UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

25m.

Rockfax Description
A long, wandering pitch with a hard start. Start just right of Chicken Run and make difficult moves up the initial wall to a short pillar. Easier climbing follows. Move right and make long moves up a clean wall to the lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 2002.

Feedback

User Date Notes
LBrown 12 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Microwave sized block fell of this today. I think there will be further loose rock as a consequence.
βeta?
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βeta: Microwave sized block fell of this today. I think there will be further loose rock as a consequence.
Seb Grieve 28 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Easier to climb slightly to the left of the 1st bolt. Beware of loose block high up.
βeta?
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βeta: Easier to climb slightly to the left of the 1st bolt. Beware of loose block high up.
andyman666999 11 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose with several largeish blocks wanting to be knocked off.
βeta?
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βeta: Loose with several largeish blocks wanting to be knocked off.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Megalithic Man

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Horseshoe Quarry)

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