52m, 2 pitches. A speculative inspection in 2021 discovered a very good climb indeed, sadly underrated in past guidebooks and warranting much more interest. P1: The diminutive knifeblade which formerly protected the crux has been replaced with a pair of more sturdy low corrosion pegs and a bit of cheating tat currently resides on one. Despite those measures, it is still likely to be found solid/high E3. The crux sequence is sensational, not to be missed. The delicate move off the big flake above is another highlight. P2: Hard moves off the belay frustrate, but easier climbing is above. Beyond a protruding peg (replaced 2021) on Safari, tough moves directly up the smooth slab can be protected by crafty small wires. Unnecessary pegs at the top have been removed; continue direct then move left at an in-situ rope thread to finish. To belay, scramble up to find good cracks on the traverse line to the Black Ice belay.

FA. C. Wills Sep/1990.

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