the way I read this. The lack of lower off was confusing - assuming it now goes to the Hungry Eyes anchor, but I traversed to the Stone the Loach bolts instead (7b this way). Tried going direct after which felt about 7b+, also very good.
Hidden 14 Jul Lead dnf
Mike W 10 Jul Lead RP
James Oakes 16 Apr Lead β
with Luke Bounds
with Luke Bounds
Nigel White ?? -
Ramon Marin 8 Oct, 2018 Lead
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Tom Briggs 5 Jul, 2018 Lead β First time sport climbing since July 2016. It was fun : )
with Nic Sellers
First time sport climbing since July 2016. It was fun : )
with Nic Sellers
Harry Chaplin 16 Jul, 2017 Lead RP 4 attempts including some time spent figuring out/being given the beta. Tough.
4 attempts including some time spent figuring out/being given the beta. Tough.
Wil Treasure 20 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
with cheque
with cheque
Dan Jenkin 28 May, 2017 Lead RP
with Ben, Dan Parkes
with Ben, Dan Parkes
Haydn Jones 17 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
debsb ??, 2017 -
ShirleyM 9 Oct, 2016 Lead RP Very relieved to get this done after a very long siege as about to have an ACL repair and at least 6 months out.
with Ben
Very relieved to get this done after a very long siege as about to have an ACL repair and at least 6 months out.
with Ben
samt 21 Sep, 2016 Lead RP Put clips in then first rp of the evening. Really not sure this is 7b+. Climbs really nicely though and the polish on the footholds doesn't really affect it much.
Put clips in then first rp of the evening. Really not sure this is 7b+. Climbs really nicely though and the polish on the footholds doesn't really affect it much.
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sam Townsend
with Sam Townsend
samt 17 Sep, 2016 Lead dog Cruising on first RP when foot popped. Too tired for another attempt. Next Time!
with Tom Bridgeland
Cruising on first RP when foot popped. Too tired for another attempt. Next Time!
with Tom Bridgeland
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
Matthew Ferrier 4 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Kept on traversing right into Stone the Loach, I couldn't see any bolts or a lower off direct?
Kept on traversing right into Stone the Loach, I couldn't see any bolts or a lower off direct?
psborland 26 Jun, 2016 Lead dog Feels V tough. 1-3 found, got a sequence.
Feels V tough. 1-3 found, got a sequence.
Simon Davis 25 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
with Tim P
with Tim P
Hidden 12 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 7 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
thebigfriendlymoose 24 May, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go... pumpy.
with Sankey
2nd go... pumpy.
with Sankey
nathanlee 17 May, 2016 Lead β Retroflash. Tried once maybe 5 years ago, remembered nothing. felt good
with Dave Mayes
Retroflash. Tried once maybe 5 years ago, remembered nothing. felt good
with Dave Mayes
Hidden 10 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt
ben.meakin 25 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
brices 6 Jun, 2015 Lead β great route
with Tom B, Wendy, Llinos C
great route
with Tom B, Wendy, Llinos C
Luke Dawson 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
dominic lee 29 Apr, 2015 Lead
with simon nadin
with simon nadin
mark20 25 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
Jim pratt ??, 2015 Lead RP
stp ??, 2015 -
Neil Amos ??, 2015 -
kristian 1 Nov, 2014 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 28 Jun, 2014 Lead β
with Tom Mills
with Tom Mills
dominic lee 19 May, 2014 Lead rpt
with andy elliot
with andy elliot
eel 19 Mar, 2014 2nd
with bigdrew
with bigdrew
bigdrew 19 Mar, 2014 Lead RP
with eel
with eel
Hidden 17 Mar, 2014 Lead RP
J.Wells 10 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
with Ima Nahumury
with Ima Nahumury
lojant 18 May, 2013 TR dog Rope solo
Rope solo
lojant 18 May, 2013 TR dog Rope solo
Rope solo
climbingsheep 17 Apr, 2013 Lead RP
with Jonny Reay, Mike Watson
with Jonny Reay, Mike Watson
highrepute 3 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
Hannes B 27 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
with Aidan
with Aidan
Joe Costello 23 Jul, 2012 Lead RP Hard, especially if you go direct at the top. 2nd best climb on the wall. Generous belay from Sir Jacobs and Madame Pygall.
