UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

Rockfax Description
Climb up into the short groove which is hard to enter and leave. A fiddly finish. A high first bolt above the break. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fish-u-like is the bolted version of the route Little Girl Eater from 1976 with a direct start added. LGE is not acknowledged in the 2015 BMC guide although it does appear in the first ascent list that wasn't included in the book.

FA. Dave Knighton 1976. Direct start and bolts, Gary Gibson 1999.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 28 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Awkward moves into the groove and then a fiddly finish like all the others on this wall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awkward moves into the groove and then a fiddly finish like all the others on this wall.

Logged Ascents

47 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 4 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Apollo Creed

Grade: 6b ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)

Loading Notifications...