UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start at a crack in the wall under the huge protruding overhang.
1) 4a, 16m. Climb the crack and wall to the edge of the overhang. Follow the corner to the right and then work left to a large ledge and belay at the faultline
2) 4c, 20m. Head left to a groove and climb up until a move right reaches a peg under a steep corner. Finish up the corner. © Rockfax

FA. P.Neame, M.R.Forrest, A.B.Monnery 20/Nov/1966.

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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 2
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tensor II

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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