UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

8m. Towards the right end of The Crimean Wall, just left of the wall taken by Fire at Will, is a right-to-left rising groove. Make a steep and bouldery start, place small wires, and pull up to easier angled but more suspect rock. There are good pocket holds on the wall just to the right which make things easier after the crux start but it's debatable whether these should be off limits or not. It would seem sensible to place a friend in one of them, although this of course makes the pocket unavailable for the second. Decisions, decisions.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Musketeers (Direct Finish)

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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