UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

10m. The wall just right of 'Pissed in the woods' and below the hanging Yew may be short but it is quite taxing with no particularly easy moves, the first gear just after the crux at 5m and a back breaking boulder below; a classic micro route in the making! Bottom of the grade. Start in the centre of the wall.
Make reachy, thin bouldery moves to gain the first good holds. Use these and some small crimps to move up and rightwards with no little difficulty to gain better holds and gear just below the overhanging Yew tree. Move left to gain a good jug in the centre of the wall, then go straight up past an in-situ thread to gain jugs and the top (no cheating using the tree!). Top out carefully.

Mark Davies / Brian Mullan 21/Feb/2009.

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Firefly

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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