28m. This mixed climb possesses four ageing and unreliable 8mm bolts which are best used in conjunction with other gear (take a number of small/med. cams and wires). Starting from the old bolt and chain belay, the contrived(?) original line starts up an astonishingly smooth patch of slab; the first of the old bolts shows the way (no backup gear). A more accessible and very worthwhile E3 6a/b? variation starts as for Song of the Sirens but breaks right over the top left part of the smooth slab using high cracks. From the peg on The Odyssey, continue with interest up the stepped slab above, passing the three remaining bolts by a series of monster moves between ledges. The grim top-out is best managed by pre-cleaning on abseil, then by draping the abseil rope out left of the climb and intercepting it at the top of the rock.
(The variation was tidied up and led by the moderator Nov. 2017).

N White, P Gardner 25/Aug/1987


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