Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
A short and intense wall climb. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Short and fingery climb with the difficulty in between the first & second bolt. Shares the belay with Tip Dollar to the right.
The route was cleaned on 2nd July 2023. There’s a loss of hold which makes the route significantly harder now.
FA. Gary Gibson 1999.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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kristian | 25 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Big burley move off a sharp undercut. Difficult to grade >7a? | ||
Show beta
βeta: Big burley move off a sharp undercut. Difficult to grade >7a? |
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gavjwp | 3 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Short and fingery climb with the difficulty in between the first & second bolt. Shares the belay with Tip Dollar to the right. After cleaning this route it looks like there’s a loss of hold. There’s a sequence of 2 moves I couldn’t figure out. I think the route is significantly harder than 7a now. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Short and fingery climb with the difficulty in between the first & second bolt. Shares the belay with Tip Dollar to the right. After cleaning this route it looks like there’s a loss of hold. There’s a sequence of 2 moves I couldn’t figure out. I think the route is significantly harder than 7a now. |
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Grade: 6c+ ***
(Lorry Park Quarry)