with Ellie, James
Hard, especially if you go direct at the top. 2nd best climb on the wall. Generous belay from Sir Jacobs and Madame Pygall.
with Ellie, James
Somerset swede basher 22 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
with Adam
with Adam
Jonny Slarke 30 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
JBO 19 May, 2012 Lead dog Definitely 7b+, the initial crimpy section is hard enough, and the traverse along the overlap is pretty pumpy and strenuous. Good route though, for the Embankment
Definitely 7b+, the initial crimpy section is hard enough, and the traverse along the overlap is pretty pumpy and strenuous. Good route though, for the Embankment
mic_b 13 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
with Phil
with Phil
steepstuff ?Mar, 2012 Lead rpt 2nd go, felt hard..
with Rob
2nd go, felt hard..
with Rob
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 Lead β
debsb 16 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
with loundsy
with loundsy
Hidden 16 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 14 May, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 7 May, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 1 May, 2011 Lead
Hidden 1 May, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 14 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
Fraser13 ??, 2011 Lead β
UKB Shark 8 Aug, 2010 Lead dog Tried to onsight but failed then failed to redpoint with a foot slip on a polished hold. Was sunny. Feel a bit happier now to see that its been upgraded to 7b+ !!
with Nic Kidd, Ben & Tom
Tried to onsight but failed then failed to redpoint with a foot slip on a polished hold. Was sunny. Feel a bit happier now to see that its been upgraded to 7b+ !!
with Nic Kidd, Ben & Tom
dominic lee 19 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
with daniel lee
Hidden 28 May, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 20 May, 2010 Lead dog
Ian Broome 20 May, 2010 Lead dog 1 rest.
1 rest.
Hidden 17 May, 2010 Lead RP
bigie bob 2 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
EllaRus ??, 2010 Lead RP
with j_duds
with j_duds
goi.ashmore 30 Oct, 2009 Lead RP Very good route. Helps if it is a reasonably cool day to offset the polish, although it isn't that polished by Embankment standards.
with James Rees
Very good route. Helps if it is a reasonably cool day to offset the polish, although it isn't that polished by Embankment standards.
with James Rees
jondude 27 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 24 Jun, 2009 Lead RP
with Tom
with Tom
Hidden 16 Jun, 2009 Lead RP
Dave Bond 18 Apr, 2009 Lead RP
with SiW
with SiW
Hidden 8 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
Ram MkiV 19 May, 2008 Lead RP put in a decent onsight effort considering relative tiredness but powered out quite high up and bottled a clip/grabbed the draw. steady 1st rp. Really good quality moves.
with Al
put in a decent onsight effort considering relative tiredness but powered out quite high up and bottled a clip/grabbed the draw. steady 1st rp. Really good quality moves.
with Al
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Mick B ??, 2008 Lead RP
with Al Austin
with Al Austin
skygodley 27 Aug, 2007 Lead RP Polished or what!
Polished or what!
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead
mark s ??, 2005 -
robyn1 ??, 2005 -
nige 22 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
with nick colton
with nick colton
Hidden ?May, 2004 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2003 -
climber34neil ??, 2002 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2001 Lead RP
WB 16 May, 1999 Lead RP
Roget 3 Aug, 1997 Lead RP
with jon
with jon
Roget 1 Sep, 1996 Lead dog
with jon
with jon
Billg 23 Apr, 1995 Lead RP
with Dave Cross
with Dave Cross
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
Neil McA 19 May, 1992 2nd
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
craig d ??, 1992 -
Hidden 13 Jul, 1991 Lead
keefe 13 Jul, 1991 -
Hidden 5 Aug, 1990 Lead dog
UKB Shark 9 May, 1990 Lead
Hidden 28 Apr, 1990 Lead dog
ajtay ??, 1990 -
with Various
with Various
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead RP
Mike Owen 9 Sep, 1989 Lead O/S
with Graham Parkes, Elaine Owen
with Graham Parkes, Elaine Owen
Hidden 25 May, 1989 Lead
13 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set