Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
A technical pitch up the blank wall to the big groove which has adequate protection. Start from Suryanamasker for the original route. It is likely to need a brush before an ascent.
Brock the Start, f7B - The direct start making it into an E6. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A short pitch up the blank wall past a lone bolt to the big scooped-groove. The original start was from the left but the bouldery direct start is more famous and gives a better route. Brock the Start, 6c - a mini-classic of the 80s. **Bolt & thread replaced 2009**
FA. Jerry Moffatt 1982.
Trad climbs for sport climbers , On Peak Rock
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Lorry Park Quarry)